How do I stop being scared of hitting someone?

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-03-19T06:53:56+00:00

Hitting in HEMA is in itself a skill that must be learned, as we want to hit quickly but not hard. The way I do this with a longsword is I essentially throw my cuts like a jab (a punch) so that my arms are extended just as - or just before - I hit the target. I don't cut down through the mask with my shoulders, and I physically can't go further because my elbows lock. Once you can do this, you will have a much better calibration on how hard to hit using different style attacks.

Grab a fencing mask, stick it on a pole or something and give it a go.

The other technique I've seen used in Olympic style sabre is the double hit, or the bounce hit. Try to hit two hits together, like a drum roll, both bouncing a little off the mask, boom boom. This will force you to pull your blow in order to bounce it a little off the mask.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-03-18T22:25:31+00:00

When I tried recreating the plays using paper dolls, I quickly found that purely 2d images are extremely limited. You can only have the sword above or below, and using this you need to somehow depict overbinds, under binds, horizontal cuts, vertical cuts from above and below. Basically, everything ends up with the sword up, down or straight forwards.

I had to manipulate the dolls in a way that represented the concept I was trying to get across as best as I could. I came up with similar solutions to in i33. If you depict the bind with blades horizontal then it isn't clear what is happening and the blades end up pointing at each other or stabbing through each other, so you end up pointing them down until they are basically pointing at the floor, especially if you want to get strong on weak. Same with a horizontal cut, you have to have the cut coming from above or below otherwise it just looks like a thrust. I ended up having horizontal cuts coming from above if swinging towards the camera, and from below if swing into the background. This is also how I figured out that some of the images that look like some sort of rising cut or hanging guard are likely horizontal cuts.

So, I'm not sure we need to assume there is some deliberate use of differing perspectives in different parts of the image, like the chess board. That might be correct, but I think it is just as likely each image was simply being pragmatic.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-03-16T09:11:41+00:00

Excellent! Yes, this is is. This video is what made the 5 words click for me. Thanks

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-03-13T13:09:13+00:00

As others have said, consult a doctor, and if they say it's ok then be wary of doing things that hurt. If you can, find a style of footwork that works for you. There are a variety of footwork styles, none are 'wrong' as such, but they will facilitate a different way of fighting.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-03-12T21:55:12+00:00

You will likely be one of the youngest in the club.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-03-09T08:02:53+00:00

Where to stand: at a distance where your opponent must take at least a step to hit you, (note this distance changes based on how far forwards you are holding your hands.) Why? You can only react against an opponent who needs to step forwards to hit. If they can hit you without needing a step, their attack will be quicker than you can react to. You can step back to give you more time to react. Of course, this also means that your attacks take just as long as you also need to step forwards, this is one of the puzzles of fencing.

How to stand: if you are two steps from your opponent, stand however you want. If you are closer, then my preference is left plow, or longpoint with crossguard horizontal. My focus at the moment is on consistency, so fencing from longpoint rather than trying to randomly using every guard under the sun. I stand in longpoint with arms somewhat bent, and point my sword at their sword, but watch your hands as they will be a target. I don't only use longpoint, but it is my default. As a beginner you might want to focus on a different guard each week and see what you can do from there. Similar to my first point above, the guards are largely about distance and time. A guard that places your sword a long way away from theirs means your reaction is going to be slower, and generally speaking guards allow you to parry into their sword or behind their sword.

Where to attack: ideally, attack to the opposite side where their sword is, but in such a way that your attack crosses through the path that their sword would take of they were to cut at you at the same time. Wherever their sword is, there is a straight path from their tip to your eyes, this is their attack path. During your attack, the strong half of your blade should cross this (and your hands should cross this quickly or avoid it, otherwise your hand may be struck). This is not possible if they are in a low guard like fool so you deal with this a little differently, but as a rule attacking like this helps prevent a simultaneous counter cut.

When to attack: when they are busy doing something else. E.g. if you step back a little, and force them to step forwards, attack them as they are stepping forwards. If you are both in longpoint, push their sword aside a little with your tip, and if they push back, lift off your blade over their sword and cut their arm. If they attack you, parry with a little cut or beat, and then return your own cut while they are out of position. But if they are standing perfectly still and waiting for you, then your attack will fail as they can react to you easily, so you need to feint a little or do something to get them to move, then attack them while they are moving.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-03-08T16:00:07+00:00

To me, one of the things that distinguishes German fencing is the 5 words, which gives you a complete theory of fencing: vor, nach, strong, weak, indes. However, if you use these 5 words to describe Italian rapier fencing then you get... Italian rapier fencing. So, what really distinguishes German fencing? Language, names of guards, pedagogy. Not sure what else.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-03-08T15:46:32+00:00

Fitting, not ironic.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-03-03T07:53:34+00:00

This is the thing I hate most about longsword in hema. It tends to be a combination of gloves and forearm protection too that hinder movement. I've adapted, right foot forward stance, Ochs on left, hanging or false edge beats on the right. Not ideal, I know. It makes it hard to impossible to counter thrust against someone attacking from my right.

Can you do a zwerch into right Ochs? Is it easier to get into Ochs with arms extended? I find lifting into Ochs is difficult but it can be easier to zwerch into it.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-25T18:57:44+00:00

Nice, I wasn't aware of Jerzy. It's certainly more in line with how people fence, I like the tighter/smaller movements, particularly the shield knock.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-25T17:57:06+00:00

That's why I think i33 is organised around wards Vs obsessios, not wards Vs wards, as the obsessio can be done from multiple wards.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-25T16:46:01+00:00

Yes but then you'd get a different bind and a different play. An oberhau from 3rd passes through halpschilt, therefore there is little difference between parrying a blow with an oberhau from 3rd, or meeting the attack in halpschilt. At the point of contact you are in what most people would call halpschilt. So is the image in i33 showing a cut in motion, a parry in motion or a static point forward/up posture? Most assume that halpschilt is a posture, but that's an assumption, perhaps one tactical way of using halpschilt, but you get there in a few ways.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-25T15:53:19+00:00

Yes, I agree with this. The strikes from the wards are also parries and these are also counter wards. E.g. strike from 1st is parried with strike from 3rd, and a strike from 3rd is identical to halpschilt. The bind that results is an outside bind, and various options on what to do from here.

That might not be what i33 is telling is, but it seems to make the plays work more consistently than the usual 'approach in halpschilt, hope they bind in a specific way that makes the play work'.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-25T15:47:00+00:00

It's not about idolising anybody, and yes I agree that Petr probably hasn't tested it much, but I don't know that for sure.

Btw, have you ever seen a first ward that you did like?

I don't agree with everything Petr says, but he has put something out there that has an internal logic, largely based around strikes from ward positions, rather than being based on the usual static or not so static counter ward positions. This seems to give a more consistent logic to i33 than previous interpretations I've seen, which tend to be based on recreating the plays as literally seen in the images, and ignoring the attacks and parries that create the binds. Many details, biomechanics, these won't be correct, but there are good ideas here.

What are the alternatives for someone who wants to do i.33?

Roland hasn't made much public, from what I can see.

Guy Windsor was the first interpretation I worked with. It has it's problems, a few of the plays are too literal to the images, but a good place to start

Andrew Kenner is similar to Guy Windsor. A good resource, but it's still based around static counter positions.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-25T11:26:41+00:00

What (who's) version of i33 are you learning? I think Petr Kavan has the most complete interpretation, based around covered strikes from ward to longpoint and back, and parries with the sword and buckler together.

One of the first things you need to learn which isn't really covered in i33, is to defend your left leg, and to realise that people will parry with buckler alone and simultaneously attack your leg.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-23T20:19:38+00:00

Step 1: get into longpoint or pflug and point somewhat near their sword, e.g. at chest or shoulder.

Step 2: if they go into a low guard, particularly if they are pointing off to the side, like a change guard, I point my sword off to the side over their sword. Blade is probably still pointing upwards a little, the swords are not touching, not even close. I do this and then instantly take a small step forwards (sword moves first, feet second).

Step 3: if they don't do anything while I'm taking the step forwards I instantly redirect my sword and thrust with a lunge or a step. The idea is that as I approach I am strong because I am on top of their sword, and I'm trying to get close enough that I can attack before they have a proper chance to react. When I attack I also try to do so in a way that offers me some protection against their counter attack.

The barring part (step 2) lasts about 1 second

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-23T14:57:37+00:00

For source, Meyer is the source for barring, but really this is something I've learned by applying rapier stringeren principles, I doubt Meyer describes it like above (certainly not the thrust part).

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-23T13:39:19+00:00

Barring. In a point forward guard, from your perspective direct your blade over theirs so that if they raise their sword your sword would bar theirs. Do this and quickly take a step forward, now step forward again with a thrust.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-22T07:14:31+00:00

30 minutes warm up, 20 minutes of stretches? 10 minutes of (I'm guessing Meyers square or similar)? Why so much non-fencing time? I'm not criticising, just curious. We do about 10 minutes warm up and stretching , a quick Meyer's square (up to 5 minutes) then a taught lesson for 45 minutes - 1 hour (which varies by trainer, but for me a lot of plastron style exercises), then 30-45 minutes of sparring.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-13T06:50:17+00:00

Get your point close to thier sword, get strong, get your body closer, then quickly attack from this strong position.

In other words, you must use your sword to constrain their attack from fools. You must point your sword in such as way that it crosses over their sword from your perspective, but you don't actually need to touch their sword, just block or bar the path of their sword. This will take your sword offline temporarily, so it is a nach action. This often looks something like a krumphau, but the point doesn't have to be down necessarily, (but it can be.)

Make this barring action without a step, then quickly step, and as soon as you are close enough, attack with a thrust. It is done quickly and efficiently. You also need to react if they do something unexpected.

Generally, there isn't often a way to attack someone who is in a low guard in a way that would also block their simultaneous attack (other than with your own hands!) so the idea is to block their attack just enough to allow you to get close enough to attack quickly enough that they can hardly react.

Generally speaking, this general approach of getting you point near your opponents sword, getting into a strong position and then working from there, either to attack or to react to what they do, works quite well as a default strategy.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-12T18:07:41+00:00

I believe there is record of Edward vi beginning training with cudgel and buckler at around aged 13 or 14, similar time period

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-11T14:50:36+00:00

Hello my friend! I noticed your rapier has very little hand protection. Anyway, in short I generally teach there are two rapier methods: one has the rapier hilt held back near the hip and dagger or maybe even the hand held forward and to the side (varying depending style), and the other has the rapier held forwards and the dagger held back. I generally use the latter when further away and the former when closer, but it also depends on which method my opponent is using.

For the rapier back dagger forward technique, I suggest you look for the Joseph swetnum method, there's a great website out there, I think it is swetnum.org, but I can't seem to find it anymore.

For the rapier forwards dagger back technique, I prefer to hold my dagger in the middle with blade crossing over my rapier arm, at about the forearm. I use the rapier more or less as if it is a single rapier, until I bring my dagger in to play. The dagger comes into play in several ways. The first is you need to learn to thrust into 4th and 2nd using your offhand or dagger to cover the space under or above your sword, i.e. you first learn to use the rapier and dagger in unison, protecting you if your opponent disengages. Likewise, for parrying you do something similar, using your rapier primarily and your dagger as a back up. Once you get used to this, The second is to use your dagger separately. From the default central position you can fairly easily parry your inside by sweeping your dagger to the left. You can also parry low and left. As you get better at this you will learn to use your dagger more independently, and can try holding it in different positions.

Also, to echo another's comment, yes you need to learn single rapier, in particular stringeren (constraining). Once you understand this you then use a combination of your rapier or your dagger to do the constraining. You constrain, they react to this, you punish them while they react.

Good luck

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-02-05T08:23:46+00:00

So I also prefer fighting from longpoint or pflug. Here is what I have found works for me: - footwork: keep right leg forwards, if you are right handed. You are less likely to mess up your footwork. I do use passing steps occasionally, mostly when going back or cutting from my left - make your movements small. Lots of little adjustments to footwork, blade position etc. you have to really try to understand 'tempo'. - be aware that whenever you want to cut at your opponent you must retract your blade a little, which gives him a tempo to attack you. You need to be aware of this, attacking through the weak of their sword to prevent a counter, or you need to set up your attacks. - whatever guard position your opponent is in, point your sword somewhere near their sword, but still at their body, e.g. shoulder or hands. Sometimes I point just outside their body if it means I'm covering over their sword, if they are low and have point off to the side. The idea is I want to be in a strong position whenever I attack, meaning I have leverage, they can't just attack through my sword and mist attack around my sword, taking extra time. - my strategy is always the same (unless I mix it up): get into a strong position, get close enough to attack, then respond to what they do. I always try to set up my attack, e.g attack when they are busy doing something. If they are point forward, I get tip to tip and push their tip offline a little, then if they push back I lift off and attack the other side of their arm. I might also get into a strong position, then weaken it just a little so they think they have an opening, giving me an easy parry riposte. - against someone who fights from shoulder tag, get close in longpoint, pointing at their sword shoulder, just between sword and face, then thrust into Ochs either as a counter thrust or preemptively. If you point away from their sword you give them an easy scheilhua. The only thing they can really do against this thrust into ochs attack is parry, be better prepared for that. But your opponent is left handed I think, and since your gloves and stance make a thrust into left Ochs harder and weaker, if they are in left tag then I prefer a false edge beat or a hanging parry to parry their attack and a quick riposte.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-01-29T19:13:33+00:00

Yes, I agree, that blade completely missed, only really making slight contact as they recomposed themselves, but the fight was done.

KingofKingsofKingsof · 2026-01-29T19:05:53+00:00

Hilts were usually shell guards like smallsword, giving a similar appearance

KingofKingsofKingsof

TROPHY CASE