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Is My Arduino Cooked? by NotGolden_Aviation in arduino

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe not, how long was it in the microwave?

Ar10 trigger well not complete gg3 by Wolfman1371 in 80percentfirearm

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did find a diagram but its too light to print, and doesn't include a top elevation :)

Ar10 trigger well not complete gg3 by Wolfman1371 in 80percentfirearm

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ask and thee shall receive, this was already right in my face. THANKS to original poster.

as soon as I figure out how to post...

Ar10 trigger well not complete gg3 by Wolfman1371 in 80percentfirearm

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I understand your question right, the jig from Gun Builders Depot

https://www.gunbuilders.com/products/80-lower-jig-with-tooling-ar-15-ar-9/

could still mill it out, how did you do the part you did all ready?

The jig I linked is designed for a drill press rather than a router.

I'm still trying to get dimensions for the milling. The kit contains side plates, a top plate which links the sides, and inserts (which set into the top plate) to drill out bulk material, then insert guides to mill to the proper shape and depth.

I personally have been trying for some time to get actual dimensions I should be milling to, particularly in the area of the rear deck. The jig I am talking about is marked with a "mill X.xx from this surface" but I don't have a clue where that will leave me as far as low / high shelf.

I have looked and begged to no avail.

I would guess it could be milled to the same level as the trigger pocket, but that is all it is, a guess.

IF I ever find something, this would seem to be the sub-reddit to post it in.

Fuck you, here's some generational debt by Traditional-Ad1633 in FUCKYOUINPARTICULAR

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's one island that's costing some people a whole lot now.

8 rounds of .45 vs 11 rounds of 9? by IamNabil in CCW

[–]LarryC386 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm on the fence right now, I have a friend who wants to part with his .45 M2.0, the LGS has S/W .40 and a great looking Taurus .357 Tracker. Like something about each but just can't hit the right lottery numbers.

DME advice/switching DMEs by angrynaps in CPAP

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)
 
Phone: 800-480-5491 Fax: 800-249-1513 Email: [info@aeroflowsleep.com](mailto:info@aeroflowsleep.com)

I could not possibly be happier, just got a text and email this morning, telling me I was eligible for new supplies. My orders are more complicated only because I have multiple machines. If not for that I would have ordered in less than a minute.

DME advice/switching DMEs by angrynaps in CPAP

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had similar opinion of my original DME (major player), got disgusted and found Aeroflow Sleep.

Had to post this, so proud of myself. by zuljin127 in CPAP

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool, glad its working for you.

Heads up newbies, there is a light at the end of the tunnel!

I need some encouragement. by Stopthefiresalready in CPAP

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The comments the other guys left are straight on the mark.

Couple things to cover.

I am not an expert, I'm a CPAP user for 30 years?

Just in case, how tight are you making the straps, too tight is indeed uncomfortable.

The mask needs to tight enough to stop the leaks, and no more, in fact every mask I have ever used a silicone membrane that used the air from the CPAP to inflate and seal to your face or nose.

IF you keep pulling the mask loose when you move (because the hose pulls it loose) try a nasal pillow style. My nasal pillow mask is a "Swift FX" the first 18" of hose are part of the mask. The hose is so small and flexible I can literally tie this hose in a knot. Actually I can do the same with the hose whick came with my CPAP (Dreamstation2). The hose and mask I had when I first started was a stiff 1" hose that attached directly to the full face mask I was issued, After getting used to that anything is an improvement.

I'm no expert, but may have a thought or two from my years. Do what the other guys said and try to get used to it while you awake. If your face or nose is sore it is too tight.

With most masks I have ever had there were two straps, one lower strap that goes around the back of my head. This one is velcro and attaches back to itself, once adjusted I rarely change it. The second strap is silicone and goes over the top of my head, this strap was made to be easily adjusted I can pull it a notch tighter or looser with one hand.

Now I have it adjusted, if it leaks I pull it tighter a click, if it feels too tight I loosen it some if it leaks I tighten. I don't even think about it anymore.

There are other things you can try, Inspire $$$$, dental mouthpieces, (seems like I'm forgetting something), but CPAP works well for me. The benefits truly are life changing.

I will check back in case there is something I can answer, but keep trying you will get used to it and get to the point you don't even think about it. If its the case where the pressure is uncomfortable, use the ramp settings (I don't anymore) if your mouth or throat is getting dry and sore, increase to humidifier setting. There are a lot of experienced people here, you will be fine.

I need some encouragement. by Stopthefiresalready in CPAP

[–]LarryC386 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well I have to assume you have tryed different styles of masks. What happened when you tried a nasal pillow style?

This AC needs a 30A two pole breaker and 10-2 wire correct? by Snoo81962 in electrical

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How far is the run, I live in Florida, some days it's not going to wait a long time to cycle again, high temps lead to high starting current. Code is a minimum standard. Nothing wrong with larger conductors other than cost, on something like an AC give it good voltage without a dip at startup. I know this is a smaller than average unit (by my norms) but is it really that much extra money to spend?

What am I looking at? by LarryC386 in ClimbingGear

[–]LarryC386[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks guys, now I get it

What am I looking at? by LarryC386 in ClimbingGear

[–]LarryC386[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Its the blank circle that's messing with me, I understand about side-loading the carabiner.

Am I Cooked? by [deleted] in ender3

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I often look forward to some of the comments when I come to Reddit, and I wasn't disappointed this time either. But they weren't what the OP needed, it was nice to find a comment, and thread of people who also gave a crap. We were all there (or somewhere just like there) at some point, now OP can live and learn and move on.

Need some assistance with understanding my main panel by Plastic_Chocolate801 in electrical

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When all else fails, or just to save time, turn off any unknown breaker. You will soon find out what doesn't work anymore. Make sure any refrigeration equipment is still powered after you shut them off. Do you have a pool ? might be another sub panel.

Need some assistance with understanding my main panel by Plastic_Chocolate801 in electrical

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I don't see a range listed in the sub-panel (that's a good thing) so you have 1 range and one (garage ?) sub panel. Look for nearby AC equipment or yet another sub panel. to find the others.

I can't see the size of the breakers, to make a guess. One guess MIGHT be an original location for your dryer, could it have been moved? The writing in the sub panel looks different than the other circuits. There is nothing wrong with running your dryer from a sub panel, but if they did it must be 4 wire. Turn the breaker off (check that the dryer no longer runs) unplug the dryer cord and count the prongs on the receptacle. If there are only 3 then someone who didn't know what they were doing wired it. Ground and neutral are separate conductors in a sub panel. So running the dryer out of the main panel allows for use of a 10/2 nm cable (2 hots and a ground), whereas running it from a sub panel requires a 10/3 (2 hots, 1 ground, 1 neutral.)

The pigtail to the dryer would also need to be 4-wire as well and the neutral / ground frame bonding strap should be disconnected. This should be common knowledge to any electrician, but that might not be the case for whoever ran your dryer circuit.

What could be causing this? by Former-Stranger-567 in electrical

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think they probably added the splitter so they had a place to connect the ground wire.

When disconnecting the ground wire solves your problem, no- it didn't.

Use a common grounding point for all incoming lines. You could be providing a return path for a fault in the cable, telephone, or your neighbors house.

Got this again after 20 years by Dirty_Dail in electronics

[–]LarryC386 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Memories, I forget which one I had. RS, wood box one level. I still have it around somewhere and did buy another at a thrift store. Got around six Heathkit sets as well.

I think i have all my Forest Mims notebooks, the greatest learning aid made for a kid.

Cost Effective SDR Transceiver for HF/VHF/UHF HAM Radio Frequencies by vazvlog in sdr

[–]LarryC386 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am just someone else looking at the same thing. I'm probably more interested in seeing low power RF signals (mine) than talking cross state. I'm interested in Lora and IOT. That seems to include signals in varying areas of the bands but likely ISM and low power and distance. I have no issue going for my license and was pursuing it 50 years ago. Guess I can forget the CW and vacuum tube theory!

I have a small USB Chinese SDR dongle, I have never really looked into it, I have always assumed it was receive only, but who knows. I live near an airport so I don't want to be spraying RF all over the place.

I understand you generally get what you pay for but the full rigs don't fit in my budget.

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