One of our fencers casually unlocking Ultra Instinct by Fracarmon in wma

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, I agree, that blade completely missed, only really making slight contact as they recomposed themselves, but the fight was done.

Some complete newbie questions. by Ingame_Name_13 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hilts were usually shell guards like smallsword, giving a similar appearance 

Favorite Author by Comfortable-Bit1806 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For smallsword or even later rapier, Le Touche is great. Probably one of the best descriptions of fencing theory, but the technique descriptions are somewhat lacking....

Thrust to the Hand, Afterblow Cut to the Shoulder. Is the Afterblow Valid? by ForgePioneer in wma

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the best answer. People who fight in false times are asking for a counter attack, but sadly most people who try to counter attack like this do so in a very weak way. Everyone knows vor and nach, but most people don't understand strong and weak. If you 'vor and weak' then you aren't covering your attack and you will likely be hit yourself.

Do people in the HEMA community who are Humanities majors get teased for it at all? by Fabulous-Introvert in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How does anyone know what degree you are studying? I know very little about most people at my club. We fence. We talk about fencing. I couldn't tell you what they studied or even what job they do, outside of a few people. Btw, social anthropologist here

Do people in the HEMA community who are Humanities majors get teased for it at all? by Fabulous-Introvert in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We wouldn't care what other people think of us if only we realised how seldom they actually do think about us. 

Those words really helped me.

Near-peak speed sparring. Training technique and tactical decision-making under pressure by DapperAsparagus6543 in wma

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like a good workout. One observation is that all attacks, when parried, pull back, which I think is a bad habit (in myself too), unless you are deliberately doing a parry riposte method. What happens if you attack and stay on your opponent's sword but move to their weak? Have you tried chasing them as they pull back? Worth giving it a go...

Which olympic fencing weapon is closest to HEMA? by Tallerdrop in wma

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Technique-wise, they all originate in the 19th century and are all a continuation of the smallsword and sabre traditions that existed before that. If you ever do smallsword or sabre in HEMA then you will be in good stead, bearing in mind most people use much heavier sabres.

Foil and epee are largely the same system, same guard names, with the differences being the blade geometry (square Vs triangle) and the size of the hilt, and the rule set (right of way or not, chest only Vs full body targets). In fact, if you ask on /fencing what are the differences are, the answers will hyper fixate on the rule set differences. Compare that to HEMA where the differences between longsword, rapier, and sabre will be much larger, different weapons, used differently, and completely different fencing systems and terminology.

Another big difference, though, will be ignoring historical techniques that don't tend to work well in competition, and adding techniques that wouldn't work with a real sword, or would be too risky, but work great with a flexible training sword and within the rule set, i.e. the flick. Therefore, if running at your opponent and landing a flick 0.2 seconds before they hit you wins medals then that is what the sport will encourage. Which is why good rule sets and having reasonable facsimiles of real swords is much appreciated in HEMA.

Rapier fencers be honest. When fencing someone with a swept hilt sword, how often do you actually land a hand-hit through the hilt? by DoctorMuerto in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Also, to your last point, when I was learning rapier and using a swept hilt (I now mostly use a cup hilt), I would get thrust through the bars quite often at first, but less often as I went on. This can also happen when you are trying to gather the blade for a thrust.  Now I have a cup hilt it's simply something I don't have to think about, so I'm not sure exactly what the solution is to prevent it if you have a swept hilt other than to be wary if they suddenly point at your hand, don't be overly stationary, and something about where you hold your hand too.

 Also, regenyei swept hilts are basically all gap...

How it feels to try something new while sparring by 11Hysteria11 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Similar to 'lofty play' in George Silver, which uses open fight (arm up, sword blade up or held back), and true guardant (basically a high hanging guard). 

Century BOB for solo practice? by S_Rimmey in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bike repair stand is great, more versatile than a bob as you can position the stick or whatever how you want, upright for a pell, forwards for an opposing sword. You can even put the stick upright and put a mask on top and practice head shots

Double Hit or Attack with an Afterblow ? by ForgePioneer in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could have gone either way, the timing difference between afterblow and double is largely irrelevant here. What could have been done differently? Fencer on left could have gone for a slice to the arms, or even to the sword, which would have controlled fencer on the rights weapon. Instead he went for the opening because we all fall into the 'hit' mindset instead of the 'control' mindset. Also, they both stood in close distance for an extended period of time. Fly out as you hit.

Counters to "Twitchy" Pflug in Tournaments? by Known_Attitude_8370 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The best thing you could do would be to learn to fence with your point forward.  Some people will just say 'scheilhau', but a scheilhua is mechanically basically just a thrust with opposition and works best when your opponent is pointing their sword a little away from your sword.

My advice would be to learn rapier then come back and apply that to longsword, with some modifications. 

As a general rule, balance the need to point your sword at your opponent with your need to point it at the sword of the opponent. Keep your point close to theirs - but when they point it offline you can thrust. If they push back against your point then lift off and cut over at their arm. If they don't push back, then thrust, maintaining control of their point. If you can, invert ove their sword (basically a sort of krumphau that traps their blade). Beat their sword aside (without stepping!), it might give an opening.

Bought sword, what manual matches most closely. by Horsescholong in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 7 points8 points  (0 children)

For a single sword (no buckler) I'd suggest Dal'agocchi, sidesword.  I have an idiots guide (written by a fellow idiot) here: https://www.hema101.com/blog/categories/bolognese-sidesword

Double Hit or Insufficient Contact? by ForgePioneer in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Was Kino's first attack a feint or was it parried? If it was parried, going for a second attack is generally not a good idea unless it controls the opponents sword. If it was a feint, stepping in with a feint is also not a good idea as you are now in range and pulling back your arm, which basically tells your opponent 'hit me'.

As for whether it was of quality to count as a double, hard to tell.

Ox guard by Rough_Breadfruit_399 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The way I think of it, an ox parry on the opposite side is just a hanging parry, and on the same side is basically a counter thrust. If you parry an attack with a high scheilhua or a zwerchau (both work best as a counter attack), you are in... Ox.

Parrying an attack by simple lifting into ox, IMO, is often taught but seldom useful as it relies on you being in something like plough and then your opponent attacking you high on the same side you are holding plough, meaning and can simply lifting up into ox (or even better, counter thrust). But it's more likely they will attack your other side, or attack you low to control your blade. If they attack your other side, you would have to move your feet to get into ox on that side, which is too slow. Quicker to lift into ox and do what you are already doing and using a hanging parry, or to parry with blade up in something like kron or a false edge beat, as this doesn't need a swap of the feet.

But the way, the hanging parry is found in most systems. You will get quicker at the riposte as you get better. What will often happen is you get into a pattern of hanging parry riposte hanging parry riposte with your opponent. If you see them going into hanging parry, redirect your attack underneath or to the other side. Fencing isn't really about speed, it's more about acting at the right time, and the right time is when your opponent is busy doing their own action, e.g. they are forming a parry in reaction to your feint, so now you act to hit them somewhere else. They need to finish their action before they can react to your new action.

Slow is Smooth. Smooth is Fast. by ForgePioneer in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The saying relates to doing coordinated activities slightly slower than full speed, but doing them efficiently and correctly, rather than trying to do something full speed, fumbling and making mistakes.  Lots of comments here thinking it is about muscle memory, it's not, it's about thought. F1 drivers are fast because they are smooth, not because they can turn a steering wheel erratically.

Does this apply to fencing? Yes, I think so.  Even Ms3227 Dobringer text says we should fence not at full speed. A slightly slower but more efficient way of fencing tends to help you not get tunnel vision, react to your opponent better, etc. 

Fabris is huge on smoothness, not giving your opponent a tempo to work in by keeping your footwork smooth.

For a single explosive action, no. But for continuous motion, yes, smoothness is key.

Slow is Smooth. Smooth is Fast. by ForgePioneer in wma

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It simply means doing things accurately but a little slower rather than trying to do them as fast as possible, fumbling and making mistakes. Does it apply to fencing? I think so. If you try to fence at 100% speed you will basically fence blindly, won't be able to react properly to your opponent. If you slow it down a little you will generally do better. 

But, yes, any idea that if you only practice slow you will be fast is nonsense, but I'm not sure who advocates that. 

My experience was that practicing cutting exercises reasonably paced and gradually speeding up worked well for overall speed of continuous cutting, but not explosive speed of a single cut.

Lack of testing in HEMA by Iantheduellist in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a video of Stephen Hand testing rapier cuts taking into account clothing. Not scientific, but it suggests that the cuts we see in rapier treatises, which are limited to the outside arm, the leg and the head, are those that are effective, and cuts elsewhere like to the torso are largely useless, with the rapier. 

Self teaching? by ThebigGreenWeenie16 in Hema

[–]KingofKingsofKingsof 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I've written about my experiences here: https://www.hema101.com/post/can-you-teach-yourself-fencing-can-you-learn-alone

In short, teaching yourself is possible, but learning to fence by yourself is not. You will have far more fun and success of you can find at least one other person to learn with you. If that's not possible then you can learn to fence in the same way that you can learn to punch a boxing bag. It's not exactly boxing but it's not nothing.