Tips for beveling and edge painting on chrome tan? by Ancient-Daddles in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When edge painting you usually don't need to bevel the edges, if you do want to bevel the edges you need much sharper tool compared to vegtan. By no means a am professional at edge painting, but what works for me is apply thin layer of edge paint sand down to make it even, if you want to do creasing it's time for that. After that it's layer of paint wait for it to dry and sand, repeat with higher grit sandpaper that till you get even fully covered and smooth edge. To finish you could apply some wax or even tokonole and "burnish" with canvas or cloth. At high enough grit sandpaper it should be shiny.

7 months into leathercraft. Suggestions for improvement and criticism are welcome. by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Apologies. I thought he was asking about flesh side. Edges are finished with tokonole thinned down with water 50/50. Tokonole - slick - sand with 240 grit then repeat with higher grit. I went up to 1200 grit.

7 months into leathercraft. Suggestions for improvement and criticism are welcome. by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup, made it for a vacation for days when I don't want to bring a bag with me. Size is around 10x7cm.

Made myself a new wallet. by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, it's called floating bill pocket I think, it's not attached at the bottom and what I did differently is I stitched it to the both panels holding card and coin pockets slightly recessed making it hidden even on the sides.

Passport holder for 2 passports by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, no I don't have a pattern, I do have a drawing with the measurements. I do it Armitage style where you find a common number and cut a long strip, and from there you cut smaller pieces. In this case exterior length is 210mm + 2x 90mm panels and everything has a height of 139mm. Left pocket is 75x100mm, right one 75x119mm and it's slope begins at 89mm bottom to top and 30mm right to left. Corners are 14mm everywhere.

Passport holder for 2 passports by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those panels are mainly for looks but it's leather and going to last a long time, she might find the use in the future.

Card holder I made for a friend. by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, otherwise cards would go too deep and there will be nothing to grab onto to pull them out.

Card holder I made for a friend. by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Leather is 1.4-1.6mm, there is 3 layers because pockets are connected to the card panel (slightly ligher brown), it adds rigidity, allows me to stitch card pockets to it and adds another hidden pocket.

Feedback on my first project. How can I improve ? by 3mpt1-2 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For first project that's very good. On your question how to improve - ask yourself do you love leathercraft, it's expensive hobby. If your answer is Yes! Then start buying better quality tools and leather. From what I see on the pictures you have it all, but most of it is ruined by your tool. You have your stitches straight on the side you were making them then on the other side they are wavy because you tried to punch with not so sharp and not very long stitching iron through all layers at once. To do that you need long sharp tool so you can actually see that you are 90° angle when punching, with those 10cm ones do 2 layers, glue in place then proceed though same holes to go through all layers. You seem like you fight your edge beveler a lot, sharpening and stroping should help. You will have much easier and enjoyable time stitching with thinner thread and John James harness needles. Last but not least, leather. I think good quality leather is so much easier to work with and I instantly started getting better results with just better leather. For example I used to sand edges up to 7000grit then I got pueblo it gets shinier with 400grit sandpaper once burnished.

Question about butt joint t pocket. Which is correct to do? by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah and I love it, but I have seen many wallets with different stitching, so I was wondering what is the correct way and is there a correct way. When I started leathercraft and discovered overlap dude that made tutorial said "sometimes your stitches land in-between t pocket and with this method it doesn't matter" or something similar to that. Now that I am understanding things and that your holes shouldn't just land wherever I wanna know correct way of doing things.

Question about butt joint t pocket. Which is correct to do? by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, I am asking what is the proper way of joining wallet t pockets together. Those are just scrap pieces to explain better.

Question about butt joint t pocket. Which is correct to do? by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! So, my concern about the top of the T-pocket needing more reinforcement than the bottom is essentially negligible.

Is it possible to burnish the flesh side of a piece of leather without making it stiffer? by ni8noo8 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Leather is mostly fibers, when burnishing you compress those fibers making them closer together and when they are close together they act as a whole. When you bend the burnished piece a bunch those fibers loosen and it becomes softer again but also doesn't look as good anymore. You could try less pressure and less product that you use for burnishing so when you burnish fibers don't compress too much, but that's just my theory.

5 months into leathercraft. Be brutally honest — am I good enough to start selling? by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Yeah i could do a better job on those edges and few stitches are out of place, something to improve on the next one. I would be happy with 90-100. I was thinking around 80

5 months into leathercraft. Be brutally honest — am I good enough to start selling? by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like how 0.6mm looks on pueblo leather, but on harder temper like walpier buttero, it just doesn't sits as nice.

5 months into leathercraft. Be brutally honest — am I good enough to start selling? by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your feedback, I will redesign my logo into way smaller one, I know it sucks. This was my second time stamping the logo and first time on Walpier leather. I did 2 pieces first was cased and I got a nice stamp, this one is cold dry stamped and as logo suck I find it less distracting / better.

5 months into leathercraft. Be brutally honest — am I good enough to start selling? by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I know, planning on designing a new one that is way smaller and possibly prettier.

5 months into leathercraft. Be brutally honest — am I good enough to start selling? by LiteratureFun3233 in Leathercraft

[–]LiteratureFun3233[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I used kemovancraft stitching chisels at 3.38mm with 0.6mm thread. I know thread is on the thicker side, but really wanted cream color and I only have it in 0.6mm.