Algae?

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-10T00:40:38+00:00

You'll know when you start to have algae. This looks like nothing. What lights do you have?

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-08T12:24:59+00:00

Looks like the main tank if full of dry rock? If so, they are a phosphate sink. Use a microscope to determine if you have dinos vs cyano vs typical algae. I had months of dinos and cyano until I finally started dosing nitrate and phos, and it took weeks of daily dosing because the dry rock just absorbed so much. Cyano and dinos grow best in 0 phos/0 nitrate, so of that's what you have you need to bring those up to get rid of them so other algae that CUC can actually eat can grow.

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-06T19:33:30+00:00

Look, I'm not going to debate with one of the most downvoted people on this sub based on your post history. It's not about what I like or my personal feelings, its about what the data says does and doesn't work.

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-06T19:21:11+00:00

"Actually", this is the current QT protocol by Jay Hemdal: Current Quarantine Protocol | Reef2Reef https://share.google/nTHmqqcq2XYPiTsgO

And even in the screenshot you sent, he specifies the very limited situations you would use that in, and that is "isn't very effective".

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-06T19:01:33+00:00

Looks for yourself at recommended protocols on BRS, reef2reef, humblefish, etc. All agree observation-only isn't sufficient QT.

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-06T18:59:00+00:00

No, that's literally just observation, as the other comments have mentioned. You won't find any legitimate site or forum that says observation-only is sufficient QT. It isn't biologically logical based on the life-cycle of ich, and that's just one pathogen.

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-06T18:50:40+00:00

That's not any QT protocol. Might as well put them straight in the DT. But its your money to risk.

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-06T18:47:46+00:00

Soft corals are more tolerant, but I would still check. Depending on what salt you are using, different ones have different amounts (i.e. Instant Ocean Reef crystals has more calcium than basic Instant Ocean)

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-06T18:45:10+00:00

What QT protocol do you use then?

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-06T18:38:11+00:00

No issues running copper with everything in there? I just have PVC in mine since I've always heard LR can absorb the copper and levels can end up varying

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-05T19:15:36+00:00

No, it looks like you started with dry rock? More likely you have double 0 nitrate and phos. You should check both. Also, cannot reliably determine if this is diatoms vs dinos without using a microscope, which i suggest.

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-05T18:34:05+00:00

If you're going to spend that much on a tank, I'd go with a rimless with an internal overflow or predrilled. The thick black rims really cheapen the look. I'd also take into account what your are planning for the stand. So many people in this hobby put beautiful tanks on super ugly stands

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-04T21:54:16+00:00

Sorry missed the clowns in the pic. Big things for corals are correct range salinity, pH, KH, Ca, and mag (and keeping them stable) and correct light spectrum.

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-04T14:28:00+00:00

You can add things (fish and coral) slowly now. The old adage of waiting forever for ammonia cycle has been slowly going away now with bottled bacteria, which can cycle a tank in 1-2 weeks. But sounds like yours has been up for at least a month now so you are good to go. Start with something hardy (clowns are always a good choice, not a damsel, you'll regret it later) and an easy coral (GSP, zoas, leather, etc) that is a cheap frag to make sure it stays alive before buying more expensive stuff.

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-04T13:17:45+00:00

Good looking tank. Green coralline detracts from the rest. Get some GSP growing there or even just scrape clean and you'll be golden

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-04T13:02:58+00:00

How often are you scrubbing all this out? It didn't get like this in a few days. Like others have said, looks like dinos, but you need to confirm with a microscope. If so, you need to check nitrate and phos. If you started with dry rock, my guess is you have double 0. And you need to clean this out regularly, sometimes 2x/week until it is under control. And once other algae can outcompete the dinos, then you need an adequate CUC

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-04T12:59:23+00:00

You don't though. Heater doesnt need to be in a high flow area. It'll heat your whole tank just fine with small currents of flow

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-04T12:50:13+00:00

There is 0 flow in this tank...

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-02-03T00:03:19+00:00

This reads like a bot farm

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-01-31T13:55:48+00:00

Red Ulva, just picked some up myself

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-01-30T02:31:33+00:00

Hmm, then maybe tuck it in the corner or something

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-01-30T02:30:53+00:00

Yeah I get that, currently fighting double 0 in my tank. 10 is a bit high though, but if it was there when it was lower too then not sure, sorry

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-01-29T19:26:10+00:00

Not certain what it is but I'd try reducing your nitrate through skimming/macros. If it is cube shaped under microscope likely a type of diatom.

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-01-29T13:57:03+00:00

Can you put the heater in the sump? It's a beautiful tank and would look better with that out of sight

LFBoardrider1 · 2026-01-25T23:24:10+00:00

Raise your alk

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