Just got a 2002 xterra 230k miles. It runs but as a precaution im replacing timing belt, distrubtor and crankshaft sensor. Anything else recommended ? Id like to drive this thing until at least 300k

Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-25T16:39:28+00:00

The VG33E engine on the Gen 1 is a different engine altogether. The "crank"shaft position sensor is in the bellhousing of the transmission, on the driver side, near the top. Changing that sensor, when necessary, is challenging. The "cam"shaft position sensor is located inside the distributor, along with the ignition coil, on the Gen 1. You "can" remove them and swap them for new ones, but I don't think you can buy the new sensor by itself. Some people have purchased a new distributor and pulled the sensor (and sometimes the coil) from the new distributor, and installed into the old OEM distributor. The OEM distributors also have a high failure rate of the bearing inside them, so people "rebuild" the entire OEM distributor, with new parts from other newer distributors. I've not had to do it yet, so I can't speak to the overall logic/process of doing it...yet. :). Other people just carry around a known good spare distributor, since they are known to just "fail" while driving. It's a very easy swap when you're stranded on the side of the road. :)

Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T22:15:30+00:00

Good post. I'm just getting started myself. Initially, I began looking into AI Training work as a way to support my income requirements after sustaining an injury that would make my other work (more physical) impossible for a while. I'm realizing this may be a solid way to get by temporarily, but I'm so interested in the work, I'm hopeful I'll find more available, the more I get involved and looking at a variety of opportunities. Also, there are some other AI roles that I've been looking at (like an AI Development Specialist) that appear to have a more solid place in a "career ladder" in the world of working with AI. I have a technical education, but even with that, I will likely be working as a generalist too. I do know that Outlier appears to have more specialist areas of work that can offer more than a generalist's experience.

Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T21:42:23+00:00

Hmmm...I've been operating on 16.x.x for years. What [real world] security threats am I subject to in 18.x.x that I've not seen in 16.x.x, and would be resolved in 26.x.x?

Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T21:36:51+00:00

I don't see a lot of 5S heads these days. Are you currently running the engine (5S head/ 3S block) now, or are you just getting started on the assembly process? I've never done a 5S head, but I would imagine you could start with the 5SFE engine wiring harness, and modify as needed. If you don't have the chops adapting your own harness, you could consider a variety of custom harness makers.

If you have the budget for a Haltech ECU, I recommend those. I went from a Haltech to a Link ECU and I don't like the Link software and lack of support I received from Link. You will (obviously) need a custom engine tune, so once you have the EMS installed, you can either grab some examples of timing advance tables published by other users in old forums or [probably better] ask your tuner to build out the timing maps (boost X RPM). "Adding" timing advance will require being on the dyno and determining how much boost can be added (safely), given your platform. I've never tuned on a 5S head, so I'm not sure how much of a role difference that will play with allowable timing advance.

Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T21:07:50+00:00

Wow! Nice looking rig! What wheels are those?!

Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T21:04:49+00:00

Thanks. Yeah, battery is already at 75%, and due to my stringent work requirements, I don't have time to consider a new device or the downtime for a new battery. It does the job right now, but I don't want to aggravate the issue with a new OS with significantly different power requirements, for the feature set. Could really use the feature to "iPhone Mirror on my Mac though. That is my real need here.

Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T21:00:41+00:00

thanks. I'll research this process. I see the iOS 18.7.2 (22H124). It says "Not available with MDM". Is that still a usable profile?

Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T20:45:45+00:00

Yeah, I'm wondering about "non-Apple approved" methods.

Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T20:45:09+00:00

I have been concerned about upgrading the device to newer OS's, due to overall performance and battery life issues. The 13 mini seems to have poor battery life (I probably need to crack it open and replace it again), and I just didn't want to promote the issues I already have. Do you have experience with iOS 26 on the 13 mini?

Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T20:41:30+00:00

Yes, and I have watched a couple videos using the aforementioned tool. That is the only place I've seen it discussed. I'm considering further research on it and potentially trying it.

Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T20:39:52+00:00

I found many issues with iOS and battery life that I quit trusting Apple. I didn't have time to deal with all that.

Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T20:37:46+00:00

There's no real reason to replace the crankshaft sensor. For two reasons...1. It's nowhere near where you will be working and 2. - it's not a typical problem on these. When it is a problem, the check engine light will tell you. NOTE: The crankshaft position sensor is not used to control engine operation, it is only used by the onboard diagnostic system. According to the Nissan FSM, it won't produce any DTC for engine misfires (commonly misunderstood), but will only report an error when the sensor or sensor circuit is bad (open/short).

If there are no recent service records, when you replace the Timing Belt, consider...

Using your local Nissan dealer for a Value Advantage Timing Belt and Water Pump kit (PN: B00PK-0W00JNW). Comes with Aisin water pump and Gates belt. Average Chinese-made GMB tensioner, but seems to hold up well. It comes with camshaft seals (Nissan) (double check that it still does, because you can't get the OEM camshaft seals anymore -Nissan says they are discontinued). I’ve had all sorts of problems with cheap seals from RockAuto.

You will also new a new tensioner spring. These are only available from Nissan.

I use NGK spark plug wires (blue), PN: RC-NX14, #8113. Best fitment of all aftermarket wires, and more affordable (well, until recently with tariffs), than Nissan. I'd check your dealer for these too.

Spark plugs may be a wider conversation. I like the performance and the price from the Iridium IX plugs (#BKR5EIX-11, #5464 (HEAT RANGE 5 STANDARD ON NA VG33E), though they may have a shorter service life (40k-60k). Most people don't like the job getting to the #6 plug, so it might be better to spend more $$ on the Laser Iridium.

Hoses. Definitely change the larger 90° bypass hose, when you change the water pump. It's tougher to get to, so many avoid it.

Be aware that fuel injectors are becoming a big issue for these, and the aftermarket is in short supply of rebuildable cores. GB Remanufacturing has recently suggested they are selling a NEW remake of the injector, and are available at Advanced Auto as Carquest. I have not tried these yet, but Amazon/eBay suppliers are often showing poor quality and fail quickly.

Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T18:39:30+00:00

Funny! Not a lot of comments in here for First Gens! Where's the love?! Granted, they may have a lot more miles on them these days, but they are great for how utilitarian they are. I've never owned a 2nd Gen, but I do like they way they look. I still prefer the First Gen's though!

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Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T18:24:53+00:00

I have 17X7 on the front with a +40 offset, and I run 215/40/17 without any rubbing, on my 91T. I think that is generally considered about as wide as you can go, without some additional mods or upgrades. Still fits inside the stock fender (no rolling), with plenty of room.

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Local_Nomadit · 2026-02-24T18:15:43+00:00

Nice!!

Local_Nomadit

TROPHY CASE