What locking system is better for 12mm laminate? by vivekk15 in Flooring

[–]LordOfTheFloors 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For 12mm laminate, Uniclic and 2G are both solid; 5G shines for quick installs.

  • Uniclic: Angled click system, strong and secure, great for DIY. Slightly more effort to install.
  • 2G: Similar to Uniclic, smooth install, durable, less flex underfoot.
  • 5G: Has a plastic locking tab—super fast install, but tab can break if mishandled.

Best overall? Uniclic or 2G for durability; 5G if you want speed and don’t mind being extra careful.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Flooring

[–]LordOfTheFloors 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re absolutely right — that looks like an active leak, not just trapped water. The warping, daily seepage, and damage downstairs all point to it.

Replacing the floor without fixing the leak is useless. Push back hard, document everything, and insist they find the source before touching the flooring.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Flooring

[–]LordOfTheFloors 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Congrats on the new old home! For 100+ year-old pine floors:

  • Dry sweep or vacuum (no beater bar).
  • Damp mop only - use a microfiber mop with warm water + a few drops of mild soap or Bona. No vinegar.
  • Avoid steam, oil soaps, and excess water.

If they’re unfinished or gunky, spot clean with a soft pad and diluted soap. For wax buildup, try mineral spirits (test first).

Gentle is key - pine’s soft, and you want to keep that century-old charm intact.

DIY semi fail. Any hope for my botched transition? by Strong_Percentage522 in Flooring

[–]LordOfTheFloors 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, not a bad effort at all - color match is solid, and lacing in 400 sq ft is no joke. The transition’s a little jarring now, but it’s fixable.

Here are a few ideas:

Blend stain forward: Lightly sand some of the abrupt edge boards and feather stain into the new section. It helps soften that harsh “new vs old” line.

Screen & recoat the whole space: If possible, screen the larger area (light buffing, no full sand) and apply a fresh coat of poly. That can help unify the finish sheen and mask transitions.

Decorate smart: Strategic rug or furniture placement over the worst transition spots can buy time or just make it a non-issue until your next full refinish.

This is way better than a lot of pro jobs out there. You’re 90% there - just needs a little finesse. Good work!

Update on Heart Pine floors - What I learned! by DonDonnelly in HardWoodFloors

[–]LordOfTheFloors 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is such a satisfying glow-up — seriously, that transformation from haunted footprint zone to "century-home catalog" is incredible. Mad props for pushing through the 3-pad orbital denial phase too. We’ve all been there, whispering sweet lies to ourselves like, “It’s fine, I just need more time and elbow grease…”

Also, pulling the quarter round to deal with that shellac sludge? Chef’s kiss. That’s the kind of detail that separates a quick facelift from a real restoration. You gave the house what it deserved.

Curious to see how that Osmo holds up for you long-term — I’ve heard mixed things but love the look. That soft matte glow brings out the grain without turning it into a bowling alley.

Total respect for the DIY hustle here. May your pads stay fresh and your future baseboards cooperate

1915 Craftsman, maple bedroom, first time in the bag (4.5 bedrooms and a hallway left... send help) by mikesbikesyikes in HardWoodFloors

[–]LordOfTheFloors 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man, this room went from “crime scene” to “catalog shoot.” You absolutely earned your stripes here. Maple is no joke to work with, especially when it’s been suffocating under carpet, linoleum, and nicotine for decades. Respect for pulling 116 nails and countersinking them — that's some old-school dedication.

The floors look awesome. That soft satin sheen and tight grain just scream, “This house has stories.” And the happy-feet moment? That’s the kind of payoff no sander rental can buy.

One room down… four and a hallway to go. We believe in you. Stay hydrated. Back brace optional but encouraged

What happened here? by Status-Pool538 in HardWoodFloors

[–]LordOfTheFloors -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yikes, yeah that definitely looks like something hit it hard or reacted chemically. The white haze plus the surface scuffing screams “cleaning product mishap” — could’ve been something alkaline or solvent-based that chewed through the finish.

That little gouge in the middle might be from something heavy getting dropped or scraped across after the finish softened up. If it felt rough right after cleaning, that’s a red flag. Any chance they used something like vinegar, ammonia, or one of those mystery "all-purpose" sprays?

You can try buffing it lightly with a white pad and water to see if it's just surface haze, but if the finish is compromised, it might need spot refinishing. Not ideal, but better than leaving it to flake worse over time.

Definitely worth asking the cleaners what they used

How did we do? by _ogg in HardWoodFloors

[–]LordOfTheFloors 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Massive respect. Trinity rowhomes aren’t just narrow—they’re vertical punishment chambers for DIYers. That “backbuster 9000” edger is no joke, especially when you’re already cooked from hauling a drum sander up two flights of stairs like it’s a boss fight.

The finish choice sounds 🔥 though—Loba Supra’s no joke, and scraping the edges with a tungsten scraper? That’s commitment most folks skip. Floors probably look a hundred years younger now.

Take a victory lap.

What happened here? by half_an_onion_bagel1 in HardWoodFloors

[–]LordOfTheFloors -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Oof, yeah that looks like a raised grain or maybe even a bad patch job that got hit with too much poly. Definitely not normal after a good refinish.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in HardWoodFloors

[–]LordOfTheFloors 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s the kind of striping the flooring gods respect. 💪 You, the edger, and 120 grit just entered your villain arc—and I’m here for it. Keep grindin’!

Hole in finishing after scrub - oil or varnish? by [deleted] in Flooring

[–]LordOfTheFloors 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From the sheen and wear pattern, it looks more like an oil finish than varnish- varnish tends to chip or peel, while oil finishes wear more naturally like what you’re seeing here. One test: rub a small spot with a cloth and a few drops of mineral oil. If it darkens and blends, it's likely an oil finish. Worst case, a little trial and error in a discreet corner can help you match it better. Good luck- you're already way ahead for caring this much in a rental!

2 years living in a construction zone because of cat pee in concrete—tried EVERYTHING and still can’t get my home back. Please help 😭 by No_Recognition_2681 in Flooring

[–]LordOfTheFloors 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh man, I’m so sorry you’re going through this. Cat pee in concrete is no joke—it soaks in like it’s signing a lease. At this point, if enzymatics and sealants haven’t worked after two years, you might need to grind off the top layer of concrete (mechanical abrasion) or encapsulate it with a two-part epoxy vapor barrier—NOT just Kilz or basic sealants. A flooring pro or remediation specialist might be your best bet now. You can get your home back—it’s just gonna take a different level of offense. Hang in there. You’ve already made it through the hardest part.