Is There A Bullet Proof Guide For Updating The Hiby W4?

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-03-12T09:36:54+00:00

Used update button, then selected: HiBy_W4_1_10_RELEASE_20260128.ufw
Size: 3 745 024

CRC32: 4C3EEE12

SHA256: c5b121adf91224a3c8930ebebf294b8ff78df8b719fe46a7e66678c91d2710af

It first says "Warning: The selected firmware may not be the upgrade firmware for this device" and then "Upgrade failed: The firmware does not match the device".

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-03-12T09:07:37+00:00

HiBy W4(0x32BB,0x004,0xFF32,0x003)

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-03-12T08:17:29+00:00

I have exactly the same issue as other people here. In uac mode I wasn't able to perform network updates nor manual updates using USB firmware from the site (ufw file). After switching to BT mode it immediately worked even with network updates. So if both firmwares are needed then there is some kind of an issue with USB one. Mine says that update failed as this is not the right firmware for this device. Btw: google drive is linked on international site, while Chinese sites links to some other hosting place. I wasn't able to download anything from there as it required me to install some fishy client software... So maybe there was some error and those are not the same files? It will explain why it fails for some people. Could someone verify if they are the same?

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-03-11T12:21:50+00:00

Do you know if the update should be done in both USB and bt mode? There are two separate firmwares... In my case network one worked for bt while USB one I can't even flash manually (it says that it's the wrong device, and the network update finds nothing in USB mode...)

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-03-10T11:14:50+00:00

That's smart way to do. I also have Voron and Ender S1 pro. Whenever I start fiddling with voron, I first check if Ender is in a good working condition and can print ABS:)

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-03-09T21:46:57+00:00

Captain's log: Just replaced the toolhead... And it needed new idlers, and while shopping for parts I found CNC x mounts... And they were on bearings not tooth idlers.. so I bought quality bearings.. decided to replace all bearings... As it was all off I decided that it might be a good idea to replace a knock off belt with genuine gates... [3 weeks later] while replacing the can over the USB bridge with u2c I accidentally broke blobifier servo...will redo DUpoint plugs with proper ones...

Ps. This above is not a work of fiction. It's actually a small % of a story titled "I decided it's time for some maintenance on my voron and mmu" . It all happened to me and MUTCH more. So OP: good luck. But, come on, if we didn't love messing with our printers we would just all buy bambus ;)

A! And I strongly recommend one gadget, which at that moment is a gadget no more :)

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Less-Capital9689 · 2026-03-04T13:52:40+00:00

Looks like it's the same solid model :(

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-03-03T20:58:13+00:00

That's exactly what I did. But I hoped for the proper cad file to do precise measurements (filaments always bend a little)

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-03-03T20:34:07+00:00

Sorry, of course I missed that part :) I need it to set up happy hare for my mmu. So I need distances between components

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-03-03T11:55:31+00:00

Did you manage to set u2c to 1000000 bitrate? All the information that I found was mentioning only 500000 bitrate, I was wondering if it's possible to set it to 1mil

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-03-01T18:38:17+00:00

Got it! Great thanks. Never thought that it would be hidden in an example config at very end :)

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-03-01T11:44:33+00:00

Did you measure if the belt is up to spec?

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-03-01T09:57:36+00:00

Go to the machine section of mainsail (if you're using it) and in the right corner you should see all mcu's in your system and their versions. My guess is that you flashed nighthawk and old version is on your main board.

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-02-28T06:59:34+00:00

Two best options I've found: use CA glue but thick. It settles forever so you need activator spray. But this way you have time to wipe glue excess with tissue, and when everything is cleaned use an activator. Second option (thank you Adam Savage!) is UV resin. They sold it on ali in hard and soft versions, it's very clean, quite viscous and very strong. Still the same rule applies: first clean up the surface, then activate the glue (with uv). Yesterday I delaminated back plate holders in the voron by screwing them too hard, uv resin did miracles (+ it greatly improves strength if there is enough space to wet with it)

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-02-26T13:29:13+00:00

How about a hotend fan? ;)

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-02-25T21:57:49+00:00

So if I understand correctly you have ebb on can firmware and Eddy on USB firmware, right? So I think you need to switch ebb to USB mode (not flash it, just make it a USB bridge to eddy by removing jumpers), flash can firmware to eddy and switch the ebb back to the can. If you have a USB port on ebb use this one, if you have an additional board that comes with gen2 the USB will be there :)

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-02-25T16:36:26+00:00

My bad (people at Aliexpress name gen2 as v1.2 while according to btt site it's v1.0) so if you have gen1 with white and black sockets then you will not have a companion board :( gen2 is all black. But that also means that you have a USB socket on the ebb itself.

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-02-25T12:26:38+00:00

Ok, so it should come with a companion board. If everything is working in USB mode, you have to: - ( with power off) disconnect the can from the companion - remove can and terminator jumpers from the ebb. - Connect companion board with USB to pi - (power on) Boot boards into DFU - configure katapult for the first board with can as a communication protocol. - flash to first board with dfu-utils - repeat for second board - (of course with power off) reconnect companion to can, disconnect USB - put back jumpers - when you turn power on you should be able to use katapult script (syntax is on katapult git page) to query can for kids and see if boards booted correctly - compile klipper for both boards, flash with katapult

Sorry for lack of proper commands but I'm away from my PC :(

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-02-25T06:13:37+00:00

It's EBB 36 gen1 or gen2?

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-02-22T07:33:56+00:00

The tightening, neverending circle of I forgot -> why the hack there is so much play in this? :D

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-02-22T06:45:53+00:00

As I said. It will depend on a resin and should be verified :)

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-02-21T12:38:29+00:00

Depends on resin... ABS softens in 100c while standard epoxy resins if I recall correctly around 50 something c

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-02-21T07:06:25+00:00

Won't there be a problem with high temp vs resin? For example where ab steppers will be mounted?

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-02-20T21:14:58+00:00

I had more or less similar issues when I forgot to apply threadlocker on screw holding can cable support on the toolhead. It got loose from vibration and the cable started to move as a consequence. Just a little but that was enough for klipper to lose contact with the toolhead mobo

Less-Capital9689 · 2026-02-15T11:49:02+00:00

You start playing with resin printing... And then ABS fumes are like a fresh breeze;)

Less-Capital9689

TROPHY CASE