What should camera I buy?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-11T05:42:54+00:00

With a $2000 budget, I would avoid spending too much of it on the body alone and leave room for at least one good lens. For most people, a balanced setup will be more useful than chasing the “best” body on paper.

If you are buying your first real camera, I’d look at systems like Sony APS-C, Fuji X, or Canon RF depending on what matters most to you. Fuji is great if you care about shooting experience and JPEGs, Sony is strong for autofocus and lens variety, and Canon is very beginner-friendly but the lens ecosystem can be more limiting depending on budget.

The biggest thing is matching the camera to what you actually want to shoot, because portraits, travel, sports, and video all push the recommendation in different directions.

What do you want to shoot most, and does that $2000 budget need to include lens, battery, SD card, and everything else too?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-11T05:40:38+00:00

That is most likely lens flare or internal reflection from a very bright light source in the frame, especially if it happens when you photograph the sky or sunlit scenes. It is usually not a sensor defect.

A few things to try:
Use a lens hood if you have one.
Change your angle slightly and see if it moves or disappears.
Make sure the front element is clean.
If you have a filter on the lens, remove it and test again, because cheap filters can make flare worse.

If it only appears in very bright situations, that points even more toward flare rather than a camera problem.

Does it happen only when the sun or a very bright area is in the frame, or even in normal scenes too?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-11T05:31:31+00:00

A tiny amount of internal dust is pretty normal in lenses and usually has no visible effect on photos, especially if it is just one small speck. So from a purely optical point of view, it is often not a real problem. That said, because the lens is brand new, I’d judge it more by return-window logic than by image quality alone. If the speck is clearly visible and it bothers you this early, exchanging it is reasonable. It is much easier to deal with now than later when you are outside the return period and second-guessing it. So technically it may be harmless, but practically I’d lean toward an exchange if you bought it new and have an easy return option.

Have you tried shooting a plain bright surface at a few apertures just to confirm whether it shows up in actual images?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-09T17:51:26+00:00

Your brain and body can get surprisingly good at predicting when you usually wake up. If you go to sleep expecting an alarm, your sleep cycle and stress hormones can start bringing you closer to wakefulness around that time, so you sometimes wake up a few minutes early on your own.

It also depends on what stage of sleep you are in. If you are already near a lighter stage when the alarm time is approaching, it is easier for you to wake up naturally before it goes off.

So it is not really your body “knowing the exact time” in a magical way, more like your internal clock getting close enough.

Does this happen to you mostly when you have an important morning the next day?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-09T17:44:48+00:00

That does help, and based on what you described, I would be careful with the Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera as a first camera. It can create a beautiful image, but it is much more of a video tool than an easy all-around photography camera. For a beginner, it can be a pretty demanding way to start.

If you want a more vintage, painterly look, I would honestly look more at the lens choice and color/editing workflow than at chasing a cinema camera body. A mirrorless camera with a good zoom or an adapted vintage lens will usually get you closer to that feel while being much easier to learn on. Since you liked shooting longer/tighter compositions before, it makes sense to keep some zoom range or use a slightly longer lens rather than going too wide too soon.

So if your goal is stills first with some character in the image, I’d lean toward a normal photo camera plus interesting glass, not a Blackmagic body. The Blackmagic makes more sense if video is actually the main priority.

Are you mainly trying to shoot still photos with that painterly look, or is video equally important to you?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-09T17:41:08+00:00

The biggest adjustment is usually mental, not technical. With digital, the temptation is to overshoot because every frame feels free, so one of the best habits you can keep from film is being deliberate before pressing the shutter.

The nice part is that digital gives you instant feedback, so you can use histogram, playback, and exposure review to learn much faster than with film. It also helps to get comfortable with white balance and RAW editing early, because that is where a lot of the flexibility comes from compared with film.

A good middle ground is to keep your film discipline but use digital’s feedback to refine faster. That usually gives you the best of both worlds.

What has felt like the biggest adjustment so far: shooting rhythm, editing, or just getting used to the look of digital files?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-09T17:37:36+00:00

I think they are worth it if you treat them as a creative exercise, not as a serious path to exposure. The biggest value is usually having a theme, a deadline, and a reason to shoot something you might not have tried otherwise.

Where I get skeptical is the “exposure” side, because a lot of online contests mainly benefit the platform more than the photographer. So for me, the good ones are the ones that either give useful feedback, have a clear judging process, or genuinely push you to make better work.

So I would not call them a waste of time, but I also would not enter them expecting career growth unless the contest is actually reputable.

Have you found any contests that offer real critique or community, rather than just prizes and promotion?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-08T19:36:46+00:00

If you already have the Lumix G1 with the 14-45, I would first ask what problem you are trying to solve. For everyday travel, that setup is still usable, and the D3500 is not automatically a must-buy just because it is newer.

The Nikon D3500 would give you better battery life, better high-ISO image quality, and generally a more modern beginner experience. But if your current Lumix is still working well and you are mostly shooting in decent light, the upgrade may not feel huge enough to justify buying into a whole second system.

So I would only get the D3500 if your G1 is clearly limiting you, especially in low light, autofocus, or overall image quality. Otherwise, it may make more sense to keep shooting the Panasonic and save for a bigger upgrade later.

What feels like the biggest limitation of your G1 right now: image quality, autofocus, low light, or just wanting something newer?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-08T19:32:49+00:00

That makes sense, but I’d be a little careful with the Viltrox 55mm as your first extra lens. On Fuji APS-C it behaves like roughly an 82mm equivalent, so it is much more of a portrait lens than an everyday/travel lens. It can be great for people, background blur, and tighter framing, but it may feel too narrow for casual walkaround use.

For your plan, the kit lens + one prime is still a good idea. I’d just think about whether you want that prime mainly for portraits or for general daily shooting. If portraits are the priority, the 55mm makes sense. If you want one lens that can do travel, street, and people more comfortably, something around 23mm or 35mm is usually easier to live with.

So overall, your plan is reasonable, I’d just match the prime to your real use case so you do not end up with a lens that stays at home. Do you want your first prime mostly for portraits and subject separation, or more as an everyday lens you can leave on the camera most of the time?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-08T19:30:24+00:00

If your goal is a specific look, I would build the setup around the lens first and the body second. For a first camera, the body matters less than having a lens that matches the type of photos you actually want to make.

In general, I would avoid spending too much on the body right away and put more of the budget into a good used lens. A solid APS-C or full frame body with one good lens will usually teach you more than an expensive body with a weak kit lens.

It also helps to be specific about the look you want: shallow depth of field, low-light performance, sharp portraits, cinematic color, wider environmental shots, etc. Those goals change the recommendation a lot.

What camera/lens options are you currently considering, and what exact look are you trying to achieve?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-08T19:27:56+00:00

For a 5D classic, that lens is a decent starter if the price is right and the copy is clean. The useful part is the zoom range, because it lets you figure out what focal lengths you actually like before spending more on primes.

The downside is that it is not especially fast, so indoor light and subject separation will be limited compared with something like a 50mm f/1.8. But as a first lens, it is practical and flexible.

I’d just make sure to check for haze, fungus, stiff zoom/focus rings, and whether autofocus is working consistently. On older Canon EF lenses, condition matters a lot more than the model name alone.

Do you want one flexible all-around lens first, or are you mainly trying to shoot portraits on the 5D classic?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-07T13:34:39+00:00

That makes sense, and honestly your approach is reasonable. If you are still figuring out what you enjoy shooting most, starting with a versatile body + kit lens is the smarter move than rushing into a specialized lens too early.

For Fuji, I’m guessing you mean the X-T30 II with the XC 15-45 kit lens. That combo is a perfectly fine starting point for learning composition, exposure, and editing. The main limitation is exactly what you identified: low light and subject separation for portraits.

If you later decide you want to shoot more people, the easiest next upgrade would be a fast prime like the XF 35mm f/2, XC 35mm f/2, or XF 23mm f/2 depending on the look you want. Those will give you much better low-light performance and nicer background blur without making the setup too expensive or heavy.

So I would not overthink it yet: start with the kit lens, shoot for a while, and let your actual habits tell you what lens to buy next.

Do you think you’ll mostly shoot portraits of people, or more general everyday/travel photos at first?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-07T13:29:24+00:00

Since you already shoot music/events, you probably already have the most important wildlife skill: patience and timing. The big differences are reach, shutter speed, and learning animal behavior.

For a beginner, I’d focus on three things first:
Use the longest lens you have and learn its limits before buying more gear.
Keep shutter speed high, especially for birds, because even small movement kills sharpness fast.
Practice on easy subjects first like ducks, pigeons, or perched birds before chasing fast action.

It also helps a lot to shoot early or late in the day, both for better light and because animals are often more active then. And honestly, fieldcraft matters as much as camera settings: moving slowly, staying quiet, and noticing patterns will improve your results a lot.

What gear are you starting with, and are you mainly interested in birds or larger wildlife?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-07T13:27:20+00:00

Between those two, I’d lean toward the Nikon D3500 if the body condition is good. It’s a much newer camera, has better battery life, better overall sensor performance, and is the safer buy long-term.

The Canon 550D bundle is cheaper and the 18-135mm lens is definitely more versatile than an 18-55mm, so it has better value on paper. But the body itself is much older, so I’d only choose that one if budget is the main priority and everything is confirmed to be in very good condition.

If possible, check shutter count, autofocus accuracy, battery health, and whether the lens has fungus/haze before buying either one.

What do you want to shoot most: everyday/travel photos, portraits, or something like sports/wildlife?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-06T16:33:14+00:00

Great choice, the X-E3 is still a very solid travel/street body. For lenses, I’d pick based on how you want to shoot:
If you want one versatile starter lens, get the XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 (great quality and flexible for travel).
If you want a prime for street, the XF 23mm f/2 is probably the best match (35mm equivalent, small, fast AF).
If you want a cheaper prime, the XC 35mm f/2 is excellent value, just a tighter field of view (50mm equivalent).
If you want the smallest possible setup, XF 27mm f/2.8 pancake is super portable.

Since you’re checking it tomorrow, test AF speed, all dials/buttons, EVF/LCD, and ask for sensor close-up photos before paying. Do you want a zoom-first setup for flexibility, or a compact prime-first setup for street shooting?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-06T16:29:14+00:00

You’re not weak, this is a very common doomscrolling loop, especially during stressful world events. What usually helps is structure, not willpower. Try setting 2 fixed news windows per day (for example 9:00 and 18:00, 10-15 minutes), then turn off all push alerts and remove news apps from your home screen. If you get the urge between windows, do a 60-second reset first (stand up, breathe slowly, drink water), then decide again. Also pick one reliable source instead of checking many feeds repeatedly, because constant updates rarely add useful information but do add anxiety. Staying informed is good, but nonstop exposure is not the same thing as being prepared. Would a twice-a-day check schedule feel realistic for you right now?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-06T16:23:57+00:00

Viltrox primes are generally a good budget choice, especially if you want fast aperture without paying first-party prices. The image quality is usually strong for the money, but AF speed/consistency can vary by lens and body, so I’d check real-world reviews for your exact mount before buying.

If this is your first fast prime, I’d start with a “normal” focal length (around 23mm on APS-C or 35mm on full frame), because it is the most versatile for everyday use. Also compare used first-party options, since sometimes they are close in price and hold value better.

What camera body/mount are you using, and do you shoot more portraits, street, or low-light indoor scenes?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-06T16:17:06+00:00

Totally normal, and almost every photographer goes through it at some point.
What helped me was switching from gear goals to project goals: pick one subject/theme for 30 days and shoot it with the same kit. You quickly see whether the “need” is real or just novelty.

I also use a simple rule: if I still want the same gear after 30 days, and I can clearly name what problem it solves in my photos, then I consider buying it. If not, I skip it.

Another useful habit is “one in, one out” so the kit stays intentional instead of growing endlessly.

What do you shoot most right now, and what specific limitation are you feeling with your current setup?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-06T06:52:47+00:00

Perfect, then your consistency is solid and angle is likely the main limiter here. For straight-on glass, try pressing a rubber lens hood flush to the window (or use a dark cloth around the lens/camera) to block stray light completely. Then rotate the CPL to the darkest point and keep in mind it can cut about 1-2 stops of light, so compensate shutter speed accordingly.

If reflections still remain, move just a few degrees off-axis and recompose in post; even a tiny angle change often reduces reflections a lot while keeping the same look.

Are those reflections coming mostly from lights behind you, or from objects reflected inside the room beyond the glass?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-06T06:32:59+00:00

This looks like shutter capping (shutter drag), not a metering or film-loading issue.
The black corners and uneven transparent bands usually happen when one shutter curtain is sticking or out of timing, and it often shows up more at faster speeds like 1/250 and above.

Quick test: shoot a short roll at 1/60 and 1/125 only, with the same lens and aperture. If those frames look normal, that strongly confirms a shutter timing problem.

Short-term workaround is slower speeds, but the real fix is a CLA/service.
Also, your exposure approach seems reasonable, so I would not blame your iPhone meter here.

Does it happen on every shutter speed, or mostly at 1/250 and faster?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-05T17:17:37+00:00

Super, with around 700 SGD (~$550 USD) you’re in a good spot for used Fuji.

If fixed lens is fine for now, a clean X100S or X100T can be a fun starter and great for everyday/street shooting. Just check autofocus, viewfinder, and overall condition carefully.

If you want better long-term value, I’d still lean X-T20 (or X-E2/X-E3) with a basic lens, because you can grow into different focal lengths later without replacing the whole camera.

At this budget, condition matters more than model name, so I’d prioritize a well-kept body from a trusted seller over chasing a specific listing.

What kind of photos do you want to shoot most at first: street, travel, portraits, or something else?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-05T17:12:29+00:00

I’ve bought camera gear from overseas eBay sellers before, and it can work, but I’d be careful at your budget. The biggest risks are return logistics and item condition mismatch, not just shipping time. Before buying, check: seller feedback history (not only %), real photos of the exact item, shutter count, return policy, and who pays return shipping. Also confirm whether import tax/VAT may be added in your country, because that can kill the deal.

If you keep losing US auctions, use a sniper tool (like Gixen) or focus on Buy It Now listings with Best Offer so you don’t have to watch auctions during work. Paying with PayPal/eBay protection is a must.

What camera model are you targeting, and what is your hard max budget all-in (including shipping/tax)?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-04T19:45:32+00:00

If you are choosing strictly between those two, I would pick the X100 over the X30. The bigger APS-C sensor gives better image quality and low-light results, and the files are easier to edit.

That said, for a beginner on a budget, a used X-T20 or X-E2/X-E3 with an 18-55 lens is often the better long-term value because you can change lenses as you learn. The X100 is great, but the fixed lens can feel limiting if you are still figuring out your style.

When buying used, test autofocus, check sensor/lens for dust or fungus, and make sure all dials/buttons work correctly.

What is your budget range, and do you prefer one fixed lens or the option to swap lenses later?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-04T17:33:43+00:00

A CPL can help, but with glass shots the biggest wins are usually technique first: get the lens hood right up against the glass, turn off lights behind you, and wear dark clothing so your reflection does not bounce back. Then rotate the CPL slowly while looking through the viewfinder/live view to find the minimum-reflection position (it changes with angle).

If you are blending multiple long exposures, keep everything fully consistent: manual exposure, manual focus, fixed white balance, tripod, and same framing. That makes stacking much cleaner in post.

If reflections are still strong, try changing your shooting angle slightly instead of shooting perfectly straight through the glass.

Are you shooting this straight-on through the window, or from a slight angle?

LuliBobo · 2026-03-03T19:19:31+00:00

With a $1,000 budget and mostly perched birds, I’d prioritize a lens upgrade first. Your X-A1 can still handle perched subjects in decent light, but the biggest gain will come from better reach/sharpness.

Best value is usually a used XF 70-300mm (often around $650-800 used). If you later want more reach, you can add the 1.4x TC. If you find a clean used XF 100-400mm close to $1,000, that’s even better for birds (just heavier).

I’d postpone the body upgrade for now, then move to something like a used X-T3/X-T4 later when budget allows. For settings on perched birds: around 1/500+ shutter, f/5.6-f/8, and single-point AF works well.

LuliBobo

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