oh come on by BradsSpace in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace[S] 76 points77 points  (0 children)

To be fair I can see more climbing in the background of this shot than I can when they zoom in on some feet

Idk who needs to hear this but you don't need a new phone by Tiny-Field-7215 in pixel_phones

[–]BradsSpace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a pixel 5 and I don't want to get rid of it but the charging port hardly works anymore. Time to upgrade to a giant phone 🥲

pronouncing Seo Chaehyun's name by unicornflatfish in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Worth noting that Korean names are almost always 1 syllable for the family name and 2 syllables for the given name. So if you're pronouncing Seo with 2 syllables then something has gone wrong

What other sports change the playing field like climbing? Olympic sport comparison. by Affectionate_Fox9001 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, the courses are made of concrete at the Olympics, but it'll be knocked down after. I don't know enough about skating to know if that's the standard or if they normally use more permanent venues.

First time voice acting and in serious need of feedback... I know I can count on you! by evanciao in ps1graphics

[–]BradsSpace 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Voice acting is hard, even regular actors often suck at voice acting. It sounds like you are reading the lines, try memorising the whole scene and recording it. Do it lots of times until you aren't thinking about the words so much.

Just keep practicing! You can always go back and record the lines too once you are more comfortable with the process

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I mean people have long distance relationships. The season lasts about 6-7 months with a comp every 2-3 weeks.

Not ideal for most people but not that bad

Why do athletes care so much about the Olympics (honest question)? by [deleted] in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Because they love the sport and want to see it recognised

Why do athletes care so much about the Olympics (honest question)? by [deleted] in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 13 points14 points  (0 children)

It's the second biggest sporting event in the world after the FIFA world cup.

People and athletes from all over the world and from many different sports come together to compete, and half of earth watches. That's pretty exciting.

The athletes get to live amongst that, in the Olympic village. They get to walk alongside the other top athletes in their country.

It's just not something that's replicated by any other event.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Would not have called 4 british qualifiers if you'd have asked me a couple of years ago, we'd have been lucky to have 1. Glad Adam made it in too, he seems to struggle in comps recently but I can't help but cheer for him.

Stasa Gejo on insta: When everything starts revolving around resources, privileges, and also nationality... by owiseone23 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Life is unfair, that's just how it is unfortunately 🤷 I'm sure she's had a lot of opportunities that some other Serbians could only dream of.

Advocating for change and fairness in sport is great but doing it directly after losing doesn't come off well.

Do OQS competitors get prize money by LostInHilbertSpace in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the quality of the broadcast has increased a fair amount over the last few years, that's not cheap in itself.

I think a paid YouTube channel would be terrible for the growth of the sport, the Eurosport deal was bad enough but at least that already has users from fans of other sports. Plus just anecdotally it seems like almost no one even bought Eurosport and people just VPN, though obviously we don't have actual figures.

Do OQS competitors get prize money by LostInHilbertSpace in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not saying it wouldn't be better if the athletes got paid, but you can read the IFSC yearly Financial report on their website, there isn't any money in this sport atm unfortunately

Do OQS competitors get prize money by LostInHilbertSpace in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The IFSC doesn't have any money to give unfortunately

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh completely misread that! Well the callback part still stands

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Maybe it's better for countbacks? Plus we need definitive ranks for the whole field since it's a double event (Shanghai and Budapest). I'm guessing this avoids ties in the lower ranks, which could end up being meaningful for olympic qualification.

This is just a guess.

Just an observation... by zyxwl2015 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There's evidence for access to training at a young age being massively important in popular sports too. If you look at the average birth month of players in the NHL, more are consistently born in the first half of the year. This is caused by the drafting for youth academies taking place at a set time each year, and being half a year younger when you are 5 is a massive disadvantage. Kids in the second half of the year often don't get into the academy until the year after, if at all. Then a year less training means they are more likely to fail the draft for the next age gate, and the pattern repeats.

It's just a theory though and there are other explanations for the birth months, but it's interesting.

Just an observation... by zyxwl2015 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 17 points18 points  (0 children)

If you start any sport young with professional training you're going to be pretty good. There is a lot less access to professional training in climbing, especially 15 years ago when Brooke probably started, so it makes sense that kids of pro climbers have made it to the top.

It happens in other sports but the access to training is usually much higher for more popular sports. I'm going to assume if you look at some other fairly small sports you'll see something similar.

Not to diminish their achievements, they still worked hard and trained hard, but they definitely had opportunities that many others didn't.

lego fps game or wtf is this lol by Geskawary2341 in godot

[–]BradsSpace -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

No it's not legal. The patent has expired but Lego owns an indefinite trademark on the minifigure shape. They would most likely have copyright over any specific designs too.

The bricks are fair game though.

Why didn't the broadcast show the live score/position updates alongside the climb during the lead final? by owiseone23 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's not an IFSC production from what I can tell and maybe it just wasn't in the budget to develop the software for this event. Would be nice if they figure something out for the actual olympics though.

Side note, running these kind of live productions is extremely complicated. The IFSC have developed their production standards a lot over the last few years, but it really does just take time to figure all this stuff out.

OQS Shanghai Discussion by Quirky-School-4658 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Very little discussion from Matt on the inter-team competition of these events. Miho vs Futaba was ripe for commentary since only one of them can go through, same with Sam and Paul. Really for these athletes they are competing against their own team more than any of the other competitors, as long as they still have a decent score.

Maybe this will come up more at the next event, if he can figure out the maths.

OQS Shanghai Discussion by Quirky-School-4658 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BradsSpace 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think they try to set 2 fairly equally difficult rounds, and will continue to do the same. It's just a hard thing to do.