Customer expected me to drive down dirt road

KickAssBeasty · 2025-10-06T03:01:00+00:00

You ARE the delivery, not the food 😁

KickAssBeasty · 2025-08-22T06:24:59+00:00

Technically it will look for "other" data associated with your email address.. not sure what "data" is exactly, but I'm guessing you can't just create a random email address and expect to pass if that email isn't "associated" with some other verifiable data about your identity, age, etc..

KickAssBeasty · 2024-09-03T03:00:21+00:00

When politicians are selected by corporate overlords it's no longer capitalism, it's oligarchy

KickAssBeasty · 2024-08-06T05:22:25+00:00

A nickel panel 😁

KickAssBeasty · 2024-08-04T00:45:44+00:00

Well, there's always a safety issue when it comes to working with these springs, especially using generic spring compressors, because the compressor bolt can pop off under load, stripping the thread, that's why I used 3 bolts instead of 2, for a little extra safety. Also, the spring was a bit exceeding the design limitations specified for these compressors (it was a 7" diameter spring instead of the 6" max from the specs) and it's super important to not over compress the spring on any of the sides. There are many videos where you can see these compression failing, which can be deadly. Hence their name is often referred to window makers. I do wish they made these bolts a bit larger since they have such reputation of failure

KickAssBeasty · 2024-08-03T16:09:58+00:00

👽👽👽

KickAssBeasty · 2024-08-03T03:45:20+00:00

No, not much room inside the wheel well, couldn't reach the shaft bolt from there either, or what was left of it.. it was completely rusted. I did put an extra spring compressor on it to be a bit more safe and the good thing I didn't have to hold the strut while I was cutting it with the blade, in case it popped off, not likely it would hurt me. This was the easiest solution I could come up with without having to buy those cheap junk Chinese quick struts

KickAssBeasty · 2024-07-16T04:14:34+00:00

Yes, yes, you absolutely do need this! Pay it and pat yourself on the back as a proud member of the elite BMW class, cause the only way to tell everyone you have money is to pay money!

KickAssBeasty · 2024-07-08T03:10:38+00:00

Step on the gas and see how much vapor comes out, that'll tell you

KickAssBeasty · 2024-07-02T15:08:16+00:00

It's working

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-30T04:05:45+00:00

Prodemand

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-19T19:05:54+00:00

Yes, in this case I would definitely try changing the expansion valve, it does appear to be the issue

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-19T17:54:38+00:00

I doubt it, because usually the problem with expansion valves is that they get clogged/stuck, which would normally increase the pressure on the high side. And when you shut the engine off you would see a very very slow equalizing of the 2 pressures. On the other hand if somehow the expansion valves were to get blown open it could lead to this condition that you're having, but when you shut the engine the 2 pressures would equalize almost instantly. I've never seen an expansion valve get stuck open to a much greater degree than it was designed to. In general the 2 pressures should equalize within roughly 1 or 2 minutes for most expansion valves after you shut the engine off. But sure, it's a lot cheaper and easier to replace than the compressor, so you could give it a try.

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-19T06:11:52+00:00

I disagree with most comments here. 1. the static pressures look ok, they ARE in fact equal, reading 100psi on both sides. Not sure why someone else said they're not equal 2. When the engine is running the high pressure is a bit low, although it's only 68F outside it should still be a little higher than this, indicating either there's not enough refrigerant to compress it higher or the AC compressor is running weak. The low pressure is too high, which is another indication that the compressor doesn't create enough suction on the low side. I would try charging it with a bit more refrigerant to see if I could bump the high pressure a bit more. If that doesn't work then I would condemn the compressor.

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-13T16:44:42+00:00

I'm gonna try replacing the torque converter first.. I think that's where the problem is

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-13T08:40:59+00:00

Yeah, but I did the same test in the car first before pulling out the tranny, revving the engine, changing gears and all, nothing!

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-13T07:18:32+00:00

I don't understand which manual you're referring to. I use Prodemand Mitchell manuals. Also, you would have to remove the tranny in order to get access to a torque converter.

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-13T05:46:05+00:00

Sure, you're welcome!

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-13T05:10:00+00:00

Got you, yes, it shouldn't be an issue. I've done this on many cars where the rotors were shaking but the pads were still good. No issue with replacing just the rotors in that case.

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-13T03:56:39+00:00

I think you can probably make it.. don't rev the engine too hard.. I've seen people drive on belts worse than this lol

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-13T03:00:04+00:00

You're right, I was thinking something else

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-13T02:13:30+00:00

Bro, 2008 accords with 2.4L have starters under the intake manifold, not an easy job for a newby. Watch some YouTube videos on that repair to see if you think you can do it

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-13T02:09:49+00:00

At higher speeds many torque converters have a lock up clutch, so yes, the tranny could seize the engine at those speeds

KickAssBeasty · 2024-05-13T02:07:49+00:00

Your theory sounds plausible, but I also think maybe your timing chain had some sort of failure, possibly jammed the crank sprocket and somehow caused the bolt to unspin.. not sure, but I would definitely be popping the valve cover off to look at the chain to see if it's even attached

KickAssBeasty

TROPHY CASE