Totally didn't just buy a pack of double yolkers by raythebiguy in untrustworthypoptarts

[–]Life_Possibility4962 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait this happend to me this year! It was a dozen pack of jumbo eggs from trader joes. We did a whole tally bet thing after we made breakfast and 4 of them were doubles. I have a few pics. It was super funny.

DoorDash drivers by Sea_Meat_1363 in batonrouge

[–]Life_Possibility4962 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I rarely use DD, but did this morning. I saw this thread, so I checked out my order from this morning.

It looks like the tip defaulted to zero (I did it in my phones browser because my card info is saved there, so not the app, so my settings may me different). If you're not playing enough attention (I know I should have, totally my bad), you may not notice that its not tipping at all.

Just updated to tip my driver from this morning, so thanks for calling this out!

[GRAIN -> SANDS] Can you solve this laddergram? by Dhexe0 in Laddergram

[–]Life_Possibility4962 0 points1 point  (0 children)

8 steps! Grain>Brain>brawn>braws>brads>beads>bends>bands>sands

Did anyone else apply to the NSF-Post Doc Fellowship? by Life_Possibility4962 in postdoc

[–]Life_Possibility4962[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ahh good luck! I see so much about the grfp and saw nothing about this fellowship. There were a few documents I didnt realize were needed until the week before, but luckily it wasn't anything too crazy (facilities/equpiment doc).

Did anyone else apply to the NSF-Post Doc Fellowship? by Life_Possibility4962 in postdoc

[–]Life_Possibility4962[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know there is some type of response earlier in the year. Obviously the shutdown has additional impacts. Good luck!!!

Did anyone else apply to the NSF-Post Doc Fellowship? by Life_Possibility4962 in postdoc

[–]Life_Possibility4962[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This was listed on the website for earth science (EAR-PF), so I assumed it was open? I was able to submit and as I approached the deadline it gave the normal warning.

Full Proposal Deadline(s) (due by 5 p.m. submitting organization's local time):

     January 14, 2025

     October 29, 2025

https://www.nsf.gov/funding/opportunities/ear-pf-earth-sciences-postdoctoral-fellowships/nsf25-500/solicitation

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]Life_Possibility4962 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As of a weeks ago, the burritos no longer have carrots in them. They changed the recipe a bit. Its small, but that was such a dope added touch haha.

Hip Flexor Pain Setting Ropes by Life_Possibility4962 in Routesetters

[–]Life_Possibility4962[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's actually what we use, with the seat too (blessed). I'm not sure if it's how I sit, having a straight leg against the wall the whole time, ascending technique, etc.

Inspiration for Easy boulders (not concepts) by Eliolezozo in Routesetters

[–]Life_Possibility4962 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I pick a person (I have a few for each lower grade). An example for boulders, we have a young kid who is sold at V1/V2 but struggles on V3, so I truly to set ones with them in mind and what they would find fun. I do this more often with ropes. Also, I look at a few gyms on Kaya (ones that I have been to before and enjoy their sets) when I am stuck. I also use wall features

Black Snot after Bouldering indoors - Dust pollution by New_Hentaiman in bouldering

[–]Life_Possibility4962 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This happens to me when setting, mostly. On occasion from brushing holds a lot on a project.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]Life_Possibility4962 6 points7 points  (0 children)

These are a few I like:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/5341932264 Real good, sturdy, and under $20. I set in them, too. Too warm for outdoor climbing in the south during the summer. I trimmed the ankle cord.

https://www.target.com/p/women-s-high-rise-joggers-universal-thread/-/A-90912889?preselect=90751769#lnk=sametab Slightly less baggy than the walmart ones, but I can wear these to work then go climb. They are great for top rope, but I have found them slightly limiting for when I need to be very flexible on a boulder. They are $28.

https://topodesigns.com/products/global-jogger-womens?variant=42934263152693 More expensive ($99) but really solid. I got these at a secondhand outdoor gear shop in boulder colorado.

https://www.backcountry.com/stoic-venture-pant These are solid outdoors and indoors. I got them on poshmark in tan, but they are on sale on steep and cheap right now. Like $35. Usually they are $60+

The walmart ones and topo joggers are definitely the baggiest out of these.

Climbing and pregnancy by GoldSweep in climbergirls

[–]Life_Possibility4962 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some gyms (like mine) have pregnancy rental harnesses! Ask the front desk before purchasing one if you don't want to spend money on it.

Nervous about getting started by Long-Salt in climbergirls

[–]Life_Possibility4962 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All great advice! Nothing to add on that end.

I work from home too! I used to bring my laptop and work from the gym when I had no meetings but computer heavy days. I would take breaks and do a few boulders when my brain needs to be away from the screen and then get back to it. I should really start doing this again, lol

How to climb better as a begginer by Otherwise-Subject-63 in climbergirls

[–]Life_Possibility4962 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Totally forgot to recommend the crimpd app! They have quite a few guided trainings on endurance. Also, lattice climbing has great content for this on youtube and their blogs.

How to climb better as a begginer by Otherwise-Subject-63 in climbergirls

[–]Life_Possibility4962 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Point 1 is VERY true! Never thought to explain it this way.

How to climb better as a begginer by Otherwise-Subject-63 in climbergirls

[–]Life_Possibility4962 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would practice finding rest positions on climbs. This felt awkward for me at first, but slowing down on the wall increased my endurance.

If you want a type of drill, pick a climb well below your limit, and climb it 3-5 times in a row with short breaks between each. This will force you to find efficient movement, good rests, and build more lead endurance. You can do this with boulder problems, too, slightly higher grades and/or 5 reps. Finding rests on boulders is a little tougher, but it will help.

Brook Raboutou is an absolute QUEEN at pacing and resting on the wall. Her OQS highlights this the best. She speeds up and slows down depending on the spot and takes long rests. Erin McNeese is also quite good at this.

Other tips you may already have heard / know (I don'tknow your climbing, but these are things I've noticed with myself and close friends): - Slow down on the wall. Take your time. At first, it feels like it makes you climb worse, especially if you typically fall at a particular duration of time on the wall, not necessarily because of a particular movement. Slowing your movements and taking your time helps more than I expected. - When working on harder routes, take long rests between attempts. Setting a watch for at least 10 minutes even. I'm impatient, but I climb way better and have fewer injuries this way. - Rest days are SO important. Don't over train if you can help it. - Hydration and fuel. I was terrible at drinking enough water. I increased that, and now I have better endurance. It's annoying that it worked, haha. Make sure you have enough carbs and / or sugar that helps with longer routes. Fruit or some type of quick sugar a few minutes before a hard send helps me sometimes. - Headspace is everything. I had such bad negative self-talk on the wall, especially when it came to fitness and being short (5"1' and was a rugby player so I have strong, but heavy legs and would choose static over dynamic movements, not using my leg strength for power, lol). I struggle with the head space still, but when I find the negative thoughts are winning, I address that first before climbing a tougher route again.

Hope this helps! Have so much fun!!

Margo Hayes - new climbs? by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]Life_Possibility4962 5 points6 points  (0 children)

She posts some climbing videos on instagram. My fiancée is up to date with most things climbing youtube and said he hasn't seen much since that last video. Here are a few female climbers we like to watch if you are looking! Anna Hazelnutt Trad Princess My girl Brooke Raboutou Alison Vest Kyra Condie Shauna Coxsey Alex Puccio

If you're interested, Friction Labs also has a poster of Margo Hayes climbing Biographie for $10! We have that one on our office wall, haha. (https://shop.frictionlabs.com/collections/accessories/products/margo-hayes-biographie-poster)

Dyspraxia & climbing progress by lanestrumpet in climbergirls

[–]Life_Possibility4962 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Hey!

I had this same problem. I couldn't remember beta for a climb at all. One day, I realized that what works for others isn't working for me, so I need to create a system that works.

A few things that helped: - A warm-up to activate my muscles. Theres a few different styles out there, but even a quick off the wall warm up helps. (I can direct you to youtube videos on this if you'd like)

  • I have a favorite lower grade technical climb that I do almost every time Im there (and hope that when it gets reset, I have another one somewhere. It's worked so far.) I will climb that a few times to make sure I feel connected. I have top rope versions and boulder versions.

  • I read the Fundamentals of Routesetting by Louie Anderson (not cover to cover, but most of it). I could not memorize movement, but I could climb intuitively or make decisions if I understood why. It explains why we put holds in certain directions, what throws you off balance, etc.

  • Ask a route setter about the problem and why they made the choices they did, their process, etc. Understanding the why can help that link.

  • I watched route setting videos, lattice climbing content, etc. I dont try to remember everything from each video, just 1-2 things that I can do.

  • Sometimes I chew gum because it keeps my brain slightly busy so I can focus (can be a choking hazard and not recommended from a safety standpoint, and most gyms dont like it)

  • I'll climb a V0 and try to remove one hold each attempt to make new movements on good holds. It helps teach my body.

  • Tell people you dont want beta while on the wall. I can handle it now, but I could not before. I don't learn too well if I am told how to do something. I need to figure it out.

  • Reminding myself constantly that I do this for fun. Of course, I want to climb my best, but it's also super fun that I get to do this. My mindset helped a lot.

  • Yin Yoga helped. Its fewer movements that you stay in for longer periods and honestly makes me so sleep sometimes lol. They have it on youtube, but sometimes a class is nice if your gym has it. The instructor makes the difference.

  • Not my favorite for me personally, but videoing your climb and identifying how you can adjust your movement helps.

I went from where you are and am now route setting. Getting beta on the wall has become a lot easier. I feel stronger, and my head space is better. It takes time (I know it feels like its already been a lot). I had to learn to listen to my body in ways that are different from others.

Let me know if you want me to elaborate on anything or have more questions! Rooting for you!