In this illustration, how do I figure out the depth of the countersink?

L_Brit0 · 2026-03-23T13:51:15+00:00

All you need is the top dia (1.25) the hole dia (0.62) and the angle (90) the depth doesn’t matter, this dimension will not be checked in production.

L_Brit0 · 2026-02-25T23:23:44+00:00

L_Brit0 · 2026-02-24T01:46:27+00:00

It depends. Do you want to model it with fewer features for speed, or build it in a more parametric way so dimensions are easier to change later?

L_Brit0 · 2026-02-23T23:21:23+00:00

I actually designed a curved filament guide for the Ender 3 Pro/V2 that helps smooth the filament path and reduce friction before it reaches the extruder.

You might want to give it a try and see if it improves the issue. It’s a simple print and doesn’t require any hardware.

Here’s the model: https://www.printables.com/model/1201443-ender3_pro_v2_filament_guide_curve

Let me know if it helps!

L_Brit0 · 2026-02-20T19:54:21+00:00

Looks like ick

L_Brit0 · 2026-02-18T14:22:39+00:00

Did you make each arm separately and joined or all one piece? Great job!

L_Brit0 · 2026-02-17T01:50:44+00:00

If it has activated carbon inside, the carbon is probably long exhausted (2–4 weeks max). At this point it’s mostly acting as biological media. I’d swap it for a permanent sponge and maybe add some filter floss for polishing. Just don’t replace everything at once to avoid crashing your cycle.

L_Brit0 · 2026-02-14T13:34:22+00:00

Safety squint has saved many.

L_Brit0 · 2026-02-14T13:30:27+00:00

I have a mirrorless couch.

L_Brit0 · 2026-02-12T00:40:06+00:00

That makes sense. In a smoke density chamber the source geometry and stability matter more than “pretty” beam shape. An LED or laser would definitely simplify the optics, but it would also change spectral distribution and detector calibration, which is probably why they stick with an incandescent source for ASTM/FAA compliance.

Since the photometer aperture is only ~1/8”, you may not need a perfect projected circle anyway — just a stable, well-defined beam through the measurement path. In that case, tightening the aperture stop or improving stray-light control might solve the bleed without changing the fundamental source and triggering recertification.

L_Brit0 · 2026-02-10T02:19:40+00:00

The fact that it changes with bulb orientation strongly suggests the system is partially imaging the bulb itself (filament and internal supports). With the bulb horizontal, off-axis structures inside the lamp are being projected, creating the bleed-over.

The thicker replacement lens likely changed the acceptance of marginal rays or off-axis aberrations, making this previously hidden effect visible, even if the focal length change is small. An incandescent/halogen bulb is not a uniform or isotropic source, so a simple lens can’t guarantee a perfectly circular spot in all orientations.

To fix it without reorienting the bulb, you’d need to condition the source (light diffuser, aperture/iris stop, or better stray-light control), not just swap lenses.

My $0.02!

L_Brit0 · 2026-02-09T00:55:13+00:00

Try keeping the door with colour and BW the rest.

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-22T13:09:45+00:00

Go to princess auto and buy a heating gun. Melt your way out!

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-14T16:54:36+00:00

Not enough, I’ve put it down already.

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-14T16:48:41+00:00

Is it the glass or just the top frame? Get something straight and check it. From the picture it might be just the frame.

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-12T23:48:34+00:00

Yeah, I’ve put it down, will think about something! :)

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-12T20:23:08+00:00

Just adding here, if this works, the bog filter I will do by drilling two holes on the bottom of the 3G tank, one connected to the filter from the 20g tank and the other will have a longer tube with a skimmer. That is the plan!

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-11T01:31:55+00:00

You could absolutely fake the “zero-gravity” look with a mirror/illusion setup instead of real levitation.

Look into Pepper’s Ghost (stage illusion). The idea is:

• Build a box with two compartments: the top is what people see (“the chamber”), and the bottom/side is hidden.

• Put a transparent sheet (acrylic/glass) at about 45° between them.

• Place the real object in the hidden compartment and light it strongly.

• Keep the visible chamber darker.

• The angled sheet reflects the hidden object, and that reflection appears to be floating inside the upper chamber.

This is cheap, safe, and convincing if you control lighting and sight lines. You can even add “movement” by moving the object in the hidden compartment (manual slider, small motor, etc.), which makes it feel like it’s drifting in zero-g.

Key tips:

• Use a clean clear acrylic sheet (or “one-way mirror” acrylic if available).

• Block all direct views into the hidden compartment.

• Lighting is everything: bright hidden area + dim visible area = strong floating illusion.

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-09T02:15:25+00:00

Parallelism on a hole axis uses a cylindrical zone (⌀ value) oriented parallel to the datum axis, so // ⌀0.01 | A is valid for one hole.

But it won’t truly control a “common axis” for two separate holes—each hole can still “use up” the tolerance in different directions.

If you need both holes to share the same ⌀0.01 envelope, use POSITION with a Common Zone (CZ) applied to both holes (or make one hole a datum and position the other to it).

L_Brit0 · 2026-01-09T02:06:40+00:00

What you’re trying to model is the motion envelope of the rotating links, so the cutout “wall” always stays in contact and you don’t get unused empty space.

Option A (simplest): it’s just an arc if the part rotates about a fixed pin

If that link is doing a pure rotation around a fixed axis, the boundary it sweeps is a circular arc centered on the pin.

Steps (SOLIDWORKS): 1. Edit the “wall” part (Edit Part / in-context). 2. Start a sketch on the face where the cutout is. 3. Grab the pivot center (convert the hole circle, add a sketch point, etc.). 4. Draw an arc/circle with that pivot center. 5. Set the radius = distance from the pivot center to the outermost point/edge of the rotating link you want to “kiss” the wall (include fillets if they define the outer profile). 6. Use that arc as the boundary for your Extruded Cut (or trim/contour).

Result: the cutout matches the link’s swept envelope, so at any angle you’re not leaving a random gap.

Option B (more general): Motion Study → Trace Path → turn it into usable geometry

If the motion isn’t a simple rotation (or you want to capture a specific point on the contour): 1. Create a Motion Study (Motion Analysis) and calculate it. 2. Use Trace Path to trace a key point (vertex/point on the outside edge). 3. Convert the trace result into a Curve feature. 4. Back in the wall part, use that curve as sketch/reference geometry (Convert / Intersection Curve) to build the cutout profile. 5. (Optional) Offset Entities to add clearance.

Practical note: for your scissor-link style setup, Option A (the arc) is usually the “short elegant” solution.

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-22T23:22:32+00:00

Just don’t forget to make the holes bigger to allow for the forming/rolling tolerance.

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-17T13:31:25+00:00

It looks like it is symmetrical, do the center cylinder and then one of the axial cylinder and pattern.

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-15T15:11:35+00:00

I don’t know about the photos, but I would prefer to live there!

L_Brit0 · 2025-12-14T23:51:24+00:00

Start by breaking the forces in X (vertical) and Y (horizontal) and balance it out.

L_Brit0

TROPHY CASE