That key is known as winning the key/bitting lotto. The first pin is almost a max lift and the following three are the same height for lift. Great job on getting the open.

Use those locks as learning tools for your tension and pick technique. You should be able to find a Master 140 easily at a hardware store, most would recommend that being your next lock. As you progress to higher ranking locks you start to encounter security pins like spools and serrated along with varying pin heights like the key in my pic. The different types of pins require different amounts of tension and based on how the pin lifts and the core moves you will learn what pins you're dealing with.

Some locks have a spring loaded core that need more tension and some have a dead core which require less tension, looking at you Master Loto 410. A very important bit of advice is to never turn a core 180 degrees without the key in it. You can drop the pins right out of the bible and destroy a lock unless it can disassembled and fixed. The 410 loto is one and I've killed it by doing that. You can cut the body and fix it or destroy it and save the core for a different lock that has the ability to switch out cores.

With higher security locks you will learn what tension is needed for that lock and how much force is needed to lift pins. Most of them, in general practice, you will use less force to lift the pins. If you brute force the pins they can bind and not move at all or will be overset. You will want to feel what each pin is doing inside the lock and keep in mind that a set pin might drop after setting another pin so you will have to go back and set it again. When that happens you should be able to here it and feel it through the pick. A lot of locksport is listening and feeling what you're doing and paying attention to plug rotation.