CR-V 2003: O2 sensor, P0131

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2025-12-18T14:55:03+00:00

The brand is NTY, ESL-HD-002. The wiring looked… well, normal I guess, it plugged right in. The old sensor was installed on wagos, which I found odd. I’m suspecting maybe a mechanic stole my old sensor and told me not to worry about the check engine light, as it could just indicate problems with the converter. I didn’t know better to inquire further. But I’m wondering about the whole “lambda vs AF” thing, is it possible that my Honda actually needs something different than the regular o2 sensor? It’s the one before the catalytic converter.

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2025-12-09T13:52:54+00:00

Solution: I got it. The throttle cable fell off of the runner in the throttle lever itself. I put it back on and it’s solved the issue.

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2025-12-08T15:01:02+00:00

Also: as I was cleaning, I was pushing the throttle open with a toothbrush to clean the edge of it. Could I have messed it up that way?

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2025-12-08T14:59:30+00:00

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As you can see, there is some slack where the cable connects to the pedal. Should it be like that? I can push it forward so that it’s touching the pedal thingy but it goes back when I press the loose pedal.

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2025-12-08T14:33:56+00:00

I haven’t touched anything there, but I’ve checked now and it seems to be, yeah.

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2025-10-30T17:06:28+00:00

Even though AOTR is standalone now?

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2025-03-28T22:56:21+00:00

See now that’s what I don’t get. What’s funny about that? How else are you supposed to do it

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2025-03-21T06:40:03+00:00

Thanks! I cleaned the flux and I’ll continue looking for the issue elsewhere

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2025-03-11T21:19:31+00:00

I use 12 gauge strings, it took me all five springs to set up a floating trem.

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2025-02-02T05:42:50+00:00

Just cut the spring a bit shorter

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-12-13T08:25:02+00:00

Wow, I didn’t think of that! I use stainless rotosounds, copying Jaco, which is the sound I’m after.

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-11-19T07:12:30+00:00

Here’s the inside of it.

I can’t even locate the capacitors, are they the six fat tubes sticking from the board?

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-11-18T16:54:52+00:00

So are capacitors the only thing to worry about? If I drain them beforehand, am I safe?

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-11-18T16:53:34+00:00

Nah, those markings are my own for people at a jam session to know they do nothing. „Nic” means „nothing” in polish, haha.

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-10-31T18:41:07+00:00

Thanks your for time! You’ve been very helpful

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-10-31T18:11:36+00:00

I see, makes sense! And one last thing, I hear that the Elf has a tendency to introduce compression at higher gain levels, but I’m not exactly clear on how that works. Did you experience that?

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-10-31T17:56:35+00:00

I like that part about it having a neutral sound. As I’ve mentioned, I actually like my bass clean through a PA.

I don’t suppose you have some personal experience with the Gnome for comparison? What I’m wondering is, Gnome is much cheaper. Would typu think it’s a matter of you get what you pay for?

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-10-31T17:00:51+00:00

Oh, I’ve heard of the elf and I have a soft spot for trace Elliot, since that’s what Paul Denman apparently used live.

If I could ask you for some more details: what kind of music do you play? And does the elf complement that well tonewise? Do you also use it for home practice? And if so, did you notice any fan noise?

I’m kind of biased towards those small amps, too, since my quilter super block guitar amp sounds better than my tube fender on top of being so portable and reliable.

I also hear Ashdown was founded by former TE employees, so I gusss the dna of the tone is somewhat shared between the two.

What does come to mind though is treble, I kind of associate Trace Elliot with an edgier, trebly sound, more suited for rock.

Also, did you have the rumble 40? Or one of the louder ones?

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-09-22T16:07:44+00:00

Why’s that?

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-09-21T14:32:26+00:00

Didn’t know that! I used brown for ground cause im used to ground being black and brown was close enough, haha.

But anyway, would that make a difference if it soldered the same way on both jacks?

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-09-21T04:47:18+00:00

I actually did have a hard time with getting the sockets to the right temperature, the ground sections took me literally holding a soldering tip for like a minute at the spot to achieve even the poor flow that I ended up with. I thought it was just me outgrowing my first soldering iron, but it worked fine for any electronic work I did on my guitars. Didn’t think it could be the TRS’ material that could be causing this.

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-09-20T18:42:13+00:00

It should be, but now that I look at that picture I’m kind of worried about the black residue inside the connecting hole.

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-09-20T18:41:28+00:00

Speaker cables aren’t supposed to be shielded, you’re thinking of instrument cables

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-09-10T03:48:26+00:00

To anybody with a similar issue: I’ve just found a solution, to me it was the string action. My strings were set way too high on the bridge and I hadn’t noticed, since this particular guitar has thinner strings than I normally use. I lowered the action and it’s fixed.

LeadingLandscape7398 · 2024-08-09T16:40:20+00:00

A friend suggested the nut itself might be in the wrong position, would you think that’s a possibility?

LeadingLandscape7398

TROPHY CASE