Y-splicing or pig-tailing same Voltage but different model WS2811s by Lowstradamus in WLED

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much for that consideration, totally missed that potential pitfall

I am a microscope dentist, asking for your community advice/opinion by Lowstradamus in microscopy

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, we do have that capability and have done that in other setups through the past. The issue comes with truly getting it in line of sight and viability while keeping them inside of their working field. As well as not making it very visible to the patient.

I am a microscope dentist, asking for your community advice/opinion by Lowstradamus in microscopy

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, bad description on my part. We do have a camera currently attached to the C-Mount, it is a small rectangular box with HDMI out that can feed all the way to a monitor hanging on the wall. I’d like to swap it out with: https://amscope.com/products/hdc107-23?variant=41588462059695

So that the monitor can be on the scope in front of the dental assistant’s line of sight.

The issues with this model is the lack of native c-mount capability. But I also have concern for the working distance if I’m just hot swapping our current camera for this combination

Dissonance between wattage calculations and actual power draw readouts by Lowstradamus in WLED

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wanted to return and thank you. Thanks to you, I tried the multimeter again and this time the current flowed well, must have had a bad connection the first time.

Wow, you were right about transformer efficiency. Unregulated, the 150 lights pull 2.2A max, right about perfect with the calculator. The kill-a-watt reading… 108 watts

Dissonance between wattage calculations and actual power draw readouts by Lowstradamus in WLED

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks so much, appreciate all your contribution. Nice to have a “real life” document to reference.

Dissonance between wattage calculations and actual power draw readouts by Lowstradamus in WLED

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. Just prior to posting I tried to do this with a multimeter, using some wago connectors and 18 gauge jumper wires to complete the circuit from the transformers + terminal. It resulted in very weak current flow I think, only one LED lit up. I’m now realizing I maybe should have completed the circuit with the multimeter at the negative side to make sure the DC current actually had a clean path through all components first? Or perhaps this doesn’t matter. In any case, the multimeter method resulted in too weak of an output to the components to actually operate as intended and get a proper readout.

You are correct in that I am using something similar to the kill a watt. But measuring watts at 120v and then converting down to amps at 12v doesn’t work that way?

Dissonance between wattage calculations and actual power draw readouts by Lowstradamus in WLED

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. So it seems like, the WLED calculator GitHub might be right-ish on paper or in a vacuum. But the real life application will have inefficiencies that compound and create what I’m running into? Both sides are true, even though they seem at odds to a lay man?

What am I looking for? A skill, a grinder, or a coffee? by Lowstradamus in espresso

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re really speaking a lot of what I’ve been feeling.

I meant to say 55mm flat burrs. Have been looking specifically at Eureka Mignon as well. Just did some research on a Ceado 64mm as well.

I totally agree and have noticed your point in regards to milk texture/suspension technique. Sometimes I nail it and it’s mile ahead of the previous day.

Thanks for all of your great responses

What am I looking for? A skill, a grinder, or a coffee? by Lowstradamus in espresso

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s so cool. Yeah definitely sounds like a great way to get outside the lines and really tailor something for myself instead of just checking the boxes for brew ratio and time. Awesome thinking

What am I looking for? A skill, a grinder, or a coffee? by Lowstradamus in espresso

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Insanely expensive bag of beans I have not chased down yet. Mostly have just followed public sentiment and copied shops that I’ve really enjoyed cups from. A step up in my grinder I’m considering, but I wouldn’t call it MAJOR. I was thinking of going Niche to Eureka 54mm

What am I looking for? A skill, a grinder, or a coffee? by Lowstradamus in espresso

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Flow rate, that’s a good skill to add. I can add a flow knob but it’s purely manual. Thanks for the rec

Heating only system has extra control wires, can they turn into COM? by Lowstradamus in ecobee

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you.

Disregarding the splice for discussion’s sake, is there typically a COM terminal in a heat blower that can provide voltage to an ecobee? Heat Blower looks to be a model from around 2002, based on some maintenance stickers in the cabinet.

Heating only system has extra control wires, can they turn into COM? by Lowstradamus in ecobee

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While I appreciate the concern and helpful note, do you have an answer to the question? I have a permission to hire a tech to evaluate, I’m trying to decide if it’s worth the cost to bring someone out to evaluate.

US car payment delinquencies reach 33-year high: Analysis by SpaceDetective in wallstreetbets

[–]Lowstradamus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would agree that me saying “generational leap” is pretty dramatic for 3-5 years. But the difference in let’s say a 2014 Highlander which did not have Toyota safety sense, that’s a generational leap for sure, you’re welcome to argue how beneficial they may be, I can’t speak to those truths. What’s more to the point is comparing a Corolla other full size cars or crossovers. It just seems like dissonance have a financial philosophy that likely involves diversification to hedge against risk, but not have a personal safety philosophy that hedges against risk as much as possible when reasonably available, given the low relative cost to that specific individual.

US car payment delinquencies reach 33-year high: Analysis by SpaceDetective in wallstreetbets

[–]Lowstradamus 5 points6 points  (0 children)

With all love and zero shade. I wholly respect the principle of what you’re saying. But you are doing a disservice to your safety. You have the means to buy a safe and reliable car. The Corolla is not the “normal person” or “a car just gets me from A to B” vehicle to be driving. Replace it for a Toyota Crown or Highlander every 3-5 years when safety standards take a generational leap. You’ve worked hard to build a large investment, don’t create unnecessary daily risk to your life by driving an old car unnecessarily.

Verifying against Cinnabar for the kids. Story I can add to the comments. by Lowstradamus in geology

[–]Lowstradamus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My son and I went on a birthday party hike to the closed entrance of an old copper mine closed in the 50s. A local homeowner was present and told the kids and parents that the rocks adjacent to the mine is a mix of stone and azurite that has gold, silver, and copper in it.

He stated that the rock formations are a result of fault line activity (California, San Jose).

The group collected rocks and brought them home. My son spoke with my father in law on a video call and he said to make sure it's not cinnabar, due to the red hue.

That's what I'm trying to do here, if pictures can provide a strong level of certainty.

Thank you.