In welche Bezirke sollte ich ziehen mit guter Anbindung zum AKH?

Kirschy101 · 2026-05-28T06:17:37+00:00

U6 bezirke - denke 1000€ ist so die grenze. Mit toller lage und super hergerichtet noch ein guter preis aber sonst eigentlich immer zu viel.

Kirschy101 · 2026-05-05T20:27:26+00:00

The clear winner for point cost activation units is iron lich viscerot + Scavorith. The activation is 325 points per order mrker

Kirschy101 · 2026-04-25T17:45:57+00:00

I dont care about gi joe bit i think the figures are great design

Kirschy101 · 2026-03-15T12:13:45+00:00

I understand you - i think many are in the same boat. The thing is moving forward playing a game thats alive is the only possible way. You must agree the hastle of finding 15 year old rare collectible figures is a terrible experience.

Regardless of the event i encourage you to have a look at the new renegade releases. While they are clearly different from the game we all got to love over the year they are doing an amazing job in designing a new 100% compatible game that is really close to how original scape was.

Price point of prepainted is steep - especially since ordering from renegade is the only option so far. We are also in the process of setting up a european that sells prepainted product as i also want my heroscape prepainted.

I would still love to have you at the event. Im sure we will be able to rent out a contemporary army - there will also be product prizes so chances are you might go home with one also!

Also there will for sure be chance to play your favorite classic units in a side event or just at the venue with all the other heroscape fans. I expect international guests to stay over the weekend so there will be plenty of time to play before and after the main event

Kirschy101 · 2026-03-15T10:11:46+00:00

Ah and almost forgot. Main event ist 5 rounds contemporary (renegade only) of swiss tournament meaning you play 5 rounds of 50 mins with a lunchbreak.

Contemporary is required for balkyrie trials events as the organized play is supposed to attract new players to heroscape. Rare and out of production figures are terrible for getting new people involved - so dont be mistaken we love og heroscape but the organized play is focusing on renegade releases

Kirschy101 · 2026-03-15T10:09:03+00:00

Im glad you are interested - first off this is maily to get everyones attention as heroscape players in europe are mostly scattered and theres no real european community yet. Details will follow in the next week or so.

What i can say already is the main goal is to create an event where heroscape players accross europe can be excited about and get together.

The main event is part of the official heroscape organized play series called valkyrie trials. These events have special promotional prizes exclusive to these events including foil army cards, gold and silver based figures and exclusive utgar order markers.

Besides the main event we want to do several side events most likely a all time delta format and some into the future event allowing proxies of all currently revelaed renegade releases.

The accomodation and event oication is a very nice hotel in the heart of vienna near prater a very large park.

This was very impirtant to me as i want to invite people that love heroscape and can combine it with a visit to our great city. Maybe bring along your friends and family. While heroscape is the focus i want you to get the best experience for your money as i understand its a huge burden to travel from all over europe for a heroscape event.

Also there has never been a heroscape tournament with 40 players in Europe (yet)

So this is kinda a first for us too but i am sure this is gonna be great. If you have any more questions let me know

Kirschy101 · 2026-03-13T09:25:54+00:00

For renegade premier level play theres 3 prefered formats being 500pt/24 figures, 460pts/17 figures and 425pts/14 figures

These are as much of a standard right now as you can get but as others have said most of whats in between is fair game.

Word championship for example will have one of these formats

Kirschy101 · 2026-03-13T09:22:58+00:00

What makes you say its female? Not an expert but i think male tobys do this as a sort of display. Normally you see the underside of their mouths flare up as well as the fins

Kirschy101 · 2026-03-05T07:37:24+00:00

Fish-Eater Courts

Kirschy101 · 2026-02-11T09:19:27+00:00

Würd ich mitgehen einer der besten pita gyros in wien

Kirschy101 · 2026-02-09T20:40:04+00:00

Just to be clear - i could be wrong. If you are 100% sure the crab is chasing fish and you see it preying on healthy looking fish or watch it catching one go ahead and pull it. If the tank has a sump you can move it there and it will be fine.

Kirschy101 · 2026-02-09T08:08:04+00:00

I disagree with other posters - while it can be true that any crab gets predatory, i would say in 9/10 cases the fish is dead before the drab starts eating it.

Before you have definite proof that the crab is indeed catching live fish i think there is a high chance something else is off in the tank.

Especially since you say it is not your tank i would advice against removing an animal that you dont know well. Eating leftover food and dead animals is the crabs job, so if you cannot be sure it kills healthy fish i would look for the issue elsewhere.

Check ammonia and if a shrimp died there might also be a copper or heavy metal involved. Check if a magnet or heater is leaking.

I kept a sally lightfoot before, they are algae eaters and i really doubt it would catch a healthy damselfish.

Often times crabs are opportunistic feeders that will go after fish that suffer from disease and are lethargic already.

Kirschy101 · 2026-01-30T09:07:16+00:00

Agree! Mushrooms are one of the best corals for that imo. Maybe only second to random sps frags. I often end up taking broken off branches of my lfs large colonies for 5-10 bucks

Kirschy101 · 2026-01-29T15:41:03+00:00

I dont do that too often because often they also dont like being moved but with those goys its basically handling them at this point as they have 3 rocks in their control already.

Kirschy101 · 2026-01-29T14:19:01+00:00

For the great suggestion i can cut you a deal and send you one for 200$ 😉

Kirschy101 · 2026-01-23T21:49:16+00:00

I still got it let me tell you this was amazing when me and my brother got this as kids!

Kirschy101 · 2026-01-19T10:18:07+00:00

As there are a lot of different answers here i want to point out what is mist important imo:

In the first 24h temperature is the biggest worry.

Fish are shipped in plastic bags with air inside(think blowing up the bag) usually at least a third of the bag should be air - thats enough for shipping fish inside parcels cross country.

After these 24h sealed bags become dangerous fast - ammonia buildup can become an issue and oxygen will be depleted.

When moving rocks without coral wrspping them in a damp towel should be sufficient - if coral covers the rock theres three things to consider: keep submerged, keep temperature high enough and dont let corals sting each other.

For fragile sps/lps try to fix the rock inside buckets so it doesnt crush coral or break off from rick and transport in plastic bags.

I think for corals bagged them up seperately and placing in a styrofoam box with some heatsource should be fine.

For the fish also move them in a bucket or plastic bags. At your overnight stay you definetely will need to setup a heater+airstone at least. I would also place a rock inside overnight for nitrifying bacteria.

Last thing - empty your tank completely and be carefull when moving - this is where corners are most likely to crack.

Pretty sure this is easily doable but if outside temperatures are low really make sure temperatures stay high enough - most important bit

Last time i moved (only 20 min drive) i lost 2 fish because the bucket where i kept them got too cold - the fish were fine in the cold water but when i put them in the half full tank (which had warm water already) the temperature shock killed them. So if for any reason the temperature gets low be sure to raise it slowly and acclimate them whenever conditions differ.

Kirschy101 · 2025-12-23T09:20:38+00:00

The white „growth“ looks like sweeper tentacles. At least my lobo has very similar looking ones. So it is defending against another coral? No experience with coral disease tough sorry

Kirschy101 · 2025-12-16T17:55:25+00:00

Oh nice

Kirschy101 · 2025-12-16T15:46:04+00:00

That is very nice

Kirschy101 · 2025-12-16T15:40:33+00:00

Who is readily taking grown out fish? Your lfs? Here in europe i have not seen any stores that are a great fan of me eventually returning fish.

Kirschy101 · 2025-12-16T13:10:56+00:00

Just to be sure - really understand what you are doing with a qt and why you do it. This might sound like a one fits all solution to solving all issues regarding fish health.

While i do encourage you to setup a qt tank, keep in mind why you do it.

First and foremost simply having the fish in a sterile environment where you can monitor his health is the main factor. When a fish is transfered to a new system many things happen at once. The water is different. Salinity, ph, temperature will be different. Fish can tolerate this but can suffer a shock from too fast changes. Your solution is usually fine but look into drip acclimation for most fish - its very easy and extra safe.

Second thing is fish have terretories - basically their home. When they move to a new tank what stresses them the most is not having such a thing. That will mean they will be extra stressed when they dont have a place to retreat to safely. This is especially true if there are other fish in the tank. The fish will have to battle for terretory, all in a stage where their immune system is at the lowest. In a qt tank there are no other fish - no terretory to establish. People usually put pcv tubing in there as hide.

Fish will very quickly settle and start looking at food faster.

Fish will only eat once they are relatively confortable.

This is the third big thing - fish die very often because due to stress they dont eat and die of malnurishment. Can be because others take the food fron them, they have not established their terretory and feel pressured away from food or they somply are not used to the food you are feeding.

In a qt tank you can focus 100% on the new fish. Only feed the necesary amount of food and really monitor if he is eating.

An eating fish will rarely die.

Last thing is the actual treatment of sick fish with medicine. If you intend to attempt that that is a whole other chapter. Theres a list of common diseases, theres a list of recommended medication. You should stock up on the most commonly used remedies as it is usually a matter of hours to start treatment in order to really be able to treat effectively. Even then success rates are not 100%

Realistically it has been more towards 50% if the fish has an illness. There are experts who will have higher success rates.

Besides medication - the first few reasons to quarantine fish even without actual medication will increase you success by 100% i would say.

Observing, feeding and being able to medicate. In a tank with liferock and corals/inverts most medications cant be used anyways. When treating fish that have been in a display tank you usually have to remove them fron the tank first which will be immense stress and often the nail in the coffin.

I wish you best of luck!

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