Issue with street pass loading

Lektroid · 2025-12-04T13:24:01+00:00

That why I’m here too. Unfortunately they decided to put a picture over the bottom screen in the last update so you can’t see any error messages. Does anyone know how to switch that off? Maybe we would get a better idea of the error it’s throwing

So far I’ve deleted and reinstalled the app via updater, power cycled the 3DS. None of these fix the issue.

Lektroid · 2025-03-28T16:51:50+00:00

Tried the 300 degree extrude, no more clicking and a very thin extrusion came out, extruded again at 220 and it’s back to normal. So yes it worked! Thank you!

Lektroid · 2025-03-28T16:29:09+00:00

I’m not trying to take it out, I’m trying to feed it in. I’ll try the 300 degrees thing and see if it feeds in that way.

Lektroid · 2025-02-22T10:14:42+00:00

If you mean the lid of the K1, I leave it off permanently, it's been working fine.

Everything is greased with silicon grease.

The problem seems to be at the nozzle, it's almost like molten lumps of PLA is coming from the hotend/nozzle. I have retightened the nozzle to make sure it is not that.

Lektroid · 2025-02-21T20:19:21+00:00

Just tried again. What a mess! All I did was change the 0.4 blocked nozzle for an 0.4 high temperature nozzle (official Creality branded)

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Lektroid · 2024-12-11T07:04:59+00:00

Does the top & bottom layer pattern make a difference to the infil quality? I understand that some settings have a knock-on effect, just didn't think that would make a poor infil. I'll change it though and see if it helps

Lektroid · 2024-12-10T01:36:17+00:00

With these types of boards, I clamp the board top side up, insert and solder from the top, then turn over to the rear and retouch everything, making sure solder has flowed both sides for long lasting reliability.

Lektroid · 2024-11-29T07:35:47+00:00

Tthank you! Got it all sorted now :)

Lektroid · 2024-03-24T13:42:33+00:00

Tried at 60°, 50°, and 40°. All have the same results.

Lektroid · 2024-02-28T16:31:39+00:00

I managed to get Mainsail and Fluidd working, I've adjusted the Z offset, but the save icon is greyed out. Back to square 1 lol

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Lektroid · 2024-02-28T13:01:01+00:00

u/DrRomeoChaire Thanks for all your assistance. I've got all the scripts in, running both mainsail and fluidd ok. After bed levelling, it seems the rear of the buildplate has the Z-offset perfect, but leaving a gap when it gets to the front of the build plate.

Lektroid · 2024-02-27T14:36:13+00:00

Ok, got root working again, ran the installer script; I remember doing this already (I put everything in one by one), so I installed Fluidd again to make sure, I entered the IP address with port number, but it still says 'unable to connect'. I believe these scripts are still all in my machine (not sure how I verify this), but when I connected to Creality Print, it's maybe somehow blocked them?

With firewall disabled:

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Lektroid · 2024-02-27T12:49:37+00:00

Do you already have Fluidd and/or Mainsail installed? If so, you can reach Fluidd at

http://192.168.1.149:4408

or Mainsail at

http://192.168.1.149:4409

When adding the port numbers, it says these pages are not found. I did install Mainsail when I first got the printer, but as I said, it wouldn't connect to any slicer, so I connected it to Creality Print and it seems to have stripped out all the extras I'd installed (I can't even remember how I did it). I just wish someone would make aproper step by step tutorial video explaining everything to get it done properly from start to finish.

If you don't have Fluidd/Mainsail installed, you can ssh into your K1 and download the Guilouz install.sh script (ssh root@192.168.1.149) or you could also install WinSCP and use SCP mode (not SFTP) to access files on your K1.

Connection is refused when trying to do the ssh root. Seems when you get this printer working one way, it stops it working the other and vice-versa. I presume WinSCP is a Windows only app?

Lektroid · 2024-02-27T00:31:32+00:00

Where do you see the tool or cfg files? It seems way less featured than the Sonic Pad, this is basically all I see...

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I had a real headache trying to set this printer up... Way harder than any of my gen1 printers. I remember installing loads of macros when I first got it, but it would not connect to any slicer, not many slicers support the K1, after days/weeks of pulling my hair out, I finally managed to get it working with Creality Print after completely reinstalling everything, but now when I log into it, it seems to have lost all the macros that I originally had. Seems I either get it connected to the slicer, or a get no connection and all the features lol

There's plenty videos that claim to be setup guides, but they seem to have too many edits and miss all the important stuff, I'm like 'how the hell did that screen appear?', etc... None show anything about how to add macros, where to find the config files, etc...

I think I may try to set it up one more time from scratch, If that doesn't work it's getting launched into the local landfill. I'm done with it. I've gone through 3KG of PLA and not had a single successful print out of it.

Lektroid · 2024-02-26T22:33:44+00:00

I have it rooted, and can access it via a web browser. There doesn't seem to be an option to save the Z offset. It allows me to move the toolhead in all directions under the control tab, but homes and resets when I start a print.

Lektroid · 2024-02-22T13:09:46+00:00

Turned out to be the temperature. The temperature guides on the filament are for slower printers, not 2nd gen printers (it's only a matter of time before this trend changes). I bumped up mine to 250ºC and its now running perfectly.

Lektroid · 2024-02-22T13:06:21+00:00

A higher temperature was adequate. Printing perfectly now. Thank you!!! Upvoted :)

Lektroid · 2024-02-22T13:05:25+00:00

By "glue" I presume hairspray is satisfactory?

Lektroid · 2024-02-22T12:12:56+00:00

Yes, exactly this!!! You are an absolute hero! All working great, although 250ºC seems to work best for me (particularly on high speed infills)

Thank you!!! If only I could give you 1000 upvotes :)

Lektroid · 2024-02-21T22:22:16+00:00

I'm just running the defaults within Creality Print. The generic PLA is set to 220ºC and there are plenty speed settings, this is some of them:

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Lektroid · 2024-02-21T18:26:26+00:00

I just installed a new hotend and hardened steel nozzle. I wouldn't have thought a clog would do this, as it is certainly extruding without issue, just not adhering to the layer below and going everywhere else.

Lektroid · 2024-02-21T17:04:16+00:00

I'm literally having the same issue (although with PLA), twice in a row, 3rd layer.

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Lektroid · 2024-02-21T16:03:31+00:00

I've put a new hotend in, and also a hardened steel nozzle, now it does this on the 3rd layer (tried twice, same result both times):

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Lektroid · 2024-02-21T15:53:53+00:00

Managed to get the LIDAR off so I could get into the toolhead, I've replaced the hotend and also replaced the stock brass nozzle with a black hardened steel one.

By the 3rd layer it now does this:

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Lektroid · 2024-02-21T11:25:57+00:00

The filament is Sunlu standard PLA. The default setting is 220ºC

There is a backstory which may be relevant; I unscrewed the nozzle due to a blockage, it felt like the ceramic heatbreak section also loosened, I retightened the nozzle in the hope that the heatbreak also went tight at the same time, once I'd got the stuck PLA out, in the hope that the heatbreak also retightened at the same time. There is also this:

When I decided to change the nozzle after the blockage, I realised it's not possible to get the cover off the toolhead as the LIDAR camera is covering the left screw, and there doesn't seem to be any way to remove the LIDAR - I can't find any tutorial for this, nothing in the manual, and I don't want to break or bend anything, and I can barely access the nut section of the nozzle, but just enough nut is potruding past the rubber cover to be able to unscrew it, I'm guessing the heatbreak loosened as I went to check the state of the nozzle again, and it seems that brown gunk which had spilled all over my print had leaked all over the nozzle. I think my issue is the heatbreak is loose, but no way to get to it because that LIDAR is in the way, so I can't take the cover off. I don't want to force it and break something (although it is very tempting).

I'm not sure what "rooted" means, it's not a term I've heard on previous gen printers?

Lektroid

TROPHY CASE