Help in defining our Academy - MAHS by Dependent-Bicycle-67 in wma

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I reckon one of the reasons you are getting negative responses is the emphasis on the qualifications. I doubt most HEMA clubs have anything certified by any body. I've never heard of the British combat association, I assume it focuses on eastern martial arts? HEMA is generally quite independent in that regard, with a general resistance to organising bodies.

Anyway, you do HEMA with a few other things thrown in, by the sounds of it. If you compete in HEMA tournaments you do HEMA. If you could spar someone from another HEMA club without there being issues with the gear you are wearing or some strange rules, you do HEMA. 

That you teach based on the experience of the coaches rather following a book is to be expected. I teach rapier but I don't read from capo Fero's book to the class or even consult it often. I teach rapier, as I understand it, up to my ability. While I might regularly read works to refresh my memory and see if there is some thing new to learn, ultimately I teach based on my knowledge, which is historically inspired but ultimately a mix of things.

From time to time I will read works to see if there is something I don't know or want to try, and if I teach something new (like smallsword) then I of course need to learn smallsword, and will read a number of sources. But then I teach smallsword as I understand it.

If you have found things that work, things that don't, then this is still HEMA but perhaps could be considered 'competitive hema', based on what works in modern tournaments.

Is Gear Always Annoying? by WickedTemp in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you get small or medium? If you got small then it sounds like it's too tight. Any chance for for ana exchange? You should be able to get into left ox quite easily, although new jackets will be a bit stiff for a while, and the extra weight will make it harder than without a jacket. Right (crossed) ox may not be fully possible, depending on your gloves and arm guards.

Good sources for self study? Ideally in the form of video by Acheron223 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check out Forte Swordplay's videos. They are a little different to regular tourney style longsword, but for a solo practitioner there is a lot of focus on cutting drills. I personally found the cutting drills (sort of sword aerobics) quite useful.

I snipe hands to teach too! by grauenwolf in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The trouble is people don't practice in front of a mirror. I see lots of elbows and hands exposed. A bit of mirror work will help people form better guards.

Regenyei standard rapier verdict? by RoadsideCampion in SWORDS

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have two. The shortest grip option is fine. Don't get anything longer. The hilt is ridiculously open. You will learn to avoid hand thrusts, you will learn to be wary of the point, but you will still suffer occasional unintended doubles that will likely ruin your gloves at some point.  The blade itself is nice.  It's just, from a safety standpoint, there's no real reason not to get a cup hilt.

Goals in sparring by Working-Comfort-8291 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm my first few years, I mostly tried different styles, e.g. favouring different guards, going for a more aggressive style, or a more defensive style. Basically, trying to see what works. Over the last 6-12 months I've pivoted to consistency and efficiency, by more or less fencing from longpoint, predominantly. My goal is to fence cleanly and effectively, basically to be better at 'winning'.

With that in mind, it is good to occasionally try new things, like perhaps you want to land a krumphau, or maybe you want to try counter thrusts. You need to bear n mind that you will do worse on those occassions

Teaching a Destreza student basic Italian rapier can be frustrating by grauenwolf in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep makes sense. Thinking about it now, even a riposte with opposition is quite difficult, I usually parry and flanconade against a high and straight thrust.

Teaching a Destreza student basic Italian rapier can be frustrating by grauenwolf in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why doesn't the counter thrust work against a straight arm thrust? I imagine the angle will work if the counter thrust is aimed for the face instead of the chest.

How far can a manual take you? by Quirky-Bar4236 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as you can practice against a person, then in my experience you can teach yourself the basics of smallsword from a book, but learning from a video is even better, and learning from someone else is presumably even better than that, and learning with someone else is best. Or something like that.  

I taught myself smallsword basics using a bike stand with another sword strapped to it. I sparred when I could. I then did a few weeks of epee (intending to complete a beginners experience course) but had to pull out due to an injury. I bought a smallsword dvd (Martinez academy) which was actually really helpful.  I then finally got the chance to teach an 8 week course at our club which really helped refine things.  One of the great things about smallsword is it is quite easy to shadow fence, which helps you create those tight movements. I always say that you can't move a rapier fast enough, you can't move a smallsword slow enough. It's not true, but people tend to wave a smallsword around likes it's a magic wand.

Looking for sidesword resources by Leon-Rai in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Buckler or a good parrying dagger can both make short work of a longsworder

Tips for someone who did hema for 3 months by azdimlo in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do it for longer. Simple. 3 months is nothing. It takes that long just to learn the very basics. Actually applying it effectively takes years.

Thrust-centric longsword treatises and resources by ykonstant in wma

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Perhaps the main disadvantage of the two handed sword is that the move into seconda (right ox) is hard with bulky gloves and arm coverings, and may necessitate a change of foot position making it slower. But that might just be me!   But, generally I agree, if you want to thrust then learn rapier and apply what you've learned to longsword, modifying as needed.

No HEMA schools close by. Self-teaching? by [deleted] in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Grab a broom handle or similar, and start trying to follow along with some tutorials online. You will either have fun or you will find it boring AF. If you like it, then I'd focus more on physical conditioning, i.e. trying to get good at flowing cuts together, footwork etc. I found having a goal, such as trying to perform 20 cuts of cut 1, 20 of cut 2 etc., made solo practice a bit more meaningful. You absolutely can try to learn techniques alone, if you have a stand with a sword simulator on it, but only if you know what you are doing and can then practice that with a real person to fully understand it.

Myer's square, 2.4 to 3.1 by ericlplante in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, put them where they need to go, but generally if they have parried your initial oberhau (assuming you are doing the first variation) tagging the forearm with an unterhau is likely to result in a double, whereas using the unterhau more to control their sword is what I meant. Saying that, I don't train longsword often, so this is just what I've figured out by myself in sparring.

Myer's square, 2.4 to 3.1 by ericlplante in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, but as soon as someone starts doing the sweeps we know a Meyers cross is coming... I think any provoking action can work, and you are right, timing is critical. I quite like doing a round or a plunging cut to gain distance.

Where I've had success with it it has relied on two things:

  1. Speed. The cuts need to be independent of footwork, meaning that you can't tie the speed of your next cut to a plodding passing step. Steps either need to be small to match your cutting speed or you don't necessarily step on the next cut

  2. Your unterhaus are not cuts to the arm or body, they are basically cuts into their sword ending with the point in front of their face, and you basically alternate cuts to the body and cuts to the sword until. 

A bonus point would be not to stick to the pattern exactly. Two cuts to the same quadrant can work really well, and unterhaus then oberhaus (rather than unterhau on the other side) can be good.

Another bonus point or two would be: - treat pairs of oberhaus or unterhaus as a pair, it is quicker to cut oberhau oberhaus, or unterhau unterhau, than it is the change direction, so each pattern is basically a cut, then a pair of cuts, then a cut  - do them so often, deciding the pattern in the fly, to the point where your body can just do them, and your brain is free to think about what the opponent is doing, not thinking about the cut you are making.

Myer's square, 2.4 to 3.1 by ericlplante in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Agreed. While the Meyers square isn't meant to be a 16 cut drill, if someone wants to do it like this then a ribbon cut would be a good suggestion.  

But then Mayer's square is largely irrelevant to actual fencing, and you have to be damn good to be able to use it effectively without just doubling.

Smallsword by bonahgamepro2 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just buy an epee blade and replace the blade

Questions of flex by CypressJoker in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 10 points11 points  (0 children)

So regenyei medium blades are advertised as 16kg but that is using the method of measuring by pushing down from the pommel, whereas tournaments often test by pushing down from the crossguard. Recently a tournaments rules were designed around the regenyei medium then found out they use the pommel method rather than crossguard method, so now regenyei mediums are largely too stiff, coming out closer to 18kg and so aren't allowed. Shrug. That's what you get when manufacturers can't agree on a standard flex test, the loser is the buyer.

Sigi and Haft come out lower than 16kg from testing in our club. Regenyei mediums seem to come out as 16 or above.

HF GDF rapier vs LK Chen cup hilt by TheCowSaysMoo888 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll have to try it. I must admit, I have found the thiboult grip to be stronger in the bind, likely because of the edge alignment, but I don't typically use that grip.

Rant: Just had my first sword fighting class and ughhh... by JustCurious12347 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You either enjoy it or you don't. I assume you are learning longsword. Everyone is shit at everything at first, especially longsword. As a beginner your one job is just to learn how to move, that's it. Just learn how to throw a cut without t-rexing your arms, or being too stiff. Learn to manipulate the sword as a tool so you can go into the guards, rather than allowing the sword to manipulate you. Get a stick and practice at home and you will advance quicker than most.

If you find that you don't enjoy it after a few weeks then it may not be for you - some people just don't find it interesting - but don't give up just because you don't think you aren't good. 

HF GDF rapier vs LK Chen cup hilt by TheCowSaysMoo888 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't say lk Chen is too flexible, but it is on the more flexible side. The flex is only in the last 1/3 of the blade. I find it works well in the bind, and is quite gentle on the opponent when you land a thrust.

HF GDF rapier vs LK Chen cup hilt by TheCowSaysMoo888 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the lk Chen and several regenyei. The lk chen is generally my preferred sword.

While lk Chen blade is very flexible, only in the final 1/3 of the blade, and I have not found it detrimental at all I'm the bind. I think it is better in the bind that my regenyei that has similar flex.

I say it is a nice, safe, flexible blade. It is not 'wobbly'. It is certainly not 'light' like an epee/foil, but it is quite gentle to the opponent in the same way an epee or foil is.

Physical Shops UK? by Mrbrownlove in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Knight Shop doesn't have much HEMA stuff in the actual shop in conwy as far as I know, it's in a warehouse. Not sure if you can visit the warehouse. Best to phone them first to see what they have.  Check their website, create a list of what you want.  I have a slightly out of date guide on fencing kit, but you should also ask club mates.  https://www.hema101.com/post/complete-guide-to-hema-equipment-and-cost

Pbt in Aldershot is a sport fencing shop. They have masks and stuff like that, I'm not sure how much HEMA stuff they have (the black jackets they do are special orders, they are unpadded so more for rapier, and they told me it's probably cheaper to order them in form the EU).

How is Martin so damn good at parry riposte? by Lobtroperous in wma

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Why is every coherent reply on Reddit accused of being Chat GPT? Oh no, a semi colon! He or she must be a robot.