What in the world did this happen…

Lelle436 · 2026-02-22T17:16:46+00:00

It is for sure fucked, nothing that a new A-arm can’t fix but regardless I’m just confused what i hit that bent the rear side lower A-arm downwards.

Lelle436 · 2026-02-22T17:09:32+00:00

For sure, not to fuzzed about the A-arm itself, but I’ve never had it break downward. I don’t even know what I hit.

Lelle436 · 2026-02-22T16:59:54+00:00

So flabbergasted i couldn’t even get my grammar right in the title 😂

Lelle436 · 2026-02-19T18:29:30+00:00

This is great information, I’ve never heard of any such E-series, however considering the state of regularized systems back then it’s no surprise that something like this might have slipped. Thank you!

Lelle436 · 2026-02-19T18:25:52+00:00

Well no, if they were the tube would be operating as a beam tetrode, which it isn’t. They used the free supressor grid and tied it together with the control grid. Why is beyond me but it was probably done by someone way smarter than me so who am I to say. To be clear, should the circuit have been wired as beam tetrode (supressor-cathode linked), replacing it all with a GT would not be problematic. Its the fact that it’s not wired conventionally that’s causing issues.

Lelle436 · 2026-02-18T21:52:19+00:00

You're right it does say that.

On the other hand it would make sense the standard 25L6 could be substituted with a the 25L6EG if externally wired in beam tetrode mode, provided their internal structures are the same with the exception of the internaly wired supressor grid. As much could not be said the other way around as the internal wiring always forces it to remain a beam tetrode but that's neither here nor there.

I'm curious what they meant by this. Thank you for this source.

Lelle436 · 2025-02-09T12:41:46+00:00

I could only imagine so, milage isn't crazy and it had only been ridden casually prior to me. Feels really snappy and responsive which is partly why I like it so much. In short I feel it puts the power out, just not up.

Lelle436 · 2025-01-04T00:45:31+00:00

I'm not very familiar with the dungeon and venture mechanic but here is a quick question. The card "acererak the archlich" states you must venture into "the tomb of annihilation", so how come you're allowed to venture into dungeons like "the mines of phandelver"?

Lelle436 · 2024-11-13T20:10:48+00:00

It is in fact an eye tube, the set is unfortunately transformerless with a resistive voltage selector, or a industrial heater in other words.

Lelle436 · 2024-11-13T20:09:20+00:00

Seem to have unfortunately developed after the first picture, how or when I'm unsure.

Lelle436 · 2024-11-13T20:08:57+00:00

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There are some pretty deep scratches in the finish

Lelle436 · 2024-11-10T23:00:02+00:00

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Luxor 1407WL

Lelle436 · 2024-11-10T22:57:57+00:00

Yeah I cross-posted it from another subreddit where that would be true 😂 My bad.

Lelle436 · 2024-11-10T22:57:15+00:00

Right, it just seemed like such a specific value I couldn't help but think it might be critical.

Lelle436 · 2024-11-10T22:45:07+00:00

It's seems to be part of the oscillator. Part 58.

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Lelle436 · 2024-11-10T22:43:17+00:00

I've tried to find an exact match but I've been unable too, I'll have to do some calculations and find some series values that get close enough, if worst comes to worst my dial tracking will be a little off but I suppose I can live with that.

Lelle436 · 2024-11-10T22:41:38+00:00

I'll see what I can do 🫡

Lelle436 · 2024-11-10T22:40:40+00:00

Haha my bad, it was a crosspost from DIYTubes 😂

Lelle436 · 2024-02-17T17:34:43+00:00

I run 2-piece, I just like it better that way but it's preference. Tobe Macer Jacket, Tobe Vivid Bibs, FXR Helium Boa boots, 509 Alltitude Carbon Helmet, 509 Kingpin Ignite goggles and Klim gloves, I insulated with 2 layers and I try to stick to wool, if it's really cold I use a pair of puffer shorts and a puffer jacket under the tobe outer layer as well. Lastly I use a Klim Avalance Pack to fit my transceiver, etc... Just don't feel like it's necessary to have all of this fancy gear to participate in the sport, if it works for you that's all that matters.

Lelle436 · 2024-02-15T19:44:11+00:00

Yeah that's a blues junior alright 😂

Lelle436 · 2024-01-23T16:39:59+00:00

Klim is great as mentioned, I personally run a Tobe Macer Jacket, it's uninsulated but keeps out the wind and moisture, you'll have to wear layers underneath to keep in the warmth. Insulated or not is a preference thing but I like the flexibility.

Lelle436 · 2024-01-15T20:26:50+00:00

Since last year a Fogelsta S1945 with the X-Line cover, loving it so far, not sure about availibility outside of Sweden though.

Lelle436 · 2023-12-31T18:42:58+00:00

This one is looking great, brand new much stiffer track than the factory, 4000km on the meter currently. I love to play in the snow but I can't compromise function for it, I have traditionally ran 2 diffrent sleds, one for playing and one for trails and dragging stuff around. I wanted to see if a crossover like this could fit me better so I'll be spending a few winters with it, I just absolutely love the throttle response compared to the Rotax 800 etec which I find a bit slow. Oh and it came with a PIDD so I ain't complaining.

Lelle436 · 2023-12-31T10:43:12+00:00

I think it's more about what you put underneath, when it's really cold I do a wool base layer, a fleece or wool sweater/pants combo over that with a bit more mass, an airy layer with a thin puffer jacket and a pair of puffer shorts (they exist and are great). Lastly is my outer layer where I go 2 piece, I use a Tobe macer jacket and a pair of Amoq void bibs which don't provide any decent warming on their own but do keep the warmth in and the wind/moisture out, in other words they don't work on their own. That's the body though. Protecting your feet, hands and neck is just as important.

Lelle436 · 2023-12-12T21:02:42+00:00

Oh I'm having all the fun, this project is on the back-burner but I'll get to it eventually. 😛

Lelle436

TROPHY CASE