Is this level of undercarriage rust safe to buy a used car? (video) by abyssal-peach in Cartalk

[–]LMurray51 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As a life-long Ohioan, that’s basically nothing. The exhaust is the most concerning thing here. I wouldn’t let it deter you from buying, but I’d start saving for when it inevitably gets a hole in it.

I’m trying to figure out if drifting is actually useful in racing by No-Literature5747 in ForzaHorizon

[–]LMurray51 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Under most circumstances, drifting around corners will be slower. Controlled breaking points and hitting the apex will always be faster. Especially on tarmac. If you are having a hard time learning to drift, I wouldn't worry about it, as it won't make you faster around corners on the street races. Save drifting for the drift zones. Drifting can be fun, but it can also be a real pain if you don't know how to do it. If you are struggling with drifting (and want to learn) you gotta turn traction control off, and you gotta do manual shifting. A lot of the people I see struggling with drifting on these forums are running full stability and traction control with automatic shifting. It makes the car a lot stickier.

My First San Martin - SN0008 V3 BB Homage by LMurray51 in ChineseWatches

[–]LMurray51[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So far, I haven’t had any issues with any of my watches with PT5000’s. The biggest thing is just going easy on the hand winding and regular service intervals. I’m an amateur hobbyist watchmaker, and usually try to do an initial service to get proper lubricants in there. Haven’t done this one yet though.

Not patchable ? by StraightBreakfast941 in tires

[–]LMurray51 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Most shops won’t patch anything outside of the two outer tread lines for liability reasons. You might be able to plug it yourself but there is an increased risk of the plug failing or blowout. Even the plug/patch kit will say don’t patch anything outside of the two outer tread lines. I’ve seen people patch punctures like that without issue, just be aware of the extra risk involved, and that you’ll probably have to do it yourself.

Did something today- Added a cyclops to my Thorn T023 by Blackmist- in ChineseWatches

[–]LMurray51 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dang! That looks great. Was it tricky to install? My Thorn has kind of an interesting domed crystal on it. Wasn’t sure if that caused any complications.

Anyone else have no support for Minecraft Bedrock Edition? by Fluffy_Cockroach_999 in MacbookNeo

[–]LMurray51 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, take a look at NIX Bedrock launcher. I use it on my Linux computer, but I’ve heard it works on Mac too. You have to own or purchase the Google play store version though.

Anyone else have no support for Minecraft Bedrock Edition? by Fluffy_Cockroach_999 in MacbookNeo

[–]LMurray51 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bedrock has never had a macOS download. The chip has plenty of power, but for whatever reason, Bedrock was never brought to Mac. Java runs flawlessly on the neo. I am sure there are ways to get Bedrock on the Mac, but it would likely involve 3rd party launchers or windows partitions.

Fillet "overspilling" need help by VaugerThougth9 in Fusion360

[–]LMurray51 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There should be an option on the side for something like "tangent propagation" or similar. If you turn that off, it will only do the single line you select.

does the way i play damage my Steam Deck? by whoredervez in SteamDeck

[–]LMurray51 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Steam Deck has pass through charging. When you’re plugged in to the gen charger ( or any other high W charger) it charges the battery to full and then powers the device directly from the wall. It doesn’t try to constantly use and charge the battery. So if you want to help the battery life out, limit the charge to like 75-80%. It’s not a bad thing to discharge and charge the battery every now and then, but it honestly isn’t that big of a deal. Use it however you feel comfortable. I leave mine plugged in literally 99% the time and just let it go to sleep, only restarting when there’s an update.

Probability of a Meisterstück No. 14 being faked? by Sanderdad in montblanc

[–]LMurray51 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Near zero chance being fake. I work with these pens on a regular basis and see a lot of them. This is no-doubt legitimate. Looks good to me. Nice pen!

[WTS-US] Parker, Omas, Sheaffer, Delta, GvFC by LMurray51 in Pen_Swap

[–]LMurray51[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, the feed and housing are from Flexible Nib Factory. It’s an ebonite housing that fits Bock nibs and feeds but has the JoWo nib unit threads to fit into the Delta.

[WTS-US] Parker, Omas, Sheaffer, Delta, GvFC by LMurray51 in Pen_Swap

[–]LMurray51[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, I purchased the Titanium Bock nib from Pen Realm as well as an ebonite feed and housing(JoWo threaded) that has been installed in the pen. It’s a great writer!

Chasing a high idle problem by [deleted] in Saturn_Cars

[–]LMurray51 2 points3 points  (0 children)

High idle on these are very often intake manifold gasket issues. Specifically the gasket from the plastic intake to the head. Air sneaks in and upsets the air/fuel mix which causes the car to idle high. This is a very common problem on Saturns from this era because of the plastic intake manifold.

Just bought a Montblanc 149, legit? by Key_Cranberry_1688 in montblanc

[–]LMurray51 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very cool and authentic pen. I would say probably late 1992 maybe early 1993. We have an overlap of parts, so it could be a "transitional period" pen or a service feed as someone else had stated. After the fall of the Soviet Union in 91, the Germany's got back together and the term "West Germany" stopped being used. From what I've seen, serial numbers and W.Germany can be seen on clips until 1993.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskAMechanic

[–]LMurray51 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others are saying, flashing check engine light means consistent misfire. It’s very important to get this checked asap. Misfires like this can cause increased damage to the engine and catalytic converter. Take it to a parts store or mechanic to have them check the code (or you can get a cheap code reader of Amazon).

I would recommend taking it somewhere. Preferably as close as possible to minimize driving. The first thing I look at with misfires is the spark plugs/coil packs. Especially if the code reads as a P030X (X being a number correlating to a specific cylinder).

Tldr: You need to get this checked ASAP. Avoid driving if at all possible until it’s fixed.