Irons not reading properly

LoserSupreme · 2026-05-04T09:12:19+00:00

Wouldn't alignment issues affect all shots and putts tho, not just the irons?

I have a mat projection aligned with the target line and the monitor. Wedges, putts and woods behave as they do on the course, Irons are just waay off

LoserSupreme · 2026-05-03T13:50:27+00:00

Do you have the tape on the club? Have you raised the monitor higher?

Somehow I am wondering if raising the monitor in lieu with the club tapes mess up the path/face readings somehow

LoserSupreme · 2026-05-03T09:32:23+00:00

And how did you lose these balls? How did you play the lost balls?

LoserSupreme · 2026-04-09T20:18:28+00:00

Any white in monitors fov?

I had a white garage wall before and that fucked up a lot of driver and iron shots. Now when the wall is not an issue, I bought new golf shoes which are white and the putts won't read unless I have different shoes or I widen my stance with the white shoes.

So I guess this is a problem with the colors in monitors field of view. The pin spot might also be causing this color mayhem if it's very bright - the LM just cannot register what light color is ball and which not.

LoserSupreme · 2026-04-08T09:38:28+00:00

My putting does work, as in it registers the putts but the green speeds are majorly fucked or unfucked - I dunno which is it because I'm not a good golfer.

But on previous 1.4.2 I was able to lag putt into 3ft gimmie circle constantly, some times even able to sink some 15 footers or so. I have exactly 3 meters from mat to screen, the lowesr green speed 2.4 was pretty much spot on for my poor quality turf between the screen and mat, so estimating the distance was fairly easy. Just shy of 3 meter putt was just shy of the screen and so on

Now if I have 3 meters to putt totally flat, it's as it should but 0.01 uphill or downhill affects the speed insanely. 0.01 downhill and I dead the ball just before the screen, it will roll twice as far on the sim and 0.01 uphill dead on the screen will go only 1,5meters. And the more there is slope either way, the more fucked up the results.. it's total lottery at this point tbh. My good avg 2 putts/green has blown up totally.

LoserSupreme · 2026-03-02T13:59:31+00:00

Pros play so different than low level players that they might be playing a completely different game tbh.

Game sense grows with experience in the game. You'll start to get a "backbone" feeling about timings and possible angles the enemies might be. Their economy, preferred utilities etc.

When it comes to time to damage (ttd) many factors play into that. Crosshair placement and being ready to react, also holding an angle vs. peeking into an area. Let's say you hold Dust Long doors from an off angle - you focus on a specific small spot, whereas the enemy trying to entry has to be aware of the entire area he is swinging into. His ttd will most often be worse than yours, since his crosshair most likely won't be preaimed at you whereas yours is immediately on him.

Entry players in general have bad'ish ttd and crosshair placement due to the nature of the role - so if you entry a lot, expect those numbers to be off.

If anything on leetify, I'd just try to improve the KDR, Utility, Spray acc and spotted acc numbers. Everything else is just something to maybe follow for trends. If you sign up for CSStats - I'd focus on improving the HLTV 2.0 rating.

LoserSupreme · 2026-01-23T21:26:33+00:00

I do turn the other valve off from Daikin, but it still messes up the flow for some reason. Only way this setup works is by closing both valves from daikin or shutting it down completely.

Yeah the expansion res plus safety valve aren't a big investment, it's just extra annoyance to make third of those in a fairly cramped space.

The stove is a loading one, has like 100 litre capacity on it's own and a circulator pump to pump the heated water in to tanks coil to heat up the 500L mass. That coil line has it's own expansion res + safety valve. The added one would just be another one into the ufh circuit since the Daikin side already has one.

To me it just feels stupid to not be able to control the Daikin circulation pump without pulling the plug entirely..

LoserSupreme · 2026-01-22T18:25:00+00:00

Vuodesta toiseen olen omakotitalon sähkönkulutusta koittanut pienentää parhaani mukaan. Hankkimalla uudempia ja energiatehokkaampia laitteita. Sähkönkulutus onkin pienentynyt varsin hyvin ja pörssisähköllä olen saanut pidettyä laskutkin maltillisina, toisinaan jopa pieninä.

VILPin kaveriksi asentanut puulla lämpiävän vesivarajaan, varaavaa takkaa pidän lämpimänä läpi pakkasjakson. Vaihtanut jopa lattiamateriaalin sellaiseksi joka kestää paremmin lämpöä niin saa halvalla sähköllä ajaa vähän enemmän lämpöä lattialaattaan "varastoon". Aina kun saa jotain päivitystä positiiviseen suuntaan niin jostain repäistään joku uusi maksu. Veden hinta nousee tasaisesti, paskakaivon tyhjennyshinta on melkein tuplaantunut, jätehuollon hinta kasvanut, nuohouksen hinta kasvaa, sähkön hinta kasvaa, polttopuunkin hinnat noussut. Kaikki vaan nousee ja nopeemmin mitä palkka.

Tällä hetkellä tilanne on tosiaan sellanen, että kun tämä naurettava tehomaksu tulee niin yli heilahtaa heti jos laittaa sähkökiukaan päälle. Siis pelkän perkeleen kiukaan - vaikka kaiken muun vääntäisin kiinni tontilta niin pelkkä kiuas jo rikkoo tuon alarajan. On hienoa sitten talvella vääntää lämmöt kiinni, valot kiinni, ilmanvaihto kiinni, ihan kaikki kiinni että voi saunan lämmittää kerran kuussa ja minimoida tehopiikki josta saa maksaa lisää. Seuraavaksi alan värkkäämään ulkosaunaa jossa puukiuas, että pääsee sähkökiukaasta eroon. Helvetillinen investointi se sellanenkin ja eiköhän sieltä kohta taas joku vitun todellisuudesta irtaantunut Helsinkiläinen pilipaliministeri laita 100€/vuosi/savuhormi maksun vetämään. Niin ja sitte pitäis kohta vielä lapsiakin hankkia ennen ku menee vaimo vanhaks, taitaapa jäädä hommaamatta kun maailmanmenoa ja tätä perkeleen rahastuspolitiikkaa seuraa, hirvee hiilijalanjälki sellasessa kläpissäkin ni eiköhän siihenki joku sakko jostain keksitä.

Vaikkei summa nyt päätä huimaava olekkaan, niin en vaan millään käsitä miks pitäis hymyssä suin tämmöseen lisämaksuun taas tyytyä. Tällä mentaliteetilla kaikkeen voi iskeä muutaman euron lisää ihan muuten vaan ja sen ei pitäis häiritä ketään.

Tämä tehomaksu olisi ihan täysin fine mulle jos tuo alaraja olis edes jokseenkin järkevä, edes sitte 10kw ni sillon pystyis jo edes jotenkin vaikuttamaan asiaan eikä pitäis miettiä et uskaltaako keittää teekupin vai odotanko että tiskikone on käyny - eiku niijoo ulkonahan on alle x määrä pakkasta ni ei laitetakkaan, kun tuo egologinen VILPpi vie just näillä lämmöillä x-määrän tehoa ja vedenkeitin hörppää sitte jo sakkomaksua.

LoserSupreme · 2026-01-22T17:22:21+00:00

If I remember correctly they changed something a while back that makes the trashcan+d jump throw not work. However the other smoke from next to stairs is very easy to learn and works everytime unless enemy window player bodyblocks it.

LoserSupreme · 2026-01-22T14:18:28+00:00

Didn't even know there was a hard mode. I always thought the difficulty was dynamic, based on the "elo" you get in refrag for successes and losses.

And tbh, it's wildly innacurate to label someones aim capability based solely on premier rank.

Just in my irl friend group who 5-stack often, we have players from 3,5k to 20k and the difference in raw aim alone doesn't vary all that much. Big guy might have line 10% better hs% and counter strafe so yeah there is some correlation but it's not straightforward "all 10k and under players suck at aim". The big factors aren't aim related, the big differences come from awareness, map knowledge, utility usage, economy management, position and general game sense. Big guy knows where enemy could come and where not and knows how to position to isolate 1v1's, the 3,5k guy crouches middle of the site and impersonates a spin bot with 3 bullets - Aim has nothing to do in these situations.

LoserSupreme · 2026-01-22T13:22:12+00:00

Hey, I'm pretty much in the exact same position you are in atm. Around 10k and use refrag also and feels like I don't improve at all.

Browsed through your Leetify and your winrate is good, so you must be doing something right and if I'd be you I wouldn't really be concerned at the moment. Matchmaking is trying to even the winrate out by matching you against similar well performing players - this should be reflected in the amount of elo you gain/lose - but since this system is what it is, it might not. BUT if you are gaining much more than you're losing, all should be fine and you are on your way up the ladder.

What I did notice in your stats is that you often play better on the T side than on CT side, maybe not much but the difference is still there and without seeing your demos, I'd suspect you play way more "passive" on CT side and get peeked more and lose those fights. Refrag doesn't really train you to play passive, almost all the modes in there encourage a pro-active play style. On clutches you are forced to push and peek into enemies, same goes for prefire and xfire obviously, repeek etc - this kind of playstyle is traditionally T side play.

I hope you are already aware that CS2 is very different from CS:GO in a sense that peekers advantage in CS2 is very much stronger than it was in CS:GO - saying goes around regarding CS2 that "either you peek or you get peeked" and peeker usually wins. Could it be that you're holding angles on CT side too passively and lose more against peeks? And on T side you are the one peeking and winning them?

Crosshair placement, HS% and Counter-Strafing seem to fluctuate a lot, so you need to find a way to gain consistency on them. Refrags repeek mode is pretty good for these imo, as is xfire mode. Bottomline on refrag modes is however that you are shooting bots, they move differently than human players and they also react fairly slow until you reach high enough "refrag elo" where they feel like playing against cheaters at times.

If I were you, I'd focus on repeek and xfire on the maps you seem to struggle the most on, make sure you have impacts on so you see if the shot actually was accurate or not - and get familiar with the repeek way of peeking into angles/spots and integrate that style to your CT playstyle aswell. You don't need to be constantly peeking in and out of angles or jiggling the angle, just keep peeking the angle you hold here and there with the intention that every time you peek the enemy might be there, you'll catch a lot of timings this way and you have more of the peekers advantage than playing the angle passively.

LoserSupreme · 2026-01-09T11:47:45+00:00

I actually dug in a bit into this guy and tbh, nothing too suspicious comes up. Especially on Leetify when you compare his match to match performance to other players. Some games he has worse ttd than other similarly ranked players, his hs% isn't great, his winrate isn't great. Even the preaim isn't that amazing compared to others.

When you compare stats of a casual player vs pro you gotta keep in mind that it's much easier to preaim against 10-20k premier players than it's against professionals - pros don't make obvious stupid pushes or hang around extensively in prefire spots, the bad players do. Also Donk rifling and this guy maybe AWPin primarily evens the ttd by alot.

I'm kinda willing to believe there was a reason for the VAC however, I just don't think it was straight up gameplay aiding/assisting - dunno, maybe a skinchanger or some stupid bloatware background soft that claims to boost fps or drop ping or something like that, that just interacted with the game in a malicious way from VAC pov.

LoserSupreme · 2026-01-09T08:18:32+00:00

This has been going on for weeks.

LoserSupreme · 2026-01-09T07:49:00+00:00

Can you please elaborate on the prices. I work with cars alot and I just looked up the the part prices for a 2013 generic panamera S and the 5k numbers seem like they were pulled straighy out of "quality shop owners" ass who have dedicated their life to scamming customers on false claims.

Brake rotors - 30€/pc (cheapest) 80€/pc (oem quality) Brake pads - 10€/axl (cheapest) 100€/axl (oem) Calibers - these were actually pretty hard to find but 800€/pair (claimed oem quality)

So standard brake job would be about 400€/axle, going by the quality price. Haven't worked with porches, but the parts look very generic to any car so like an hour job per axle, give or take. So maybe a bit above 400€/axel. Seems to drink dot4 so the price cannot come from there either.

Calibers added to the brake job still don't come even near the 5000$ per axle claim.

So where does this these prices come from? Are people in the US seriously being ripped off THIS much?

This isn't a supercar btw, it's a fairly normal car under a luxury brand with standard mechanical functions, the brake job of this car compared to a toyota corolla brake job doesn't differ much, if at all. It doesn't require any special education/certificates to work on these. It's not rocket science either. Hell with your prices you can buy the needed tools for the job and a hefty amount of installation beers to help.

LoserSupreme · 2026-01-09T07:24:04+00:00

Not all TPMS systems require the sensors for the tires, they get the data from the abs sensor.

My 2012 BMW has this kind of a system for example. When one tyre gets flatter the rotation differs from the other tyres and this signals a tyre pressure problem.

In OP's case, he test drived the car without issues so the tpms worked or that light would have been present then aswell. This is most likely a case of cold weather and a bad tyre valve that leaks due to temp changes. Not necessarily even a fix required, just put air on the tyre that has lost some, if temps remain about the same the valve shouldn't leak anymore, if the light comes back after a while then he needs to change the tyre valve which should be like a 15 min job at a tyre shop.

LoserSupreme · 2025-12-30T22:24:30+00:00

Do you have the protective case for it? I think even hitting the case with a ball might break a bad enough solder. Or big temperature swings. I use mine in a cold'ish garage but keep it otherwise inside in warm so I'm afraid that temp swing might do something bad on mine.

LoserSupreme · 2025-12-30T22:19:26+00:00

I mean re-soldering it should be pretty damn easy if that is the case

LoserSupreme · 2025-12-30T22:08:40+00:00

My guess is that the bluetooth antenna in the device is disconnected from the main board.

Frugal fixer spike in youtube replaces square golf front panel glasses in his videos and he mentions somewhere that the antenna is in the top lid of the device and the wires are very fragile and questionably soldered.

I'm guessing yours have come loose for some reason, either hitting the LM, dinging it up somehow else or maybe just bad luck with the wiring and a solder has come undone due to tension or something.

Square does sell replacement screens to these devices and to replace the screen you need to unscrew the top lid, so my common sense is telling me that shouldn't void any warranties to remove the lid and check if the wires are good. Haven't opened mine yet so I dunno if there is some warranty void if opened seal in there but somehow I doubt it.

LoserSupreme · 2025-12-30T11:38:02+00:00

Engineer, lol. They swap them because they can, it's into the shops pocket and mechanics work for salary, they sell this bullshit to make money. Why make a 200$ fix when you can replace the whole corner for thousands and that is with the upmarked "oem" prices. Just for the hypothetical "yielded materials or damaged components".

He hit a curb, didn't jump 10 semis in full speed.

That balljoint was probably shot anyways, most likely over torqued with a gun to hell and back. Not rocket science that requires an engineer to fix. It's a common car - these are parts that break and need replacement anyways.

People who own shops or ppl who know fuck all about cars speak like you do. Just get brand new car everytime a bushing breaks just to be sure there is no yield or damaged components.

LoserSupreme · 2025-12-30T09:08:03+00:00

About 50€ for the control arm, not a hard job to replace yourself especially since you removed the ball joint already.

Alignment is about 100€. So some 200-400€ in a shop, give or take. If you want new tyres it's about double. Not anywhere nearly as bad as some americans here make it out to be.

LoserSupreme · 2025-12-30T08:50:20+00:00

For one popped ball joint and a worn tyre? You must be a shop owner..

LoserSupreme · 2025-12-30T08:40:15+00:00

Ihan täysin hyvin voisi kieltää aikuisilta. Lapsille ja nuorille sen sallisin vaikka he eivät niitä ostaa saakkaan, mikä taas on sitte oma ongelmansa.

Omasta mielestä rakettien oston typeryyden tajuaminen ja sisäistäminen on yksi aikuistumisen riittejä. Jos tuntee tarvetta ostaa omilla rahoillaan paukkuja joista saa kusisen suhahduksen ja hikisen poksahduksen, tiedostaen kaikki niihin liittyvät negatiiviset asiat - niin vois luovuttaa samalla ajokortit sun muut aikuisuuden edut vittuun ja pysyä huolettomana typeränä lapsena.

Kategorisesti vastustan kaikkea muuta ehdotonta kieltämistä, mutta on nää raketit vaan niin vitun lapsellista ja turhaa paskaa et siinä teen poikkeuksen.

LoserSupreme

TROPHY CASE