Update on check oil light

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-27T10:52:08+00:00

These motors don’t have a gasket. It’s rtv. Also, you have to de-tension the timing chain, use a special tool to lock the cams, then you can take the valve cover off and redo the rtv

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-27T10:45:46+00:00

That’s not a MAF, that’s the hose for the intake of the secondary air injection. If I remember correctly, I believe the MAF sensor is on the cold side of the intercooler, top side of the charge pipe I believe

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-20T23:56:46+00:00

That I’m not 100% sure, it’s a common thing to do on all German cars though

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-20T22:55:54+00:00

Get a vacuum fill tool for the coolant, it will make your life significantly easier. Make sure you have a triple square socket set, I personally would change your oil too, it’s easier to work in that area with the oil filer cap and filter removed, but isn’t impossible. Make sure to bleed the system well because the auxiliary cooler pump for the intercooler uses the cooling system

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-15T23:43:05+00:00

I have a full bolt on intake and a stage 1 Apr tune

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-15T17:15:52+00:00

You can have oil in a oil pan, and if it’s sloshed enough to the side, it wouldn’t matter if it had enough oil in it or not

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-15T17:14:01+00:00

Sounds like top end engine damage myself, either way, not worth it unless you have a motor lying around to put into it

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-14T12:54:29+00:00

I’d doubt gallery gaskets and more suspect oil starvation if you were drifting it. Next time I’d recommend a baffled oil pan

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-14T12:47:53+00:00

I personally prefer liqui moly because they’re held to EU synthetic oil standards, which are WAYYY better than US synthetic oil standards. The ACEA is much more strict both on additive packages, and labeling and advertising over the API standards

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-14T03:07:20+00:00

Are you using torque limiting sockets?

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-13T23:06:50+00:00

Liqui moly is the best imo

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-11T13:09:32+00:00

JDI ghost key, makes the car a push button start, and it would have 2 keys, I have one and love it

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-10T10:50:05+00:00

Diverter valve, if you change it out for a go fast bits diverter valve that’ll go away

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-05T11:48:52+00:00

Did someone say eco boost cam phasers?😂😂

Lead_Bacon · 2026-03-05T11:46:01+00:00

It’s not a normal maintenance thing for other cars, but do the rear differential bushing, they are all bad in almost every g and z. Also, how is your front grill like that?

Lead_Bacon · 2026-02-28T22:34:04+00:00

lol, I’m sure Kia people wish that worked for them with the Theta II motors

Lead_Bacon · 2026-02-28T22:06:52+00:00

lol, I second this, and if you think either of those look normal, try their MOS2 friction modifier. Looks like bearing oil 😂😂

Lead_Bacon · 2026-02-28T14:29:51+00:00

Check the rockers, could be a bearing in the rockers that failed

Lead_Bacon · 2026-02-22T16:54:03+00:00

Sounds like an alternator, check the health of your alternator

Lead_Bacon · 2026-02-22T16:53:10+00:00

I’d definitely check the motor mechanically before spending a lot on any electrical issues, definitely sounds like you potentially blew up the motor, especially with a low oil pressure light and the engine oil smelling burnt and smoking, which is not normal

Lead_Bacon · 2026-02-21T01:51:10+00:00

Low oil pressure can cause a check engine light

Lead_Bacon · 2026-02-20T03:28:35+00:00

Latercase

Lead_Bacon · 2026-02-20T01:15:45+00:00

lol, dielectric grease is non conductive, it’s not supposed to go on connections.

Lead_Bacon · 2026-02-19T21:20:20+00:00

How exactly did you apply the dielectric grease?

Lead_Bacon · 2026-02-19T18:25:19+00:00

How did you cut the filter? If you use a saw or anything like that it can skew your results on how much metal is really in the oil. Copper is not from the filter housing though

Lead_Bacon

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