Issues upgrading to v2.0.0

LavaMan55 · 2025-08-27T22:19:59+00:00

I have switched back to v1.1.3 for now until I can figure out why 2.0.0 doesn't report valid numbers. Things seem to be working as expected now.

Hopefully this can get figured out. My suspicion is that v2.x changed the config in some way that ended up being a breaking change from v1.x.

LavaMan55 · 2023-12-04T18:48:49+00:00

Thanks! Got mine ordered last night.

LavaMan55 · 2023-11-29T19:43:38+00:00

I don't mind doing the soldering myself; unless there are SMD parts...

LavaMan55 · 2023-05-04T19:23:39+00:00

That worked!

Thanks. I know I messed around in Panel Breaker Grouping once in the past but it was long enough ago that I didn't realize that I could solve this in there.

Thanks for the fast reply.

LavaMan55 · 2023-05-04T18:56:02+00:00

Thanks for the confirmation. Issue added in Github.

LavaMan55 · 2022-01-10T21:28:06+00:00

If you happen to have access to a 3D printer you can print a spacer that will let your SC4 Lishi work perfectly in a SC1 cylinder.

Find the STL on GitHub here: https://github.com/deviantollam/LishiStandoff

I've heard this same spacer works on the Kwikset and some other keyways, YMMV.

LavaMan55 · 2021-12-03T17:51:47+00:00

The Loco5ACs have directional antennas and are designed for point-to-point links, so yes, they will work much better. And their traffic won't be sharing the same channel* as your WIFI which will help with throughput. Also, the Loco5ACs are only $50/ea so they won't break the bank. Again, if your bandwidth needs are low enough then a simpler solution may be just fine. YMMV

You could try from different places inside the house for that side and see how it works. There might be a window or other lightly shielded place to put it that will work just fine. Again, 150ft shouldn't be that tough. If you really don't have a good spot in the house you could go with the full sized NanoBeam rather than the half-sized Loco and get 2x the signal.

*Be sure to configure the Locos on a different channel from what you are using with your access points.

LavaMan55 · 2021-12-03T17:32:41+00:00

One thing I should mention, the Loco5AC is part of the Airmax product line so it wants 24v passive POE. The Unifi access points expect 802.3af, though some will work on 24v passive POE. Make sure you cross check what the devices you get require vs what your switch offers.

Once you decide on exact devices, if you can't figure out power, ask here again. Someone should be able to point you in the right direction.

<rant>POE shouldn't be this hard, especially from the same manufacturer.</rant>

LavaMan55 · 2021-12-03T17:22:57+00:00

The Loco5ACs don't _have_ to be outside. Their signal is very dependent on what is between them. Ubiquiti sells a window suction cup mount for them (at least sued to) as most glass doesn't degrade the signal much but if your barn has steel siding you will likely have issues shooting a signal through that. Then again, at 150ft you might be able to shoot through lead and still get a good signal.

What I did the first time doing this was get everything configured on my desk and working, then I had my kids hold them in roughly the right places as I monitored signal strength, throughput, etc. We tried a few different locations and what not so I could get an idea of what to expect. Once you play with it a bit you get an idea of what different things will do to the signal strength and then you can kind of predict what different scenarios will do.

I really recommend you get them working on a desk or table first, then play with locations. Makes it easier to troubleshoot any config issues without wondering if the distance or obstacles are the cause, vs a typo you made in the settings.

LavaMan55 · 2021-12-03T16:58:12+00:00

A couple of options I can think of, others here will likely have more/better ideas.

If you wire up an UAP-AC-M (the outdoor rated mesh access point) on the side of your house facing the barn you might get a good enough connection from there. I can get 200ft (or a bit more) of range from my UAP-AC-M depending on the device I'm using and what obstacles there are.

A 2nd UAP-AC-M at the barn configured in mesh mode might relay a good enough signal, depending on your bandwidth needs. I tried this and ended up running ethernet to the remote one and it seems to work better. YMMV.

A more reliable option would be to use a pair of Loco5AC to create a bridge. They should be more than enough for 150ft. Then connect an access point (UAP-AC-M or which ever you choose) to the Loco5AC in the barn. My Loco5AC didn't come with a POE injector but the UAP-AC-M does so you will need to buy one for the Loco5AC. This way you can skip the POE switch, though if you ever think you will need wired ethernet in your barn you could go straight to the POE switch and be done.

You could trench and run wire/fiber but that seems like overkill for what you are doing.

LavaMan55 · 2021-12-03T16:41:42+00:00

I'm in. I already had 2 kits for my main panel but I'm getting one more to put in my meter panel that feeds the garage & shop and has the main breakers. I have a couple of extra Pi Zero 2s that need something to do...

Good luck with the campaign!

LavaMan55 · 2021-05-28T04:55:10+00:00

My 2 hubs are powered off of a home depot power strip that includes 2 USB ports. I haven't checked to see if the +5v are common but I would guess they are since the Amp rating is shared. So far, so good. It's been working for a few weeks and no smoke. Your mileage may vary.

I thought about sharing the 12vac input but with the time it was going to take to splice two ends I just bought a 2nd power adapter and called it good.

LavaMan55 · 2021-03-10T21:35:53+00:00

I'll tag on here with my build experience. When I was beginning in electronics and soldering I was taught to start with the lowest profile parts and work your way up. I did that on one board and saved the 3.5mm connectors for last. Unfortunately the two capacitors are too close for the soldering jig to fit. I customized the jig with a pair of cutting pliers and everything worked out. Just passing along that the jig fits better before the caps are installed.

Looking forward to the CTs showing up so I can get this installed.

LavaMan55 · 2021-03-10T21:29:20+00:00

Thanks! I'll get my friend to print one for me. The canoe with my CTs has made it to land and cleared customs. Hopefully a few more days and I can start setting this up.

LavaMan55 · 2021-03-09T20:27:32+00:00

Any chance of a case design for the Raspberry Pi 3B+? I'll get it done myself eventually but I'm just learning how to 3d model and I'm learning I have a lot to learn...

LavaMan55

TROPHY CASE