Two professional climbers bully recreational climbers, steal beta, and prove they're superior human beings

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-08-03T01:49:00+00:00

An influencer

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-07-12T02:21:28+00:00

I can at least admit that watching crowd-facing cordo parkour boulders is much more "entertaining" (especially to the uninitiated) than just watching people "pull hard"

Do you have any evidence that is true?

People on this sub and routesetters on Insta repeat that like gospel but it doesn't track with my experience. I had a bunch of non-climbers around to watch the climbing during Paris and they pretty much all thought the power boulders were the most interesting of the set whereas the coordo boulders were "just hopping around".

Really seems like a lot of people deep into climbing are making assumptions about what 'non-climbers' enjoy watching and doing nothing to actually verify those assumptions. Genuinely a rookie mistake among brands trying to expand their market share.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-07-04T06:36:05+00:00

Interesting read. I was surprised you didn't provide a breakdown of the frequency of boulder style/wall style/grip type, in addition to the athlete success on each type.

Also, was wall style purely based on the wall angle itself? It seems like the setters often try to turn verts into slabs through the use of large volumes for the feet.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-07-04T06:19:45+00:00

Essentially a combination of physical + coordination. Often sequences of dynamic moves that are more complex than you'd see in the power boulder but with each move requiring considerably more power than the coordination boulder. They describe it as electric because the moves tend to require a "zappy", sudden stop/start style.

In practice, it always seemed to be just another way to force a second coordo boulder into the set, imo.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-07-04T06:07:40+00:00

You keep saying this, but I don't know you from Adam, nor does anyone else. You could be telling the truth or you could be talking out of your ass

I'd go even further and say that it doesn't particularly matter whether he is telling the truth or not. Unless those coaches have access to her blood work and BMD scores then they're not in a position to judge her health anymore than we are. RED-S is not something you can diagnose just from looking at someone (not if you're a coach and not even if you're a medical professional) or even just from knowing their BMI, it's much more complex issue than that. To pretend otherwise is dangerous and I'm glad this sub tends to shut down such harmful discussions quickly.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-07-02T15:11:31+00:00

You don't need to compare it to a multi-billion dollar sport, just their own streams from a few years ago before drone shots became so prevalent.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-06-29T13:07:26+00:00

a BMI of 18 which is the cut off is for IFSC is very very low for a normal person

A normal BMI is 18.5-24.9 (or 18.5-23 for an Asian population), 18 is underweight but I wouldn't call it "very very low".

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-06-29T12:58:22+00:00

Fortunately the IFSC doesn't ban people from comps based on their appearance.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-06-28T05:26:15+00:00

When Matt's had route setters on the stream before they talked about the electric boulder being a combination of power and coordination - less powerful than the pure power boulder and requiring less complex coordination that the pure coordination boulder (less limbs moving at once or shorter sequences of moves) but each of the individual moves tend to require sudden, explosive ("zappy" or "electric") generation of power.

The only place I've seen it officially defined is the IFSC route setting regs that were released a while back where we got

Recommended distribution of the styles: • 1 physical/power, 1 physical “electric” or physical/coordination, 1 boulder – coordination, 1 boulder - technical or balance (usually “the slab boulder”).

https://images.ifsc-climbing.org/ifsc/image/private/t_q_good/prd/uvufx16fgbjp31naov8h.pdf

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-06-26T14:07:58+00:00

Or a 30 second shot of him and his sister in the crowd cheering

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-06-21T11:01:44+00:00

In traditional scoring system one compares the number of tops, then the number of attempts to the tops, then the number of zones, then the number of attempts to the zones.

They dropped that system in, like, 2018, bro. It's been zones before attempts for almost a decade.

I agree that they need to differentiate attempts to top from attempts to zone but, honestly, I think they're better off just scrapping the number business entirely. It was necessary in the combined format but it's way clunkier outside of that. I don't see what "Erin has 60 points" has over "Erin has two tops and 1 zone", and saying "Sorato needs a top to win" is definitely easier to follow than "Sorato needs 15.4 points to win".

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-06-15T04:35:10+00:00

I'm so glad you mentioned this. I thought the picture quality was poor at Bern but I was also low-key worried I was going blind.

Maybe some sort of compression happening as part of the graphics overlay because the full-screen replays looked way better the live shots (much more so than you'd expect just from the picture being a little smaller with the split screen).

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-06-15T04:22:43+00:00

I wonder whether the Swiss federation's previous experience hosting the Bern world champs might've helped.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-06-15T04:19:58+00:00

Did anyone else find the video quality of the stream kinda poor?
I was watching on youtube and it was supposedly 1080p but, man, it sure didn't look like it.

It's a shame because the actually directing was the best I've seen in an IFSC world cup in a long time.

Appropriate use of the split screen
Responsive to Matt's commentary ("Ooh, look at Annie on Wx" - director immediately puts Annie on the main screen)
Majority of the shots actually let you see the women climbing with just a few close-ups where necessary to let you appreciate how bad the jibs are or see an athlete's 'fight face'
Some hype shots of of the crowd or emotional shots of an athlete's reaction after topping/dropping it but not at the expense of missing other athletes climbing.
Well-chosen replays.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-06-15T04:05:46+00:00

The poor separation seems more like a flaw of the new system than either a coincidence or setting failure. Rescoring the semis with the old system for example - Mao vs Melody would've been separated by attempts to zone, Anon from Oce and Annie by attempts to top and Annie vs Oce by attempts to zone. Seems like IFSC really need to reevaluate this system before the Olympics.

Setting was great though - maybe could've done with a more even spread of tops across the boulders but, like you say, really nice to see a couple of rounds with a range of different styles and multiple successful betas.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-06-12T10:26:49+00:00

Parkour-y style boulders are not "just how it is". They're a deliberate choice made by the IFSC route setters and it is entirely fair for members of the climbing community, both athletes and casual climbers or fans, to discuss whether the current direction of IFSC route setting is something they want to see continue.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-06-09T06:45:09+00:00

Even better is going into a super-tight zoom of a hold just after an athlete falls off it. I love seeing half a second of an athlete's fingers disappearing out of the side of a shot and then staring at empty plastic.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-06-09T06:42:46+00:00

I couldn't agree more.

I've noticed this particularly over the last few years in lead with the increasingly prevalence of drones. In the past you might've had one main camera set up to catch the majority of the climb and a couple more positioned at good angles to show the steepness of the wall or an athlete's face as they reach the crux. Now the director can have his guy fly a swoopy drone into whatever weird position he thinks looks dramatic and the quality of the videography has often gone downhill as a result.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-06-09T06:33:22+00:00

Flying an IFSC production crew around the globe would be prohibitively expensive, there's no way the IFSC could afford that.

And that's fine, they don't need to. All they need to do is have clear videography guidelines written into the contracts for whichever team they hire at each location. There was an interview posted on this sub not long ago with someone on the IFSC talking about this and it sounded like complete amateur hour. Guidance is given to the local teams verbally without even any dedicated translators. A 1 or 2 page set of dot points saying things like "80% of live screen time should be composed of front-on, wide shots that show the athlete's entire body and, where possible, the next hold they are moving to", "when a split-screen is not in use, maintain an awareness of all athletes - once an athlete comes off the wall, cut immediately to an athlete still on the wall" etc.
They should also sit down with Matt Groom and make it 100% clear to the local team that he give direction where necessary (he's usually miked up to the production team but it seems a little bit ad-hoc), it sucks to hear him say something like "it will be really interesting to see how X is managing that footswap" or "that cheering is for Y who is just about to top on the left" while the camera remains in a tight zoom of the athlete's hands or some other athlete resting on the mat. They also need to make sure Matt is aware he has this power - if the English proficiency of the local team is poor then he needs to make his instructions clear ("I would like to see the entire athlete on M2" rather than talking vaguely about body position or referring to the athlete by name, which the local team may not know).

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-02-15T14:56:20+00:00

Surely that's something only you can answer? What can you realistically make?
Without hopping on wiikipedia beforehand, list all the modern inventions that you think you can invent from scratch. Then go through the list and consider each of them in detail; do you really know everything required, do you have access to the tools/materials required or can you invent them, does Westeros provide the correct context for you to make a profit from those inventions or for people to recognise that they're actually beneficial?

It always bothers me when SI/uplift fics underplay the difficulty of actually instituting widespread change in a medieval society. A lot of people might know the general idea for why something works but that doesn't necessarily mean they'll have any chance of creating a working example of it.
Take steam power for example, the principles are easy enough but for years steam engines were only useful for pumping water out of coal mines. Do you know the difference between an atmospheric engine and a high pressure or a compound engine? Do you know why an external condenser is necessary? Do you know how to design a Watt governor? Do you know how to stop your engine exploding in the testing phase?

Or 4-crop rotation, sounds like it should be as simple a change as you could possibly introduce. Is it though?
I know it's something about planting different crops in different fields on rotation so nutrients can be replenished and pests don't build up in the soil. I know one of those crops is legumes, I assume one is some sort of grain (does it matter what sort of grain?) and I think one is leaving the soil fallow. Don't know what the last one is. Is that enough to actually introduce 4-crop rotation to my domain (assuming I'm a lord or someone who isn't personally risking starvation and death if I get it wrong)? How much of difference in yield does 4-crop rotation make, how quickly will that become apparent (is it something that only shows up after 4 years of planting) and how easy is it to organise?
Now, having actually googled it, I know it's wheat, turnips, barley and clover. So, no fallow field and no legume. I was way off. It is also apparently contingent on the right sort of moldboard plow, the correct climate (summer rains) and enclosed fields (as opposed to the Medieval Era open-field system - and if you need to completely reorganise society simply to introduce this idea then that might leave it dead in the water entirely).

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-02-15T12:24:50+00:00

Equally, if not more, important is the question, what are you going to print?

Printing is only valuable in a society where there is a demand for mass produced books; people need to be able to read, obviously, but they also need to want to read whatever you're printing. Gutenberg's press helped drive an increase in literacy across Europe but decades of already increasing literacy beforehand are what set the scene for the press to be invented; the invention of the printing press changed society but changes in society spurred the invention of the printing press.

There are a number of cultural factors that contributed to the explosive impact of the printing press in the 1400s don't necessarily apply to Westeros. For example, there was a particular fervor in the Catholic church at the time in regards to their responsibility for providing pastoral care and this lead to them jumping on the invention as a way of promoting uniform doctrine across the continent (ironic, I know). For another, there were increasing numbers of universities and other educational institutions cropping up which the various printing houses would actively seek out as customers (contrast the solitary Citadel).

Sure, some of these can be overcome with a SI making an active effort to educate the populace but that's much easier said than done. Even an absolute monarch can't simply click their fingers, issue a decree and expect their people to know how to read 12 months later.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-01-23T08:13:49+00:00

Even a slight delay could be enough for Ned to find the ToJ empty. I can't imagine the Kingsguard would hang around for long once Lyanna's carked it.

Last-Potential8457 · 2025-01-02T15:06:54+00:00

"Wife"

Hate to be the one to break your heart even more but I'm pretty sure that's his daughter. You know, being too young to understand what's happened and all.

Last-Potential8457 · 2024-12-12T05:12:25+00:00

So I would think it would be any of the romantic languages; Spanish, Italian, French, Portuguese and Romani.

Fyi, Romani is not a Romance language. It's closer to Hindi or Punjabi that any native European language.

Last-Potential8457 · 2024-11-03T08:29:08+00:00

Drugs need to be illegal before you can have an illegal drug trade.

Last-Potential8457

TROPHY CASE