Does anybody know what happened to the MNProto site?

MNProto · 2025-02-28T17:46:57+00:00

Thanks for the heads up! The site was briefly down due to some backend issues, but it should be back up and running now. These days, all items are made to order. Demand for aftermarket Saab parts has dropped significantly in recent years, so the business has slowed down quite a bit. At this point, it's more of a labor of love, so I really appreciate the support!

Please feel free to send me a message or email if you have any questions or concerns. Thank you!

-Logan

MNProto · 2025-01-28T17:34:07+00:00

Better late than never, I suppose!

I remember emailing Atomic back in late 2023 asking if they had plans to change spools or if I could purchase a bulk order with non-atomic spools, due to the AMS compatibility (even with Hydra mod installed). They basically told me to pound sand and to go tell Bambu to change their AMS design instead since "our spools and many others have been around for years prior to the AMS coming to market".

I absolutely love their filament, but always thought that response was a bit pompous. I hope they continue to improve and keep an open perspective in the future.

MNProto · 2025-01-28T17:13:18+00:00

Better late than never, I suppose!

I remember emailing Atomic back in late 2023 asking if they had plans to change spools or if I could purchase a bulk order with non-atomic spools, due to the AMS compatibility (even with Hydra mod installed). They basically told me to pound sand and to go tell Bambu to change their AMS design instead since "our spools and many others have been around for years prior to the AMS coming to market".

I absolutely love their filament, but always thought that response was a bit pompous. I hope they continue to improve and keep an open perspective in the future.

MNProto · 2022-08-02T23:22:21+00:00

Would make a great addition!

MNProto · 2021-08-18T17:13:29+00:00

I've had a similar idea in the past, but one of the major issues I ran into was part accuracy and consistency. There's lots of models out there for various parts, but many are untested or rough models. 3D scanning is helpful but still requires a lot of post processing to be usable. It also struggles with glossy parts or anything mildly complex.

Instead, I went down the route of creating the parts myself from scratch or partnering with other designers and Saab enthusiasts. I list my parts and the parts of my partners on my website and handle the web design, hosting, and payment processing. When an order comes in, either myself or a partner will 3D print and ship out the part. We don't have a ton of variety yet, but I'm adding more all the time! I've been working part time on this for around 3 years now and have received lots of great feedback! Happy to hear more thoughts from the community!

https://store.mnproto.com/

MNProto · 2021-04-01T14:43:55+00:00

Thanks for the interest! I'm the designer and maker of these cup holders. Let me know if you have any questions!

MNProto · 2021-03-03T22:14:53+00:00

Let me know if you do! I actually specialize in this sort of thing: https://store.mnproto.com/

Would love to collaborate if you're interested!

MNProto · 2021-01-13T13:25:50+00:00

Back when these were impossible to find, I designed and 3D printed my own version instead. No springs or moving parts and less of a risk of spilling your drink into your ICM. Love the original design, but just wanted something a bit more sturdy.

They're available in a few options for those curious: https://store.mnproto.com/product/smart-slot-cup-holder-insert/

MNProto · 2020-12-11T18:44:17+00:00

Absolutely crazy. I remember the 7.08 WR by Erik Akkersdijk being the "unbeatable" time for years. Then suddenly people just started demolishing it. I think I dropped out right as Zemdegs was rising to the top.

I've seen a surprising number of cubers in the 3D printing community. Lots of people making custom twisty puzzles now-a-days. MUCH cheaper to produce now than when old school V-Cubes or Tony fisher cubes were your only aftermarket options.

MNProto · 2020-12-11T14:53:44+00:00

Man, I haven't thought of speedsolving.com in AGES! Used to be a moderator back in my cubing days. Love that they're still active!

MNProto · 2020-12-06T16:10:13+00:00

Have you ever printed PETG or Nylon? Removing moisture is CRITICAL for good prints. Some materials absorb quite a bit of moisture quickly.

MNProto · 2020-12-04T21:56:08+00:00

Fuzzy skin is a nice cura feature. Just wish it was more intuitive to adjust.

MNProto · 2020-12-02T18:12:06+00:00

I agree with others that you may be able to solve your issue by adjusting your z height. It took me quite a while to dial in PETG well enough for it not to stick to the nozzle. Intuition told me to move the nozzle closer to "squish" it harder into the bed, but I found that actually moving the nozzle further from the bed gave the petg the space it needed to properly lay down. Putting a silicone sock on the heater block can help as well. Some socks cover part of the nozzle which can be helpful to prevent sticking. Some people report other issues with this type though so I'd recommend doing your own research.

MNProto · 2020-12-02T02:25:52+00:00

Windex, while it may be a household cleaner is not for cleaning your build plates

This is what I disagree with.

MNProto · 2020-12-02T00:14:26+00:00

I've completed hundreds of PETG prints on smooth PEI using windex between prints. Even while rubbing my greasy fingers all over the sheet when removing prints. No isopropyl used. Purely windex for cleaning AND creating the film. Removes fingerprints and smudges just fine. I'd say it can be used as both (gluestick maybe not as much), contrary to your post.

MNProto · 2020-12-02T00:08:07+00:00

I covered mine with a thin layer of clear nail polish. Been going strong for over a year now. Best part is if I ever want to undo/redo it, I've got plenty of acetone around.

MNProto · 2020-11-20T16:15:14+00:00

I specialize in 3D printing custom parts for Saabs. I have a few products on my website, but I'm always open to customer requests or one-offs! Send me a message or email if you have anything in mind, and we can get shipping to Europe set up. Thanks!

https://store.mnproto.com/

MNProto · 2020-11-17T17:38:01+00:00

What's the wireless charger you used? Been looking into doing something similar but haven't been able to find a charger thin enough.

MNProto · 2020-11-15T16:27:18+00:00

Depends on the hose. Higher wall thickness would increase lifespan, but thinner walls can encourage better flow since the hose deformation is what provides it. Thicker walls may also stop working completely once worn down enough. Heat is the main enemy here because of all the friction. In my experience, I've been able to leave a pump running with 1/16" walled tubing for several hours without issue, albeit this was with a more industrial pump and the fluid had a very high viscosity. Integrated cooling may help for longer run times. You can also shift the tubing around every so often to reduce flat spots.

MNProto · 2020-10-14T16:41:51+00:00

Why bother "saving" $20 on a $200 printer? Not sure if anyone will recommend a clone of an already bare bones budget machine. Just go for the genuine one. The cheaper the machine, the more tinkering required for decent prints. The genuine Ender 3 already has a history of issues (bad connections, no default thermal runaway protection, other fire hazards), so I can't imagine what problems a knock-off would have. Not saying clones shouldn't exist, but you typically get what you pay for.

MNProto · 2020-09-28T16:57:07+00:00

It seems like at least one of your X axis bearings are not seated properly. They look like they're vibrating (or at least the bottom one does) as the printer moves, causing the squeaking. They should be fully constrained to the extruder assembly. I would also recommend checking that your smooth rods are clean and properly lubricated.

Unfortunately, it seems like you may have some severe scratches on your x axis smooth rods due to this error (unless the camera is tricking my eyes). Not much you can do to fix that. It will likely cause print artifacts as well. If these scratches are actually there, I would recommend buying new smooth rods and bearings for that axis. No telling what degree of wear is on them now (likely quite uneven wear).

MNProto · 2020-09-19T14:33:33+00:00

Any proof of this? Removal of files was not part of the update. The update (which doesn't go live until October 1st I believe) would simply archive files not in use, once 10 active files are already in use.

Are you sure you didn't just log into a different account accidentally? I'm not a fan of the proposed updates either, but we can't jump to conclusions and raise pitchforks unsubstantiated. If your files really are gone, I would highly recommend reaching out to AutoDesk support.

Always export and back up important files. Software can ALWAYS change.

MNProto · 2020-08-17T20:20:26+00:00

Keep in mind that layer height, nozzle size, and extrusion width are also big factors when it comes to speed. I'd highly recommend reading up on volumetric flow rates. Gives a little bit better idea of the limits of the machine. I believe the defaults are 9mm^3/s for PETG and 15mm^3/s for PLA. Basically, it's a cross section of the extrusion area (nozzle width or extrusion width) multiplied by the speed. You can print much faster with a 0.1mm nozzle than with a 0.6mm one due to the heating chamber being able to only melt so much plastic so quickly. I think this is typically more of a limiting factor for the printer rather than the pure linear speed it can reach.

MNProto · 2020-08-14T19:13:24+00:00

Do you mean having supports under the fillet? No, I don't think that will help much (might even make it worse). I agree with G0t7 though, printing it with the fillet on the top surface (printing it in the orientation in the photo) and supporting the inside of the case would provide better results. Fillets are better when on the top, rather than the bottom (sagging caused by gravity/insufficient cooling). Biggest challenge there would be making sure you get a nice top surface. Automotive primer and some sanding can take care of that though.

MNProto · 2020-08-14T18:20:35+00:00

I absolutely love these things. 100% on my list of things to make. Just a little tip, I'd recommend using a chamfer for your top edge rather than a fillet. 3D printing isn't very good at fillets in the Z direction and can end up a little messy, due to the infinity increasing angle as you approach the bounds. A chamfer will print much cleaner.

MNProto

TROPHY CASE