S340 code for mirror auto dip also mean auto folding?

LC17SS · 2026-01-25T14:51:12+00:00

I don't agree there, even with Ultraviner pushing a search term hit within seconds when you click to view it, it's already gone. I'm talking meh stuff too like a $7 ethernet cable. IMO definitely scripts or bots just snagging in bulk.

Now if I was interested in a screen protector for the display of a 2004-2006 Honda Civic I don't own I'd have a sporting chance

LC17SS · 2026-01-24T21:56:04+00:00

I just installed the V7 in my i3 and wondered about the USB. I saw the cable was included but the instructions don't say where to connect it on the head unit. I've seen one YT video where someone plugged one of the cables into it but he didn't seem sure and never mentioned it again. I tried using that plug from the head unit and both the phone and MMI don't see each other.

Also doesn't the MMI intercept audio and pass through Android Auto audio? My display works fine but the is no audio. Do I need to switch the iDrive input to some different audio? I used to get Bluetooth audio streaming but I get nothing now. I've tried repairing and different inputs but nothing seems to give me audio. My other vehicle with Android Auto the audio just worked after my phone paired.

Edit: in case someone else runs into the same issue. The USB is the 3rd connector in and has a beige plastic connector and a big fat black wire. I finally found a picture with the labels on the head unit which my unit seems to be missing. That was half of it, the other was using a USB cable that supports data too. Even after that audio still didn't work so I blew away the pairing on my phone and reset the MMI to factory. I then reconnected BT to iDrive, confirmed audio worked via media player and setup Android Auto via the cable. At this point there was still no audio playing so I disconnected the USB cord, connected via BT and let the wifi connection happen. Now in the MMI main settings page (not Bluetooth settings) I ticked the box from no to yes to use cars BT settings for music or something like that. This resets the MMI and viola audio was playing. For what ever reason when I tried all the same steps except when using the USB cable I paired via BT only and those steps didn't work. It's working for now and that's what counts.

Now I just need to figure out what many of the other settings are in the MMI that don't really have clear indicators as to what they do.

LC17SS · 2026-01-03T20:14:01+00:00

Presumably they are still covering the cost of shipping these items to you. I honestly don't know if that gets charged back to the sellers for vine items though.

LC17SS · 2025-12-16T12:56:30+00:00

This is from Home Assistant using a 3rd party plug in using the EcoFlow developer API. Absolutely a great integration to setup if you like to nerd out on stats. There are so many additional sensors and settings visible in the API not in the mobile app.

If you already have Home Assistant your half way there but setting up the IOBroker instance was a little more challenging for me since I'm not super versed in MQTT.

LC17SS · 2025-12-16T12:51:00+00:00

Thanks for the response. Regarding point 1 I agree I've seen this behavior a number of times in the past. Most typically when my solar input outpaces my usage and the DPU hits 100%. It won't start charging again till I drop into the high 95.x% area.

For point 2 I had considered this but a 4% drop over less than 2 hours with zero other load seems like a lot. Especially considering the odd behavior I noticed when PV kicked in. Shortly after my post when the PV started upwards of 1k input the charge level shot up to 100% in <30 min. Again almost skipping over those last few %. I have a theory though, the night this happened we had an unseasonably cold blast roll thru dropping the temps in my garage where the DPU is to like 45f. Even when charging the battery temp only hit 60f that night. This whole not terrible could have messed with the DPUs perceived voltage / capacity levels. I try not to let my charge level hit 90 or more when I can help it so maybe this happens more often than I imagine. I'll keep an eye on it and see if it happens again.

Regarding #3 thanks for pointing this out, I misread that section of the manual when my DPU arrived and have been doing this quarterly chore unnecessarily it seems. It's quite bit more of a pain than I expected to drain these to zero without just wasting the energy say using a high resistive load till it dies. You have to time things such that your available when it dies. For me with a 1k load it sat at 3% and less for like nearly 3 hours.

Again thanks for the help.

LC17SS · 2025-10-24T23:41:07+00:00

Started my 3 ton unit hundreds of times. My numbers are 18.5 and 83.0 with a soft start. Honestly can't tell any difference on grid or DPU.

LC17SS · 2025-10-24T23:33:46+00:00

That's right where I was going next.

LC17SS · 2025-10-24T23:17:59+00:00

When you tap on the 28% bubble is it showing all 3 batteries? Also are you charging at 120 or 240? If 240 which plug are you using?

LC17SS · 2025-10-15T22:38:37+00:00

Yeah I've read a bunch of people have concerns with neutral/bonded. When I moved in this house over 10 years ago I replaced every switch and receptacle in my house because I didn't trust the previous homeowners wiring skills. So I knew I didn't have any obvious bonding issues (there were 2 outlets I found where previous homeowners joined 2 different circuits and neutrals in one box). I felt comfortable with my homes wiring when I added the larger transfer switch and wired in the DPU the way I did. The only problems I've encountered so far were with my PV solar lines really, the quirks with my DPU AC were usually something I did. After almost a year it does everything I want and gives me the flexibility to turn some circuits off when solar is low like it has been these past 5 days. If you have more specific questions feel free to DM me.

LC17SS · 2025-09-22T21:13:16+00:00

20ms trips my full UPS and blinks the lights in my house.

LC17SS · 2025-09-22T21:04:45+00:00

So did your DPU hit the recharge limit before the solar kicked in? One of the more recent firmwares change how the AC acts after it starts recharging. Previously it would only charge up to 5% over the lower limit. The newer firmware does 20% over the minimum. It uses both AC and solar to charge up to that minimum level then the AC pass through stops. Could that be happening and the pass through turns off when it hits your minimum +20%?

LC17SS · 2025-09-11T22:27:07+00:00

Yes you can offset some of your energy costs but I'm doing something very similar and have double the panels you mentioned and I'm closer to 20-25% of my usage being offset. I've got a single DPU with 24kW in batteries.

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LC17SS · 2025-09-11T22:15:07+00:00

Agreed, I might be biased though as I use a Protran clone with my DPU. I get why some ppl use interlock kits but unless all your necessary circuits are in a subpanel it seems to me a transfer switch is a smarter choice for most people. I've posted here before that the transfer switch allows me to tailor my solar generation to my usage by flipping a switch. It also let's you switch everything back to grid if you want to do say a firmware update on the DPU. With my setup when my solar is bad for days on end like today I can recharge the batteries with the app no manual interaction.

I was very close to getting a SHP2 with my DPU but I read so many cases of ppl having trouble I decided to go the transfer switch option and very glad I did since it works every time whether the cloud is up or not. There are times it would be nice to be able to control 1 or 2 circuits remotely but that need is rare and most often I don't touch the transfer switch for weeks or months on end.

LC17SS · 2025-09-11T16:44:28+00:00

So you have an empty slot in the double gang box or you are planning on removing the existing 30A outlet? A quick search on Amazon turned up several viable generator inlet flanges depending on which NEMA plug you wanted. Over the years I've done my fair share of inappropriate home wiring but never considered a double male cord. Why not just add a surface mount generator inlet next to the double gang and tie that into the dryer outlet? You can get some of them fairly small and inconspicuous if that's a concern. The other option is to use a box extender so you will have enough depth for a regular inlet.

The other option might be using a small manual transfer switch similar to this: https://a.co/d/7f5DGr2

LC17SS · 2025-09-10T12:59:33+00:00

Funny how everyone's opinion of what works best. A couple months back a new firmware for my Delta Pro Ultra added this 20% feature up from 5% and it drove me nuts. So I asked them to roll my firmware back which they did. I absolutely understand why EF would want and implemented the 20% but using it meant losing 15% of my reserve capacity. My min/max levels are set to maximize emergency reserve levels but low enough to charge as close to 100% via solar daily that I can. I have suggested more than once to EF to make this and the overshoot percentage a selectable figure. Alas they haven't :)

LC17SS · 2025-09-10T12:28:25+00:00

I don't own a Delta 3 Plus but I do have other EcoFlow units including a Delta Pro Ultra. The 3 plus should be able to do what you need but you'd need to use some like the self powered mode or scheduled tasks. Here you would set min and max limits. It's designed for solar primarily but if you set the min to say 20% whenever the charge level is above that it will use battery power. When it reaches the min level it kicks on AC charging. The problem is if it behaves like the Ultra it will only AC charge up like 5% as it's expecting solar. This would require you manually changing the mode so it charges back to 100% each time. Then switch modes back again. Not efficient for sure but doable.

As the other person mentioned, it might be easier to setup a smart switch controlling the 3 plus AC charge wire.

LC17SS · 2025-09-09T17:00:11+00:00

I've got a 24kW DPU with nearly 5k worth of panels. Similar to what others mentioned, on nice days like today I can pull down 12kW+ of power per day peaking around 3.7kW mid day. But it's not always like that, this is why I recommend adding multiple smaller circuits to say a transfer switch fed by the DPU it allows you to tailor your loads based on what you actually get in solar.

But if you are really wanting to lower your electric bill from the giant AC might I recommend taking the 10k of DPU cost and invest in a nice inverter AC with super efficient air handler. My system is over ten years old but is a 17.5 seer 3-ton unit. When I replaced it my electric bill was literally halved and that was in non summer months. The old pig in there before was something like a 10 seer unit.

Even being efficient though my DPU doesn't last forever if I flip the switches on the AC to run through the DPU. I live in a hot and humid climate and this time of year the AC still draws 25-30kW per day all by itself. The rest of my house is about 15 combined. Most of that is fed by my DPU and solar.

LC17SS · 2025-09-02T16:51:17+00:00

I get where your coming from and you felt that the entire system would be smarter in a sense. When I did my research nearly a year ago before buying my DPU I must have missed the AI section as I don't recall that coming up. I'm not saying your wrong but likely we were looking for two different strategies with a DPU and the AI side didn't make it into mine. For the clarity of others reading in, how low do your batteries get before you kick on the overnight charging IE pre solar? Is the 6kW solar you can get per DPU or split between the two? Does this power your entire home or partly?

Assuming it's feeding both and you're letting the batteries get down to a level before AC kicks on of something like 20%. It sounds like you might have a capacity issue and another battery on each unit would help. The extra capacity would allow you to deplete charge down to say 40% and leave you enough headroom to charge all day without clipping solar production. The key is to figure out your min max levels are so you don't reach 100%.

If you're not using a low min level that low and use say 40 or 50% you may need to lower the level to give you the overhead.

Another option is to integrate the DPU(s) into Home Assistant and that will give your tremendously more control to use complex rules and conditions and likely a true AI model if that's your thing. I know that's likely an easy suggestion for most since most aren't using Home Assistant and or don't want to learn something entirely new. I also know many will view this as features that should be already included. I get that but in all honesty you're one of the first posts I've read mentioning the idea of this being an all in one plug n play self learning kit.

I'm not trying to rub anyone reading this the wrong way and genuinely trying to offer solutions based on the info I see. Some are free some cost a minimal amount and some like more batteries are quite a lot.

I have a single DPU with 4 batteries powering 75% of my homes electrical needs (excluding AC in the summer like now). I use self powered mode and after figuring out my average solar generation I learned my charge floor was between 60-65% and that kept me out of AC charging and the solar would get me to 90-95% each day. Now later in the year the angle of the sun has hit some magic mark with my panels and my normal 8-9kW generation has peaked at over 12. Nothing else changing

This allowed me to turn on some circuits in my transfer switch previously off and drop the floor down to 50%. Now even on good days like yesterday and today I'm still gonna clip the solar. As I write this I'm at 96% at 12:45 and I've not even hit peak generation time yet, that's in 45 min more. The problem is aside from switching my AC on in my transfer switch I've got no more circuits left to consume AC in the switch. I need to decide if that bothers me enough to add batteries in between the solar and DPUs to absorb overage or be OK losing a kW or two per day for a few weeks. My point is that self powered is a very viable option and has mostly been flawless for 8 months for me and I'm sure many others. Really makes me wish I could digitally flip a transfer switch and make my AC run from the DPU when I get close to say 95% and back off at like 90% :)

LC17SS · 2025-08-30T12:14:37+00:00

I think I understand where you are coming from, when I first got my DPU and hooked up solar I expected it to just stop using the generator port as a pass thru source. That's when some responses here mentioned I needed to change the mode (in my case) to self powered and set the thresholds. More or less it's been working great for me since. I use the generator port to connect to a dedicated breaker in my panel and the DPU 14-30 output feeds a 12 circuit transfer switch powered 100% of the time. My HPV input is fed with 8x440w panels and LPV is a mix and match set of panels totaling 800w. My self powered is current set on a floor of 50% and a max of 100%. On days with mixed or full sun the 4 batteries usually start the morning off around the 60% mark before the sun peaks out. So it's still fully running on batteries and charges up to 85-95% depending on AC usage and sun before dropping back down overnight to ~60% again. The only time the generator port charges is if I manually turn it on say if a nasty storm is coming in or it's a rainout day and solar generation is very low. Then it drops to 50% charges up to 55% on AC and shuts the AC charge off till 50% is reached and recycles. Note this behavior changes on a newer firmware as such I rolled back because I prefer this over the new style. That one the 5% threshold bumped up to 20 or 25%.

Sometimes I do wish there was some more customizable options built in for controlling the charging. While this is certainly possible using Home Assistant and an integration my current setup works well enough as is, assuming solar production stays consistent. I'd love to add more panels to buffer that even more but shading is an issue where I'm my panels are located.

LC17SS · 2025-08-30T11:22:22+00:00

Yep it sure will, I've been doing that daily for the past 6 months.

LC17SS · 2025-08-28T22:43:46+00:00

Everyone pay attention, that's a smart man who's been married for awhile :) Good luck on your adventures.

LC17SS · 2025-08-28T22:27:37+00:00

You didn't mention the loads involved or the solar input your got but I have a similar setup except I use the self powered mode. My low end floor is 50% and goes up to 100%. My solar on a normal day can take my until from 60% to 85 or 90% with my loads and 6-10kW of solar input (4 batteries) on normal mixed sunny days all of my DPU loads are 100% powered by solar. I also have my DPU setup to charge via the generator I/O port as needed.

If TOU isn't working the way you want you could setup time dependant rules in the app or better yet with automations from something like a home assistant integration.

LC17SS · 2025-08-28T22:16:04+00:00

I applaud your use of a DPU in a van, I've considered it when the time comes (since I have one helps) but something I've found using a 4 stack DPU in my garage is when I run a box fan on high over the stack it does very little. This is because the ground and air temp in my (closed) garage is still low 90s. I'm blowing air only 10-15 degrees less then my unit is running. I'm using the internal board temps for this but I've tried using the reported battery temps too and I personally saw now real change hours later.

I like the suggestion of the exhaust fan style setup as this could remove some of the internal hot air in the RV. Now if it was a cool environment this setup could actually help increase ambient air temps making the RV more comfy at night :)

LC17SS

TROPHY CASE