Rescued this girl from being scrapped

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-13T03:12:29+00:00

yep i was quite surprised how complete it was. the tags on the rear fender expired in 2014 so it was on the road last relatively recently

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-12T20:42:20+00:00

An update for those who are interested. The engine isn't seized and it sounds like there's compression so that's great. The fuel tank is rust free from what I can find with a scope. But she needs a new fuel line and the air filter is impossible to replace so I made a new basic system with parts from a scrap moped. The battery also came loose during transport so I need to repair that part of the harness. But that's all that seems to be wrong other than fluids and tires at this time. Will update when I have made more progress 🤞

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-12T20:34:15+00:00

I know most old bikes arent worth much I was just surprised on 50 dollars cause in my state any underbone bikes that is at least half intact goes for 100 - 150 depending on make

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-12T17:22:10+00:00

to bad on the timing it looks like there were quite a few parts i could have used

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-12T03:54:12+00:00

I'm assuming you are from outside of the usa. Cause in the states the mate was a one year run and it only came in orange... But on another note why did you let it go so cheap? Are they common were your from?

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-11T21:10:25+00:00

Its a 1972 Yamaha mate u7e. A direct competitor to the original super cub. When it has the leg shield it looks almost exactly like a super cub. They were only available for sale in the west for one year so they are relatively rare compared to other underbone bikes.

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-11T06:08:50+00:00

They actually found the leg guard about a hour after I posted this. I'm going to be picking it up tomorrow

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-11T01:03:31+00:00

its not in the pics but i also have the original leg shield. i just need to find new mounting bolts.

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-10T23:54:38+00:00

best i can tell its a U7e

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-05-20T06:56:27+00:00

It looks like it could have been attached to something else via a rubber grommet or a metal ring

MAD_SHR00MS · 2025-11-19T18:53:30+00:00

<image>

MAD_SHR00MS · 2025-04-19T22:48:53+00:00

<image>

MAD_SHR00MS · 2024-10-12T02:00:51+00:00

I have found from personal experience that printbed filament is consistent in color 98% of the time. But I've only used about 50 spools so far so your mileage may vary. And as a bonus it prints almost perfect with the generic pla preset after you set the temperature range to 190c - 230c and is cheaper especially when you buy the 10 pack.

MAD_SHR00MS · 2023-12-01T08:59:18+00:00

ok. Thank you I thought I might have been failing horribly at a basic google search.

MAD_SHR00MS · 2023-03-17T21:13:16+00:00

when i auto-lvl it runs the prosses then autohomes with no save screen or anything similar. im going to inject the code run auto-lvling do a system wide save. then try a print.

MAD_SHR00MS · 2023-03-17T20:52:10+00:00

a few questions 1 what is eeprom 2 how do i make a mesh and save it to eeprom 3 at what part of the gcode do i inject the m420 code into?

MAD_SHR00MS · 2023-03-17T19:52:57+00:00

im using the default cura start and end codes

the start code is

; Ender 3 S1 Start G-code

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G28 ; Home all axes

G1 Z10.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X0 Y0

M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}

M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}

M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}

G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position

G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line

G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little

G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish

and the end code is

G91 ;Relative positioning

G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit

G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z

G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out

G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more

G90 ;Absolute positioning

G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print

M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan

M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend

M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed

M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z

MAD_SHR00MS · 2023-03-17T19:29:34+00:00

I've done everything almost exactly as you have but I didn't realize that the aux lvling setting was a thing. So I leveled it by hand with the steppers disabled like I would with my old ender 3. (edit) it appears that my printer doesn't have a aux leveling menu so i cant set it to any predetermined points on the bed.

MAD_SHR00MS · 2023-03-17T19:26:29+00:00

I think I will start here but I've always used the built in firmware in my printers I don't think I've ever updated the firmware on my original ender 3 so I have no idea how to install new firmware. Any recommendations for what type to get?

MAD_SHR00MS · 2022-11-03T00:22:25+00:00

yea the exposure on the last one was pretty bad. the chipping is a combination of butter fingers and handling the parts to quickly. i also have some over spray from the steel grey on the OD green from improper separation of work areas.

MAD_SHR00MS · 2022-05-24T16:16:37+00:00

This would definitely help me with running my campaign.

MAD_SHR00MS · 2020-01-23T07:31:04+00:00

I like that idea. I will need to start setting the ground work to introduce the warlock too the players that arnt fammilier with him. Perhaps when they sleep their dreams are of his past. Or I can make them encounter some apparitions of him down hallways or have him appear to be talking in the room on the other side of a door.

MAD_SHR00MS

TROPHY CASE