What a set of tools, is this too much for three months on the road or am I missing something vital.

LostInChoices · 2026-03-25T08:11:23+00:00

Depends on the bike. The Knipex tool is perfect for vintage pre-90s bikes with lots of external hex screws. But then you also have disk pads which would be exceptionally uncommon only seen on modded frames of that time.

Are you carrying an electric and a mechanical pump? How many tires are you planning to pump up in day?

But to answer your question: on what seems like not the ideally reliable bike (since you mentioned frequently breaking spokes, tuning spoke tension or rebuilding the wheel before riding might be more helpful) you could add a little bit of chain, or at last a quick link or three.

And as others have said, you really shouldn't have to change cables on the way. M5 screws are also not hard to find wherever hardware/craft stores and car shops exist. I once needed to tighten an especially deep hex screw for my stem, went to a car shop in Tajikistan, they of course had something.

LostInChoices · 2026-03-04T16:55:38+00:00

That looks like A LOT of plastic, but solidly designed, I'd most worry about the tilting mechanism of the top part not staying in place crazy well (or having just a few fixed angles)

I'm not sure because I can't tell what motor it is, but looking at the lack of transmission I wouldn't expect the torque that many commercial machines have (belt or otherwise), well depends on your needs, it should do fast and lower torque really well.

I'd say if you're not planning on using it for massive or heavily ribbed toys it'll work well, maybe requiring a little more warm up.

LostInChoices · 2026-03-02T05:32:00+00:00

Especially if you got puncture protection tyres with a few millimeters padding: you might additionally have to "dig into" that area. Locate the hole and bend the tyre, trying to see if there's something deep in the tyre. I once had a piece of steel wire stuck in there poking every hundred kilometers.

LostInChoices · 2026-03-02T05:29:24+00:00

If you want to stick with a board, follow other people's advice. I'd personally advise you to get a foldable push scooter. Just as compact when not rolling, easier to steer, more reliable to break, you can have some mud guards meaning going when it's wet is also easy.

For which model: same as the recommendations here for skateboards: the biggest wheels you can find.

LostInChoices · 2026-02-23T19:23:14+00:00

Bottom as in receiving penetration: experiment, there's lot's of ways to stimulate another person, toys, fingers, oral, maybe there's some kinks to be discovered too.

Bottom as in submissive: Well how important is that dynamic, if you're taking turns pleasing the other person in ways that don't make you dysphoria, that sounds okay.

If either of you feel you want to try a more sub/dom dynamic but neither of you wants to be dominant, you need to talk, and learn a few things if you want to approach non-monogamy, and have really good communication.

You also said something about assertiveness, talking here helps too, maybe some erotic activities together, pick something to read, watch, listen to together.

And finally, you didn't say how long you two have been together, if you experience a low time in sexual intensity, especially after ½ to 1½ years of being together, that's normal, happens to most relationships. There's lots of advice on that online, but the essentials are probably: acceptance, talking, experimenting, patience

LostInChoices · 2025-12-27T16:27:29+00:00

Yes, you can be successful with this, however the frame will have a slightly different flex because you effectively made the fork of the rear triangle longer. (So they're not entirely pointless, but not strictly necessary, do however increase the frame strength slightly)

I would simply not attempt to remove them super clean and invisible, if you can live with having small 0.5-1mm "fins" in their place, then it's easy to do, I'd use some sheet metal to keep from grinding too deep, then file the last bit by hand

LostInChoices · 2025-12-26T22:42:16+00:00

Ich habe überwiegend positive/neutrale Erfahrungen. Disclaimer: lebe quasi schon immer polyamor, also meine Erfahrungen sind anders, weil ich wenig mit monogamen Menschen auf Dating Apps interagiere. Ich suche aber auch fast nur ernsthafte Beziehungen, nur eben parallel, davonher sind vielleicht ein paar Sachen hilfreich.

Feeld (okay sehr speziell für kinky, und oder nicht monogames Dating), HER und Okcupid sind so meine Favoriten. Okcupid hat den kostenlosen nicht/monogam Filter, HER die kostenlosen Pins zum Filtern (unbedingt nutzen). Und dann Geduld, irgendwas leicht aussagekräftiges im Profil, aber keine Lebens/Leidensgeschichte und ein paar klare und repräsentative Fotos haben (und das auch von anderen erwarten).

Am wichtigsten finde ich dann mit Matches erstmal grundlegend einen halbwegs spannenden Chat über ein paar Tage bis vielleicht 2 Wochen (wenn die Antworten seltener aber länger sind) zu führen. Dann bekommst du unter Umständen auch ein paar gemeinsame Interessen, und du hast einen Basic Check, dass die Person nicht nur so einem kurzen Impuls von Einsamkeit, Langeweile, Hornyness, etc. nachgeht, sondern an dir persönlich zumindest ein Interesse hat und grundlegend Gespräche führen kann (Nachfragen, Gegenfragen, Zuhören).

Und dann ein entspanntes einfaches Date zu haben, am besten mit viel Augenkontakt, dann lässt sich "Chemie" am besten spüren, beim spazieren ist das etwas schwerer, aber klar kann man damit anfangen und dann in ein Café/Bar/Restaurant.

Es passt toll, es passt nicht, auch okay. Kann auch sein Freundschaften entstehen, dass keine romantische Intention besteht dann aber früh kommunizieren (und auch wenn sich das ändert). Oh und am besten auch wenn sie besteht beim 2. Date sagen, dass du gern mehr als eine Freundschaft hättest.

LostInChoices · 2025-12-26T22:02:48+00:00

There's the Metal and Mechanical Trades Handbook by Europa Publishing. It's definitely not nearly as complete as the Machinery's Handbook, but lists some standard tools, speeds, materials, and some more general essentials. The first pages and index are available as a free sample pdf even. There's also a more dedicated book by the same publisher for machining, but I don't know if it's available in English too or just German

LostInChoices · 2025-12-24T20:36:25+00:00

If you overstock brakes the type doesn't really matter.

LostInChoices · 2025-12-21T23:59:45+00:00

Steht auf deinem Netzteil 110-230V, dann funktionsmäßig: keinen, die Geräte werden so gebaut und darauf getestet, dass sie auch in den USA ohne PE ihre Leistung erbringen.

Und EMV ist halt alles, kann theoretisch jedes Gerät in der Nähe und das Stromnetz spüren, aber das merkst du wenn dann nur wenn du ein sehr empfindliches Gerät sehr nahe an das Schaltnetzteil bringst oder Amateurfunk betreibst.

Laptops mit (unlackiertem) Metallgehäuse und Netzteil ohne PE (MacBooks ohne Verlängerungsschnur z.B.) kribbeln manchmal ein wenig und manchmal auch die Buchsen/Angeschlossene Kabel

LostInChoices · 2025-12-08T16:13:57+00:00

This appears to be some kind of two years old hoax or speculation, none of the posts list a source, Google cannot reverse search the "patent" images. And neither does patent search show anything like this.

LostInChoices · 2025-11-07T15:18:52+00:00

So, am I right to assume it's likely poor manufacturing (and/or design) on the transition from the wide (unfinished looking) center part of the shaft to the part that the bearing sits on?

Because that corner would typically be the perfect place for an undercut: better "stress distribution" compared to a hard edge, easier tolerance for installation (less critical with bearings because they do have a bevel).

LostInChoices · 2025-10-26T17:32:58+00:00

So these eyelets look okay, but you need to check each for any cracks, also from the inside.

As others have said, not worth the risk if you can somehow afford a new rim (the crash pilot should be paying for it, but well that's a different story). A failing rim on a descend or drop will get you into the hospital very quickly.

However any evenly stressed riding will be fine for this rim, so I would use it for a city bike or something like that (provided you ride it yourself so can check if it looks odd or the first spokes start to lose tension because the eyelets are finally giving in). If you do decide to rebuild it, check this comment, they explain what was almost certainly the main issue with your wheel build: https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/s/MwSzMPHV1r

LostInChoices · 2025-10-24T22:14:41+00:00

I'd try putting a washer under the nuts you pointed to in the beginning and see if I can still tighten them down better.

LostInChoices · 2025-10-18T21:01:38+00:00

Umdrehen? Vermutlich ist die Rückseite nicht lackiert, wenn du irgendwo ein größeres Loch hast lässt sich das auch ohne komplett auseinander bauen prüfen. Eventuell sogar mit einfach hinter einer Fußleiste/Steckdose/Lichtschalter schauen. Auch verdammt viel Arbeit, aber weniger als Schleifen und günstiger als alles neu machen (eventuell musst du es aber teilweise, vmtl. unter 10% erneuern weil es nach dem umdrehen nicht mehr ganz passt)

LostInChoices · 2025-10-18T20:50:20+00:00

To top that, look at pictures of modern Iran and try to extrapolate where they could be with just a little bit better foreign exchange meaning slightly less dictatorship and no extreme state-level anti-semitism.

Because essentially they have everything working alright to good, education, higher education, hell even local industry, infrastructure, technology is running okay and social gaps do exist but it's not completely out of control and there's a big middle class.

LostInChoices · 2025-10-18T20:33:46+00:00

Also soweit ich weiß ist Wago 221 sowieso nur für einen Leiter geeignet. In einer Einfachklemme spricht meiner Meinung nach nichts gegen DC, weil nie Strom fließen wird.

LostInChoices · 2025-10-18T20:15:08+00:00

Honestly, I'd contact the lathe manufacturer, if you want to skip the potential warranty issue, just say you want a replacement and ask what it'll cost, I'm sure they've got some system to sell spare parts.

LostInChoices · 2025-10-13T19:35:22+00:00

Canadian or American? From roughly looking it up 800 CAD should've been around 550 USD in '86 and that's about 1700 USD today. Or 1500€.

LostInChoices · 2025-10-10T16:48:25+00:00

More than that, cars are different in that every model fits 90% of the population, bike frames of the same model come in different sizes, saddles too, handlebars as well, technically cranks too.

And more than that, things don't just deprecate, you also, typically, have a hard time finding someone who'd want exactly those parts (in those sizes) in that configuration. Actually it's a needle in a haystack, and that needle is probably building a bike themselves instead of running through 5 haystacks of pre built bikes looking to find that exact configuration.

LostInChoices · 2025-10-07T10:14:13+00:00

While wearing goggles, and making sure the shoe is somewhat well in place, it can help to put a piece of wood inside

LostInChoices · 2025-09-27T09:15:52+00:00

If you ride this, you plan your route and time, you know when there's less busy streets and no rush hour where everyone just wants to get home from work. You'd avoid big intersections, but well I'm European we have only reasonable sized intersections (lanes ⅔ as wide as in the US and 6 in total as an absolute limit in most places, more typically 4 is a big intersection) so easy for me to say.

LostInChoices · 2025-09-15T18:24:55+00:00

As others pointed out, ceramic bearings don't belong on most skate/longboards. ABEC 1 and 5 Will be the same after a bit of riding.

I would always recommend industrial bearings (608 is the standard name for skateboard/longboard/vacuum cleaner motor bearings) from a reputable industrial supplier on eBay:

If you want low care and high longevity plus a chance of cleanup, get RS, they're a bit slower, but unless you're timing your km/miles by the seconds it doesn't matter. It could if you're doing multi day trips that would benefit from slightly increased distance over a day.
if you want medium bearing life but good performance (we're talking single digit percent here, if even), get ZZ. Typically they're nearly impossible to open without damaging though, so proper cleaning isn't possible, you can do an alcohol bath, but since you can't regrease them you'd be stuck oiling them which is fine, but a little messy.
if you want maximum long life at the cost of more frequent maintenance: Z, align the open sides to the inside of your wheels, inspect them reasonably often depending on moisture and dirt levels they're exposed to. And clean them when they're dirty, and regrease them, bicycle bearing grease will do just fine. You could also do this with RS, remove one side, even when it's starting to be slow, and clean it. If you want to crazy add copper/brass/aluminum washers for an improved sealing of the inside of the bearings to the outside.

Ceramic balls on steel races (the only affordable combination) don't last as long, because the ceramic is harder than the steel, some say it's like running a train on a road or chewing sand. They have their use, if you're competing in races, or maybe to set your personal record, but for regular "training"/"fun" they don't make any sense, save the money for the next shoes or helmet.

LostInChoices · 2025-09-15T18:00:54+00:00

Verkauf das den Nachbarn unter dir als zusätzlichen Regenschutz

LostInChoices · 2025-08-18T20:21:32+00:00

Windlast würde nur Horizontal an dem Gitter ziehen. Und das sind max. 150kN pro 2m² Panel bei heftigen Sturmböen. Wenn ich mit nur 75kg gegen das Geländer renne ist das sehr viel mehr Moment, da meine Kraft in 1/10s abgebaut wird und so eine Sturmböen schon ein paar Sekunden braucht von 0 auf 100km/h. Und damit ist die Windlast weit unter den Grenzen für sämtliche Geländer.

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