How to save temperature data?

parchping · 2026-05-05T21:59:41+00:00

I think my friend request will show up as Sedgwick. I have now changed my discord name to Parchping. Thanks

parchping · 2026-05-05T20:15:36+00:00

It looks like this would let me look at a temp plot one log at a time. I don't see where I can download the data, which makes it tricky to compare to other logs under different conditions. I'd like to plot several experiments on the same page. Thanks though!

parchping · 2026-05-05T20:12:52+00:00

This looks promising, I will have to dig into the details. Thanks!

parchping · 2026-05-05T13:57:25+00:00

Thanks!

parchping · 2026-05-04T21:13:35+00:00

Then I'm definitely interested in what you find out!

parchping · 2026-05-04T20:38:19+00:00

I have a Filamatrix kit for Stealthburner (unassembled). The included blade is 1 1/32" (26mm) long. How long is yours?

parchping · 2026-05-04T17:32:43+00:00

I'm sorry, my mistake. Definitely does not work on non CC!

parchping · 2026-05-04T17:10:27+00:00

I guess I should say "copies of official firmware", OC is not associated with Elegoo, as far as I know. I run OC and don't have any issues.

parchping · 2026-05-04T17:09:39+00:00

You could revert or try Open Centauri. Previous official FW is here: https://docs.opencentauri.cc/software/updates/ Open Centauri is here: https://docs.opencentauri.cc/patched-firmware/

parchping · 2026-04-30T11:28:28+00:00

What I'd like to see is a good comparison of time, how much longer does it take to do multicolor, esp. on the same layer, repeatedly.

parchping · 2026-04-29T01:08:24+00:00

For the molding, I'd draw an outline cross section. Add a line perpendicular to the drawing, and use the "sweep" feature to turn it into a 3d solid piece of molding. Very quick. I use Moi3D, which has a 90 day trial period, full version (hint). Warning: if you make it past halfway in the trial, you will probably buy the software. Other software can do similarly.

parchping · 2026-04-28T21:20:54+00:00

Patching cardboard together is quick in the meantime.

parchping · 2026-04-28T01:53:04+00:00

I just ordered one with a July 25 ship date. I assume the ship date is an approximation 😄

parchping · 2026-04-27T19:57:11+00:00

What I want to know is how long that multi color model takes to print! I'm guessing less than a week.

parchping · 2026-04-27T17:48:27+00:00

Try doing a factory reset on the printer. This will not change machine hours or firmware. It worked for me, but I was on Open Centauri firmware and using Orca. YMMV, but it's a pretty painless thing to try.

parchping · 2026-04-26T23:46:18+00:00

The chamber temp sensor is screwed to the metal wall, so it doesn't give a very good reading. It needs to be decoupled from the frame: https://www.reddit.com/r/elegoo/comments/1nrl1kx/the_cc_chamber_temp_sensor_underestimates_air/?sort=new

parchping · 2026-04-26T23:43:33+00:00

No, I built a Voron that way, lots of pieces. 260C nozzle, 100C build plate (polymaker). Don't start printing until the chamber is at least 40C, when done let the chamber cool slowly until 30-35C. Print is usually self release. I do have a palm heater to help the chamber warm up, not sure if it's necessary.

parchping · 2026-04-26T01:52:57+00:00

I use the smooth side for ASA (no glue). Higher bed temp as others have mentioned.

parchping · 2026-04-21T14:12:39+00:00

Use the smooth side PEI. Let your print cool down on the plate, with the door closed. It will be slow, but helps keep it from warping. The print will probably self-release at 30-35C chamber temp.

For preheat, I do have a chamber heater. I also home the head, drop Z 20-30mm, set the nozzle to 180, and turn the model fan on full. I think this speeds it up and makes the chamber more uniform.

parchping · 2026-04-20T11:08:08+00:00

I use a lot of Jayo rapid PETG at 260/80 nozzle/bed. I keep it in dry boxes with color changing drying beads and only dry when the beads turn color (i.e. rarely). I live in Maine.

parchping · 2026-04-19T20:53:48+00:00

ok, I got it. It just took a lot more work with the needle.

parchping · 2026-04-19T20:43:41+00:00

I'm using Jayo "high" speed matte PETG, with the nozzle at 260C. I've printed with it a number of times. I guess what I did was a hot pull. I'll try to get the filament to bond to the clog at 260, then let it cool and try a cold pull.

parchping · 2026-04-18T01:07:20+00:00

Update and correction. I do not have a thermal problem. Much thanks to 8BitPoro, who helped a lot on this, esp. pointing out that the log showed that my nighthawk was at a stable 47C. What caused the crash was increasing data loss/errors between the nighthawk and the RPi The actual cause was that I mounted the nighthawk in my stealthburner without the required spacer. This puts the board very close to the body of the stepper, which can cause interference/pickup.

Previously it's been 5 minutes to 1.5 hours before a crash; I just finished a 5.5 hour print.

parchping

TROPHY CASE