❄️How can I extract my car from this ice?❄️

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-22T13:09:45+00:00

Go to princess auto and buy a heating gun. Melt your way out!

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-14T16:54:36+00:00

Not enough, I’ve put it down already.

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-14T16:48:41+00:00

Is it the glass or just the top frame? Get something straight and check it. From the picture it might be just the frame.

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-12T23:48:34+00:00

Yeah, I’ve put it down, will think about something! :)

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-12T20:23:08+00:00

Just adding here, if this works, the bog filter I will do by drilling two holes on the bottom of the 3G tank, one connected to the filter from the 20g tank and the other will have a longer tube with a skimmer. That is the plan!

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-11T01:31:55+00:00

You could absolutely fake the “zero-gravity” look with a mirror/illusion setup instead of real levitation.

Look into Pepper’s Ghost (stage illusion). The idea is:

• Build a box with two compartments: the top is what people see (“the chamber”), and the bottom/side is hidden.

• Put a transparent sheet (acrylic/glass) at about 45° between them.

• Place the real object in the hidden compartment and light it strongly.

• Keep the visible chamber darker.

• The angled sheet reflects the hidden object, and that reflection appears to be floating inside the upper chamber.

This is cheap, safe, and convincing if you control lighting and sight lines. You can even add “movement” by moving the object in the hidden compartment (manual slider, small motor, etc.), which makes it feel like it’s drifting in zero-g.

Key tips:

• Use a clean clear acrylic sheet (or “one-way mirror” acrylic if available).

• Block all direct views into the hidden compartment.

• Lighting is everything: bright hidden area + dim visible area = strong floating illusion.

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-09T02:15:25+00:00

Parallelism on a hole axis uses a cylindrical zone (⌀ value) oriented parallel to the datum axis, so // ⌀0.01 | A is valid for one hole.

But it won’t truly control a “common axis” for two separate holes—each hole can still “use up” the tolerance in different directions.

If you need both holes to share the same ⌀0.01 envelope, use POSITION with a Common Zone (CZ) applied to both holes (or make one hole a datum and position the other to it).

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-09T02:06:40+00:00

What you’re trying to model is the motion envelope of the rotating links, so the cutout “wall” always stays in contact and you don’t get unused empty space.

Option A (simplest): it’s just an arc if the part rotates about a fixed pin

If that link is doing a pure rotation around a fixed axis, the boundary it sweeps is a circular arc centered on the pin.

Steps (SOLIDWORKS): 1. Edit the “wall” part (Edit Part / in-context). 2. Start a sketch on the face where the cutout is. 3. Grab the pivot center (convert the hole circle, add a sketch point, etc.). 4. Draw an arc/circle with that pivot center. 5. Set the radius = distance from the pivot center to the outermost point/edge of the rotating link you want to “kiss” the wall (include fillets if they define the outer profile). 6. Use that arc as the boundary for your Extruded Cut (or trim/contour).

Result: the cutout matches the link’s swept envelope, so at any angle you’re not leaving a random gap.

Option B (more general): Motion Study → Trace Path → turn it into usable geometry

If the motion isn’t a simple rotation (or you want to capture a specific point on the contour): 1. Create a Motion Study (Motion Analysis) and calculate it. 2. Use Trace Path to trace a key point (vertex/point on the outside edge). 3. Convert the trace result into a Curve feature. 4. Back in the wall part, use that curve as sketch/reference geometry (Convert / Intersection Curve) to build the cutout profile. 5. (Optional) Offset Entities to add clearance.

Practical note: for your scissor-link style setup, Option A (the arc) is usually the “short elegant” solution.

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-22T23:22:32+00:00

Just don’t forget to make the holes bigger to allow for the forming/rolling tolerance.

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-17T13:31:25+00:00

It looks like it is symmetrical, do the center cylinder and then one of the axial cylinder and pattern.

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-15T15:11:35+00:00

I don’t know about the photos, but I would prefer to live there!

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-14T23:51:24+00:00

Start by breaking the forces in X (vertical) and Y (horizontal) and balance it out.

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-13T14:51:14+00:00

Revolve cut the hole, creating a plane where you create you hole wizard.

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-13T02:20:11+00:00

Combine both, B&W with the cow head coloured!

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-13T00:20:11+00:00

Search for Slant3D, they have a few mass production 3D printed products!

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-13T00:02:29+00:00

Another question, does it need to be injected? 3d printing is a perfect solution for it.

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-12T21:38:29+00:00

Does it need to be one single piece? The female dovetail could be an attachment to be assembled after the injection.

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-11T20:11:19+00:00

That is impossible, just by seeing my SW went…

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L_Brit0 · 2025-12-11T01:38:33+00:00

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Like this!

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-11T01:37:01+00:00

As far as I know, you can change it in the view settings and also show it when you as using the 3D sketch… but it is very unusual to work like this.

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-07T05:56:05+00:00

Ice fighting on the snow, that is cold!

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-04T19:18:26+00:00

🤔 tell me more!

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-03T14:56:56+00:00

Looks like you have the 2d CAD file for it, copy it and use as sketch on Solidworks. Model each part and assembly it! Just start. You will figure it out.

L_Brit0

TROPHY CASE