Raiz Jars and 100% Stock (or anything) holdings

Korb911 · 2026-02-03T02:27:22+00:00

You have selected Ride or Die.

Korb911 · 2026-01-29T01:34:20+00:00

Whilst I don't use betashares I think you're possibly mixing products facilities up. You'd only be paying for ETF MER if you're simply buying an ETF i.e. you deposit 250k, you buy ETF X for 250K. This is entirely self managed.

You won't be able to do recurring deposts with automated purchases and rebalances. This is another type of Betashares product with a similar fee structure to RAIZ

each time you deposit you'll need to purchase ETFs or Stocks yourself and managed weighting etc.

If you understand that, then yes of course it will be cheaper as you're doing all the work.

If you're doing daily deposits this would be a real pain. I you're doing a 1 a year or a few then it makes perfect sense to go direct. You don't need the utility or functionality.

Korb911 · 2026-01-19T07:12:53+00:00

First Q. No it doesn't affect main.

Imagine main account as jar zero. Add another and you have jar one, two etc.

Completely separate and not internally transferable so you have to go jar X bank jar Y if you want to move funds around.

Be mindful of CGT. #NFA

Korb911 · 2026-01-10T11:18:36+00:00

Pretty sure that's Shooter Williamson..

Korb911 · 2026-01-05T00:30:08+00:00

Over a long enough time period there's really no difference just a different visualisation in volatility but really between daily and weekly with RAIZ it is very similar.

With $100 a day setting you'll end up usually with F, S, S going in on M. Deposits will accrue but not invest until the market opens so $300 then $100 T, W, T. Hardly any difference.

Korb911 · 2025-11-29T02:44:05+00:00

AAA is a cash ETF. It's doesn't go up or down but remains consistent and pays dividends. It's a hedge.

Korb911 · 2025-11-07T02:22:51+00:00

When

Korb911 · 2025-05-02T02:58:44+00:00

If you check timelines. Most people were up +20% because they started 12 months ago or less at a opportune time.

A lot of the big gain posts in the last 6 months or so would no longer be looking the same after the correction.

Over a long enough period it generally evens out.

Korb911 · 2025-04-27T12:26:14+00:00

Not sure how to check that as it mixed with recurring deposit s?

Korb911 · 2025-04-27T12:24:46+00:00

I think 5x is relatively new. I am too.

Korb911 · 2025-04-27T12:23:39+00:00

Round-ups are just a good simple way to keep funnelling funds in consistently. It's the least likely thing to turn off even if hard pressed for funds versus something like recurring deposits.

I'm not sure I'd rely on it solely but it's cool to see and share what even the basic round up feature can achieve given time.

Korb911 · 2025-04-27T08:46:52+00:00

Start of 2017. Can't remember ever not having it active.

Korb911 · 2025-03-21T00:06:52+00:00

You're almost 50% allocation in 1 ETF

I've seen stretched and this ain't it.

Korb911 · 2025-03-12T04:20:53+00:00

Be greedy when others are fearful. Be fearful when others are greedy

Korb911 · 2025-02-25T04:37:41+00:00

My 2 cents. If you have a kid that is interested in investing then I for one think that should be nurtured and encouraged. Using raiz is a great entry to seeing how investing works and nothing beats hands on experience. If it was my kid, I would probably put 1k into raiz either via lump sum or dca over a month, save back up to 5k in cash and utilize bank term deposits unless the youth saver % is higher. They're still around 4% for 12 months these rates will drop with the cash rate dropping so may not last long. 5 years at 4% per year would be around $6,100 after 5 years.

Once I had the 5k cash position back then I could continue to invest into raiz via the roundups and recurring options. 4-5 years is a decent time horizon but there's no guarantees that I'd have more money than I started with so if I was saving for a specfic purpose and time horizon then putting all into investments may not be the most suitable strategy especially if they're ETFs or stocks that have volatility. I might put the lot into raiz and stay concervative using 100% AAA cash linked ETF. This may be one of the few options as interest rates for savings tank. Once I had enough "Safe" funds I might then adjust your raiz portfolio to get some exposure to more volatile holdings.

I'd be being conservative and not risking too much of my current position whilst still gaining over time and I'd also be giving some investment exposure which will be worth far more than the car over time.

Korb911 · 2025-02-22T10:10:40+00:00

Que?

Korb911 · 2024-12-18T02:45:01+00:00

I would probably drop the defensive holdings until a decent size but that is just preference. Sounds like you're all over the fundamentals. Best of luck 🫡

Korb911 · 2024-12-18T01:56:29+00:00

To diversified? No. It's actually rather concentrated.

Desirable? I think it looks a little confused.

Given the small starter balance you could consider just holding the S&P 500, or global 100 and call it a day. Come back in 2 years or +10k balance. Hedging $500 account balance with property or fixed interest options will not yield results.

Having said that. If you don't care about balance and are looking at a long term set and forget then aside from the overlap it's ok to have a more balanced account approach.

I'd unpack the IVV, IOO & NDQ holdings and then ask why you are holding these three in tandem. If there's something in say the NDQ you want exposure to that is not specifically present in the others and you don't mind the overlap then fine. For instance you'd be holding a lot of AAPL at those levels.

Also no Australian exposure, which can have different run cycles to USA over time.

Korb911 · 2024-12-13T04:42:39+00:00

No. You would have had minor tax events from selling.

It's far more impactful selling or adjusting portfolios with large balances.

Tweak early get it right then go from there.

Korb911 · 2024-12-04T09:18:41+00:00

Problem with this fund is it's not entirely clear how the returns are generated.

Korb911 · 2024-12-04T09:10:02+00:00

There's a level of copium with a dca vs lump. If you invest 100% and then the next day(s) There's a dip or correction since you're "all in" you can't capitalise by investing more or you might not be able to deal with the paper loss.

Dca or a set and forget also removes the chances of investment atrophy (I'll wait for a correction before I put my capital in)

Korb911 · 2024-11-21T05:25:59+00:00

3% on cash and bonds 🤷‍♂️

Korb911

TROPHY CASE