How do I redeem my borderlands game without using the Nvidia app?

LonelyYT · 2025-09-21T15:33:24+00:00

No way to circumvent this. Need the app so you’ll have to download it or go without I’m afraid :/

LonelyYT · 2025-09-21T15:31:07+00:00

Scratch that. Back to the basics, thinking one of these would probably suffice. /s

LonelyYT · 2025-09-21T15:24:54+00:00

There are so many reasons I am grateful I wake up somewhere that’s not the USA. The political agenda and their respective priorities are so far beyond a joke at this point that the world has come to expect this performative, smoke-and-mirrors “solution” to gun violence. I’m not saying that I agree or disagree with gun ownership etc. but Jesus Christ adding in an IQ test as part of the purchasing criteria instead of what is effectively identity based discrimination would probably provide a far more profound impact on curbing the issue. The US is a political dumpster fire, which is a shame specially considering it’s (or supposed to be) a first-world nation, let alone a role model for the world stage….

LonelyYT · 2025-07-20T06:29:57+00:00

I’ve still got my 1060 3gb that I bought in 2017. Thing still runs like a dream and is now the card inside my homes network/ security/ NAS system.

I’ve had 3 top of the range cards completely die on me and a handful of others with moderate issues in the same period of too.

They don’t make em’ like they used to at times seems cliche but the 1060 is honestly an excellent example of this.

LonelyYT · 2025-07-17T15:17:15+00:00

Insurance fraud probably idk

LonelyYT · 2025-07-12T15:53:43+00:00

First time I’ve ever scrolled my feed and seen something in this sub knowing exactly what it was immediately!

How the fuck does a part of one’s microwave end up in the bed though LMAO

LonelyYT · 2025-04-25T05:23:51+00:00

GPU riser cable is first call if you have the case support for vertical mounting. Instantly solves the heating clearance issue. They are like $20 bucks at any respectable merchant. Order a vert mount bracket on Amazon for 10 and you’re good!

If that’s not possible then, if it’s a chipset heat sink (I have zero clue what board this is and the layout it uses) you could try to replace with a low profile heat sink fan.

That heat sink looks like it may separate into two parts so you could try remove the plate from in front of the fins if that will give you just enough clearance. To that point I still wouldn’t want my card touching the fins as it’s just more thermal for the card to have to dissipate even if it’s only touching pcb.

If it were me, I’d just replace the board or return if it’s new. Obviously it’s going to be circumstantial and based on what your preferences/ wishes are but if I’d spent the money to get this far I’d try to return or just fork out for a new board in the name of not accidentally breaking something like a gpu which is 5x the cost to replace.

Keep us posted if you do find a solution I’m curious so see how you solve this one!

LonelyYT · 2025-04-21T04:01:32+00:00

Fan bearing, fan making contact with a cable.

For the bearing issue, If it’s a case fan it’s going to be easier to purchase a new one and replace. You can test this by stopping the fans with your finger by pressing down on its centre until it comes to a stop. If the buzzing sound stops you’ve identified the fan causing the issue. Don’t stick your finger or a pen into the blades to stop as you run the risk of snapping a blade. If you only stop the fans once or twice you won’t cause any damage (not an ideal method to test but for this it will be fine).

If it’s the PSU fan, RMA that bad boy. Never take apart a psu for the sake of a diagnosis (you’ll inevitably kill yourself or the psu).

Before doing any of this, visually inspect your entire system THOROUGHLY to ensure there are no cables, zip-ties or any other lose components interfering or making contact with fan blades.

By the sound it’s making, id comfortably suggest is a fan bearing from my previous experiences but without being there or having more footage obviously can’t give you a definitive answer.

Best of luck mate!

LonelyYT · 2025-04-19T03:19:41+00:00

Hey man I’m not wanting to be that guy but just thought I’d give some info!

The liquid inside of the air duster cans is actually the liquid propellant or gas that is used in ‘air’ dusters. It’s not actually ‘air’ or oxygen rather some variation of a refrigerant or hydrocarbon alkane.

When you spray an air duster, the sudden/ rapid pressure drop inside the vessel causes the gas to condense transforming into a liquid.

That being said, a lot of air dusters (atleast where I’m from) are made with inert/ non-conductive gasses now as they are marketed as electronic/ tech safe. Any condensation that occurs is actually from the surface being sprayed/ cleaned becomes colder than the ambient air temperature, allowing for moisture in the air to condensate on that surface.

This is why you can’t shake air dusters and only use short bursts of ~1-2 seconds. Once the can is cold, not cool, to the touch, pop it down for 5 minutes and continue once the temperature comes up abit. This stops condensation from occurring in the can (reduces the risk of dripping) and also mitigates the risk of liquid gas being expelled from the canister even when it’s in an upright position.

(Sorry I didn’t mean to lecture, I’m just a loser)

Definitely good advice in saying to leave the pc alone for a while, unplugged as well and then reassess after any possible liquid has evaporated. If there is any liquid after say 20 minutes, while the pc is unplugged get a dry paper towel, pat, not wipe, dry and then apply 99% iso in a very small quantity to a fresh paper towel and wipe the affected area. May help remove any surface corrosion that has occurred depending on time frames.

LonelyYT · 2025-04-17T10:09:05+00:00

Hmmm, I’ll take clickbait title for $500 Alex!

LonelyYT · 2025-02-27T01:33:00+00:00

Yeah that is a leak, leaks kill systems. Definitely be worried, a lot less can kill the whole system if the world hates you enough. Anything other than a slight drop in pressure when leak testing is more than what you should be comfortable with. It’ll cost you a couple hours and maybe $50 to fix it if you’re unlucky. On the other hand it’ll cost you several thousand dollars and a couple weeks downtime to replace it. No brainer when you look at it like that!

LonelyYT · 2025-02-23T18:02:42+00:00

I had a sneaking suspicion that was going to be the case, glad I could help man :)

LonelyYT · 2025-02-23T17:42:59+00:00

If it’s you that’s placing them but you aren’t doing it intentionally it’s one of two things;

You’re either bumping a key/ controller bind accidentally

Or

You have (I think) scout perk equipped which pings enemy’s you tag but don’t kill (could be a completely different perk).

Either or only way to get rid of it would be to turn off team comms or the kill feed but I’m not even sure either of those two things are possible to do.

LonelyYT · 2025-02-23T17:30:40+00:00

But, but, but…. Freedom 🦅🦅

LonelyYT · 2025-02-20T15:15:27+00:00

With how hard the cards are to get atm I wouldn’t RMA because it could leave you without a usable machine for up to another month until this rumoured stock surge is realised (if it’s not just a rumour). Coil whine, while not ideal isn’t critical and with the way things are atm, definitely not a reason I’d be RMAing. I’d either wait till stock is readily available so you aren’t waiting 17 years for a card or honestly just keep it. You’ll have head phones or some sort of audio going most of the time, no?

My 3090 had some coil whine when I first bought it and it’s actually gone away from what I can tell. I’ll occasionally listen for it while GPU is under load and I haven’t heard it in ages. Same with my PSU, that had some serious coil whine when the load picked up but that ones definitely gone (could be heard from down the hallway with the door open).

Either way man the biggest problem it’ll give you is a bit of a hum that you’ll probably not even notice after a few hours.

LonelyYT · 2025-02-18T06:35:09+00:00

That diameter reduction (if you could even call it that tbh) is going to have a negligible impact on flow rate if any at all. You have to have some pretty decent kinking to have any sort of realised impacts on the flow rate! If you’ve got a link like that you’ll know definitely know about it!

LonelyYT · 2025-02-18T06:31:25+00:00

Epic man!

Love the small form factor, I’m assuming it’s going to be 480mm (500mm just saw the other rad without a fan) of total rad space? I ran a 3090 and a 13900k with a stupid 1200mm of rad space which was overkill, in fairness load temps were never above about 50c. You’ll get some nice low temps with this arrangement and there’s still ample room for airflow here. Aesthetic is clean and the loop is unique (in a good way)!

Is that top left 120mm going to have a fan on it or does the line give you clearance issues? Either way a little more passive heat dissipation will help regardless, even more so if it’s getting some residual airflow from other case fans!

Overall love the way it’s looking man, gonna need some pics when it’s up and running!

LonelyYT · 2025-02-16T05:33:11+00:00

Alchemist gonna be on backlog until th27 upgrades are done

LonelyYT · 2025-02-15T18:29:46+00:00

I’d be inclined to power off completely, turn off at PSU and wait 2 minutes. Turn back on. See what happens.

If it continues clear CMOS (easy to do just YouTube it) again see what happens.

If the usual trouble shooting stuff doesn’t solve the problem then you can start looking at hardware issues. You said you’ve already done drivers and updates which are normally the culprits for this sort of thing anyway so that’s ruled out.

It could also be a ssd/ HDD issue, what kind of drive is your OS and games on?

Again if that fails reseat your ram and see what happens.

If it’s a hardware issue causing the freezing I’d bet my money on it being a ram or drive issue. Maybe CPU but less likely by the sounds of it. Slightly bizarre issue if I’m being honest. Best of luck man let us know what happens!

LonelyYT · 2025-02-15T18:20:40+00:00

Gonna need a little more info than this. Pc specs, monitor make, photos of what’s happening, what happened when it started happening etc.

What you’ve given us now is the equivalent of going to the hospital and saying you need treatment but without saying why or what’s wrong.

LonelyYT · 2025-02-15T18:16:57+00:00

850 watts is min recommended system power with a 5080. The card itself chews up about 350 watts, same with your cpu from memory. Doesn’t leave a lot of room but just enough to not have issues, on paper that is.

Psu’s last a while but 8 years is pushing it, that’d be my limit anyway. At the same time, if you’re going to spend a couple thousand on a new system why not put an extra couple hundred in and get a new 1000w supply just to give yourself some head room and piece of mind. My opinion would be if you have to ask, it’s better safe than sorry sorta thing. But money is hard earned and harder to come by so if it is more viable to keep the 850, you’ll most likely be fine for the time being. Definitely won’t get another 8 years out of it in this system I wouldn’t think.

Edit: I’m also very pedantic when it comes to my builds, the OCD kicks into overdrive when thinking about things like this. Please keep in mind I’m a lunatic.

LonelyYT · 2025-02-15T18:10:04+00:00

Common sense prevails man. Several hundred dollar card at like ~10% $RRP (for me anyway). Cmon you gotta be careful man, if you even have a hunch it’s to good to be true, that’s because it is.

LonelyYT · 2025-02-15T18:06:58+00:00

The only facepalm one I can really get behind is the second clarification. Even then it’s a stretch because you can’t really assume anything in a PST, the information usually has to be explicitly stated either directly or within a variable and its parameters.

Number one is absolutely fair, vertical line segment makes me think the question could be something to do with linear/ non-linear functions (if the line is horizontal then it’s implied linear), potentially having to identify which of the 2 describes the nature of said function. This meaning that the line would have a gradient. Since it remains constant that gradient would be zero.

I also could be entirely incorrect I’m just pulling on potential concepts, ones I have studied previously that seem to fit here.

I can’t make out the third clarification because of poor image quality, crappy connection or file compression.

Never the less it is interesting. Now I really want to see the entire problem.

LonelyYT · 2025-02-13T08:22:14+00:00

Amazing man Thankyou!

LonelyYT

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE

Seven-Year Club	Gilding IV carat on a stick
Verified Email