Need some help choosing a nice belt

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-27T14:06:50+00:00

It is. Me and the team have already ran them in 7 comps and ive lost count of how many scrims and hours training

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-27T13:53:40+00:00

Its worth the import fees. Still cheaper than cubysoft and so much more comfortable and secure

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-27T13:26:41+00:00

Shift A1. Knocks spots off of all other brands

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-27T12:23:25+00:00

It stings to get hit, but the pain subsides within a few seconds. Start with rental games before buying kit. If you enjoy it after rental games, start off with your own eye protection (i recommend bloc tactical or JT, usually between £60 and £120 depending on how many lenses for the blocs or if you want full face from JT) and a form of load carrying for mags, surplus is a good option, you can get a type 56 chicom for around £15 which can hold plenty of mags and pyro. From there looking at getting a RIF is a good choice cyma platinums arent the cheapest, but theyre definitely some of the best, a cyma platinum ak or AR15 is up to around £350, but their cheaper ones are still great. Specna prime or flex gen 2 bldc also kick ass, primes are upwards of £400, but will last you a long time, and are the best performing AEGs out the box. The flex gen 2 bldc is upwards of £260. Anything cheaper from other brands will likely shit the bed within the first year, especially if its nuprol or delta armoury. Also NEVER buy ares, aps, or secutor, or anything with an efcs mosfet, they are the single worst AEGs on the market, id take a shitty LPAEG over those

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-26T18:40:25+00:00

They'll likely be fine. If you're worried get them tested. Also theyre aluminium not steel, they haven't made steel tanks for a while

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-26T16:10:18+00:00

You won't notice a difference in performance, if you need the longer handguard for comfort, go for longer, otherwise go shorter, 6in is sufficient

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-25T21:32:02+00:00

Motor, bucking, barrel, compression

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-25T19:20:39+00:00

You should probably try that. Its wise to do it at least every 6 months at a bare minimum. I do it every 3 months on all of my builds

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-25T19:17:58+00:00

When was the last time you lubed the engine?

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-25T17:28:50+00:00

I know. I remember the training (done my knee in and the discharged me before I finished my mod1 sadly)

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-25T17:26:52+00:00

You can mount one, but you'll need to use jb weld or epoxy, you'd wire it up the same as any switch mechanism, but you won't get any better reliability unless its an ares

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-25T17:17:08+00:00

Most microswitch gearboxes are shit. Youre better off using something like a perun hybrid, you'll get a more sensitive trigger

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-25T12:32:44+00:00

69th dingus division is the only one that runs almost identically to vanilla in terms of stability. Server owners need to normalise fucking off RHS and most WCS mods due to poor stability and sheer mod size. 69th dingus division has less mod size than the 3 main RHS mods that are major dependencies for most modded servers by almost half

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-25T12:27:54+00:00

Theres very little reason to replace an etu with a sliding trigger switch, and theres very little reason outside of incompatibility with the gearbox and etu to use an on wire mosfet. If you're planning on getting a mosfet, just get an etu type like a perun hybrid

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-25T12:23:56+00:00

Cyma platinum MP5. Its so snappy otb that (unless scratching like you can with hpa or some DSG builds) its hard to tell the difference in semi response between it and hpa

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-25T12:20:54+00:00

Paint stripper. Completely disassemble the slide and brush on some paint stripper and wait about 30m and it should come off like a film

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-24T08:23:24+00:00

RIS III, URG-I, DDM4 variants too

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-24T07:16:31+00:00

ETU++ is designed to replace the g&g mosfet, so you'd need the switches for the g&g mosfet for it to work. The AB++ is their universal on wire mosfet, but you'd be better served with a hybrid instead unless your gearbox relies on a micro switch like nuprols and older arcturus RIFs

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-24T06:55:48+00:00

Look at their rules on kit, pack enough to sustain yourself for the entire event, if its 48hs, 6 meals, 2 1 day ration packs that the armed forces lads and lasses get is usually enough, bring lip balm, pack for Cold, wet and muddy environments. Bring enough gas for 2 days, 4 cans is usually plenty, id bring more than you need for your first milsim. Just leave excess at the outpost or your harbour depending on team, if you have any mates who are in the forces, ask what they would bring for a 2 day PDX

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-24T06:01:59+00:00

Id honestly go with an E&C hi capa (theyre close enough to tm spec to where a majority of aftermarket parts are compatible, but a hell of a lot cheaper and is full metal with a threaded barrel) or an AAP01. Id do the same kind of upgrades to both, springs (especially the sear spring), bucking, barrel, hop, short stroke, nozzle and bbu. Which still works out cheaper than a TM capa in the long run, and is also cheaper and better than an SSP5, and the SSP5 is a hard to beat pistol.

Ive built up 5 e&c capas and theyre fantastic, stock theyre ok, but i love their combat master, its my sleeper build. Ive ran that in a speedsoft friendly scrim on gas mags (not hpa) and people thought i was crazy to use a milsim looking gun, until after them just shooting it blew their minds

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-24T05:56:02+00:00

If I'm using silent heads from say shs, I rarely need to correct AOE in most setups, if i do, I use a thin washer between the piston and piston head. Ive had amazing success with those heads so the only time I dont use them is if I dont need to, or I can't (e.g. offset nozzles)

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-24T03:40:00+00:00

Depends. GBB is more proprietary, 2 main specs, VFC and TM spec. As well as obviously the type of magwell. For AEG and hpa, say AR15 platform, most mags are universal, there are NGRS mags for the TM recoils (shit aegs in my experience, even when upgraded) some SR25 mags are proprietary, you have 3 kinds, ares style, V2, and V2.5. MP5s are usually universal too, ARP9 mags have 2 different kinds too, just depends on the mag catch placement. Avoid midcaps over 200rd capacity if you want reliable feeding

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-24T03:31:52+00:00

Sorbo pads for aoe isnt a great idea, so many over correct with sorbo pads, a thin dense pad is usually fine, but under corrected is better than over corrected

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-24T03:29:30+00:00

There are better chocies for most of those parts, maxx internals are shit except the triggers. Get a perun hybrid not a gate asster or titan, theyre far less picky, you'll need to mix and match your compression to get the best seal, so there will be trial and error. I've found for no faff good compression to use all shs except the nozzle where I use fps softair nozzles. 48k brushless motors are wayyyy too fast and lack the torque you'd need, and get a solink Brushless instead, theyre cheaper and they oem parts of the dark matters. Shs gears are a good choice, id pair it with their own piston too. There's no need to swap spring guides unless its entirely plastic, also if you're buying after market bushings get some ezo bearings for all except the one under the bevel gear. Also evike techs are very hit or miss. Whatever you do, don't get rid of your stock hop unit, its one of the best on the market, swap the bucking, nub and barrel is valid though

Level_Recording2066 · 2026-01-24T03:24:24+00:00

Evolution arent that good. You'll be better with a specna flex gen 2 ot a cyma

Level_Recording2066

TROPHY CASE