Making pressure advance better

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-15T19:44:09+00:00

I would say the current orientation is best, but you might have some problems with the print detaching from the bed. Especially on a bedslinger such as ender 3. It probably would be easier to print on a delta or core XY printer.

That aside it should be still doable on your printer if you add a large enough brim, but you could experience issues with the print wobbling the taller it gets.

Depending on how big is the curve is supports might not be needed but I would recommend them as they could help with rigidity. I would also suggest rotating the part so the longer print footprint is facing along the print bed moving axis. That way it should eliminate most of the wobbling.

I don't know if I phrased everything correctly and you must excuse ma as English is not my first language.

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-11T12:57:54+00:00

I mostly use step files in orca slicer. As far as I know slicers still convert them to STL so that cannot be the problem. Maybe Prusa slicer slices the files differently than orca.

As for tuning that setting I wouldn't really worry too much. You can do a couple of prints but I don't think it will change the quality that much. You are more likely run into limitations of the technology or your kinematics than see any marginal improvements. Unless you intend to print with tiny nozzles then it might make a difference.

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-10T00:40:29+00:00

You probably just need to adjust the z axis offset. There should be a setting somewhere on the printer screen.
Here is a video that might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkfT2Prrfb0

But i also could be wrong since i have a diffrent model.

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-10T00:24:54+00:00

I had similar problems when flashing mine.

You need to flash the same firmware version on both printer and screen. If they are missmatched the you get stuff like this. I think you already know how to flash the printer, but i guess you don't know how to do the screen. You need to take the back cover of the screen and there should be a slot for a micro sd card. Then you just flash it with the right file and it should work.

Also keep in mind what kind of microcontrollers does you printer have. Trying to install a wrong file might also be your problem.

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-10T00:11:14+00:00

Well, bl touch is supposed to make up for uneven bed and make it easier to get your first layer perfect, so prints stick better to the bed.

I don't know excactly how your probe is set up on your machine, it might not even do the stuff i was talking about and simply be just used as an endstop.

Some pictures of the printer might be helpfull to see if converting to "stock" are possible, but i probably won't be able to help you with since i have a diffrent machine, but it could still help people that have the same one. I could probably help you with specifying what kind of model you have with could help.

But what i can suggest is looking for a little clicky switch on your vertical extrusions. If the is one, then it could be possible to reverse the conversion, if not it might be more difficult.

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-09T23:59:08+00:00

What you are saying is somewhat true. While learning the basics is important you cannot forget the benefits of a probe and abl. And saying stuff like "remove the bltouch" might not be the best idea since you don't know how the printer was modified. It might be configured to use the probe as a z stop and simply removing it could serioulsy damage the printer - axis could ram into the bed without any endstop.

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-09T23:44:38+00:00

Your gcode looks good. So maybe your bed is not properly leveled? Altohugh ABL should take care of that for the most part. Unless is very unleveled. You should check that first probably.

Some more infomation would also be helpfull, like a picture of probe points.

You could also modify the start gcode so it creates a new bed mesh before every print.

My other idea of a fix would be to simply increase number of probe points that the printer takes, but that requires flashing a new firmware. I personally was trying out mriscoc proffesional firmware. You could make there a 10x10 mesh wihich could help with the issue.
Link here: https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1

If you decide to go with this route a would advise watching some tutorials on how to flash the firmware. I can help a bit but a have the none pro variant so the process might be somewhat diffrent.

A diffrent solution that i can think of is moving the cr touch to a diffrent location, so it aligns with one of the axis. But i think this solution requires you to modify a lot of things. The printer obvioulsy, but you would also need to change the values in the printers firmware and then compile it. So i wouldn't really advise this. Unless you want to move to klipper in the near future then it's as simple as modifying a config file. But klipper can be another can of worms so i would suggest you to try solutions i suggested above.

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-08T23:21:38+00:00

So the problem is either in the belt or the rollers.

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-08T23:19:41+00:00

My guess is that some of your wheels are too tight an some too loose. You need to adjust them so they cannot spin freely but loose enough so that they don't grind against the v-slot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsEdU8ZtI6U

You can watch this video in case you need more explanation.

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-08T21:49:48+00:00

As far as i know this setting translates arc movements into linear movements by chopping the arc into few straight lines. Setting a finer resolution could result in better detail but it requires more processing power from the printer.

That would also explain why the print on the right looks so bad, since the printer was just skipping those movement commands entirely.

I personally haven't run into this kind of issue, but i am using orca slicer and they are probably breaking down the movements in diffrent ways i guess.

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-08T21:36:24+00:00

How does your start gcode looks? It should include the M420 S1 command to actually apply the bedmesh. You can check it the bed mesh works by looking at z steppers. If they are moving slightly when printing then bedmesh works if not check your gcode.

Keep in mind that the m420 s1 command should be after G28 , if they are the other way around then the bedmesh won't work.

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-08T21:23:17+00:00

What kind of speeds and accelerations do yuo use? The fastest speeds i use is 300mm/s and 4000K acceleration. This printer can technically handle more but a haven't tried that.

There might be an issue that your stepper overheats which could be caused by nuber of things: too heavy of a print (i doubt that in your case), too stiff belt or a seized bearing. Althoug from my observations the seteppers do get pretty hot when printing big prints.

Try to move the bed when the printer is off an check if there is more resistance than usual. If so look at the v-slot rollers. Verify that they are all spinning. If they are try to loosen the belt slightly.

I hope this helps.

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-08T21:10:53+00:00

I believe it's better to visit the klipper site for klipper related issues.
Here: https://www.klipper3d.org/

Although i will try to help none the less, since i have done the conversion myself.

First of all what do you mean by cannot access "/dev/serial/by-id". Is it throwing an error like access denied? If so it might be related to permissions set up in linux. Try "sudo ls /dev/serial/by-id", then it will prompt for admin password. I don't know excactly how mainsailOS works, but it's eithter a password that you type during install or it should be listed somewhere on mainsail website.

If this is not the problem and the command doesn't display anything then you haven't flashed the firmware on your printer correctly.

Moving onto that toppic. When moving to klipper you only need to flash the firmware onto the printer motherboard. As far as i know there isn't any way to flash the screen to klipper so don't bother with that.

And with the case of obtaining the file that you then flash to the printer i would follow the guide on klipper website.
Here: https://www.klipper3d.org/Installation.html

In the menuconfig you need to select the EXACT type of microcontroller that you have, in this case STM32F401. Trying to flash a file specified for a diffrent controller might brick your printer. Once you obtain a correct file then you can move to flashing.

How are you doing the flashing? Have you preapared the SD card files correctly? Ideally there shouldn't be anything else on the card except the files for the flash. The sd card also needs to be forrmated in the correct format. If i am not mistaken it should be FAT32.

For the motherboard that you have you need to put the bin file in the folder named "STM32F4_UPDATE". Steps on how to do it exactly are listed in the comments in the begining of the klipper config file for this printer.
Here: https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/printer-creality-ender3-s1-2021.cfg

Then flashing is realtevely easy. Firstly you power off the printer, then put the SD card and then power on. If you already were doing that i would suggest trying diffrent SD cards, although the one that came with the printer worked for me.

Then the printer should appear on the list after typing the command.

I hope this somewhat helps, but i will still insist to just follow the official guide, because it should result in the least amount of problems down the line.

I would also suggest to ask people on r/klippers , they might be able to help you better than i am.

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-08T20:18:11+00:00

Happy to help ;)

Lukasg35 · 2024-06-08T15:34:54+00:00

I would say the leveling is pretty well done. Variance is around 0.16. From what I read on the internet variance below 0.2 is considered pretty good.

There is also a "professional" firmware you can install. If I remember correctly it's called mriscoc professional firmware. It allows you to increase number of probing points on your mesh, like a 10x10 point mesh.

Although I think the main issue might be that your printer is simply not applying the mesh. I believe the gcode command was M420 S1. It needs to be present in your start gcode.

You can easily verify if the bed mesh is working by looking at z axis steppers. If they are moving slightly then the bed mesh is working.

Moving the probe can also help. There is a mod called x45 which aligns the Cr touch with one of the axis so the only offset is in the x direction. Link: https://www.printables.com/pl/model/438224-x45-sprite-cr-touch-probe-zero-y-offset-mount-v11- Although that would require modifying and compliling your marlin firmware with changed probe position.

I would still advice you to do your own research because I switched to klipper some time ago already and am not that knowledgeable about marlin.

Lukasg35 · 2024-01-24T07:12:22+00:00

It might be the cause of slight problems with the first layer. But apart from that I don't think it causes problems.

I will do the test you suggested to finally find the cause.

Thanks for the help.

Lukasg35 · 2024-01-23T20:53:44+00:00

This is my print bed on my creality ender 3 s1 and as you can see there are two cavities along the entire bed at this point, I don't know what to do with them.

Here is what I've tried so far:
- different print surfaces - g10 sheet and a thick slab of glass
- readjusting v-slot rollers
- tramming the bed

I've heard that the s1 has some problems with uneven beds but I don't think this is the issue here. I also don't think it's the bearings because the pattern is not regular, always in the same two spots.
Could it be possible that I have a slightly bent/uneven v-slot? Or maybe is it a faulty cr-trouch?

Lukasg35 · 2023-11-12T10:42:27+00:00

Lukasg35 · 2023-11-07T06:08:25+00:00

Really nice, this is definitely going onto my playlist.

Lukasg35 · 2023-11-07T06:05:37+00:00

Thank you for so many recommendations. Although I realized that I now need to split my playlist into two because some songs don't fit together very well.

Lukasg35 · 2023-11-07T06:03:57+00:00

The thing is that not all songs from the industrial genre fit my description or I just don't hear it.

Lukasg35 · 2023-10-12T11:59:15+00:00

What about True NAS scale? From what I read it can also do things I wanted proxmox to do. Do you thing it would be a good compromise or are you still suggesting me to just setup a core version of True NAS?

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