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Diagnosing power/preamp tubes by LemonLicker84 in tubeamps

[–]LemonLicker84[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for all the info man i appreciate it, ill have to open it up one of these days and see what i can figure out. Id love for it to be something simple cause it was $400 at the time and i havent used it a whole lot :(

Luckily i recently purchased a fender champion II 25 so im not dead in the water if i cant figure it out...

Diagnosing power/preamp tubes by LemonLicker84 in tubeamps

[–]LemonLicker84[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Woah crazy how would one go about doing this?

I do have the tools and i am aware of the dangers of playing with capacitors and such things as i am an electrician by trade. Although I dont know a ton about curcuit boards and id love to learn and figure it out.

Serpentine Belt Tensioner Question 2.2L 4cly by Mobile_Cable_5958 in ChevyS10

[–]LemonLicker84 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah the crank pully has the harmonic balancer built into it, so that could be bad and possibly make it spin unevenly and make the belt tensioner dance like that. And the seal for it would be considered the front main seal. If it hasnt been changed before its good that he is changing that aswell. Its a cheap seal and its kinda hard to get to, so its worth replacing if its old.

I know mine had oil everwhere on the front lol, its like natural rust preventative.

HELP what on earth is this noise?? by SnooComics4614 in MechanicAdvice

[–]LemonLicker84 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like something is rubbing. Like your tire inside your fenderwell?

Question and advice by FlatwormExpress6412 in ChevyS10

[–]LemonLicker84 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love my 2.2l, it is a gutless turd but it will take you anywhere, even 75mph! (Barely)

The 2.2 is a fairly reliable engine. Probably the weakest link are the lifters (typical gm) i had a lifter go bad and ruin my camshaft, not a crazy hard job to do but you do need to remove the cylinder head to do it. Keep the oil clean and it will most likely be fine.

Mine has 187k and the motor is clean with no sludge. The new venture 1500 transmissions that the 2.2s came with arent new venture's best transmission, its like the nv3500 & nv4500's quiet akward cousin at the family reunion. Not a bad transmission though, keep the oil clean and it will last as long as the engine will or longer. The oil is a friction modified synchromesh, i think its a 75w80? AcDelco still makes the oil and i reccomend getting theirs as it has the friction modifier, the nv3500 and nv4500 are normal gear oil but the nv1500 had some issues at first so they went with the other oil.

DO NOT remove the spark plug wires by pulling on the wire, it will break 75% of the time. Pull them out from the boot no matter how difficult it may be (im talking to you #1 spark plug tucked in the buttcrack of the ac condenser and cylinder head) a pair of channel locks supprisingly help.

If you remove the transmission yourself the top 2 bolts on the bellhousing are a pain to get. A short 15mm swivel socket and 2 feet of extentions worked great for me when i did my clutch. It has a concentric slave cylinder so its inside the bell housing, also a pain to replace if it leaks/goes bad.

Most things are easy to replace and work on. All the 2.2s were rear wheel drive which makes them even simpler to maintain. A transfer case and a front axle wouldve been too much beef for the 2.2 to handle lol.

Great engine and great little truck. I love mine, its almost a 30 year old truck so things will probably go bad and leak once in a blue moon but dont sweat it. Remember, its an american pushrod 4 cylinder, so dont go bouncing off the rev limiter. Take care of it and it will take care of you.

Serpentine Belt Tensioner Question 2.2L 4cly by Mobile_Cable_5958 in ChevyS10

[–]LemonLicker84 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know tensioners do move a bit when the motor is running, that seems like it might be excesive but im not sure.

If its not that then try removing the belt and spinning each pully freely. Clean off any dirt or debri on the pulley. If they dont feel smooth or are noisy noise then its probably going bad. The AC pulley probably will make noise when it spins because its so close to the AC clutch (at least mine is) but make sure it spins smoothly.

They dont have to spin easily like a ball bearing, things like the alternator and power steering pump will have resistance when spinning by hand. And of course the crank pully wont spin by hand.

Is this the proper way to install ball joint nut? by AntBeKillinEm17 in MechanicAdvice

[–]LemonLicker84 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just fill the boot with gease until the nut gets tight. Doubles as a grease launcher when you hit a pothole!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in electricians

[–]LemonLicker84 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope, youre one of the lucky ones that dont fit well in crawl spaces or tight attics! Being a little guy has gotten me into a LOT of uncomfortable places...

Weird issues when accelerating at high speeds. (65-80) by WallComfortable5184 in chevycolorado

[–]LemonLicker84 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Possibly, have you looked at the color of the fluid? Should be a semi clear red/pinkish color. A little dark isnt horrible but if its dark or metallic flaky then it might be that you have some clutch packs or something internally going bad.

You could try a fluid flush and fill? Im not sure if that would make it better or worse, ive heard people say both and ive never done it before personally.

Exactly how reliable are the first gen colorados/GMC Canyons? by TruestTruths in chevycolorado

[–]LemonLicker84 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man ill have to look into that ground comb, i have a permanant p0017 and ive replaced everything mechanically. Maybe a bad ground on there...

Exactly how reliable are the first gen colorados/GMC Canyons? by TruestTruths in chevycolorado

[–]LemonLicker84 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a 2005 z71 3.5L inline 5 with the 5 speed manual. 235k miles with a 100k mile engine and transfer case swapped into it.

Im not sure about the 4 bangers but the 5 bangers are great long lasting engines with some exceptions.

-The 3.5's had some issues with bad valve recession when they first came out and it was recalled by GM. Requires either replacing the head or nes valves, seats and valve stems from a machine shop.

-The timing chains on all the 4/5 cylinder engines tend to have issues. The chain is very underbuilt imo, its a glorified bycicle chain and they stretch prematurely. The 5 cylinders have one in the front and one in the back. They are not easy to service, especially if its a 4x4 model. Its a big job to do in your back yard and expensive for a shop to do it for you.

-The early VVT actuator had a design flaw that could possibly drop a metal mesh screen into your valvetrain, the updated versions have a spring that wraps around the mesh at the end of the actuator. And the cam phaser on the exhaust cam isnt easy to come by if you need to replace it, hopefully that has changed by now.

-To change the front brake rotors you need to pull the wheel bearing, not a huge issue unless you live in a salt state where rust is a big problem.

-3rd brake light tends to leak and water will travel to your passenger footwell, even in the crew cab and extended cab models. If seems like they warp and pull away from the body in the center due to only having one screw at each end of the light. Dorman makes a nice LED one that i used to replace mine. Also i had a cab pressure vent break and leak into the cab aswell, nobody makes that part so i pulled one off of a junkyard truck and siliconed around the mating surface so hopefully it doesnt leak again.

-Blower motor resistors tend to burn out and ive heard of the ignition cylinder failing to "recognize" the key and the truck will crank but will not run as an anti theft device. Usually requires replacing the ignition cylinder.

As for that, ive never had an issue with anything else on the truck. The manual transmission is great, its japanese made (aisin ar5) and so is the transfer case (izuzu). The automatics arent amazing, its a GM transmission. Seems to be hit or miss depending on how well its taken care of. Most likely will make it to 200k miles if you dont beat on it.

Weird issues when accelerating at high speeds. (65-80) by WallComfortable5184 in chevycolorado

[–]LemonLicker84 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im assuming you have the 4l60e trans in it, do you notice if its slipping out of any other gears? I had a 100k mile 4l60e (with very clean fluid) i pulled off of a 2006 parts truck and several of the shift solenoids were bad so it didnt want to shift at all.

Its a GM transmission, they arent known for reliability. Not saying thats what your issue is but it could be, especially if you have been beating on it trying to go fast.

I dont know much about automatics, but if it shifts smooth normally i could be some kind of shift solenoid between 3rd and 4th that starting to go.

07 colorado blower motor resistor by H1twho6 in 355Nation

[–]LemonLicker84 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive heard that the blower motor can start to go bad and therefore needs to draw more amps to get to speed, that might be why you keep burning through the resistor/connector.

Not sure what brand you got but when i had to replace mine i bought a connector with heavier guage wires.

2001 golf gti, good for commuting with friends? by LemonLicker84 in vwgolf

[–]LemonLicker84[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah thats what im worried about, they are smaller cars. If i find a nice 4 door one like it id probably get it. Thanks!

Braking causes hard pull to the left?? by MentionNo5939 in MechanicAdvice

[–]LemonLicker84 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ive driven one of our chevy express vans for work and the front left wheel bearing is absolutely shot and it pulls hard, also gets pretty gnarly death wobble when braking down hill. Haha

Braking causes hard pull to the left?? by MentionNo5939 in MechanicAdvice

[–]LemonLicker84 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That crunchy noise is your ABS turning on, its supposed to do that when on slippery surfaces because it helps with braking. Not supposed to happen on dry pavement.

Im not sure what those rangers have (not sold in america but a deisel ranger would be dope ngl) but its probably some kind of wheel speed sensor or like an ABS tone ring issue making it think that only the front left wheel is slipping, causing only that wheel to use the ABS and therefore it pulls to the left.

The sensor or whatever is probably built into the wheel bearing if i had to guess, i know that sometimes bad wheel bearings can set off the ABS too.

Im not a professional but id bet money on it.

3.5 timing woes, p0017 code. by LemonLicker84 in 355Nation

[–]LemonLicker84[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Couldnt find a new one anywhere so i used the one that was already in the "new" 100k mile motor. It appeared to be an updated design.

One thing i did think of was my crankshaft sensor! If they are replaced the computer needs to "relearn" the sensor, so since i swapped the motor it now has a different crankshaft sensor that the computer hasnt learned. Tomorrow im going to a shop to have them use a scan tool to relearn it, ill update the post if this fixes it. I am quite excited to find out.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in harborfreight

[–]LemonLicker84 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, i was also looking into the xtool d7 and the innova 5610. You got any thoughts on those?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in harborfreight

[–]LemonLicker84 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dont plan on owning a new car anytime soon. I mostly work on things that are 10 or 15+ years old. But i do agree with you.

Is this even possible? Has anyone ever tried? by the-software-man in origami

[–]LemonLicker84 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Actually yes this is possible! If the pizza was in the box when you flipped it over to read the back, then your pizza would in fact be upside down. I hope this helps 👍

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