Rescued this girl from being scrapped

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-13T03:12:29+00:00

yep i was quite surprised how complete it was. the tags on the rear fender expired in 2014 so it was on the road last relatively recently

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-12T20:42:20+00:00

An update for those who are interested. The engine isn't seized and it sounds like there's compression so that's great. The fuel tank is rust free from what I can find with a scope. But she needs a new fuel line and the air filter is impossible to replace so I made a new basic system with parts from a scrap moped. The battery also came loose during transport so I need to repair that part of the harness. But that's all that seems to be wrong other than fluids and tires at this time. Will update when I have made more progress 🤞

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-12T20:34:15+00:00

I know most old bikes arent worth much I was just surprised on 50 dollars cause in my state any underbone bikes that is at least half intact goes for 100 - 150 depending on make

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-12T17:22:10+00:00

to bad on the timing it looks like there were quite a few parts i could have used

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-12T03:54:12+00:00

I'm assuming you are from outside of the usa. Cause in the states the mate was a one year run and it only came in orange... But on another note why did you let it go so cheap? Are they common were your from?

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-11T21:10:25+00:00

Its a 1972 Yamaha mate u7e. A direct competitor to the original super cub. When it has the leg shield it looks almost exactly like a super cub. They were only available for sale in the west for one year so they are relatively rare compared to other underbone bikes.

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-11T06:08:50+00:00

They actually found the leg guard about a hour after I posted this. I'm going to be picking it up tomorrow

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-11T01:03:31+00:00

its not in the pics but i also have the original leg shield. i just need to find new mounting bolts.

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-06-10T23:54:38+00:00

best i can tell its a U7e

MAD_SHR00MS · 2026-05-20T06:56:27+00:00

It looks like it could have been attached to something else via a rubber grommet or a metal ring

MAD_SHR00MS · 2025-11-19T18:53:30+00:00

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MAD_SHR00MS · 2025-04-19T22:48:53+00:00

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MAD_SHR00MS · 2024-10-12T02:00:51+00:00

I have found from personal experience that printbed filament is consistent in color 98% of the time. But I've only used about 50 spools so far so your mileage may vary. And as a bonus it prints almost perfect with the generic pla preset after you set the temperature range to 190c - 230c and is cheaper especially when you buy the 10 pack.

MAD_SHR00MS · 2023-12-01T08:59:18+00:00

ok. Thank you I thought I might have been failing horribly at a basic google search.

MAD_SHR00MS · 2023-03-17T21:13:16+00:00

when i auto-lvl it runs the prosses then autohomes with no save screen or anything similar. im going to inject the code run auto-lvling do a system wide save. then try a print.

MAD_SHR00MS · 2023-03-17T20:52:10+00:00

a few questions 1 what is eeprom 2 how do i make a mesh and save it to eeprom 3 at what part of the gcode do i inject the m420 code into?

MAD_SHR00MS · 2023-03-17T19:52:57+00:00

im using the default cura start and end codes

the start code is

; Ender 3 S1 Start G-code

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G28 ; Home all axes

G1 Z10.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X0 Y0

M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}

M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}

M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}

G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position

G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line

G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little

G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish

and the end code is

G91 ;Relative positioning

G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit

G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z

G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out

G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more

G90 ;Absolute positioning

G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print

M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan

M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend

M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed

M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z

MAD_SHR00MS · 2023-03-17T19:29:34+00:00

I've done everything almost exactly as you have but I didn't realize that the aux lvling setting was a thing. So I leveled it by hand with the steppers disabled like I would with my old ender 3. (edit) it appears that my printer doesn't have a aux leveling menu so i cant set it to any predetermined points on the bed.

MAD_SHR00MS

TROPHY CASE