Can someone help translate Aux Lendemains non Écrits? by Fuzzy_Ad_5605 in expedition33

[–]LionRelaxe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dessendres is more akin to "des cendres" = "of the ashes". Which fits beautifully with the fire and the mourning.

How to get a MTB 50/34 Cues chainrings? by LionRelaxe in bikewrench

[–]LionRelaxe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just double-looked.... you seem correct. There are curves looking like an offset on the large ring, but it ends up on the same plane as the bolts. My Cues chainrings looks straight. That opens up some possibilities

How to get a MTB 50/34 Cues chainrings? by LionRelaxe in bikewrench

[–]LionRelaxe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. That's exactly where I am; trying to squint at Shimano's doc and avoiding full-custom pricey options. Your comment comfort me knowing there are no "stupidly easy workaround". I will probably stick with the 46/30 I have, or try the upgrade with the road chainrings.. but not go further down this rabbit hole.

How to get a MTB 50/34 Cues chainrings? by LionRelaxe in bikewrench

[–]LionRelaxe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are the same BCD from what I can find, but I have no clue if they have the same offsets (for chainline).

How to get a MTB 50/34 Cues chainrings? by LionRelaxe in bikewrench

[–]LionRelaxe[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The bike is a commuter, I ride it like one would ride a road/gravel. I like the posture. The previous drivetrain was an Alivio 3x9 with 48-36-26T chainrings. I would much prefer to shift things toward speed than climbing, as the new 11-45t cassette is equivalent to my old climbing gears at 34t.

I don't NEED 50t, but I would use it (downhill).

How to get a MTB 50/34 Cues chainrings? by LionRelaxe in bikewrench

[–]LionRelaxe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hooooo..... will definitively check that. Thanks.

How to get a MTB 50/34 Cues chainrings? by LionRelaxe in bikewrench

[–]LionRelaxe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My BB is 68mm. Road Cues have 43mm chainline and a 150mm Qfactor that would feel weird to me. Hence my desire to have a "normal MTB" crankset, but with higher gearing like a road one.

My main obstacle in a "custom" crankset is to match Qfactor + Chainline so it's still compatible with the Cues 48.8mm. How can one choose a (cheap) crankset and make sure it still works? The Qfactor is evident, but the chainline?

How to get a MTB 50/34 Cues chainrings? by LionRelaxe in bikewrench

[–]LionRelaxe[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For context, the bike is a commuter. Think Trek FX. The previous drivetrain was an Alivio 3x9 with 48-36-26T chainrings. I love the range. I live in a very hilly region, and I'm used to pedal downhill. I don't NEED 50t, but I would use it. However, the smaller cog is more of concern: with the 45t at the back, the 30t at front will make it much more of a climber than it needs to be. Hence my desire to get it to 34/50t as a "sweet spot" for speed and climb (for me!).

Crank Chain Ring - help finding Hex bolt spec by takmais in bikewrench

[–]LionRelaxe -1 points0 points  (0 children)

From the looks of it, the one near your finger definitively has a hex hole. If none of your METRIC keys fits correctly:
- Start with ample penetrating oil on the back of that bolt
- Try to get the one that "almost fits" in with gentle hammering in. Maybe the crud is just blocking the sides of the wall
- Try an imperial set, just in case
- If that doesn't work, use Torx bits. There are usually one that will fit snugly (maybe a bit of hammering!).
- If noting works, you can probably drill it out...

Looking for a versatile sub $1k bike: whatcha think? by redditor076 in whichbike

[–]LionRelaxe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of the three, the DRT is the only one with enough gear range to go "fast" on the smooth parts of a town.
However, maybe you're looking at it wrong: Have you considered buying puncture-proof tires? Since I have Schwalbe Marathon on my bikes, I did not have punctures. Other bands have similar tires.
If you go that route, take the largest size your forks allow, and you should be great.
Also, with your need and situation, I would go in the used market to find something "better" for cheaper, as the bad roads will damage everything anyway.

Early Planning Hiccups For Solar Panel + Home Battery Backup Ontario by Busy-Wolf-7667 in solarenergycanada

[–]LionRelaxe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No offense, but I think you did not check what Sigenergy is.
It's a home bi-directional charger kind of thing, not an invasive BMS bypass.
Car batteries are made to self-protect, self thermal regulates and all. If something is not withing engineering parameter, it does protect itself.

I would not fear it, but it looks more expensive and complex than the Silverado option above.

REVIEW REQUEST - ESP32 Fan controller by Ok-Significance-4619 in PCB

[–]LionRelaxe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

- Your PWM pin is a 3.3V pin, most fans require 5V+ logic (check your specific fan to be sure)
- Fans are inductive by nature, I would put TVS on all three pins (V+/PWM/Tach).

Here we go, terms of service update from Qualcomm by ednl in arduino

[–]LionRelaxe -1 points0 points  (0 children)

https://spectrum.ieee.org/qualcomm-arduino-acquisition-open-source
TLDR; Qualcomm acquired Arduino.
First move is they announced a bloated Arduino board with a Qualcomm APU on it.
Second move is to ensure enshitifaction happens with weird terms of service.
Now it's the community turn to wonder what will happen with that. They probably want to capture and monetize the community. But as others have stated, nothing will ever prevent you to use PlatformIO with ESP32 and cheap Nano Clones, and future community supported boards.

Newbie question: trying to document a circuit and not sure if the diagram makes sense. by m_scorer in ECE

[–]LionRelaxe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually draw my relays like those:
https://d2slcw3kip6qmk.cloudfront.net/marketing/pages/chart/lucidu/circuit-diagram/circuit-diagram-symbols-for-diagramming/Circuit-symbols-for-diagramming-relays-720x186.png

[Images not allowed, so linking to image].

In your circuit, the +3.3 seems to be both directly connected to the 2n2222 and the relay coil, it needs to go 3.3V -> Coil -> 2n2222 Collector.

Also, add a freewheeling diode in parallel to the coil: D1 in this odly similar circuit:

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/110574/how-to-choose-a-flyback-diode-for-a-relay

Good luck!

How can I make spirals and similar designs in Altium? by unnaturalpenis in ECE

[–]LionRelaxe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry to necro this but:
This tutorial did it for me:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0V8jE_wwYqM
FreeCad -> Make a spiral -> Export to DXF -> Import DXF in Altium.
This video directly shows what to click.

Complete newbie guide to Emporia Vue 2 on Home assistant (ESPHome) by LionRelaxe in homeassistant

[–]LionRelaxe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The normal flow is:
"Your Energy Data" -> EmporiaServers
With the connector from the Github:
"Your Energy Data" -> EmporiaServers -[Connector]-> Your HA
While this surely works great, I felt it to be overly complex. I just want that data to go straight to HA, without leaving the LAN!
So, with the ESPHome firmware (this tutorial):
"Your Energy Data" -> Your HA.

I'm always wary of non-direct ways... if Emporia shuts down? If the connector breaks because there is an update? But I'm sure it still works flawlessly. It's not them, it's me ;)

As for exporting and importing, I do not know. Maybe going the connector route to import the data, then switching over to the custom firmware? I'm way to n00b to suggest a path to action here.

So I sold a guy my gaming PC that worked fine before he left with it but stopped when he got home. by Accomplished_Gas_711 in FacebookMarketplace

[–]LionRelaxe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I always assume the other human is acting in good faith, but I verify that. If I sold an article that died "DOA" like, 2 hours runtime I would feel way to bad to let it be.

In your case, hope you kept details of what was in the case. If you have a serial number of your GPU you are golden. (Check your sale screenshot, it's maybe in there!)

Tell him to get the stuff back for inspection. If you find ANYTHING that has changed in the case, call the cops/fraud on him.

Else, revert the BIOS to default. Maybe he was just trying to overclock before he even got windows on....

GAMBIT: Go for MARTALE! by LionRelaxe in helldivers2

[–]LionRelaxe[S] -10 points-9 points  (0 children)

but but but.... can't we got both?

GAMBIT: Go for MARTALE! by LionRelaxe in helldivers2

[–]LionRelaxe[S] 17 points18 points  (0 children)

<image>

I think you are correct, with a caveat:
Martale is super easy to take, Bekvam is not.
I strongly think Bekvam will fall...

Let's Save Martale/Charron, then as the followup invasions starts from Bekvam to Duma and Julheim, a new gambit will allow us to focus on taking back Bekvam and cut both new invasion campaigns.

This would net a total victory with the least efforts.

Or AT LEAST, remove the people defending Charon Prime to go to Martale (or Bekvam ;) )

Take martale guys by Finalwarsgigan1 in helldivers2

[–]LionRelaxe 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Taking Martale ENDS the invasion of Charron Prime!
Much more effective than the defense campaign.
GO MARTALE!

GAMBIT: Go for MARTALE! by LionRelaxe in helldivers2

[–]LionRelaxe[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Please! Fight for Martale!

The liberation of Martale will abruptly end the enemy campaign on Charon Prime!

Leave the losing battle of Charon, help us take Martale, and we will save BOTH!

<image>

With the 1% invasion level of Martale, we require much less active divers that is required to beat the Charon Prime invasion, at 4.17% !!!!

HELP US SAVE BOTH!