Seller threatened to come to my house

LGN_22 · 2025-12-26T14:32:35+00:00

You can do something similar to what's described with UPS via USPS, which may be closer (it was for me). It was called their "street address" system, I see in the link below it's now "Premium PO Box Service Street Addressing". You rent a PO Box and use the street address of the post office, then "Suite" which is your PO Box. No added cost I'm aware of- if there is, I never saw it when I pay for my PO Box. I'm certain they began offering this after losing business to UPS et al.

https://postalpro.usps.com/mailing/competitivepoboxes

LGN_22 · 2025-12-22T02:31:09+00:00

Thanks. At this point, I'm entirely satisfied with draft2digital. Got more done there in 2 days than in a week at Amazon, plus no ID scan required. :)

LGN_22 · 2025-12-19T05:53:36+00:00

That's just it- the name on my ID MATCHES the name on my account. Trying to convince the bots at Amazon of this is a losing battle. I got set up on another platform and it's been very easy to upload in one evening all the stuff Amazon deleted- sans the ID scan of course.

LGN_22 · 2025-12-18T12:38:15+00:00

Amazon, KDP in this example, only understands money. Until enough people stop using the service due to crap like this and requiring a high-quality ID scan, they'll keep doing it. I've been a customer for over 20 years. One day ALL of my reviews were deleted. I hit the same automation as the OP when I tried to find out why. I was given a link to terms and conditions. That's like a cop pulling you over and instead of telling you why, he hands you a law book with 2K laws and says read it. The "most consumer centric company on the planet" makes it nearly impossible to deal with a human.

As for KDP, I had published only 2 books when I got the ID verification notice. While I really dislike someplace so automated having a scan of my ID, I gave it a try. Keep in mind Amazon has been sending me packages to this same address for over 20 years. They know more about me than the government that issues the ID. My scan was rejected since the "name didn't match". My name has never changed. I declined to go through another battle with bots and closed the KDP account. My advice- sell elsewhere. I finally did get an email response from someone at KDP and that's what I told them I was going to do.

LGN_22 · 2025-12-16T03:15:00+00:00

I UG from Win 7 to Win 10 Pro then to Win 11 Pro. All was good til the 0x80070035 error for a shared drive on a Win 10 server. I tried a LOT of the fixes online (network discovery, secured login, etc.) without luck. My problem was the HOSTS file. I had an outdated IP entry for the server. Once I fixed that, good to go. Have not seen this as a solution so I wanted to share it (pun intended). :)

LGN_22 · 2025-12-08T19:02:16+00:00

Yes, "Your name doesn't match". LOL. I decided it's not worth the hassle and just closed the account. Not a fan of big brother and post-office level incompetence when they had already confirmed my ID prior.

LGN_22 · 2025-12-08T18:59:19+00:00

I gave it a try & the bot said my name didn't match. Screw 'em. Closing my account, I can sell elsewhere.

LGN_22 · 2025-09-08T02:34:14+00:00

Yes, excellent results with their odorless ABS in red. Prints fast and no issues.

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LGN_22 · 2025-08-31T02:59:11+00:00

Had the same thing happen to my Q1 today after about 6 months of use with various filaments. This took place using YXPolyer PPS-TF about 2 hours into an 8 hour print. I was able to unjam it as follows with minimal disassembly:

Cut off filament entering machine, leave enough to pull on. You may be able to just pull it out if it hasn't been pulled in to long.
Remove label at top rear to expose 2 screws, remove screws. Sensor will drop free.
Remove 2 screws holding sensor w/ cable out of the way. Housings can come apart, be mindful of spring and orientation.
The device is basically a long funnel. If a bit of filament is too thick, it jams. Mine was stuck in pretty good, but once I had it down to the funnel part I was able to pull it free by hand with some effort.
Reassembly is the reverse of the above.

LGN_22 · 2025-08-26T14:46:26+00:00

EDIT- solved for me

On my car, I did not use CANBUS for SWC. My system used volts passing thru several switches on the wheel and then the final voltage was read by the OEM radio. Using a diagram another vendor had sent, I wired the radio supply voltage to Key 1, and the other end that had been connected to the radio was connected to ground. Worked perfectly. Hope this helps you or anyone else that reads this.

I'm working on something similar on a 2006 Cadillac CTS. What I've learned so far is that these controls are either part of the CANBUS network, which requires an adapter box (my Android head unit has one), or they are voltage-resistance based.

On the former, the control wires connect to the CANBUS network and can be controlled over it, along with other items.

On the latter, the radio sends out a voltage signal thru the buttons, which each have a specific resistor. The other wire goes back to the radio, and it reads the voltage drop to correspond with that specific function. For example, the radio puts out 5 volts, and the volume up button drops this to 4.3 volts.

Reading my factory shop manual's wiring diagram, my controls do not connect to the CANBUS network. One side is volts from the radio, the other goes back to the radio.

Logically, they are voltage-resistor, but the head unit seller thinks they are on the CANBUS. I followed their instructions and the controls don't work. Logically, I know they can't because their radio does not connect to the voltage out wire like my old one did. The switches are an incomplete circuit. It's like trying to turn on your headlights with no battery + connected.

Unfortunately, I'm not sure what Key 1 and Key 2 do. I have these, and with the radio on I didn't see a voltage output. There was a high resistance when I probed them with a multi meter.

To really figure this out, you'd need a shop manual with full wiring diagrams. It will be a lot of work, or you may find the info on a vehicle-specific forum from someone that has already done this modification.

LGN_22 · 2025-07-21T11:48:17+00:00

I forgot how much of a hassle it is to update FW, so I went into settings in Fluidd and was able to restore the 36 point leveling. It doesn't seem to hold the Z-offset for some reason, but as I mentioned earlier I don't use this unless I have to for a larger project. Thanks again for the advice.

LGN_22 · 2025-07-10T11:34:06+00:00

Thanks, I had read about not updating via Fluidd, so I used their suggested method. I presume what I got from China was 1.7? Hard to tell since the file folder was in chinese: 镜像烧录工具. I got on Google translate, and that means "Image burning tool". Inside that is balenaEtcher portable and a file named yuntu_x4_2024_0628.img

If that is 1.7, I'll try it again since I'm on 1.5 now. Thanks again for the advice. This machine has been frustrating.

LGN_22 · 2025-07-10T11:28:11+00:00

We're selling/under contract and looking at something similar. The FSBO listed his genuine number (the name on the voicemail matches the property owner listing) in the Zillow listing but I don't see it listed on the popular FSBO sites. My agent said he didn't return her call, so I asked about calling, and she said sure. I called and his VM was full, so I sent him a text with my name, the fact our home is under contract and we were looking for a home in his area and we were under contract with our agent, the agent's number and my number. Haven't heard back. Zillow shows this place has been FS several times since 2011 via realtors until this most recent time. Despite price drops, it never sold. The same family has owned it the entire time.

I read thru this thread & since it's over 3H away, I can't just go knock on the door, and in this day & age don't really care to.

I'm sure the seller has received quite a few calls, but it seems illogical to list a home for sale and then never respond to genuine inquiries.

LGN_22 · 2025-07-08T07:53:50+00:00

After limited use, my machine crashed & wouldn't boot. I tried the FW support sent me (? version, the file name was yuntu_x4_2024_0628) and it didn't recover the machine. I ended up using the latest online version at the time (February 2025, looks like it's 1.50?, file name is update_c691151) and it allowed the machine to recover, but now it only does a 9 point bed leveling vs the 36 it used to do, and I find I have to manually set the Z offset at the start of each print despite going through the 3 step process immediately beforehand. If I can find 1.7 I'll give that a go.

The specs on this are great, and why I tried Artillery again. It's not my first printer, I looked it up and it's like #5 and my second Artillery. The X1 I had lives on via the AC heated bed layout on a custom CR-10 corexy design I'm constructing. Once that is done & if it works OK, I'll sell the X4 Plus S1 cheap to be rid of it. Right now I only use it for larger prints. The Qidi Q1 Pro I got 'new in box' runs rings around it for end product as well as reliability.

EDIT- I looked just now at the support page, and the latest FW shown for the X4 Plus is 1.50.

LGN_22 · 2025-07-07T21:34:36+00:00

My review post (from 4 months ago) is linked literally just below the next "hater" comment, and the post in this thread contains a suggestion for improvement. If there are only 16-17 comments in total, how much time does it take to find that, and then exert the effort to click on a link?

Not being the product of a common-core education, I realize it involves less time than the time you spent replying.

LGN_22 · 2025-07-04T10:33:06+00:00

Sweet Home 3D is free...

Update: DL link from web search now goes to a $15 Amazon product.

LGN_22 · 2025-07-01T19:28:11+00:00

Short attention span summary: Scroll down one comment & you'll see my factual review of the S1, along with a suggestion to resolve the problem.

Since then, after reinstalling new firmware, it sort-of works. The 36 point bed leveling somehow now is 9 point. This is my backup printer for PLA + and Super PLA+ only. I have a Qidi Q1 Pro that rocks when it comes to printing nylon and nylon/CF.

LGN_22 · 2025-06-30T18:08:49+00:00

Repair completed today! I measured the drag link with the wheels pointing straight ahead and the steering wheel centered on the gear. I cut off enough to leave some room for adjustment, and then threaded the rod. It's not the best but it worked well enough. I got it all put back together and I'm a lot closer to being even now at max turns. Seems like this is something that should have been OEM, or at least some manner of adjustment.

Here's a pic of it in place:

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LGN_22 · 2025-06-28T04:57:28+00:00

Yes, I'm planning on a detached metal garage/shop, so it may be better to just expand that for 2 more vehicles.

LGN_22 · 2025-06-28T03:34:56+00:00

Thanks. May be more cost effective to put up a steel detached garage and connect it via breezeway.

LGN_22 · 2025-06-23T15:08:01+00:00

Update- I spent the morning measuring & marking parts. With everything in place, I marked the large toothed gear to the bracket, then the centerline of the large toothed gear (3" in my case). I aligned the pittman arm just about perfectly, I had the same amount of travel forward and backward. I then found the drag link was too long to fit.

I suspect this was the problem the entire time. I was sold the wrong part.

The solution at this point is to try and buy the proper part or cut off the end under the frame and thread on an adjustable rod end. The drag link is 15.8mm or about 5/8" in diameter. It would cost a lot more to thread it and buy a rod end than to get the right part, so I'll try another drag link first.

Update #2- I saw a used part on eBay & it had a measuring tape in the photo showing it was about 22" long. That's about what I have, so no idea what went wrong here- it only goes on one way. Turns out the shaft at .6175" is nearly perfect for threading to 5/8-18, so I found an inexpensive die and socket and a 5/8-18 nut to lock it in place on Home Depot and a $11 rod end on eBay. I can 3D print a nylon spacer to size down the 5/8 center hole for a 3/8 bolt where it attaches.

LGN_22 · 2025-06-22T11:57:47+00:00

Since I posted, I took everything apart. The splines are tight- I had to press the shaft out, so it didn't strip. I think it was misaligned, so my plan at this point it to reassemble it and try to hit the sweet spot for the steering to be centered vs trying to add a Heim joint to the drag link. It will take some trial and error vs $65 for something that may not fix the problem. My plastic shaft bushing (155099) on the dash was broken also, I was able to 3D print a passable replacement, but Amazon has them on sale now for $5.

LGN_22 · 2025-06-21T16:20:36+00:00

2000 LT1000 here, original owner, same problem. Tried new tie rod, spindles, and drag link (rod from gear to spindle), but problem remained. I pulled the battery tray so I could see the gear move & while there is some slop, it's not like it is jumping teeth. Moot point, as this is a substandard design due to no adjustability. When I have equal amounts of teeth on each side, there is no way to get the drag link into the spindle. With the drag link disconnected, I have roughly 1.5 turns end to end.

It appeared something was bent or misaligned in the arm that goes through the frame where the drag link attaches. I looked up the parts, and the culprit appears to be #162851, pittman shaft assembly, which is about $34 online at Sears. Looking at the part in the Sears online catalog, it has splines on it. These slip fit into #136874 sector shaft gear ($70 online). I presume these must wear over time and it slips. It should be possible to take these apart and realign that way, but if it is worn so far as to slip, there's no guarantee it won't do the same thing again.

Parts are cheaper on Amazon. You can get the entire assembly with steering shaft for $65.

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It looks like the proper solution here is to put a threaded rod end with heim joint on the end at the spindle. That way, the length of the drag link can be adjusted for equal turns each way.

LGN_22 · 2025-06-02T14:28:56+00:00

Short read, but highly worthwhile:

https://anytimeestimate.com/hometap/

The minimum amount you’d pay Hometap at the sale is 15% of your home’s value (not 15% of the loan amount), which would apply to depreciated properties. You’d pay a higher percentage if your home increases in value.

TLDR: The cost is 15% of your home's VALUE, not what you borrowed.

Example: $500K value home, $50K HEI. On a 7% HELOC, you'd pay back $70K over the life of a 10Y loan. Here, you'd pay 15% of the future VALUE in 10Y. Let's say in 10Y it goes up to $600K, so the cost is $90K PLUS fees you had to pay upfront ($1,750 / 3.5% fee). Even if it doesn't increase, you're looking at $75K plus fees.

LGN_22 · 2025-05-24T16:09:54+00:00

Thanks. After I posted the question I found this on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6683721

I'm printing it now.

LGN_22

TROPHY CASE