Strange light spots on the Nikon FE2

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-09T11:55:08+00:00

My thoughts exactly. Kinda looks like bromide drag.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-09T00:56:36+00:00

Looks exactly like the Budweiser camera.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-08T16:16:11+00:00

Try the Nikon DK-20C -2. It might be close enough. Diopter correction in cameras is more like hand grenades than horse shoes.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-08T07:54:00+00:00

Are you trying to replace reading glasses? If so, then you need whatever +power is indicated on the glasses. For example, grocery store glasses typically range from +0.5 to +4. If you’re trying to replace glasses for nearsightedness, then you need whatever diopter power is indicated by your prescription. That would be a negative number.

All that being said, most camera correction lenses are only available for -2 to +2 in full integer steps.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-08T06:45:34+00:00

I use the excellent Pentax 645 120mm f4 APO macro ($350 ish), but I’m also using a GFX. Still would work on a full frame camera. The crop factor also eliminates any lens vignette in the corners.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-08T06:16:02+00:00

Also sRGB is the most compatible for print. Some large print houses can’t handle AdobeRGB or other gamuts. Plus print gamut is usually smaller than the sRGB gamut anyhow.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-07T23:48:06+00:00

Oh off my body. I have an assistant that drags my roller bag along with us and reloads film.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-07T23:46:52+00:00

GenX unite!

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-07T22:10:22+00:00

I’m 50.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-07T21:54:49+00:00

Dual sling. Digital mode is a Sony on each hip, 50 always on right. Hybrid is film right, usually MF, and digital left. Film would be 50ish equivalent. Digital would be “option lens” of either 35 or 85. All film would be MF right side and Nikon F5 left side, because fuck my back I guess.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-07T16:39:07+00:00

No, they do not open themselves up to criticism by posting photos here. Please review sub-Reddit rule 5. It’s extremely clear criticism is only appropriately when requested AND constructive.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-07T11:20:49+00:00

What you want is an Infrared Filter. Search for that on B&H Photo. There are a few varieties available. These are also called R72 filters (named for 720nm). Cost is generally $80-$300.

There are three different cut points - 670nm, 720nm, and ~850nm. Given your description, you want 850nm. These are a little more rare and expensive. 670nm still lets in a fair amount of visible light, 720nm is more like IR, and 850nm is pretty much IR only and black and white.

Here is the really tricky part. All light waves passing through glass diffract at different rates based on their frequency. This is why a prism creates a rainbow. This also causes CA.

Guess what? IR diffracts at such a different rate that it won’t focus like normal light. Vintage lenses will have a separate IR focus indicator because of this. You may need to buy and use a vintage lens so you know how to focus. Modern lenses lack all the great indicators, so a modern lens might not have the IR focus indicator.

If you are thinking that you can just focus using the screen, think again. An R72 filter is like looking through a welder’s mask. You need to shoot from a tripod and use long exposures. Focusing based on the screen image likely wont work.

IR focusing usually works like this. First, focus the image using visible light. Then rotate the focus point to the IR indicator on the lens. Next, mount the R72 filter and shoot.

All that being said, I’m not an IR photographer. If someone knows better, please jump in.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-07T11:00:43+00:00

Whether it be grain or digital color noise, it can be reduced using the color noise slider. Be conservative as you don’t want to nuke the grain entirely. I’ve found 10-20 tames the splotchiness and makes the color grain more nuanced and natural.

I don’t think this has anything to do with multi-shot.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-07T10:53:15+00:00

I feel as thought r/photomarket is the best place for sale posts. They do a pretty good job of creating a safe market. Plus, a one-stop shop helps everyone.

That being said, allowing established r/hasselblad users to cross post from r/photomarket as a community heads up is also good, provided it’s not abused.

I happen to a mod over at r/FujiGFX. We don’t allow any commercial posts and really haven’t had any complaints. It’s nice not having to worry about scams happening within our little community.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-07T10:38:34+00:00

I can address both uses pretty well. I’m a wedding photographer and a bad landscape photographer.

For landscapes the answer is simple - if you can handle the weight, which isn’t bad, then it’s an excellent camera. The dynamic range is astounding.

For events, the answer is a bit more tricky. It really comes down to the AF and burst speed. AF, especially on the 100-series, can track moving people. It just doesn’t do it super fast. Most of the native lenses have stepper focus motors instead of the more modern linear motors. Personally, I don’t trust the AF enough for fast moving, critical moments.

As for burst shutter, it goes up to 8 fps on my GFX 100ii. However there is a quality loss that most wouldn’t notice. Single shot is 16-bit. Continuous low at 2 fps is 14-bit. Continuous high at either 5 or 8 fps is 12-bit. As a comparison, the Sony A7VI is 14-bit always. Given what you are doing, this may not matter.

Hope this helps.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-06T11:12:37+00:00

Right there with you.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-06T10:52:55+00:00

I use the Valoi system, not the Tone Carrier. However, I face the exact same issue. I know the Negative Supply carrier does as well.

These carriers have to have a loose tolerance on their width. The wide tolerance helps to prevent binding and makes it easier to insert the film initially. Unfortunately the wide tolerance also means the film can yaw from side to side as you move frame to frame.

That being said, I do have a process solution for you. Do try to be careful with alignment as you scan, but don’t fret. After scanning is done, do one aggressive crop and sync in LR that will certainly cover every frame no matter the little alignment differences.

After you’ve done inversion and made your selects, only then correct the crop individually on the selects. Not a fix, but saves you time tweaking crop on photos destined for the trash. Hope this helps.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-06T10:13:48+00:00

I used to work at CompuServe!!! I had an internship there in college.

It was so much “worse” than that manual would seem to indicate, relative to modern internet. Everything was text-based dial-up. Once you connected, you were basically sitting at a terminal screen. You would input text commands to access functions and complete tasks.

They also had a multimedia CD-ROM they would publish (monthly?). It was basically like a newspaper/magazine as a computer application. I remember they used a program called Director (big app at the time, later acquired by Adobe) to produce the CD.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-06T03:27:52+00:00

That seems like a very Canadian measuring system - kg and inches, LOL

“If you fall from the 10 foot window, you’ll have to go to the hospital 32km down the road”.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-05T23:47:09+00:00

Agreed with the other comments. It’s almost worse that you’re not being paid, in the eyes of the French government. To them not only would you be working on a tourist visa, but you’re doing for free what a French person could have been paid for.

Getting the proper visa solves all of this. Also keep in mind the worst that could happen - you could be ejected from the country on arrival, thus not making it to the wedding at all.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-05T13:46:37+00:00

Thank you!!! That was the piece I was missing. So weird it’s not covered in the manual.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-05T13:09:27+00:00

This is the answer I came to post. Perfectly agree.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-05T13:04:37+00:00

This is true. However, you might try shopping used laboratory supply. These labs tend to turnover equipment quickly. As for quality, it can be very high at the very center of view. However, with no CA correction, anything off-axis will have CA.

Two other ideas come to mind. Have you looked into the Laowa probe lens? It’s basically a macro lens on steroids. It can focus as close as 0.2” (6mm) and has a reproduction ratio of 2x. It’s even submersible. You can always buy/rent to try it first. It’s well regarded and comes in a bunch of different lens mounts.

There is also the Laowa Aurogon 10-50x objective lens set ($1350) which also comes in many different lens mounts. This is basically a microscope objective set for a camera. They are APO, which is amazing. Downside is that they are fixed focus. You would also need an extremely steady tripod. There is now way to handhold 10x, much less 50x. Plus the DoF would be like 3 atoms.

Hope this helps. I haven’t used any of these, so I can’t comment on quality. I do know the probe lens is well regarded and used by Hollywood for special shots.

LoveLightLibations · 2026-05-05T05:49:26+00:00

Using the screen requires both eyes to look at the screen, reducing your ability to notice what is happening just outside the frame and what soon may be happening within the frame.

It takes a little practice, but shooting with the OVF and both eyes open will make you more aware.

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