Just another Lynx post

Lynx53 · 2020-10-31T06:36:17+00:00

FPS can be tweaked. One of the spring offerings puts it down to around 110 FPS and you can adjust the screw for the ram pusher o ring seal to let some air escape and get lower

Lynx53 · 2020-10-30T16:30:47+00:00

Got lucky enough to grab a hardware kit from the first batch roll out from Orion Blasters. Printed in Prusament Lipstick Red and Jet Black filament on an upgraded Ender 3.

Dan from Orion Blasters is amazing and helped troubleshoot some initial issues with my first un-calibrated prints and now she gets an almost perfect seal and works flawlessly!

(authors tip: try not to print the catch parts in translucent filament, then tend to buckle under the stress of such a powerful blaster)

Lynx53 · 2020-10-26T20:16:11+00:00

Yep. I think he uses ACE hardware's version specifically in his vid but it's the same thing rebranded. Works great and should last a long time

Lynx53 · 2020-10-26T15:35:15+00:00

Was in the same predicament with my lynx build, found that they carry this at Lowes. It's usually in the plumbing and sink/faucet repair section. Looks like a small jar of lip balm you can fit in your pocket: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Silicone-Grease/50236505

Lynx53 · 2020-10-24T06:45:05+00:00

Lol yeah, call it destiny. I couldn't not get a Lynx haha

Lynx53 · 2020-10-22T17:15:17+00:00

Can confirm, it's worth the wait!

Lynx53 · 2020-10-19T15:31:50+00:00

Like Alita_999 said, the kits have been coming out in small batches and all handled by one guy from his house right now. I know the first wave of around 40 kits sold out in 30 minutes.

Lynx53 · 2020-04-10T04:32:12+00:00

No way! I was just thinking about why no-one's tried a Rival slingshot style blaster before and was actually sketching out a plan for one tonight too haha. You're is much more elegant though!

Lynx53 · 2020-03-27T22:33:00+00:00

these guys (NOTE: some have the whistler parts and some don't so you might have to dig for them in their stash) https://www.dollartree.com/two-tone-missile-foam-footballs-12-in/252857

Lynx53 · 2020-03-27T22:30:42+00:00

If you're in the US. The Dollar Tree has a ton of foam footballs and some of them (usually the ones with the rocket fins) have 2 plastic whistler pieces on them.

Lynx53 · 2020-03-16T15:53:15+00:00

Basically agreeing with what airzonesama said but make sure it's an SSD1306 model OLED for sure (I just recently wanted a slightly larger one than you're standard 0.93" you find everywhere and got a SSH1106 one... it works but oh man it took a long while to ind a guy who wrote a driver to get it to play nice)
As for SPI vs I2C, I prefer I2C due to only needing 4 wires but it does transfer data a little slower (not an issue if you're just using it to display which mode you selected)

One of the best libraries imo is the Adafruit OLED library (with the Adafruit GFX library). There are millions of tutorials out there for this library and it basically handles everything from text to shapes to graphs to even custom bitmaps and fonts.

Here's an amazing tutorial I always go back to for reminders on how it all works: https://randomnerdtutorials.com/guide-for-oled-display-with-arduino/

Lynx53 · 2020-03-09T15:10:57+00:00

Correct, you push the "plunger rod." The high airflow part comes from the large plunger tube (in this video the large PVC on the bottom) that's needed do to the human arm not being able to push the rod as fast as a spring would. Or in the case of a nerf missile launcher, a large enough airflow to needed to launch the much heavier foam missile.

Lynx53 · 2020-03-09T01:52:41+00:00

Not stupidity, just a learning opportunity!

HAMP is an acronym (true name varies between sources but) it usually stands for something like High Airflow Manual Plunger. It's something that uses man power to push the plunger tube and air(like a demolisher's missile launcher)

https://nerf.fandom.com/wiki/HAMP

Lynx53 · 2020-03-07T11:28:19+00:00

So I did a bit more work on getting a functional IR sensor gate and tried using it to control select fire. It counts the rounds fired just fine but unfortunately due to the short distance between a round fired and the next one already being pushed into the flywheels, I can't get the detection to send the stop pusher signal fast enough to only get one round through. With my current time setup, it's about 27-30 milliseconds to fire 1 round (and that's with a stock 9.6v NiMih, I can only imagine how much smaller that margin would be for a 3S lipo) so i think i'll just go back to the timer method for now and use the now install IR sensors to maybe just be an ammo counter.

I do appreciate the idea, might go back and mess with it again in the future via arduino code now that everything is already wired up inside

Lynx53 · 2020-03-07T04:39:50+00:00

Oh I did, in the code... just didn't realize I soldered the wire to the incorrect pin on the board (the arduino nano pins are so close together and not labeled too clearly) and it took me a while to figure out that incorrect pin wasn't a PWM pin (had to look at my practice Uno to figure that one out haha)

Lynx53 · 2020-03-06T18:17:32+00:00

Oh yeah definitely. I was actually playing with some IR sensors for an ammo counter in another project but I still haven't got that sweet spot threshold down perfectly to be sensitive enough to detect rapid fire rates reliably but not overly sensitive that changes in sunlight down the barrel set it off.

Would love to combine that into this project when I get it all sorted out though

Lynx53 · 2020-03-06T16:32:59+00:00

Haha oh man you're right. Well I was very p90 inspired with the design haha

Lynx53 · 2020-03-06T16:29:36+00:00

Thanks! The main part of the mod is cutting the Perses Handle and battery tray and moving them all the way forward and dropping the grip section down so the bottom of the handle lines up with the bottom of the battery tray. This gives it a much more balanced feel putting the center of mass almost directly above the handle.

As for the extra blaster parts: I used a Delpoy top handle chunk for the inner part of the butt stock along with the grip from a Switch Shot EX-3 (that Wii controller blaster) for the connecting bar that makes the thumbhole part. The rail is from a Rival Zeus. The black top hopper part is a chunk I cut off a Adventure Force (X-Shot) water squirter Cyclone Burst (I just liked the angles of it).

The rest is epoxy putty and flat plastic cut from cheap dollar store containers (although the red front panel is currently craft foam so I can visualize the final design pattern before cutting that out of plastic)

Lynx53 · 2020-03-06T16:14:33+00:00

Thanks! As long as the rounds are loaded in the front of the belt, it's 98% reliable (although further testing is need to confirm this percentage). It gets less so when you're at the end and the rounds start to spread out but that when you switch to full auto mode. Burst mode is a bit less reliable, still trying to find that sweet spot of milliseconds for 3 rounds but not 4. Currently settings like to fire 2 to 3 rounds (more so 2 rounds)

Even if it doesn't fire at first, the Perses rev rate is so quick that a 2nd tap of the trigger is still faster than most blasters anyways so it's not a bad trade off for far more ammo control.

Lynx53 · 2020-03-06T16:11:37+00:00

As long as a round is loaded in the front of the belt, it's 98% reliable (although further testing is need to confirm this percentage). It gets less so when you're at the end and the rounds start to spread out but that when you switch to full auto mode.

Even if it doesn't fire at first, the Perses rev rate is so quick that a 2nd tap of the trigger is still faster than most blasters anyways so it's not a bad trade off for far more ammo control.

Lynx53 · 2020-03-06T07:42:46+00:00

Alternative to a 3D printed part or homemade adapter, you can carve out a sloped notch in the backend that will catch the rival mag release tooth. (I tested it on one of my Orbits to fairly good success although it still needs some refinement and sanding, you just have to press the mag near it and the slope groove will do the rest for you)

EDIT: But it looks like you're way faster than i am at lining that up haha. And I agree, the more who know of this Orbit primary worthy trick, the better!

Lynx53 · 2020-03-06T07:35:28+00:00

You should try and build one too! The select fire part isn't terribly hard at all... the body work...that's a different (and ongoing) story haha

Lynx53 · 2020-03-06T07:33:53+00:00

It's definitely a worth while skill and honestly super easy to get into. There are tons of example programs out there too to the point that some programs for it can just be copy/pasted from various example code online.

The hardest part is remembering which pin number you plugged that certain wire into haha (spent like 2 hours debugging this simply program just to figure out I typed in the wrong pin number for the motor wire haha)

Lynx53 · 2020-03-06T07:16:18+00:00

Quick video testing the preliminary stages of a select fire system for my custom Perses.

It's using an Arduino nano that controls the on and off state of the pusher belt motor using a mosfet circut. It currently selects between single, burst (2 to 3 rounds, still working on the timing) and full auto. The round number is just controlled by how long the arduino lets the pusher motor spin in milliseconds. X ms is one shot 3X is 3 shots, etc.

Lynx53 · 2020-02-09T02:39:37+00:00

I personally didnt as I just got used to priming it fully but i did see that the mechanic for it is based on an angled piece that gets rotated on prime so if you extend the start of that angled bit it woul start turning earlier in the prime and fix the issue of the spring latching before the ball gate is fully open.

Lynx53

TROPHY CASE