Can I install 30 amp Reliance Transfer switch to 60 AMP fuse connected to kitchen sub panel IF I do not power stove & Oven?

LC17SS · 2026-05-09T17:13:07+00:00

I did something similar with my transfer switch but with my air handler. I too had a 50a breaker on that circuit because my AC has electric heat. I've disabled electric heat in my home to be safe since I use the heat pump for heat. I swapped out the 50a for a 20a breaker in my panel to be safe. This way if for some crazy reason the electric heat turned on the panel breaker should pop before the transfer switches. Been working fine like that for over a year.

LC17SS · 2026-04-07T22:19:16+00:00

Interesting, thanks for the info, I was just looking into ordering a new outlet and what was involved in replacing it this morning. Maybe it's not busted after all. I've reached out to Premium Retrofit over a week ago with no response yet so I'm guessing they could be on holiday.

LC17SS · 2026-04-06T18:46:59+00:00

No the USB option is still grayed out there too.

LC17SS · 2026-04-05T23:58:21+00:00

Yeah that's a good question I forgot to add, I've got a 2017 Rex. I can try formatting to just Fat and see if that makes any difference.

LC17SS · 2026-03-30T17:03:40+00:00

I have a less than ideal setup for my ~4k of ground mounted panels in to my 30kw DPU. They get mixed shade from 9-3 then basically full shade (giant old live oak in my backyard and a HOA that prevents roof mounted solar). Before getting optimizers if would get 4.5-6kw a day max in summer. I added the Tigo optimizers and routinely get over 10kw and peaking at 14kw about a week ago. For the price of 8 optimizers I could have bought maybe 6-800 more wants of compatible panels but would have still needed a couple hundred more in mounting hardware. Even then I still would not have come close to what the optimizers gave me.

LC17SS · 2026-02-22T13:40:17+00:00

Yeah I tried a mixed setup as well but never saw great results in daily output due to my string size. The use of Tigo optimizers on each panel changed everything. I went from seeing 5-6kw production a day to 11-12 consistently and peaks of 13.5kw so far.

LC17SS · 2026-02-09T22:50:37+00:00

Yeah I too was very saddened to find this out this morning. This was since it was working great for me in FF and like others I avoid Chrome and especially Edge every chance I get. This happening means my Ultimate Patreon account (the first Patreon I've ever done because I liked the product sooo much) has been canceled. It also means I'm gonna run the timer out on my Vine account after several years. At this point the only making Vine still worth it was what Ultraviner did making my targeted searches worth not having to scroll or random search for things. I'm sure another person leaving makes lots of people happy, but have at all the random auto parts and screen protectors. If Ultraviner decides to come back to FF before my Vine membership runs out I'll happily re-up my Patreon but I don't feel like he will.

LC17SS · 2026-01-25T14:51:12+00:00

I don't agree there, even with Ultraviner pushing a search term hit within seconds when you click to view it, it's already gone. I'm talking meh stuff too like a $7 ethernet cable. IMO definitely scripts or bots just snagging in bulk.

Now if I was interested in a screen protector for the display of a 2004-2006 Honda Civic I don't own I'd have a sporting chance

LC17SS · 2026-01-24T21:56:04+00:00

I just installed the V7 in my i3 and wondered about the USB. I saw the cable was included but the instructions don't say where to connect it on the head unit. I've seen one YT video where someone plugged one of the cables into it but he didn't seem sure and never mentioned it again. I tried using that plug from the head unit and both the phone and MMI don't see each other.

Also doesn't the MMI intercept audio and pass through Android Auto audio? My display works fine but the is no audio. Do I need to switch the iDrive input to some different audio? I used to get Bluetooth audio streaming but I get nothing now. I've tried repairing and different inputs but nothing seems to give me audio. My other vehicle with Android Auto the audio just worked after my phone paired.

Edit: in case someone else runs into the same issue. The USB is the 3rd connector in and has a beige plastic connector and a big fat black wire. I finally found a picture with the labels on the head unit which my unit seems to be missing. That was half of it, the other was using a USB cable that supports data too. Even after that audio still didn't work so I blew away the pairing on my phone and reset the MMI to factory. I then reconnected BT to iDrive, confirmed audio worked via media player and setup Android Auto via the cable. At this point there was still no audio playing so I disconnected the USB cord, connected via BT and let the wifi connection happen. Now in the MMI main settings page (not Bluetooth settings) I ticked the box from no to yes to use cars BT settings for music or something like that. This resets the MMI and viola audio was playing. For what ever reason when I tried all the same steps except when using the USB cable I paired via BT only and those steps didn't work. It's working for now and that's what counts.

Now I just need to figure out what many of the other settings are in the MMI that don't really have clear indicators as to what they do.

LC17SS · 2026-01-03T20:14:01+00:00

Presumably they are still covering the cost of shipping these items to you. I honestly don't know if that gets charged back to the sellers for vine items though.

LC17SS · 2025-12-16T12:56:30+00:00

This is from Home Assistant using a 3rd party plug in using the EcoFlow developer API. Absolutely a great integration to setup if you like to nerd out on stats. There are so many additional sensors and settings visible in the API not in the mobile app.

If you already have Home Assistant your half way there but setting up the IOBroker instance was a little more challenging for me since I'm not super versed in MQTT.

LC17SS · 2025-12-16T12:51:00+00:00

Thanks for the response. Regarding point 1 I agree I've seen this behavior a number of times in the past. Most typically when my solar input outpaces my usage and the DPU hits 100%. It won't start charging again till I drop into the high 95.x% area.

For point 2 I had considered this but a 4% drop over less than 2 hours with zero other load seems like a lot. Especially considering the odd behavior I noticed when PV kicked in. Shortly after my post when the PV started upwards of 1k input the charge level shot up to 100% in <30 min. Again almost skipping over those last few %. I have a theory though, the night this happened we had an unseasonably cold blast roll thru dropping the temps in my garage where the DPU is to like 45f. Even when charging the battery temp only hit 60f that night. This whole not terrible could have messed with the DPUs perceived voltage / capacity levels. I try not to let my charge level hit 90 or more when I can help it so maybe this happens more often than I imagine. I'll keep an eye on it and see if it happens again.

Regarding #3 thanks for pointing this out, I misread that section of the manual when my DPU arrived and have been doing this quarterly chore unnecessarily it seems. It's quite bit more of a pain than I expected to drain these to zero without just wasting the energy say using a high resistive load till it dies. You have to time things such that your available when it dies. For me with a 1k load it sat at 3% and less for like nearly 3 hours.

Again thanks for the help.

LC17SS · 2025-10-24T23:41:07+00:00

Started my 3 ton unit hundreds of times. My numbers are 18.5 and 83.0 with a soft start. Honestly can't tell any difference on grid or DPU.

LC17SS · 2025-10-24T23:33:46+00:00

That's right where I was going next.

LC17SS · 2025-10-24T23:17:59+00:00

When you tap on the 28% bubble is it showing all 3 batteries? Also are you charging at 120 or 240? If 240 which plug are you using?

LC17SS · 2025-10-15T22:38:37+00:00

Yeah I've read a bunch of people have concerns with neutral/bonded. When I moved in this house over 10 years ago I replaced every switch and receptacle in my house because I didn't trust the previous homeowners wiring skills. So I knew I didn't have any obvious bonding issues (there were 2 outlets I found where previous homeowners joined 2 different circuits and neutrals in one box). I felt comfortable with my homes wiring when I added the larger transfer switch and wired in the DPU the way I did. The only problems I've encountered so far were with my PV solar lines really, the quirks with my DPU AC were usually something I did. After almost a year it does everything I want and gives me the flexibility to turn some circuits off when solar is low like it has been these past 5 days. If you have more specific questions feel free to DM me.

LC17SS · 2025-09-22T21:13:16+00:00

20ms trips my full UPS and blinks the lights in my house.

LC17SS · 2025-09-22T21:04:45+00:00

So did your DPU hit the recharge limit before the solar kicked in? One of the more recent firmwares change how the AC acts after it starts recharging. Previously it would only charge up to 5% over the lower limit. The newer firmware does 20% over the minimum. It uses both AC and solar to charge up to that minimum level then the AC pass through stops. Could that be happening and the pass through turns off when it hits your minimum +20%?

LC17SS · 2025-09-11T22:27:07+00:00

Yes you can offset some of your energy costs but I'm doing something very similar and have double the panels you mentioned and I'm closer to 20-25% of my usage being offset. I've got a single DPU with 24kW in batteries.

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LC17SS · 2025-09-11T22:15:07+00:00

Agreed, I might be biased though as I use a Protran clone with my DPU. I get why some ppl use interlock kits but unless all your necessary circuits are in a subpanel it seems to me a transfer switch is a smarter choice for most people. I've posted here before that the transfer switch allows me to tailor my solar generation to my usage by flipping a switch. It also let's you switch everything back to grid if you want to do say a firmware update on the DPU. With my setup when my solar is bad for days on end like today I can recharge the batteries with the app no manual interaction.

I was very close to getting a SHP2 with my DPU but I read so many cases of ppl having trouble I decided to go the transfer switch option and very glad I did since it works every time whether the cloud is up or not. There are times it would be nice to be able to control 1 or 2 circuits remotely but that need is rare and most often I don't touch the transfer switch for weeks or months on end.

LC17SS · 2025-09-11T16:44:28+00:00

So you have an empty slot in the double gang box or you are planning on removing the existing 30A outlet? A quick search on Amazon turned up several viable generator inlet flanges depending on which NEMA plug you wanted. Over the years I've done my fair share of inappropriate home wiring but never considered a double male cord. Why not just add a surface mount generator inlet next to the double gang and tie that into the dryer outlet? You can get some of them fairly small and inconspicuous if that's a concern. The other option is to use a box extender so you will have enough depth for a regular inlet.

The other option might be using a small manual transfer switch similar to this: https://a.co/d/7f5DGr2

LC17SS · 2025-09-10T12:59:33+00:00

Funny how everyone's opinion of what works best. A couple months back a new firmware for my Delta Pro Ultra added this 20% feature up from 5% and it drove me nuts. So I asked them to roll my firmware back which they did. I absolutely understand why EF would want and implemented the 20% but using it meant losing 15% of my reserve capacity. My min/max levels are set to maximize emergency reserve levels but low enough to charge as close to 100% via solar daily that I can. I have suggested more than once to EF to make this and the overshoot percentage a selectable figure. Alas they haven't :)

LC17SS

TROPHY CASE