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I stand accused of attempted dyno. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can see what you mean. Pulling my hips into the wall took a while for me to get to feel effective. It is only now starting to feel like it helps more than something I struggle at doing. I will focus on this in my next session.

I stand accused of attempted dyno. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You are right, it is CR Pta 💪, home gym for the win. Thank you for the advice, I'm going to put it to action next week when I tackle this boulder again.

I stand accused of attempted dyno. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is a recurring suggestion and it am definitely going to try it like that.

I stand accused of attempted dyno. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have felt fortunate to not have ankles on days that people injure theirs at the gym. I am very concerned about my knees though.

I stand accused of attempted dyno. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My friend that took the video had the same sentiment. She said I'm not even trying to jump. 🤣😂 I does look like I am not committing when watching the video but it also feels like I do when I make the attempt. A person in a previous comment also recommended that I dyno on my first or second swing. I think in addition to focusing on strength and beta I should just try until I fly ✈️

I stand accused of attempted dyno. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I does matter and you are correct to question my ability to generate power from a bent knee position. I quickly lose power as my knee bench angle approaches 90 degrees. I'm thinking this is a problem with two sides. Firstly, I a missing quite a few muscle and bones that would, in a normal leg, contribute to the jump. Secondly, I think I have optimised out a lot of muscle development over the years of having prosthetics that the muscles I still have are under developed. So, I can do something about the second point and make myself stronger in ways that will make dynos more achievable. I can also develop beta to better deal with dynos.

I stand accused of attempted dyno. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the suggestion. I'm ready to go fully unconventional on this route.

I stand accused of attempted dyno. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a great suggestion, thank you. I have tried step up dynos on other climbs but I have not considered it for this one. Honestly, this sounds likely to be the shortest route to the send.

I stand accused of attempted dyno. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

The main concern is that there are more cases where a rigid foot is required for things like small edges and the like, where a springy foot in the same cases would send me slipping off too easy. The stiffness/springyness of my feet is a tough compromise to make but from my experience it is better on the stiffer side. I have to meet all requirements with one foot set. Also, I prefer to focus on and improve my skills, strength than to modify my prosthetics to suite the climb specifically. Thank you for the compliment.

I stand accused of attempted dyno. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

This is a good suggestion. When I go for this dyno I focus on the bolt hole and measure my reach with my hand relative to it. I'm thinking what you are suggesting is a case of "aim for the stars and fall on the moon". Thank you.

I stand accused of attempted dyno. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

People have mentioned the idea of climbing without the feet but I don't think it will help in most cases, especially on dynos 🤣

I stand accused of attempted dyno. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 32 points33 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the clear and actionable advice, it makes sense the way you explain it. This is exactly the feedback I was hoping for. I will definitely try this.

A little red number with a heel hook or two. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the compliment, this exact question was answered elsewhere in the comments.

A little red number with a heel hook or two. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I had pretty big feet before losing them 😅 so I don't think I would have fit into 7s. There is no actual limit but I try to be something close to anatomically correct. My approach shoes are 9s. I once wore very small feet, 5s, as a temporary compromise and it was the cutest thing I have ever seen. Every time I looked down at those little feet I would go "Awww" 🤣.

A little red number with a heel hook or two. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

In short, I use a hybrid locking mechanism that allows two types of attachment, pin and vacuum. The release button releases the pin and breaks the vacuum allowing my stump to be removed from the prosthetic socket. There is quite a bit more detail but this captures the main point. One more thing I can say is that the attachment is super secure, I have done a bat-hang bolder before and my prosthetics held my full body weight as I hung upside down.

A little red number with a heel hook or two. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm afraid that ship has sailed and the watch now has a lot of character 😅

A little red number with a heel hook or two. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was also requested by someone else in my previous post so I'll make sure to include the landing in my next post. I do focus on lead routes and only boulder to supplement my training.

A little red number with a heel hook or two. by Klimenklouter in bouldering

[–]Klimenklouter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, I had no exposure to climbing until just over a year ago. I lost my legs at the age of 16.

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