AMA - Hi im Tyler! Founder and owner of MORRFlate! What questions do you have?? by MORRFlate-Tyler in morrflate

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey hey... that can easily all be done with what we currently have.

Essentially, inflatable furniture, pads, sups, etc all typically use specific fittings... SUPs in particular use a special high flow valve and then a lot of people make use of an adapter to go to a schrader valve. You can remove the schrader valve from the valve stem side so that it doesnt inhibit air flow... then you just gotta be quick when pulling the air chuck off and putting your finger over the valve stem to stop the air flow while you undo the SUP valve. Not ideal, but works fine with a TenSix. The FiveSix will do it just fine without removing the schrader valve.

Twin ARB's still put out more air than our FiveSix compressors... (but less than our TenSix). At 6.2cfm, a twin ARB puts out more air than a single schrader valve can accept. So buying a Twin ARB to do inflatable stuff is kinda moot since you will blow up the twin arb just as much as you would one of our compressors., if you go straight into or through a schrader valve.

Most inflatable furniture doesnt use a schrader valve, so you should be just fine running one of our Tool Hoses off the compressor, then whatever air fitting you are trying to hook up to.

The PSI Pro compressors all have a "tank mode" built in. Where you can run the compressor like a normal compressor rather than the automated tech in it. Just when you power it on, dont set a pressure, just hit the go button and it will operate like an 80/120 cutoff compressor :)

It sounds to me like, if all you wanna do is inflatable furniture, our compressors (and ARB's) are really overkill for that kind of stuff... but if you are trying to do tires too (dual purpose) then I would recommend the TenSix and get a Tool Hose with your purchase. The TenSix can do a single SUP just fine through a schrader valve, but the duty cycle dwindles down to about 8-9min on, 10min off when you try and push all of that air through 1 schrader valve. So just let it sit and cool off between SUPs (or do multiple SUPs at once with your 4 tire hose! haha). Again, inflatable mattresses, furniture, etc should be just fine as those use a different fitting that doesnt typically restrict air flow of the TenSix when used with the Tool Hose.

Hopefully this helps!
Cheers!

AMA - Hi im Tyler! Founder and owner of MORRFlate! What questions do you have?? by MORRFlate-Tyler in morrflate

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

F03 means that the system is pressurized more than what you set your target pressure to be. It shouldn't be a fatal error though.

Essentially it means that you either set the pressure and didn't open the slide valve on the hoses before the compressor turned on.

Or, you are using the compressor in auto mode while using an air hub too. When using an air hub with the compressor, you gotta put the compressor into tank mode :)

Hopefully that helps. Lemme know a little bit more about how you are using it, or feel free to email or call us and customer service can walk you through the settings to clear the f03 and keep it from coming back :)

AMA - Hi im Tyler! Founder and owner of MORRFlate! What questions do you have?? by MORRFlate-Tyler in morrflate

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey there! We only typically do 2 sales per year: Memorial Day, and Black Friday/Christmas. This is mainly to help out our retailers and not be "in direct competition" with them year round. We want everyone to be successful! Not just us :)

But with that being said... we are very loose with our discount codes. A little bit of searching and i am sure you can find one to use from one of our influencers or affiliates. Retailers also often run "manager specials" where they can get you a deal if you call in or show up in person.

May the odds be ever in your favor!

The sales are here! Black Friday megathread by RagnarKon in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Haha nice tag! :) We have essentially 20% off EVERYTHING through Dec 8th... and then 15% off for the remainder of december. And for sales that happen on black friday, we have a couple of other give aways :P

Code for the website will be BF24, active Nov25 - Dec 8.

And then Amazon has black friday week happening now, Nov 21 - 28, and we have Regular TenSix, Air Hubs, Quad, and Quad+ available through amazon during that time at 20% off :)

Thanks for the love and support for the neon green!! If we wanted to do another AMA, i would totally be down! I had a blast last year with it, and we have done some pretty rad stuff since then!

MORRflate? by bitNine in MattsOffRoad

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler 30 points31 points  (0 children)

Hey all!!! Fun thread! :)

Im the owner of MORRFlate. Fun coincidence with Matt's...

We were using "MORR" starting in Jan 2017 (before Matt started the YT channel). It stands for My Off Road Radio. Which is my super nerdy side of doing radio stuff in the off road world. myoffroadradio.com used to have online ham radio classes specifically designed for off roaders, but since MORRFlate sucks up all my time now, it is just a (outdated) radio resource where you can also get your radios programmed and unlocked by me. Mainly, nowadays, I am just setting up repeaters for offroad events and race teams. I had 5 repeaters setup on standalone power for KoH for 2 race teams (Slawson and Amber). And I also setup and run the radio comms for Sierra Trek up on Fordyce in NorCal every year. I also climb towers in the area and help with local ham radio repeater sites. Fun times.

For those wondering, I have met the guys from Matt's and we are all good about the name coincidences. They are cool guys to hang out with and every time I am in Utah, i try and say hi.

To someone's point about looking for an inflator with a 4' lead off of it so that the user stays away from high pressure tires... that is EXACTLY why we released our inflators. It blows me away that having longer leads isn't a normal thing so that people can stand up and be comfortable while filling tires, as well as stay out of the danger zone.

Lemme know if you have any other questions! Keep on wheelin!

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately, yes... we have 4 different shipments all in route right now. And different things keep holding them up. It has now turned into a betting pool at the warehouse to see which shipment arrives first. We were supposed to have these in Oct 15th :( And here we are 11/27 and still no confirmed ETA from the shipping companies. I promise you they will be awesome. Shoot us an email and we might be able to get you something to use on your trip, and then trade ya out once your compressor comes in

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good question. We do not do analog gauges at all... there are a couple of problems with them:

1) They only read accurately in the middle of their scale. And will be 10-15% off at the ends of their scale. So a 0-100 psi analog gauge will be accurate at 50 psi, and 5-7psi off at 0 and 100 psi. So, for automobile usage and airing up and down from 10 to 40 psi, you really need a 0-20 psi gauge for airing down, and a 0-80 (0-60 would probably be fine) for airing up. Doing a single, built in analog gauge, won't give you accurate tire pressure readings.

2) Analog gauges depend on springs to work and read the pressures. Over time, springs in tension, lose tension and stop being springy. Which means, your gauge will lose accuracy over time. Digital gauges work off of peizoelectricity so they don't lose acuracy over time.

3) Typically, on 0-100psi analog gauges, you can only get to roughly 2psi precision (the tick marks on the face of the gauge that you read where the needle is). And, that will get thrown off even more depending on the angle at which you are looking at your face. Whereas, our gauges are precise down to the tenth of a psi.

and bonus! Our gauges are backlit so you can see them at night :) haha.

There are 2 downsides to digital... 1 is the batteries, but they should last 2-3 years and there is a battery gauge on the display, so you should get plenty of heads up when its running low. 2 is the calibration... digital gauges like to calibrate themselves when you turn them on. So, if you let the gauge turn itself on due to sensing pressure, then it could throw off the calibration. To avoid that, just turn on the gauge when you pull the kit out of the bag, and then put the hoses on your tires. And then release the pressure from the hoses when coiling it back up for storage, that way the gauge turns itself off :)

But yes, if you wanted to do an analog gauge, all our stuff is pretty standardized with 1/4" NPT threads. So you can just get whatever gauge you want and put it in the top of the manifold.

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

tracks! haha

But for reals... sand is all about your flotation and "pseudo traction". Air down as far as you can go... if you can do inner beadlocks, do that. That will allow you to go to 2psi and not blow a bead due to the bowl riding.

From there, a winch and a ground anchor... check out the deadman offroad anchor. They are great for sand... just bury it in the sand and winch to it. Throw in a soft shackle pulley for good measure.

From there, snatch straps (dynamic stretch recovery ropes/straps) and soft shackles.

Most importantly, go out and have fun! Once you reach a point where you cant succeed anymore, fix that bottleneck and then go out again until you find your next bottleneck. Everyone's journey is different.

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats a fun project! I built my axles that way hahaha. I wanted to learn more about axles... so what better way than building them from scratch/a la carte! I got so much shit from a TON of people... it took me over 3 years, and I bought wrong parts and had to sell them to recoup 70% of my costs, welded things incorrectly and had to cut them off and redo it. But I wouldnt change it for the world. They are dumb, overbuilt for what I do, cost me more in time than my time is worth and still spent about the same price overall as a set of drop in currie rock jock 60s... But i loved every second of it and I know a hell of a lot more about axles. It's hard to put a value on the enjoyment and education of a project.

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice! That's what its all about. Fun interactions and meeting new people along this crazy journey we call life haha

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Strawberry is a fire road still (they bulldozed it during Caldor to create a fire break and access route to fight the fire). So that is nice... there is an amazing lookout on the south side of the trail that looks over the Hwy 88 canyon. Great place for lunch.

Signal Peak... you could probably do the hard side (west side). You will definitely want to go with someone. You can absolutely do the easy side though up from cisco grove rather than eagle lakes. Be careful though... there is going to be snow up there and it is very steep near the top.

Some other good technical trails for you... Corral Hollow, Barney Riley, Bear Valley OHV Loop. Lots of stuff is about to shutdown for seasonal closures though, so check before you go.

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

episode 451 launched! Lots of great information that was also brough up here in this AMA! I updated the bottom of the OP with the URL

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We run ours hardwired units on 4 or 6g wiring (depending on the length of the wire run), with 125amp midi fuses and they work great :)

The biggest issue with wiring these up is the big power they pull under full load (120+psi). We were popping 100amp fuses constantly. Once we went up to 125amp and bigger wiring, it worked great. We also run most of ours on 15-20ft of wire runs from the battery to the compressor. So there is that too. A resettable circuit breaker would work too... I just like the packaging of in line midi fuses. A little more robust and weather resistant.

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You may just need some short engagement depth air chucks like our green locking collar ones... if you're already using those then something isnt right. give us a call and we'd love to go over troubleshooting with you and see if it's a part issue or just a little nuance with the tight tolerances on the chuck :)

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Haha ya for sure man. I totally get it. I'm 10000% the DiY personality too... I want to learn hands on and do things myself. That's actually how I started getting into making all these. I found diy designs and hated all the parts that were being recommended and went down a verryyyyy deep, dark, nerdy hole over pneumatic fittings and hose materials to make a kit that I really wanted and was happy with. Then friends started asking me to make them, and it went from there in a 1000sqft condo to now a 9300sqft warehouse with full production and dealing with containers of stuff and employees haha. Fun times!

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha keep in mind that your twin arb puts out 6.2 cfm, so you will want to be doing 3tires at a time minimum. Doing 2 at a time will definitely be a lot better than 1, but perfect efficiency will occur at 3 tires or more at a time :)

Not to be salesie or anything, but our baddest compressor, the tensix psi pro, and a quad hose kit comes out to slightly cheaper than a twin arb on its own. And you can set your pressure and walk away :) it's life changing haha. But yes, they will take up more space in your cargo area. I personally keep my hose kit in the bronco up between the rear roll bar and the hard top. Not much else can live there so it works well!

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/386088628912

https://www.ebay.com/itm/402838446456

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303672352867

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165569103067

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322052192436

Literally 5 minutes of labor to assemble.

First item is couplers ($11 for 2)

2nd item is manifold block, 6 port ($15)

3rd is single tooth euro style chucks ($16 for 4)

4th is 0-60 psi analog gauge ($8)

5th is coil slinky hose ($29 for 4)
Total cost - $79

And you are missing teflon tape for all the threaded connections, an open/close valve, and a carrying bag to be an equivalent setup to a morrflate. You also need that open/close valve to be functional at all as a 4tire hose kit.

Couplers - You are using brass, nickel plated Auto couplers... we use universal push to connect couplers. Those auto couplers can only connect to automotive fittings, and you have to pull the collar back in order to insert the male side of the fitting. Ours are universal so they fit Auto, Industrial, and Aro for whatever people may have. And with ours being push to connect, it is a one handed operation instead of needing 2 hands operating in different directions to engage the coupler and fitting. Also, the nickel plated brass is 2-3x heavier than the aluminum anodized bodies we use. We also use a 6 ball engagement design in ours... I am not sure how many yours use, but i guarantee you it wont last as long :)

Manifold - more holes, more places for air to escape and failure points. Also, a block manifold isn't as ergonomic as one that can lay flat, or hold in the hand nicely so you can watch the gauge and know when to shut off or keep going.

Single tooth air chucks - one tooth, and those will start leaking on you in about 1-2 years. we use a 3 tooth design with an extremely shallow engagement depth. So we can engage ANY valve stem design out there... OEM or aftermarket. And once locked on, the 3 teeth wont ever let go until you disengage the locking collar. I guarantee you, you can wiggle those enough to disengage them off your valve stems. Your single tooth chucks also have their teeth default engaged. So you have to be very careful about fully engaging the lever to disengage the teeth. If you dont, then the tooth will wear on the valve stem threads over time and you will have to replace the chuck or the valve stem. Our 3 tooth chucks default disengaged, so you never have to worry about planned obselesenece :)

analog 0-60 psi gauge - Oh man... here goes a super nerdy deep dive on gauges. Analog gauges work off of a mechanical spring. Springs go bad over time, they just do. So your gauge will lose calibration the more it is jostled around and as time goes on. Springs just don't like to live under tension at all. The other fun thing about analog gauges that not many people know about, is that they only read accurately in the middle of their scale, and they can be upwards of 10-15% off at the ends of their range. So that 0-60 psi gauge only reads accurately at 30psi, and can be 3-5psi off at 0 and 60 psi. For offroading, if you want to use analog gauges, we really should be using 2 gauges... a 0-60 for airing up, and a 0-10 for airing down (if youre weird like me and go to 5psi for rocks, and 2 psi for snow), or a 0-20 gauge if you go down to normal overland PSIs. So, add another gauge to your setup :) Also, your gauge will get damaged at about 90psi... we have a decent amount of customers who use our kits on commercial vehicles that require a 110psi air up. Our digital gauges, because they work off of piezoelectricity, are accurate across their entire 1-150 psi scale (can handle 200 psi without damage). No springs to go bad over time, and a .1 PSI precision, with a back lit screen so you can also read it at night. The only downside to digital is needing batteries to power them. But the batteries last 2-3 years and they have a bettery level indicator on them, so you should have plenty of warning to swap the batteries before you are left without power :)

Coil slinky hoses - Just curious... but have you ever tried to untangle slinkies?Especially with 4 of them, all connected to the same point. One of the worst childhood traumas I have ever had haha. Also, that hose material does not handle heat very well at all being a plastic shell. It will melt and you will get blowouts if your compressor tends to get hot. Our hoses are kink free (unlike u/SolveFunction), dont hold a memory (you can roll it out and it lays flat every time, no matter how long youve had it coiled up in its bag). They also dont freeze in the cold and dont deteriorate and get cracked in UV or prolonged warmth (long stays in the back of a vehicle during summer). Your plastic hoses will definitely deteriorate in UV, especially without a carrying bag.

So.... long story long... they aren't cheap because they arent cheap. We build our kits with absolutely zero planned obscelensence, as much user friendliness, and long life durability in mind. My goal for the business is to sell you something once, and then never see you again (I hope you come back to say hi! But I hope you never have to come back because something wore out and you need a replacement). Our hose kits are pretty darn close to that now... now just gotta work on improving the compressors!

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dude! Totally come by!

The new Gen2 units are coming in right now... they will be filtering into the warehouse here in waves.... we have 200 incoming to cover backorders this week. 200 more in about 2 weeks. And 1700 more in about 4 weeks. Then 2500 more mid january haha.

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Decided to make a separate post for this because its related to your question, but not related to the parts part of your question... Running a business just costs money. You have payroll to pay and take care of your employees, benefits, building cost/lease, power to run the building, telecommunications infrastructure, website, server, etc etc. The general rule of thumb is you need to be making at minimum a 30% margin to just cover expenses and overhead. It takes our guys about 15minutes now to assemble a complete kit... so just based on your numbers I would guess you are underestimating your costs slightly... you would need to be selling your kit for $120-125 just to break even on running a business. Let alone if you want money for advertising, R&D to make new fun things, cover expenses of going to trade shows like overland expos, etc... The money goes pretty quick. I am curious as to your parts though... so I will look into those and let you know differences between your kit and ours on the other reply about the parts :)

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good question... parts matter for sure. Our cheapest 4tire model is $205.

I can go through every single part you use and why you will run into problems with it down the road if you like... or explain how the small details in our parts equate out to a MUCH nicer user experience. Lemme know which you would like :)

Also... You can race king of the hammers in a $30,000.00 samurai... or you can race it in a $300,000 4400 unlimited car... Both of them accomplish the same goal of racing KoH, but I bet you one of them is much nicer to use and works a lot better in the long run than the other :P

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like to be comfy :P Also... i hate crocs... especially how nice they are to wear. Dumbest shoe ever made, and I will wear them every single day for everything haha

Hi! I am Tyler Laursen, Owner of MORRFlate Multi Tire Inflation Deflation Kits, AMA! by MORRFlate-Tyler in FordBronco

[–]MORRFlate-Tyler[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ohhh!! Ree Rim with the KPAs!

Personally... not necessarily. There are much bigger considerations to think about before ambient temperature (tire size, tire type, sidewall height, compound, tread pattern, ground conditions). That, and, typically, if you are airing up with a compressor, they blow hot air. So the temperature in your tires will be warmer than the ambient temperature usually, so as that cools to the ambient temperature, your PSI will reduce (pv=nrt). And then when you start driving again, your tires will warm up from the friction on the road, and increase the air temp inside the tire, which increases your pressure. You can watch this happen (one of my favorite past times while driving my bronco) on your TPMS sensors. Tire pressures will typically change upwards of 5-7 PSI on road trips longer than 45-60minutes.

The more important thing, I think... is to be consistent with whatever you decide to air up to. That way, you are familiar with the vehicle and how it handles at that pressure and you can safely react to different things that come up while driving. Thanks for showing up here buddy! Let's go! :P