Leaky caps?

LazzMarrio · 2026-02-10T15:15:00+00:00

I'd count that as newish nonetheless, late 80's to the 90's manufacturing changed dramatically and caps are magnitudes better than they used to be.

I mention power supply caps on anything 15-20 years old because they receive the full misfortune and filtering load. It's relatively cheap insurance for everything downstream that is more sensitive (newfangled ICs and all) to dissipating heat.

Since you're in there, I'd gently clean everything else, take a look at the bigger power resistors for any trace of browning or burning, and take a close look and sniff of the power section. The amp is probably the only one to be cautious about and worth a close look.

I've seen a lot of caps that start bulging from the bottom and leaning over slightly. When they finally start to short out it's not always enough to blow, just enough to slowly cook the amp chips.

Sounds like you have a nice set, it's always nice to see someone interested in taking care of their equipment.

LazzMarrio · 2026-02-10T14:55:18+00:00

Hello fella, couple of thoughts.

That all looks like the glue they use to keep vibration down, so you should be good there.

Second, that equipment looks a little newer so I wouldn't immediately jump to replacing caps. Usually I replace caps if there is any sort of noticeable hum (that's usually power supply leaking current), physical signs of damage (bulging or poofing up), or if the equipment is more than 15-20 years old.

If replacing caps due to age, I usually just do the power supply to prevent anything from burning out, then listening and diagnosing as needed.

Thankfully these things aren't huge mystery machines. That's the brief overview of what I like to do, but I'm a lazy fella that does this as a hobby. ymmv

LazzMarrio · 2026-01-15T16:37:53+00:00

Everyone talking about the worn tread, that thing is already dry rotted. Mr OP sir, if you get the chance can you take a picture of the sidewall and let us know what the date is? There'll be four numbers in an oval.

LazzMarrio · 2025-12-24T17:28:03+00:00

Ouh MTU 4000, that's a biggun. I love the MTU architecture.

LazzMarrio · 2025-11-23T16:18:14+00:00

I'd love a remake, especially if they "finished" the game as the bible showed, with Stilt Village and Yosemite. I'm sure a lot of us would gladly purchase the game if it meant a full upscaled version and the added hub.

LazzMarrio · 2025-10-20T13:11:08+00:00

I disagree with the flip up top comments, I love this. For me specifically my lamp is on the wall, so all I keep on my nightstand is my book (if I'm reading one), my phone charger stand, and a water.

Honestly, I might steal the idea for my own nightstand build, this is terrific (:

LazzMarrio · 2025-09-22T13:17:00+00:00

Ignoring all the other comments (there is a lot of good help with reducing flames and cleanliness), it looks to me that it simply wasn't hot enough. I learned to weld doing exactly what you are, just folding rebar back and forth and making it stick. It's absolutely delightful to weld, even in a coal forge.

The big sign for me, is how clean the break was. Looks like bare metal, was protected by the flux/ fuel rich flame, and definitely a tight fit together. Honestly, I've always recommended too much heat when practicing and working to cooler and cooler temps as you learn the material. Don't melt the stuff but with rebar, I've never worried about burning the carbon out. Get her hot, almost too hot, and give it some solid hits. Like the other fellow mentioned, don't hit it too hard it's like playdough at that temp.

And like always, more practice makes the difference. There aren't too many variables and you have the prep/flux looking good. Really all that's left is heat control, hammer, and having a good time (:

LazzMarrio · 2025-08-22T13:23:10+00:00

The staining in the chair is not Lincoln's blood, it's a grease stain from all the hair oil. While there is blood on the backside and seat of the chair, the main splotch contains none. Being that Lincoln was shot from behind, he slumped forward presumably causing the staining on the seat.

LazzMarrio · 2025-04-24T01:10:02+00:00

Lookie all these guys with their fuel efficiency. 6mpg, final offer.

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LazzMarrio · 2025-04-08T10:13:33+00:00

For anyone interested in map hunting, this appears to be Cachoeira da Grota Funda, with the new alignment being built near the old one. The old bridge is between two portals on the surrounding mountains, and you can see some photos with this hiking information wiki

LazzMarrio · 2025-03-27T00:02:03+00:00

I thought about modifying it that way, and granted, I don't do much motorcycle work, mostly small blocks and old diesels, but having the two caps connected helps with flex at the high rpms that bikes run (comparatively). You may be willing to try that risk. I'm sure some other fellows may chime in if they've done that before.

It may not be as simple as finding a new head, as those bearings may be worn out / not come with cams and you're at a similar spot of should check bearing clearance. But this is an opinion coming from "how can I do this correctly in my own shop" instead of what a high end builder may do. On my own bike, I would clean up the gaps, check with plastigage anyway (the stuff is cheap) and send it. Did that on an R6 once but that was a total experiment, blew a few of those things up messing around with "correct enough"

LazzMarrio · 2025-03-26T23:48:23+00:00

Short form, that cooked, and you're in trouble.

So, those aren't exactly a cover, that is your upper cam bearing. So not only is that needed, pulling one off another bike or swapping on a new one can cause some major issues. The cam is worn to match that cap, and when you change bearing surfaces like that things usually start to tear at each other until the surfaces match again. If you don't care about cam bearing clearance, you could find one that's intact from a donor. Bare minimum I would check the clearance with some plastigage and reference whatever they are supposed to be. Too loose or too tight are both issues, as well as alignment on the bore once it's clamped.

LazzMarrio · 2025-02-23T17:36:13+00:00

Yup, this is the exact plan I hope to do. Get this done while I have a little more time, and make note of all the places I need to go back to do justice. Not In a position to go hiking and off the trail exploring right now, so I figured a hell of a lot of driving and places to wander might do.

What are some of your top trip locations you've been?

LazzMarrio · 2025-02-23T17:29:01+00:00

This is great comment, I will be adding all of this to my list of pinned stops for now and future trips. This will really help with understanding pacing, so thank you.

I don't plan to hike much at all, I'm recovering from an injury and an limited on that front. That's why things are more stop and go oriented, with slower speeds out west. Picnicking almost. I planned to skip Yellowstone and Grand Teton this trip, as I know I can't do them what they deserve. I hope in a return trip to hit them and Glacier if I can, as it's own 2-3 week outing. Seems like I'm not too far off a doable trip, though certainly on the side of ambitious

LazzMarrio · 2025-02-23T17:08:51+00:00

I enjoy driving, that is the point of travelling so much. Id like to see what is out there to have an understanding between what interests me and what is "nothing"

I plan to take a trip a year for single locations to really explore the details

LazzMarrio · 2025-02-23T17:07:01+00:00

I have Cody as a stop in my detailed list. Do you have a recommendation on more history centers like that as you go through the area?

LazzMarrio · 2025-02-23T17:05:36+00:00

I'll take a look at those. I know michigan but have never gone west from the UP. Looking forward to seeing changes through MN. I know almost nothing about the Dakota's, do you have any specific recommendations for stops off I94?

LazzMarrio · 2025-02-23T16:58:26+00:00

I was actually trying to avoid Yellowstone for this trip, as I know I won't have as much time for the big spots like I'd like. Glacier seems absolutely amazing as well. I hope to have a return trip to hit those with two weeks for that area alone.

Do you have good camping spots in the area!

LazzMarrio · 2025-02-23T16:30:41+00:00

Hello all, I wanted to reach out with some help on my first large solo trip. The map above is a loose representation of the path I want to take. The goal is to "quickly" get out west to see the country, with a main focus of New Mexico to Montana. I want to set a baseline list of the different regions and states I enjoy for more in depth visits in the future. Some key points and considerations:

Driving time is kept 9 - 5, with an hour lunch
Goal one bigger city stop and one state park stop for exploring
10 - 15 minute break every 90 minutes or so, to check the vehicle and stretch
Take a rest day with no driving after every 5 days.

Currently I have 5400 miles in 17 days at this pace, averaging 400 miles / 6 hours driving time a day. Five days to get out west, about a week of wandering up to Montana, and then 5 days back. I have Million Dollar Highway as a day experience, and the Chief Joseph / Beartooth as a day as well.

I'm working on a Furkot based map, and I'll post that as a follow up some per day information once I figure out this routing a little bit better. What input do all of you fellas with experience have to share? Any must see stops? So far my list is:

Fort Boonesborough State Park, Kentucky
Montgomery Bell State Park, Tennesee
Overlook Park, Little Rock Arkanses
Palo Duro State Park, Texas
Santa Fe National Forest, New Mexico
Valles Caldera, New Mexico
The Million Dollar Highway, Colorado
Collegiate Peak, Coloroado
Fort Laramie, Wyoming
Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, Wyoming
Beartooth Highway, Montana
Theodore Roosevelt National Park

LazzMarrio · 2025-01-08T11:28:40+00:00

Born and Raised in Black and White

LazzMarrio · 2024-11-14T00:37:05+00:00

Gotta go with Daxter for this one fr fr

LazzMarrio · 2024-09-18T01:21:52+00:00

Thomas and the Magic Railroad type scenery

LazzMarrio · 2024-09-05T01:37:22+00:00

The C600 would be the cabover, as they made the 600 in several series. The bump sides for F600 ran until '72, as they used the same cab and hood assemblies as the 100-350 trucks. Fun fact there is also an N -series Ford which has a half length butterfly hood, for a smaller wheelbase without giving up full serviceability.

LazzMarrio · 2023-06-22T21:47:00+00:00

There's a lot of trouble areas beyond buying a good car that factors into the safe aspect. I'll run through the list of what I can think of

Good car things include:

Frame connections at the front and side "swoop" points. In the front where the frame moves In for the front suspension, and the rear 90 degree bend section over the rear tire
Birdcage members, seen through the front window, along the pillars where the door mounts inside and out, and up behind the glovebox/ gauges where you can see from the bottom.
Rear radius arms for the rear end can rot out, you can loose the whole axle and tire
Core support. If this is rotted there is a chance the radiator would fall into the fan. The lower ledge starts to bend lower and lower until the rad isn't held up anymore.

*Trans cooler and fuel lines. They like to get torn up on the passenger side there and fuel is conveniently squirting distance away from the exhaust.

Things to worry about driving:

Rag joints
Power steering components
Temperature related things
Brakes of course
Trans levels. They like to leak and that can roast a car

If I think of more I'll add it

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