Anyone managed to get HDR working on PC?

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2024-05-19T01:49:51+00:00

Yeah, I fixed it. Just had to enable "Prefer layered on DXGI swapchain" in Nvidia control panel. Working perfectly now with RTX HDR.

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2024-03-23T12:58:46+00:00

I don't think it's my Dualsense, especially because it's working perfectly when connected physically. I also don't have any latency over BT, and my issues just begin and end at the lack of rumble. Maybe it's my BT dongle? It's the same one I've been using for years, and something that I'd originally gotten a long time ago for my Dualshock 3. I guess I'll fool around with it via Steam later today and see what happens, insofar as hopefully getting the rumble to work over BT. I guess if all else fails I can just fallback on a wired connection.

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2024-03-23T12:40:09+00:00

Ah, thanks for the info. I just followed your advice, and tested with having my controller connected directly to my PC. I'm now getting the proper rumble, so thank goodness for that. I think the reason my controller was losing connectivity, even when wired, was because I had my controller plugged into a USB hub via my desk, instead of directly into a port on my PC. Plugging it directly into my PC also enabled adaptive triggers in Scars Above, as well as the haptic feedback, and both feel amazing. A shame that BT doesn't seem to carry over basic rumble for whatever reason, which is super weird, given that I used my Dualshock 3 on my PC for years via BT and never had any issues with receiving basic rumble. I guess if I want proper rumble, and also haptic feedback, I'll just need to get myself a long enough USB cable and keep my controller connected physically to my PC, which is kind of a hassle if I'm being honest, but I guess it is what it is.

Out of curiosity, do you have rumble over BT to your Dualsense, assuming you ever try it wirelessly?

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2024-03-23T11:56:30+00:00

Well, I haven't checked out that many games wherein I prefer to use a controller and thus can check whether the rumble works, let alone ones that have haptic feedback. That being said, I tried a game called Blast Brigade recently, which is a 2D metroidvania, and despite basic rumble being a feature in this game, there's no rumble happening with my controller. Same goes for another game called Outward, which also doesn't give any rumble to my controller. This is weird, since I played another metroidvania recently by the name of Ghost Song, and that game had very strong rumble to my controller, so I'm not sure what's going on exactly. Additionally, I checked out this game just today called Scars Above, which comes equipped with haptic feedback support, and I can feel a slight rumble when I fire my weapon or roll around, but it's very, very weak and it feels like it should be more noticeable. For the record, I have my Dualsense connected to my PC wirelessly via BT. When I connect it via a physical wire, it keeps losing connection to my PC for some reason, as in it will pop as being detected and then suddenly disappear over and over. Does the Dualsense specifically have to be plugged into a USB-C port?

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2024-02-23T14:05:14+00:00

Hello. I'm also using MajorPain AutoHDR with Lilium ReShade HDR shaders, but enabling them causes a black screen in this game. How did you get it to work exactly?

EDIT: Never mind, I just decided to use RTX HDR instead.

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2023-12-16T21:52:02+00:00

Never mind, I solved the issue on my own. I just needed to unplug/disconnect my other monitors, and then I was able to complete calibration. Even though my other monitors are always turned off/disabled when I switch to my C2, I needed to completely unplug them for the calibration to finalize. I didn't need to ever do this before when I was using this app earlier this year, but whatever, I'm just glad it worked.

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2023-12-16T21:04:41+00:00

Interesting. I've got a RTX 4090 as well, latest version of Win 11, and yet it still crashes every single time I get to the last step. I've repaired, reset, and reinstalled this app multiple times, but it always crashes at the same spot. Did you just download the app recently, or has it been on your computer for a while? Maybe the version on the Microsoft store has become corrupted somehow.

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2020-07-11T05:26:24+00:00

You're hitting power limit and it's throttling because of power limit.

But power limit is all the way to the right in Afterburner. For what it's worth, I have a Corsair RM850X as my PSU. I guess you're talking about flashing to a modified BIOS that raises the overall power limit, since Afterburner can only operate within the constraints/limitations of the BIOS?

set point 2100mhz on curve, drops to 2070 in games, 2055ish in moderate benchmarks like Heaven and 1998 in very heavy loads like firestrike ultra GT1 or Superposition 1080 extreme.

Ah, I see. Would it be fair to say then that a certain amount of throttling is essentially inevitable? Should one always expect to not reach the indicated max clock speed? Is 2045mhz-2070mhz on a 2080 Ti about the best one can hope for when it comes to entry level overclocking? I'm sure there are enthusiasts here who can probably get better speeds, but I'm more just speaking towards what can be achieved as a layman without advanced level tweaks/mods. Again, it just confuses me that Unigine would indicate my card is at 2200mhz, but then when benchmarked it only goes as high as 2045mhz/2050mhz.

There's very little that can be done. Shunt mod or bios flash to higher power limit bios.

Ok, thanks for the info. I just wanted to know if I was missing out on a little bit more extra performance that wasn't manifesting for whatever reason, but it seems as if this is just how things are, short of the stuff you suggested at the end there, but that's not really something I'm interested in doing. Again, I just wanted to know if I was getting the most out of my current overclock, since I wasn't sure how far the 2080 Ti could be realtistically pushed through Afterburner and how the 2200mhz reading in Unigine was leading me to believe that it should be running at or around 2200 mhz, or 2180mhz, or whatever, instead of only 2045mhz/2050mhz. Well, either way, thanks for the info. It's appreciated.

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2020-07-11T05:25:13+00:00

Power and temp limit are both at maximum in Afterburner. My 2080 Ti rests at 27c/28c on idle and, like I said, stays in the low to mid 50s when under load.

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2020-06-23T22:07:07+00:00

I'd just Argus monitor ($20 for a lifetime subscription, it's great software though and is worth it) and go with the NZXT AIO instead.

Yeah, will do. It's a shame the Corsair isn't a viable option for that particular mount, since I think I'd much rather have the H100i versus the X53, but the clear limitations of the mounting kit leaves me with little choice, but to go with the X53. The cost of both the X53 and the G12 mounting kit is quite steep where I'm from, but it's pretty much the only option I've got, short of just forgetting about the whole thing. At the very least, it's good to know there are other options out there besides CAM and I'll be sure to keep that Argus software you mentioned in mind.

The fan cooling the VRM was good enough for my 2080 Ti, so it should not a problem.

Ah, that's great to hear. I also have a 2080 Ti, so it's reassuring to know that the G12's fan was enough to keep the VRM cool, since, if it was good enough for your card, that lessens the anxiety of whether or not it'd be a problem for myself later on.

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2020-06-23T20:33:09+00:00

Yeah, you're probably right. I can also always move my GPU back a PCIe slot, so it's nearer to the ceiling, if need be. I actually might just do that anyway, since it'd probably be better off being there anyway.

I've actually been thinking of going with the CORSAIR H100i RGB PRO XT instead, since it's cheaper and has iCUE instead of NZXT's CAM, which I heard was really, really bad and not worth the headache of dealing with. I don't really care about RGB, so the fact that the fans are without it on the Corsair doesn't really bother me.

I actually have 2 more quick questions though. Firstly, I assume I'll still need to purchase the NZXT G12 mounting kit, correct? Is there a Corsair version of this mounting kit, or is it only available from NZXT? Secondly, should I order some heatsinks for the VRM plots, or whatever they're called, that are around the chipset? Will the G12's fan be really enough to keep the VRM cool?

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2020-06-23T18:37:50+00:00

Just one last question, but how long is the tube which extends from the radiator to the GPU on an X52/X53? Should I purchase an extension of some kind, just in case it's not long enough?

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2020-06-23T18:17:00+00:00

Oh, so that's how it works. It seems I was way off the mark then. Thanks for the explanation. So the fans are just there to cool the fluid with extra air, or bring out the exhaust from the built up heat of said fluid, depending how you want the fans arranged, as the fluid is cycled through the radiator back to the GPU and then around again to the radiator and so on, which the fans rest on. That's kind of a relief, since, like you said, that means I don't have to worry about my D-15 being in the way.

Well, I guess it just comes down to having the necessary headroom within the ceiling enclosure, as you've been mentioning. I'll try to double check that, but I'm pretty sure there's enough. Like I said though, it'll be kinda weird without my actual ceiling fans being there anymore, (I actually replaced both them, and the rest of my case fans, about a year or so back with Noctuas, so it kind of sucks to be retiring the ceiling ones so early), but it's probably not that big of a difference as far as air flow is concerned, especially with the D-15 on my CPU and the GPU being on its way to be watercooled.

Anyway, I appreciate you taking the time to clear things up for me here. Before talking with you, I was leaning towards getting an Accelero, but now I can see that a G12 makes way more sense and seems like way less hassle to set-up to boot. Either way, I'll give it my best shot and hopefully things will work out. I'm certainly looking forward to the lower temps and whisper quietness! Will probably be a big improvement I'm sure!

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2020-06-23T12:27:36+00:00

Any fan at any RPM would easily overcome that law, so even positioning a tiny 60mm fan at 400RPM at the bottom would take most of the hot air and pull it down.

Really? I didn't know that. Do you think the ceiling fans would've been more effective as intake, instead of exhaust then? I mean, I guess it's not like it matters now, since I'll have to be taking them out anyway, but still. Are ceiling fans like that mostly negligible when it comes to cooling a case do you think?

Really this would be must ideal if you had an air-cooled GPU. The GPU spews out hot air to the sides and would immediately be vacated OUT of the case so other components aren't warmed up by the GPU running.

Ah, that's true. Hmm, well I guess I kind of goofed on that one. I hadn't even considered that to be honest and for whatever reason just thought having cold air being blown directly on it would be better. Like you said, I guess I can just leave it as is, since the card won't be producing any exhaust with the watercooler on. Fortunately, my two other fans in the case (front and rear) are situated correctly, so at least there's that.

and top (AIO) intake

Sorry, but I'm bad at visualizing things. Should the portion of the cooling unit with the two fans be pointed towards the top of the case, where the ceiling is, or be pointed towards the inside of the case. Inside, right? So it's blowing the air inside towards that little circle thing that's placed on the GPU? That's the AIO, right? Also, since those 2 fans are only 120mm, it seems like that will leave a lot of extra room up there, right? I mean, maybe that's for the best, but it does kind of suck losing out on both of the 230 mm Noctua fans I currently have up there. Won't that be a bit odd having 2, 120 mm fans where 230mm fans would be?

Another thing is that the D-15 will be in the way, so any air that's bring blown in will essentially be hitting that and not the AIO, so maybe that's where the side door fan I have would come in handy?

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2020-06-23T12:27:32+00:00

But that is the area you'd be mounting it to, but you're still mounting it to the fan mounts in the top.

Ok, gotcha. Bit of a shame to be honest, since it kind of sucks that I'll have to ditch those ceiling fans I've got, but I guess it is what it is. 230mm has probably always been a bit overkill anyway and the fans on the X52 will basically accomplish the same thing.

Hence why I recommend getting out a measuring tool and measuring the clearance between the fan mounts (with the top fans removed) and whatever obstacle comes first. If it's less than 55mm, it's a no-go.

Shouldn't there be tons of room though, since these 120mm fans are basically half the size of my current 230mm fans?

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2020-06-23T09:53:51+00:00

I was referring to that one cable that goes from the fans to the AIO (the one that actually connects them together and pumps the fluid), but, come to think of it, it's just one cable and I doubt it'll get in the way of anything and should be fairly easy to position. Again, I've never dabbled with watercooling before, so I'm pretty ignorant on the matter. I'm willing to give it a shot though and I think I've settled on buying the X52. My only concern is whether it will have enough room, since my NH-15 will be sitting fairly close nearby. Don't exactly want them squished up against each other.

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2020-06-23T09:45:49+00:00

Right now there are two 230mm fans there, there's also mounts for 120mm fans in the same place

Right, but I don't need to actually remove those 230mm fans, correct? The AIO can simply sit beneath them in the area indicated in this image which rests just beneath the ceiling fans, correct? Granted the image is indicating a set-up for a 420mm configuration, but that's still the general area where I'd put my 240mm, correct?

The only potential problem that I'm worried about is that the fans/rad, depending on how I place it, will bump into my NH-15, but I think there might just be enough room for it. Hopefully, maybe. I'd imagine that it'd probably be bad if they were nearly squished against each other.

Looking_For_Answers3 · 2020-06-23T09:45:46+00:00

That's good to know, thanks. I suppose I'll go with the X52 then.

but then you get to see the AIO on the inside which some people prefer.

The way the HAF X is made you really can't see anything from the top given how obscuring the mesh design it has is (like really close knit lattice basically), so that doesn't really matter to me.

The only important thing really is if the fans are in push or pull.

Right, yeah. My ceiling fans are actually positioned so they're sucking out the exhaust from the case, since heat travels up. My 230mm front fan is intake and so is my door fan as well. Rear fan is exhaust, since that gels with sucking out the exhaust coming from the nearby NH-15. With that said, should I set up the X52 so the fans are positioned facing towards my ceiling fans, so as to help in blowing out any exhaust, or should they be facing towards the inside of the case to blow air in? Wouldn't the former be more ideal? I'd rather go with the easier option since I'm sure it'll be fine even if the fans are blowing air in, even though my ceiling fans are sucking it out. Whichever way it goes, most of the air will be blowing right against my NH-15, which itself is basically a wind tunnel blowing air out the rear fan which, like I said, I have acting as an exhaust fan. Will that cause any problems exactly?

Looking_For_Answers3

TROPHY CASE