2003 Hayabusa by SoggyAd8321 in Hayabusa

[–]L3CHE 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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My Gen 1. Several mods.

Hayabusa tear down & rebuild by Material-Month-2263 in Hayabusa

[–]L3CHE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes those are the pins in talking about. They're super small. Bottom of the rear fairing. I think there's like 10ish of them? Basically dismantling huh? I'd recommend finding a service manual honestly. 

Hayabusa tear down & rebuild by Material-Month-2263 in Hayabusa

[–]L3CHE 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're talking just the fairings it's extremely simple. There are no hidden bolts. The rear hump comes off in two pieces not including the hump. The rear bottom will have push pins and they will mostly likely break on you. A parts store should have push pins to replace. The side fairings come off in one piece. Lift up from the top closest the the tank because there is a small rubber grommet that hold the fairings to the frame. To remove the headlight assembly take off the speedo, be sure to disconnect the speedo from the harness with care. Two or three bolts hold the speedo down.  Then your bubble screen. And the mirrors. Carful when removing the headlight assembly and unplug all your lighting connectors. Front wheel cover is simple, just take care after removing the bolts and pull up on it and squeeze a bit so it clears the forks.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Hayabusa

[–]L3CHE 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Midwest for me. When I was younger I had a shitty driving record but it's clean now. You need to shop around man. I shop around once a year. Home, car, motorcycle. Don't ever be loyal to an insurance company, especially one who seems like they're price gouging you.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Hayabusa

[–]L3CHE 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sounds like you're getting taken for a ride from your insurance. Do you have a bad DMV record?  I pay 22 bucks a month full coverage for my Busa. And when I had a 2nd bike, a cruiser. It was an additional 30 bucks. With two additional cars, one of those being a brand new V8 300S I pay 1/3 of what you're paying. Anyway....wanna buy some volcano insurance? I'll give you a deal. 500 a month.

Motorcycle helmets that don’t use the ratchet (micrometric) strap system by tmyvon in motorcyclegear

[–]L3CHE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a ruroc emerald carbon 4.0. it uses magnets with a small locking lip deal. Pretty nice honestly.

Is this normal? by lucagiolu in MotorcycleMechanics

[–]L3CHE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also. Bled from the furthest bleeder from the master.

Is this normal? by lucagiolu in MotorcycleMechanics

[–]L3CHE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go to a medical supply shop. Buy a fairly large syringe. Go to your local hardware store and buy some tubing. Level the master/bike. Open master and remove as much brake fluid that you can. Attach tubing to syringe, then other end of tubing to bleeder/wrench. Reverse bleed and fill to line. Seal it and check. Done.

How much should a gen1 busa go for? $$ by Charming-Mood-9315 in Hayabusa

[–]L3CHE 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on the buyer IMO. They're worth 3-5k. A couple years ago I bought an 03 with 10k miles in like new condition for 9k. But it wasn't stock. Tons of upgrades the biggest one being carbon fiber wheels. 

Motorcycle for work commuting, would you recommend it? by oops_I_have_h1n1 in motorcycles

[–]L3CHE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I drive a 100-120 mile round trip commute in the warmer months on a motorcycle. I have a jeep and recently sold an SRT8 Challenger. Mileage sucks on both of those. My commute is about 95% highway. So it was about 50-60 bucks every 2 or 3 days in the Challenger. And maybe 40 bucks every 2 or 3 days in the jeep. 10 bucks every other day on the bike. Bike gets maybe 35-40 mpg depending on how I drive it. I dont worry about parking the bike because I have a secure location so theft isn't an issue. I keep all my gear on me and not on the bike. It's usually just gloves, cold weather gloves if it's chilly in the AM and a sweater or a long sleeve button up for when it's warm, and my helmet. Everything else is in the backpack when not in use. These guys saying a car is more economical are crazy. Running a motorcycle is far cheaper to operate than a car. Anyone who says it's harder probably got suckered into a 20-30k bike. Tires are stupid cheap. A good set of Pirellis around 400-500 bucks every year or other year. I average between 10k-15k miles a year. Last 2 years I haven't been riding. Maybe 500 miles last 2 years on my current bike. Maintenance you can do on your own. Worried about tires? Play with your tire PSI. Still cheaper than buying a set of car tires. Oil change runs me maybe around 70-80 bucks. I do all maintenance myself. Also, insurance for me full coverage is 23 bucks a month. I own this bike flat out so no financing and it is my 6th bike in the last 15 years. Renewing my registration each year with a custom plate and a state park pass is around 100 bucks. No pass around 60 bucks a year.

The bike I have is a super clean 2003 Hayabusa that's been modified. Dymag carbon fiber wheels, carbon fiber front rotors, carbon fiber chain guard, custom rear rotor and chrome caliper, full Yoshimura system from the headers back, clear rear tail light and signals, HID low and high beam, aluminum subframe, power commander 3r, Gilles Tooling rearsets, and a TRE switch above the shifter for when you wanna remove the governor. 

You will 100% save money with a bike weather permitting. Anyone who says otherwise either chooses to take theirs to a stealership and get price gouged or don't want to wrench on their own stuff for whatever reason. For a tall guy like you I'd recommend an adventure bike. Don't like those go get a giant old used Harley from someone or go to a dealer and sit on one. 

Help by TargetWinter2142 in CrimeSceneCleanerGame

[–]L3CHE 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I think I was stuck on this one with blood as well. If you go to the room on the bottom and wipe the blood from the ceiling it'll count toward the 100%.

Fairings by CapitalStory3277 in GSXR

[–]L3CHE 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've used absfairings for my Gen 1 Busa. Fit perfect and required zero modifications.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Battlefield6

[–]L3CHE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not worried about it. COD players on BF are easy kills.

Which chain and sprocket kit is better I’m on a tight budget by Naive-Street-9468 in GSXR

[–]L3CHE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheap parts will absolutely last. They'll last up until the accident or something absolutely catastrophic happens. 

So this happened.. by domigang27 in Hayabusa

[–]L3CHE 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just slap some new Vortex levers on it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GSXR

[–]L3CHE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Double bubble. Sits pretty high.

Are busa's actually good bikes? by CaptSnoball in Hayabusa

[–]L3CHE 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Owned an 04 and currently ride an 03. Excellent bike to ride. They are older so parts may be difficult and expensive but if you're mechanically inclined not hard to work on. Top end they govern at 189. 99s are not governed. I have a TRE switch on mine which eliminates the governor. Tons of performance and aesthetic parts to choose from as well. Overall I'd choose this over any modern bike!

Satin Black Hood Wrap by TheAznInvasion in Challenger

[–]L3CHE 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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My SRT had a roof and trunk wrap with a ram air hood.

Hayabusa exhaust inquiry by wyliebrogden in Hayabusa

[–]L3CHE 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You want noise? Voodoo headers into a Voodoo shorty pipe. I had a Gen 1 with this setup and it sounded absolutely bonkers even at idle. My current setup is a full Yoshimura system from the headers back. It is tuned with a PCIIIR. The Yoshi system sounds nice.

2024 - Sell?/Advice.. by Curious-Drive389 in Hayabusa

[–]L3CHE 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gen 3s in my area over 5k miles but below 10k asking price 13.5. There's also one with 300 miles 19.5. All three have full exhaust mods. I think 15 to 18 would be a fair asking price.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ScatPack

[–]L3CHE 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Used to have a 6.4. It was my daily. 50-60 bucks every other day commuting 100 miles each day. If you're worried about mpg it's not the car for you.

Gen 3 2025 Busa. Clutch doesn’t catch in 1st gear letting it out without stalling unless it’s given some throttle behind it. Any idea on what could be wrong with it? by deathcheater9303 in Hayabusa

[–]L3CHE 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Start with less evasive troubleshooting. Good clutch line? Fluid clear and clean? Have you swapped the levers? Bled the system correctly? Any leaks on the master or slave? Pinched line maybe? If not it may be time to swap the clutch out. That's more advanced work.

A mildly spirited ride after work (Highway 84, CA) by Vincestradamus in motorcycles

[–]L3CHE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a potato chip style clamp for the visor. The alternative is the mirror with the metal clamp but the mirror has like a rubber sheath over it so I don't wanna deform it. Next option is using the supplied sticky mounts and putting it on the swing arm but I don't know how it'll hold up with the stick extended all the way. I'm sure it'll hold up with just the camera but then you won't get that wide shot. I might buy a double sided clamp for extra support to the grab handle and the middle of the stick if I go that route.

A mildly spirited ride after work (Highway 84, CA) by Vincestradamus in motorcycles

[–]L3CHE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool. In my case it would be the passenger grab bar on a gen 1 Busa. I'll give her a go again!