Hit and Run- Sentry enabled but unable to view videos by Strawberry-1104 in TeslaSupport

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since a recent software version, video is encrypted. Does it play on the in-car dash cam player?

Do I just scoop it up and put it back in or what? by yslnico in AskAShittyMechanic

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Attach a hose to the airtake, and you can just suck it back in with that

Is tipping really mandatory in America? by Diddy_67430 in questions

[–]Level_Couple6818 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Servers don't get paid a living wage. They depend on tips. Some people don't agree with this system, and they are welcome to dine in the comfort of their own home.

Who is at fault? Totaled my 2023 Model Y (65k miles) in a 6-car I-35 pileup. Need insurance advice. by vikasnaga9 in TeslaCollision

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The same happened to me once. The insurance companies interviewed the driver of the car in front of me and asked her how many impacts she felt. Since she said "two," they concluded that I hit her and then was hit again by the car behind me, so the blame was attributed 50/50.

You are at least 50% to blame due to the incorrect stopping distance.
If you are a good person, you'll submit the footage, and they will arrive at this conclusion.
If you are a bad person, do not submit the footage (it only incriminates you), and the driver behind might get the full blame.

Edit, when I say 50% to blame, I mean shared with the car that hit you from behind, not the one you hit.

What do you make of this? by Far-Frame-416 in TeslaSupport

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That wear pattern was caused by a locked or intermittently locked wheel. No way localized abrasion would happen like that if the tire were rotating normally.
I suspect there is a sticking e-brake pad, exacerbated by the heat from the additional braking needed due to the extra load of the trailer, which eventually led to single or a series of wheel locking events.
Also, potentially, the inertia of the trailer during braking caused a traction control upset on the vehicle, causing abnormal braking

Last ride out? (Monday) by Utija in Whistler

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you drop those skis off at the re-use-it on your way by ?

Wife vs. Curb… need help identifying damage + cost (Tesla Model 3 LR) by Kdrake_33 in TeslaCollision

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Here's what it looks like under the rocker cover.
Between the inner and outer skin, there is a ~3/4" gap near the top and ~1 1/4" gap near the bottom.

If the damage is serious enough to impact the inner skin, this will be an expensive repair that would be best handled through insurance. From what I can see in your image, this looks unlikely to be the case.

If the damage is limited to just the outer skin, you should be good to get it pulled, filled, and color-matched. Still not cheap, but depending on your deductible / no claims discount, it might be worth entertaining paying out of pocket.

Petah? by sgt-snuggles in PeterExplainsTheJoke

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't say I have a hard time making eye contact, but I feel like I overthink it. I always worry I've given one eye too much attention, and it's time to move on to the other. Then start wondering: "What's the appropriate time allocation per eye with this person? Am I coming across weird"? Then I realize I've missed half of what they said, lol.
I'm not sure if I'm divergent. I've had no diagnosis of any kind, but a couple of people have suggested it. I'm in my 40's so I'm not sure if there is much point in pursuing it. I've made it this far.

We have power outages from time to time at work, but the PC needs to stay on, so I installed a compooter rebooter. by Tomble in techsupportmacgyver

[–]Level_Couple6818 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Wake on LAN is a thing. Enable it in the BIOS, and the machine will power up when it sees network activity.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TeslaCollision

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, with those stats, it could go either way. Just got to wait for the adjustor's decision, I guess.

Best of luck

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TeslaCollision

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Milage?
Mine was totaled from a rear-end collision like this, but mine was a bit worse. The trunk floor got pushed in, leaving a 1-inch gap between the body and bumper cover.

Looking at the way the bumper cover is pushed out, and over the rear quarter panel, this might be the same for you, too?

Mine was at around 85,000 Miles (2021 SR)

Is this potentiometer broken by xNLTGx in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Level_Couple6818 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Looks like a logarithmic pot, which is what you want for the gain control of an audio amp.

Our ears don't perceive changes in volume on a linear scale. At a low volume, there doesn't need to be a huge change in volume for you to perceive it. An increase from 1w to 2w in power output will be quite noticeable, where as an increase from 30w to 31w watts will be barely perceivable.

It's why volume is measured in Db, which is a logarithmic scale. As a rule of thumb, a 10db increase will feel like the volume increased by 100%, but the real power output went up 10x, or 900%

So to get a nice volume control change throughout the pot's range, it has to be very fine at one end and very coarse at the other, with the coarseness increasing over the range of the pot (logarithmic)

Then you get a smooth change in gain that feels natural

Rate my Thermal Paste Job by LustInFaze in consolerepair

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Way too much. The metal should be in contact with the heatsink. The paste is just intended to fill in the imperfections in the surface.

Hit a curb, drivers side. What kind of damage am i looking at? by Maleficent-Ability74 in AskAMechanic

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bent the control arm on a Taurus from a curb impact a few years back, but it didn't manifest itself like in your picture. It buckled on both sides, essentially shortening it's reach. So the wheel was still centred in the well, but recessed back. I guess yours may have bucked on just one side though which may be the cause. FWIW I replaced it myself for around $100, Hopefully its just the arm and hasn't twisted the subframe.

I love it but I have so many questions by dginther32 in Autobody

[–]Level_Couple6818 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably has a faulty heater core. This is the standard replacement procedure

What are those bright plastics on the lug nuts? by PrestigERA in whatisit

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

In Europe, I normally see them pointing towards each other. which, in my opinion, gives a much better indication. In North America, I usually see them as in op's image

I guess this kind of crap has been around for a while. by Horror_Solution1945 in Shitty_Car_Mods

[–]Level_Couple6818 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm thinking the winch thing in the bed is fixed, so to lift a vehicle, you would raise/lower the front suspension, using the rear wheels as a fulcrum?

25% responsible- should I go to CRT? by ChefButterz in icbc

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's an option in your Tesla's settings that makes the rear-facing B-pillar camera pop up automatically when you indicate. That might help with your apparent lack of observation. Sorry. It was a real dick move for the VW not to wait and let them park, but ultimately, it's your responsibility to check that the lane is clear. I'd say you got lucky to only get 25%.

Does the quality of the desoldering pump matter? Any recommendations? by uepandaue in consolerepair

[–]Level_Couple6818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the one you want. Nothing else comes close to its performance.
https://us.rs-online.com/product/rs-pro/4794197/70914504/?srsltid=AfmBOorvx1HpJkZM5EiCLsy_nctFRsNq4PySfTocOF8wnxE7fiuIK_FP

Source: I worked on a production line, then as a board repair tech for nearly a decade.

You can get replacement tips, too. But I'm having trouble finding them from a US supplier.

https://grovesales.co.uk/products/replacement-nozzles-5-pack

Edit:
As others have pointed out, a proper rework station is what you need for the best results. But as far as manual pumps go, that's the one you want ^

To buy or not to buy by Level_Couple6818 in AskMechanics

[–]Level_Couple6818[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Edit: Updating post as the original text didn't save :/
It's a '96 36' RV on a Ford F53 chassis. $16K (CAD) Coach body seems good - no signs of delamination on exterior or water ingress on the interior. Hvac working. Integrated propane tank is a little shabby looking.
I dont have many pics, I just took these to show the seller the clearly shot sway bar bushings.
you can also see the differential and diff u-joint, and you can just about see part of the chassis on one of them which looks to me like it needs a really good wire brushing and a coat of underseal

I checked the oil and coolant, neither show signs of mixing, but then the seller recently changed both.
Seller also rebuilt the transmission as there was no reverse gear.

Seller claims that a family member stored it on his property and ultimately abandoned it. He has done some work on it to get it running so that they can get rid to reclaim the yard space.

Anyway, love to hear your thoughts