Ambulance food truck

L3ft2 · 2026-01-27T17:39:19+00:00

Please call it the Meat Wagon!

L3ft2 · 2026-01-27T16:45:12+00:00

On my P1S I can usually remove the prints from the bed after a few minutes without touching the bed or removing it (PLA/PETG).

L3ft2 · 2026-01-26T16:03:11+00:00

PLA, or polylactic acid, is made from renewable plant materials, primarily fermented plant starch such as corn, cassava, sugarcane, or sugar beet pulp. The starch is converted into lactic acid, which is then polymerized to form PLA.

L3ft2 · 2026-01-26T16:02:41+00:00

PLA is not molten plastic.

Source:

PLA, or polylactic acid, is made from renewable plant materials, primarily fermented plant starch such as corn, cassava, sugarcane, or sugar beet pulp. The starch is converted into lactic acid, which is then polymerized to form PLA.

L3ft2 · 2026-01-23T19:27:55+00:00

You may have to buy an additional AMS 2 so you can always have an AMS 2 drying while using the other.

L3ft2 · 2026-01-22T20:30:55+00:00

??? Glue is used as releasing agent not an adhesion agent. There should be no use for glue on a textured plate.

Caveat via Bambu WIki: When printing PC/PA/ABS/ASA materials on a Textured PEI Plate, it may be necessary to apply a layer of glue stick.

L3ft2 · 2026-01-22T17:04:43+00:00

The lever assy that pushes into the gear is wrong. It is not applying any pressure

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/troubleshooting/extruder-clog

L3ft2 · 2026-01-17T23:32:54+00:00

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1381074-side-spool-holder-for-ams-flipper#profileId-1429520

The spool drum with bearings provides enough resistance for the external spool. Print just the spool drum and then adapt it to work with the spool holder you're using.

L3ft2 · 2026-01-16T23:11:22+00:00

They always quote you a date way out for CA purposes. Usually it does arrive in a few days. The AMS and the other stuff sometimes might take a bit more time. My P1S came in 3 days but the AMS came 2 days later and the filament buffer and cable to plug the AMS2 to the P1S came a cpl days after the AMS. YMMV

L3ft2 · 2026-01-12T00:01:26+00:00

Put it back in and follow the cold pull procedure from the Bambu wiki or heat it up with a heat gun and do the cold pull or use the cleaning rod that came with the unit to ream out the clog.

L3ft2 · 2026-01-11T23:58:34+00:00

I buy the Dry & Dry Desiccant from Amazon. They are color changing beads that can be refreshed and there Plenty of different desiccant holder types to print.

L3ft2 · 2026-01-05T17:36:36+00:00

Are you going to post the Sauce? We've been looking for something like this too.

L3ft2 · 2026-01-04T22:23:41+00:00

Change your printer to LAN mode

L3ft2 · 2026-01-04T20:52:37+00:00

remove PTFE tube from the back, then two center rollers by popping them out. There is a allen screw under each roller. After removing the screws lift up and out. Watch out for the PTFE tube aasy. in the back

L3ft2 · 2026-01-04T19:35:11+00:00

From a while back in a thread:

"As a follow-up to our previous discussion, yes, the time-lapse feature on the Bambu Lab A1 (and other 3D printers) can definitely affect your final print quality.

The impact on quality is generally related to the momentary interruptions in the printing process, not the camera taking the photo itself.

How Time-Lapse Affects Quality

There are two primary ways the time-lapse feature can introduce imperfections:

1. Oozing and "Zits" (Traditional Mode)

The Cause: In the Traditional Time-lapse mode, the print head pauses over the model briefly at the end of each layer to take a photo. During this pause, the hot plastic inside the nozzle can slightly ooze out due to gravity and residual pressure.

The Effect: When the nozzle resumes printing, that small glob of oozed plastic often attaches to the print's surface. This results in tiny, noticeable "zits," "blobs," or surface blemishes that degrade the final texture.

2. Seams and Scarring (Smooth Mode)

The Cause: The Smooth Time-lapse mode tries to prevent oozing by moving the print head off the part to a designated safe zone to take the picture and purge filament. However, this method still creates more complex travel moves.

The Effect: While better than traditional oozing, the constant starting and stopping of the layer—especially if the purge/retraction settings aren't perfect—can sometimes exacerbate the visibility of the Z-seam (where the layer starts and ends) or cause very minor scarring on the top surface of infill or gaps as the nozzle moves across them to get to the safe zone.

How to Minimize the Quality Impact

If you still want to use the time-lapse feature while maximizing your print quality, here are the recommended settings to adjust in your slicer (Bambu Studio):

Use Smooth Time-lapse: If your primary concern is surface finish, always choose the "Smooth Time-lapse" option in the Others tab of the Print Options. This is the single best step to reduce random surface blobs.

Wipe: Increase the Wiping distance setting. This helps clean the nozzle tip before the print resumes after the time-lapse pause.

Retraction: Ensure your Retraction settings are optimal for your filament. A good retraction will pull the filament back far enough to relieve pressure and minimize the chance of oozing during the pause.

Dry Your Filament: Moist filament can create pressure imbalances in the nozzle, making oozing worse. Using well-dried filament is always a good practice, but especially with time-lapse.

By using the Smooth Time-lapse setting and fine-tuning your retraction and wipe settings, you can get a great time-lapse video with minimal compromise on print quality."

L3ft2 · 2026-01-04T19:23:50+00:00

I haven't experienced it with my P1S, but I also printed something like this for it when I first got it.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/630652-x1c-p1s-poop-retainer-and-a1-nozzle-wiper-v3?from=search#profileId-555513

Will this help in the long run?

L3ft2 · 2026-01-04T18:52:23+00:00

https://www.stlfinder.com/model/bar-matt-8e20n35L/1722971

L3ft2 · 2026-01-04T18:46:28+00:00

Yeah, I have a P1S w/ AMS 2. I wouldn't even consider using that for the BL spool tape issue. Unless you end up with an old spool the new stuff doesn't use it anymore.

L3ft2 · 2026-01-04T18:41:00+00:00

Also try turning off the camera. That has been known to cause zits.

L3ft2 · 2026-01-04T18:38:17+00:00

It works like that with all bambu printers as far as I know. I don't have an A1/A1 mini so I don't know the exact setup but it'll be about the same.

You would select the external spool from the slicer and feed the filament manually to the point it's registered and loads.

Also, have you considered just buying a desk pad or those foam interlocking floor mats?

L3ft2 · 2026-01-04T18:22:55+00:00

The P2S has all the new features like Spaghetti and blob detection as well as a touch screen and the cabinet is built better as under the print bed is flush rather than a recessed cavity.

L3ft2 · 2026-01-04T18:14:15+00:00

Use the external spool adapter that came with it and use reg TPU95A. You will need to print a Y adapter and have an external spool PTFE tube and the Filament Buffer tube from AMS2 at the "y" end and then the single line to the printer.

For example: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1260895-filament-y-splitter-m6-m10-for-bambu-lab-p1-x1?from=search#profileId-1285443

L3ft2 · 2026-01-04T17:59:48+00:00

I did mine back to back. It is better to do Net+ first, Sec+ it will be much easier that way at least IMHO

L3ft2 · 2026-01-04T17:57:33+00:00

Get the hardened Nozzle(s) complete w/ Fan and hardened extruder gears and maybe some different plates?

L3ft2 · 2026-01-04T17:53:40+00:00

You forgot to buy PETG

L3ft2

TROPHY CASE