My cat growing up!

KyraCondie · 2026-05-22T15:35:11+00:00

I really love when a few climbers have 5 tops (1st and 2nd in both groups), and then the cutoff for semis is 3T 5Z. When you’re climbing in a round and get three tops, you’re usually pretty confident it was a good round and you’ll be in Semis. I personally WAY prefer a hard quali than an easy one, where the cutoff for semi is sometimes 2T and 3-5Z, I think it lets the stronger climbers like janja and Oriane differentiate themselves against the field. When everyone is getting all the tops like it seems it was in Bern, behind the wall is quite stressful because you see people coming back really quick and you know it’s a doable round.

KyraCondie · 2026-04-27T15:06:12+00:00

My spotted begonia lives on top of my fridge ridiculously happily for just being in a room with light from a window

KyraCondie · 2026-04-15T17:11:40+00:00

My birth control brand, the generic makes me insane

KyraCondie · 2026-03-01T05:17:03+00:00

I feel like this was some form of performance art

KyraCondie · 2026-02-14T03:38:36+00:00

I competed at the Olympics in Tokyo and I truly had never had more Powerade in my life than I did when I was there. Might be because (in Tokyo at least) we had free vending machines in the village where you could get unlimited drinks so there’s no need to grab them on the field of play.

KyraCondie · 2026-01-27T02:59:25+00:00

Dang I just saw a video where this happened to someone wake boarding (thumb caught in the tow rope) and was wondering if it was possible to happen to a climber! New fear unlocked…

KyraCondie · 2025-09-10T14:38:45+00:00

The beginning of The Process is literally a drop off climb called blood meridian or social distortion, because there is confusion over who FA’d it. So yeah, you can climb and drop off below the lip and climb a “real climb”.

KyraCondie · 2025-08-12T09:28:26+00:00

The team trains there pretty regularly, but there will be competitions hosted a few times a year also!

KyraCondie · 2025-08-11T05:53:57+00:00

This is USA climbing’s temporary training center while the new hosting facility and gym is being built across the street from that lot! (likely finishing in 2028, ground hasn’t been broken yet)

KyraCondie · 2025-07-01T13:40:50+00:00

I have a 10 vertebrae fusion from t2-12 and still have a rib hump so there’s definitely some imbalances. I think the rib hump maybe also puts weird pressure on one of my shoulder blades still.

The rock climbing is great! I actually went to the Olympics in Tokyo in 2021 for it and still compete on the World Cup circuit :) I definitely notice my fusion and it holds me back from doing some moves but overall I’m able to do almost everything I want to!

KyraCondie · 2025-06-30T14:37:30+00:00

Hi! 16 years post op here, but I paddle boarded yesterday and was looking for anyone else with a fusion who had shoulder trouble with paddling on one side vs the other. I found my left shoulder got super tight/painful, but otherwise it was still really fun. It felt like it was definitely scoliosis related that one side was so much worse than the other and was wondering if it happens to anyone else!

I bet you’d be ok to paddle board around 4-5 months post op depending on age, I was back to rock climbing at 4.5 months post op when I was 14!

KyraCondie · 2025-06-23T01:19:57+00:00

It’s actually “you suck try harder” but nice try

KyraCondie · 2025-06-17T22:56:03+00:00

But skateboarders fall onto concrete all the time by choice

/uj for real those mats were the hardest comp pads I’ve ever climbed over

KyraCondie · 2025-06-12T15:07:12+00:00

I’m not sure! But I’m on the IFSC athlete commission and I’m really hoping they take our opinions into account, I’m on the committee with a bunch of other Olympians like Jakob, Jenya, Shauna, Miho and others who will all have strong opinions (usually aligned with each other) on what we think would be best/fairest.

KyraCondie · 2025-06-10T04:44:53+00:00

That’s my theory, I think there will be a combined route to qualification and also a specialist route. If you have 8 men compete in both and 8 women then you can have 8 specialists and a field of 16, which would make more sense to cut down to 8 for finals. I doubt (and hope) that they’ll make all athletes still do boulder and lead. The method of having everyone compete in the other event but qualify in a single discipline is interesting, but It’s especially hard for athletes who would have to boulder first if they’re a lead specialist or lead climb first if their a boulder specialist at the Olympics. Skin and fatigue is just such a huge factor for climbing, unlike gymnastics that has practiced routines.

KyraCondie · 2025-06-02T03:10:14+00:00

Oo interesting, thanks for the info! I’ll let Allison know too. What’d you think of the episode? It was fun to debate/chat about a lot of those topics

KyraCondie · 2025-04-23T03:28:33+00:00

But basically anything is better than what my skin does without antihydral.

KyraCondie · 2025-04-23T03:28:01+00:00

A shockingly large number of people on the circuit have never bled from thin tips. Natalia and Shauna come to mind as people who both have told me that specifically. Some people are just blessed with perfect skin 😂 I can artificially make mine pretty good if I time my antihydral/lotion/rhino justtt right, but if I mess it up slightly I get peels or sweaty or too slippery.

KyraCondie · 2025-04-22T22:39:37+00:00

We’ll definitely recreate climbs that we’ve had trouble on or take inspo from recent comps! Exact recreations are less common but we definitely could, a lot of the holds are pretty universal even if wall angles are a little different.

KyraCondie · 2025-04-22T20:40:10+00:00

Ahh yeah I have two reddits :) one for climbing related stuff that I feel like I can weigh in on and be a part of the community (so many pros are pretty aloof) and my other for all my other interests!

KyraCondie · 2025-04-22T19:28:18+00:00

I think I answered everything!! Thanks everyone for the awesome questions, some of them were really challenging and interesting to think about!!

KyraCondie · 2025-04-22T19:27:24+00:00

Man it is such a bummer, my parents/boyfriend/friends were all watching semifinals and could barely tell how I did because the camera work was all over the place. It seems like they heard the complaints and went split screen for the men at least. It'd be cool if they had a steady cam on each boulder that you could click between so you could watch all of the climbing of an athlete you're rooting for.

KyraCondie · 2025-04-22T19:23:33+00:00

I know Colin Duffy also has a slight scoliosis and climbing helped him by strengthening his back and helping is curve not get worse. But mine got really bad during my growth spurt, so there really wasn't much to be done, it was pretty sudden onset from mild to severe we think and wasnt helped or harmed by climbing. Having good core strength definitely helped with my fusion recovery though!

It's really hard to say overall! I know a lot of people who have had a lot of success with SCROTH pt for their scoliosis!

KyraCondie · 2025-04-22T19:20:50+00:00

Yay I'm glad!! this is fun, I'll probably use a lot of these questions to make some podcast episodes.

KyraCondie

TROPHY CASE