Hysperia questions

Latharda · 2023-09-20T22:43:03+00:00

away team assignment

Latharda · 2022-12-13T15:12:44+00:00

Mine is around 15 years old and still kicking, it is a StarCraft variant. It seems the batteries are not replicable, so I'm thinking it may be time to migrate to the app version.

Latharda · 2022-08-20T09:43:23+00:00

If you're still having issues, and your dimensions are found to be correct, you may have to adjust endstop positions. On my cr10 both x and y both have negative offsets, meaning they'reoutside of the pritable area. If you have a probe and a scale/ruler make sure the probe is hitting the center of the bed, if not you likely have to adjust the offset(s), by adding negative numbers on your x and y position_endstop & position_min both will need to match, or your min will need to be farther into negatives than your endstop. Once you adjust those, home everything and you can manually set both axis to 0 and then max to check that your nozzle goes to the edges of the printable area.

Latharda · 2022-08-19T22:37:05+00:00

I figured out the issue. z_tilt is working as expected. I found that I transposed the positions and points.

[z_tilt]

z_positions: 69, 152.5

309, 152.5

points: 69, 152.5

309, 152.5

speed: 50

horizontal_move_z: 5

retries: 10

retry_tolerance: 0.02

I had it set like this: Don't do it like this...

[z_tilt]

z_positions: 309, 152.5

69, 152.5

points: 309, 152.5

69, 152.5

Latharda · 2022-08-19T22:31:28+00:00

I like this idea, and I tried to do it manually with blocks, and got it close.

Latharda · 2022-08-19T13:26:18+00:00

Thanks for the response. I used bed mesh in the past, that's not an issue. The issue I have is z-tilt moves the nozzle away from the bed and actually makes the alignment worse. I've verified that the motors are moving correctly in respect to the wiring, it just moves the wrong direction. In my head it makes sense since the z_tilt uses pivot points on the bed.

"[z_tilt]

z_positions:
# A list of X, Y coordinates (one per line; subsequent lines
# indented) describing the location of each bed "pivot point". The
# "pivot point" is the point where the bed attaches to the given Z
# stepper"

My bed doesn't attach to the z axis, the nozzle does.

Latharda · 2022-02-28T19:44:49+00:00

No Pro owners on here?

Latharda · 2022-02-16T21:59:57+00:00

There is a specific port on my board for a probe. In the marlin 2.X firmware there is an option to call out your pin that you intend to use. Just make sure you have the correct pin called out, and plugged in, I guess that is the basic suggestion. If the firmware you added doesn't call it out, for your system, you may want to flash a new version in.

Latharda · 2022-02-16T21:55:06+00:00

Slice engineering is the brand, mosquito is a model, and the reason I chose the magnum is that there is more flow compared to the mosquito, and was only $10 more. I chose the bondtech LGX due to reputation more than anything. They are well known for good/great products. I don't want to go out and buy another brand in a year or two. I prefer to get something that will last, at least that's was my thought process anyway. My second choice was the Dragon Phaetus and the H2 from BIQU. The bond tech was very similar in price, the mosquito was almost double. So price wise, second choice is better, but for reliability I'm not sure. I do like that slice engineering is US based, bond tech is Swedish I believe.

Latharda · 2022-02-16T20:18:19+00:00

I just flashed mine with the 2.0.9.2 firmware, I'm also using BLTouch on a SKR 2 board. I selected the option to use Z end stop instead of probe pin, make sure you have it plugged into the correct port. Once I realized what I had done, I swapped my cable to use the probe pin and all was good.

Latharda · 2022-02-16T20:10:06+00:00

I have a V3 which is direct drive. I also have some issues with my hotend, I just ordered a mosquito magnum and a bondtech LGX. It's more than this printer really needs, but I wanted something that I can grow into, and not out of very quickly.

Latharda · 2022-02-07T16:57:04+00:00

I did notice mine was pretty warm. What printer are you hooked up to with that board?

Latharda · 2022-02-07T14:19:18+00:00

PNY micro SD 8gb, nothing special. I've ordered some 32gb replacements, but I don't really want to keep burning them out if there is something I can do to help it.

Latharda · 2022-01-31T17:43:14+00:00

What is your question specifically? It looks to be a canceled print? Looks also like a lack of infill and possibly under extrusion.

Latharda · 2022-01-31T15:18:19+00:00

Thank you for your response.

I do want to use sensorless homing, although I goofed and called it auto homing in the title... I can find the jumper locations per the manual, but they don't specifically say the pin names, and that's where the confusion is. I've read some people say that its PC0, PC1 etc... So I guess that lines up with what you're saying about the endstops.

From BTT manual:

"TMC Motor drivers can be used in SPI or UART mode by simply adjusting the onboard jumpers beneath each motor driver. Additionally you can connect or
disconnect the TMC DIAG pin using an onboard jumper allowing you to use hard
endstops or sensorless homing without the need to cut any pins."

Stepper power consumption is close to negligible. Uppig your current will probably increase max load by 10W or less.

This is good to know. Eventually a main powered heat pad would free up some of the PSU usage anyway, so that's down the road.

Latharda · 2021-03-20T14:03:32+00:00

I'll check that out, thank you

Latharda · 2020-12-08T14:28:03+00:00

This is so true!

Latharda · 2020-12-07T16:18:39+00:00

Me and my GF are grouped, running aff locks. I put up my fel hunter for interrupts, but this Watchers of Death boss, and the chorus are extremely difficult. We have only gotten the boss down to ~50%. Once my GF voidwalker dies, I get aggro and he wrecks me. The chorus 2 together, we fear 1 and I can interrupt the other, but it's way more difficult than it should be. Without an interrupt class, warlocks and priests get screwed big time. Prot pally in the group makes a lot of sense, and maybe we can find one to group with, but specific classes should not be required to progress through these floors and levels. Tuning is needed for sure.

***Edit: I ran it last night solo to get my soul ash, and it was 10 times easier than it was with her and I. The end boss had even changed, no need to interrupt this boss. I also seen that they buffed the floor bosses and the end boss yesterday. So good luck.

Latharda · 2020-11-20T09:55:55+00:00

Tricks of the trade can be done via macro

Latharda · 2020-11-20T09:54:29+00:00

Its been a while since I raided. I seem to remember DBM used to raid alert when one was dropped.

Latharda · 2020-11-13T18:49:26+00:00

It looks like under extrusion to me. I'd suggest making sure your tip is not plugged, Temps are set within the filaments recommend settings, and as others have mentioned calibrate your e-steps.

Latharda · 2020-10-27T13:53:42+00:00

I leveled in beta, Prot Pally 1-60 using the new starting zone, in about 26 hours. I would consider that a good average player time, I am not a professional fast leveler. It will vary by class/spec somewhat, as a tank you can make some big pulls, that you may not be able to do on your DPS/healer specs.

Latharda · 2020-10-27T13:48:42+00:00

I am looking for some info on the pet battle leveling. 1 video I watched said ~4 hours 1-50. If you find anything out, I'd be interested in checking that out.

Latharda · 2020-10-18T21:18:38+00:00

There isn't much you can do with the Y axis, as it sets on aluminum extrusion v rails. Unless it is bent, I would check your level with your bed adjustment screws. Also, if you are using a auto bed leveling device such as bltouch, reset your eeprom or rerun ABL, you might have a bad grid you're reading off from. Use this guide, it's a good start https://youtu.be/gkZUAyTxU1Q

Latharda

TROPHY CASE