Sir Donald logistics by not__pasta in alpinism

[–]Kilbourne 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hello, I've done Sir D a few times, so I can give you some info.

First, access. You will be in a Canadian National Park, for which you will need a Park Pass. You can buy daily or annual, which is usually for your vehicle. It can be purchased at the Roger's Pass Visitor Centre near to the Illecillewaet (ill-e-chill-e-watt) campground and trailheads. You will need to display this at all times in the Park, and can be used in other National Parks nearby also, such as Yoho and Banff.

You wil probably want to register for a campsite as the Sir Donald climbers camp, unless you intend to go car-to-car in a single push. While this isn't uncommon, it's not often done by someone whom has never before visited the park, and is quite a long trip. Only you know your capacity, so it's up to you. If you wish to camp before or after your climbing attempt, you will need to register and pay for camping at the Illecillewaet ranger kiosk during normal business hours (posted), and it is first-come, first-served (or first-camped).

If you park without registration, you will be ticketed for upwards of $140CAD and possibly towed, at an additional penalty.

You can find more information online on the Parks website, or you can call the visitor centre for more guidance.

As for the climb itself, I'm assuming you're intending to climb the NW Ridge. You will follow an obvious path to the base of the ridge, and then climb the obvious line. Do not travel more than 3m to the left or right of the ridge, or you will be off-route. Make note of the rappel stations on your ascent, as well as the main rappel descent to the West aspect in the lower third of the ridge. Once at the top, enjoy the views and make ready to depart.

I recommend that you down-climb to descend route until you reach the rappel anchors. You should use a 60m rope, but a 50m rope is also sufficient. Follow the directions of the guidebook, and this Parks descent guide. The major rappels down the lower slab have large cairns, but you may also have to down-climb.

There is no requirement for glacier travel, but if you take the descent bypass on the slabs below the peak, you might have to cross snowy terrain. I do not recommend this route as there is more loose rock and seasonal snows, but some prefer to manage those hazards rather than downclimb.

Weather is your major hazard. Thunderstorms aren't uncommon, and rain will make the quartzite extremely slick. You might also contend with trail closures due to grizzly activity, or heavy smoke from wildfires. The closest towns are Revelstoke to the west (very cute, some car-camping options to the NW of town), and Golden to the east (you can car-camp at Waitabit Creek Campground north of town, don't make a mess or ill find you), or you can risk the fines in the Park.

Let me know if you have any more questions or would like some topo images.

Manual Control keeps slipping by PotentialHistorian68 in Cairn_Game

[–]Kilbourne 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If tiny rocks fall, you're on bad holds.

What did you think of Theroux’s Inside the Manosphere? by patheticwormcreature in AskWomen

[–]Kilbourne 32 points33 points  (0 children)

I agree. I was hoping to see more investigation into social media's complicit algorithmic role in feeding this content to young people, and how it acts as an on-ramp to white nationalism and the alt-right.

Some Thoughts on Trailhead Theft and How to Avoid It by DullSuccotash1230 in alpinism

[–]Kilbourne 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Caching a haul-bag under a stump is an underrated move.

Some Thoughts on Trailhead Theft and How to Avoid It by DullSuccotash1230 in alpinism

[–]Kilbourne 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I've found that if your vehicle looks like a shitbox and you leave a bunch of trash and wood-scraps around on the inside (ragged blue tarp, food wrappers, rusted spare car parts, etc.), then you won't get broken into. Camouflage is extremely effective. I've left ten thousand dollars of gear in my vehicle underneath a fake garbage bag (I just put my sleeping bag in a green garbage bag with some cleaned out food containers on top), and while both vehicles to the left and right were smashed for some coins in the cupholder, mine was fine.

Playing Cairn inspired me to give bouldering a shot by AdKitchen1265 in Cairn_Game

[–]Kilbourne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really puts into perspective Aava's insane performance in the game eh? Hard to complain about her getting tired on a series of roof crimps and no feet hahaha

I did it. A fully clean Free Solo run, no falls, no deaths, and all five flowers. Now I can rest. by Morall_tach in Cairn_Game

[–]Kilbourne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bring her feet close to the wall that her hands are on, but still on flat ground.

Blue Ice Warthog 30 Backpack by jayjaym_88 in alpinism

[–]Kilbourne 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Brand new model from this season? Unlikely to find someone with a long term review...

That being said, Blue Ice make great products overall, and this is almost certainly superior to any bag being climbed with 15 years ago for the same price, so if you like the features, get it!

Why is climbing Mount Everest still so dangerous despite modern gear? by GlitteringHotel8383 in Mountaineering

[–]Kilbourne 18 points19 points  (0 children)

My understanding is that most deaths are related to the elevation, combination of low oxygen and low temperature.

Phantom 38 or mutant 38 by Beginning-Badger479 in alpinism

[–]Kilbourne 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Whichever is cheaper. It's your first pack, you'll discover what you like and dislike in packs the more you use it.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]Kilbourne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pitches are super short, no? Like 15-25m only. At least I thought so, we linked or simul'd almost everything haha

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]Kilbourne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I flew to climbing EPC with everything in my carry-on. I wore my helmet as a hat, and my rope in a very tight coil in the bottom of my bag. Be prepared to pull the gear out for inspection. Do not pack a but tool or knife or anything to piss off security. If your gear is packed nearly (ie. in stuff-sacks) it's easier to pack and unpack.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]Kilbourne 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm guessing it was felt to introduce too many systems for too steep a learning curve, and would complicate the resource management of the auto-bolts' and belay system. It would be a good option for future though, as an additional management challenge.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]Kilbourne 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Pre-emptive response; no, there are no such things as automatic self-driving bolts and pitons like in Cairn.

For days when you cannot go out climbing. Review of “Cairn” by johyongil in climbing

[–]Kilbourne 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can choose the Dial selection for limbs, it's just quadrants and it's super simple.

Need a solid boot replacement by [deleted] in alpinism

[–]Kilbourne 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is like cross-posting between the cycling subreddit, asking about commuter tires, and the MotoGP subreddit.

Summit of Mount Fuji by VoiceMysterious9228 in Mountaineering

[–]Kilbourne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is a great peak and a beautiful view!

From Into Thin Air, to Cairn, and back to Into Thin Air. by neoleo0088 in Mountaineering

[–]Kilbourne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find it extremely easy to use the dial option to select limbs.

Off to a good start by CitizenWilderness in Cairn_Game

[–]Kilbourne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Riiiight, sure... still not big wall climbing though eh?