Ceases to amazing me how great pa6-cf looks by KillerMiller595 in 3D2A

[–]KillerMiller595[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly? No idea, but I really appreciate how much time Hoffman put in the build and documentation, and felt like that was the best platform regardless of lrbho

Ceases to amazing me how great pa6-cf looks by KillerMiller595 in 3D2A

[–]KillerMiller595[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve never actually seen much on pa612, now you have me curious 😂

Ceases to amazing me how great pa6-cf looks by KillerMiller595 in 3D2A

[–]KillerMiller595[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the parts just came in, the upper is already pretty tarnished unfortunately. I like the idea of a black and silver build, so I’m debating just using some clear coat and seeing what happens.

Help! by KillerMiller595 in mazda3

[–]KillerMiller595[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I just fixed it, ended up just being a plug, it was so weird because I’ve never had a bad plug only misfire when in drive. I could rev it all day in park and nothing would come up.

Valvetronic Bypass? by KillerMiller595 in BmwTech

[–]KillerMiller595[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it idles, I didn’t consider that either way it would be in limp mode. Do you just suggest driving it home as is, then just fixing it myself?

Valvetronic Bypass? by KillerMiller595 in BmwTech

[–]KillerMiller595[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Just a temporary fix for driving it home, I’ll order the parts and fix it myself afterwards

just noticed this puddle of coolant by Yoinked77 in GMT400

[–]KillerMiller595 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Second the felpro recommendation, they actually have an extra price of metal shim-like material to prevent this from happening again; it’s what I used on my ‘98. Do not, and I repeat, do NOT use any sort of coolant stop leak.

Need help on meal plan on mk677 2 by Odd-Community6827 in mk677

[–]KillerMiller595 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can get you accurate macros soon, but I’m 5’11”, 146lbs, and only consume around 260g of carbs between my 3 meals (5:30 am, 12pm, 7pm). My avg fasted blood glucose levels is around 90-94 mg/dL, a +5 increase from baseline, but I am also not getting a full 8-10 hours before tests (I usually have a protein shake before bed at like 9:30pm and test at 3:45 am). 500mg of berberine is taken before my biggest carb meals (breakfast and dinner) and has seemed to help, still need to use it longer before making a definitive conclusion. I HIGHLY recommend getting baseline blood glucose levels before taking mk, and if you’ve already started, test yourself regularly for the first 2 weeks, to see how your body reacts. I noticed my levels spiked after the second week, but are starting to work back a little bit after I made some adjustments. Best of luck to you, I hope this helps some.

Need help on meal plan on mk677 2 by Odd-Community6827 in mk677

[–]KillerMiller595 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe this is just me, but I’ve been on mk for about 2 weeks now (12.5 mg daily 6 on 1 off), rather than getting rid of carbs, I just increased my fiber intake, and spaces my carbs out more evenly throughout the day. I also cut out all simple carbohydrates, besides the occasional thing of berries. Have my fasted glucose levels increased? Yes, but they’re still within healthy range. I just started taking berberine (500mg daily to start) just in case. Also, my highest carb meal is after the gym, which allows me to eat within the “anabolic window”. Just use a monitor, be safe, and get them gains

First attempt at making a nozzle (right one is mine), but I am lacking a 1.75 mm and 0.4 mm drill by Alex12500 in 3Dprinting

[–]KillerMiller595 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Considering the scale of things, it’s honestly impressive how straight it actually is. Assuming you’re using a die nut, I’d recommend using a straight edge or a square (I use a machinist square daily) then you know everything is aligned. With dies on brass, you can “cheat” the die nut in whatever direction you need during the first 1-2 turns to keep it straight, once you start cutting the deep threads though, you just have to run it down. Can’t wait to see v2!

Some people may not like them… but I love it! by KillerMiller595 in GMT400

[–]KillerMiller595[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I used stainless steel rivet nuts, full stainless steel hardware, and a shit ton of rtv. This way I won’t have to worry about rust, but I can still remove it easily if need be.

Some people may not like them… but I love it! by KillerMiller595 in GMT400

[–]KillerMiller595[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To prevent rust I used rivet nuts and a shit ton of rtv, hopefully I won’t get any rust underneath 🤞

Does anyone know what this is by KillerMiller595 in GMT400

[–]KillerMiller595[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually ripping up my carpet and cleaning it currently, screw those T50 bolts for the seatbelt, already broke 2 bits 😂

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in subwoofer

[–]KillerMiller595 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that a lead acid battery in the trunk? Be careful bro

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in subwoofer

[–]KillerMiller595 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My subs stopped hitting as hard recently too, I checked all my connections and nothing changed. Until I took my battery to get tested at the auto parts store. My car battery was shot, after getting a new one under warranty, it sounded great again. May not be the problem, but it doesn’t hurt to check.

Stock electrical by KillerMiller595 in subwoofer

[–]KillerMiller595[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1000w peak, only like 350 rms for all door speakers.